Dan Vadas

Hi all,
 
I've had several requests to show how I built some special clamps that come in particularly useful if you are building a Fully Framed hull. They could also come in handy for other more "conventional" builds.
 
 

 
 
There are three types of Clamp :
 
1. The first goes between Frames to hold internal or external planks.
2. "Spreader" clamps that hold internal planking.
3. Parallel clamps that don't pull two pieces out of line like normal spring clamps have a tendency to do.
 
Full Credit for these clamps goes to EdT (Ed Tosti) - I'm only showing my method of copying his ideas. Ed's are probably of superior quality to mine - I've used a more simplified approach that can be done fairly easily by most builders using common Right-Hand threaded screws.
 
"Between the Frames" Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These are made from 3/4" x 5/32" (19mm x 4mm) brass machine screws or threaded bar and matching Wing Nuts - I found them at Bunnings, but they should be available at any reasonably good Hardware Store. The other brass part is some thin brass strip - I used 0.5mm. Note that you can use any sizes of screws and strip - I just used whatever I had "on hand" or could buy easily. I wouldn't go much thinner than the 0.5mm strip though - it's plenty strong enough and will fit right down into very narrow gaps between frames.
 
I cut the heads off the screws, cut a 4mm deep slot into the cut-off end and Silver Soldered the two pieces together. Then I drilled a 2.5mm hole to accept the 2mm Pin. A bit of "oversize" makes it a lot easier to push the pin through the hole.
 
The wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood - I used Australian Cherry Ballart because I had quite a bit of it in stock, but any other close-grained hardwood would do the job. A 2mm hole was drilled for the pin - this needs to be a good but "easy" slide-in fit.
 
The only item of note not shown in the pics below is some extra bracing I glued to one face of the larger block - this prevents the wood from splitting when pressure is applied. It strengthens the saw cut (these pics were taken before I had my first "Block Failure"). Note the direction of the grain in the large block.
 
 

 

 
 
 
Spreader Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These Clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp planking etc and can't use one of the "Between the Frames" clamps, although they can be used in combination with one of them as shown in the pic above. They work very well anywhere inside a hull. I made these in 4 or 5 different lengths depending on the position in the hull they were to be placed. All parts were interchangeable, so a lot of length combinations could be used - the only difference is in the lengths of the brass tubing, the "heads" and "tails" of the clamps are all identical.
 
I used 4mm x 25mm RH-threaded Stainless Steel Machine Screws, Washers and Nuts (again because I had a lot of them in stock - any other combination around that size would be OK). The "swivels" are made from 1/4" (6.5mm) brass round bar that have been drilled and tapped to accept the screws. 5mm brass tubing of various lengths is the only other thing needed.
 
Again, the wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood. The "head" is drilled to accept the swivel, the "tail" is epoxied to the screw to prevent it from falling out when the clamp is tightened. I sanded the end of the "head" to allow it to pivot when necessary.
 
 

 

 
 
Parallel Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp two pieces together without distorting their faces from each other. They also avoid the twisting effect that you can get with G-clamps, but are usually used in similar situations to them.
 
They are made from two pieces of hardwood, 8mm x 11mm x 65mm. The same size Swivels as the "Spreader Clamps" are used, with the same size screws as the "Between the Frames" clamps. Again, use any sizes close to the mark that you can get - it's not all that vital.
 
Here's an Exploded View of the Clamp :
 
 

 
 
And a description of how it goes together is below. Two Swivels are threaded to accept the screws, one is a "clearance" hole drilled right through, and the fourth is a clearance hole drilled part-way into the swivel to act as a "stopper". This one is glued into the timber with Silicone or Epoxy.
 
 

 
 
I made about 18 "Between the Frames" clamps, 10 "Spreader" clamps and 6 "Parallel" clamps - that seems to be adequate.
 
  Danny

Hi all,
 
I've had several requests to show how I built some special clamps that come in particularly useful if you are building a Fully Framed hull. They could also come in handy for other more "conventional" builds.
 
 

 
 
There are three types of Clamp :
 
1. The first goes between Frames to hold internal or external planks.
2. "Spreader" clamps that hold internal planking.
3. Parallel clamps that don't pull two pieces out of line like normal spring clamps have a tendency to do.
 
Full Credit for these clamps goes to EdT (Ed Tosti) - I'm only showing my method of copying his ideas. Ed's are probably of superior quality to mine - I've used a more simplified approach that can be done fairly easily by most builders using common Right-Hand threaded screws.
 
"Between the Frames" Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These are made from 3/4" x 5/32" (19mm x 4mm) brass machine screws or threaded bar and matching Wing Nuts - I found them at Bunnings, but they should be available at any reasonably good Hardware Store. The other brass part is some thin brass strip - I used 0.5mm. Note that you can use any sizes of screws and strip - I just used whatever I had "on hand" or could buy easily. I wouldn't go much thinner than the 0.5mm strip though - it's plenty strong enough and will fit right down into very narrow gaps between frames.
 
I cut the heads off the screws, cut a 4mm deep slot into the cut-off end and Silver Soldered the two pieces together. Then I drilled a 2.5mm hole to accept the 2mm Pin. A bit of "oversize" makes it a lot easier to push the pin through the hole.
 
The wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood - I used Australian Cherry Ballart because I had quite a bit of it in stock, but any other close-grained hardwood would do the job. A 2mm hole was drilled for the pin - this needs to be a good but "easy" slide-in fit.
 
The only item of note not shown in the pics below is some extra bracing I glued to one face of the larger block - this prevents the wood from splitting when pressure is applied. It strengthens the saw cut (these pics were taken before I had my first "Block Failure"). Note the direction of the grain in the large block.
 
 

 

 
 
 
Spreader Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These Clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp planking etc and can't use one of the "Between the Frames" clamps, although they can be used in combination with one of them as shown in the pic above. They work very well anywhere inside a hull. I made these in 4 or 5 different lengths depending on the position in the hull they were to be placed. All parts were interchangeable, so a lot of length combinations could be used - the only difference is in the lengths of the brass tubing, the "heads" and "tails" of the clamps are all identical.
 
I used 4mm x 25mm RH-threaded Stainless Steel Machine Screws, Washers and Nuts (again because I had a lot of them in stock - any other combination around that size would be OK). The "swivels" are made from 1/4" (6.5mm) brass round bar that have been drilled and tapped to accept the screws. 5mm brass tubing of various lengths is the only other thing needed.
 
Again, the wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood. The "head" is drilled to accept the swivel, the "tail" is epoxied to the screw to prevent it from falling out when the clamp is tightened. I sanded the end of the "head" to allow it to pivot when necessary.
 
 

 

 
 
Parallel Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp two pieces together without distorting their faces from each other. They also avoid the twisting effect that you can get with G-clamps, but are usually used in similar situations to them.
 
They are made from two pieces of hardwood, 8mm x 11mm x 65mm. The same size Swivels as the "Spreader Clamps" are used, with the same size screws as the "Between the Frames" clamps. Again, use any sizes close to the mark that you can get - it's not all that vital.
 
Here's an Exploded View of the Clamp :
 
 

 
 
And a description of how it goes together is below. Two Swivels are threaded to accept the screws, one is a "clearance" hole drilled right through, and the fourth is a clearance hole drilled part-way into the swivel to act as a "stopper". This one is glued into the timber with Silicone or Epoxy.
 
 

 
 
I made about 18 "Between the Frames" clamps, 10 "Spreader" clamps and 6 "Parallel" clamps - that seems to be adequate.
 
  Danny

Hi all,
 
I've had several requests to show how I built some special clamps that come in particularly useful if you are building a Fully Framed hull. They could also come in handy for other more "conventional" builds.
 
 

 
 
There are three types of Clamp :
 
1. The first goes between Frames to hold internal or external planks.
2. "Spreader" clamps that hold internal planking.
3. Parallel clamps that don't pull two pieces out of line like normal spring clamps have a tendency to do.
 
Full Credit for these clamps goes to EdT (Ed Tosti) - I'm only showing my method of copying his ideas. Ed's are probably of superior quality to mine - I've used a more simplified approach that can be done fairly easily by most builders using common Right-Hand threaded screws.
 
"Between the Frames" Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These are made from 3/4" x 5/32" (19mm x 4mm) brass machine screws or threaded bar and matching Wing Nuts - I found them at Bunnings, but they should be available at any reasonably good Hardware Store. The other brass part is some thin brass strip - I used 0.5mm. Note that you can use any sizes of screws and strip - I just used whatever I had "on hand" or could buy easily. I wouldn't go much thinner than the 0.5mm strip though - it's plenty strong enough and will fit right down into very narrow gaps between frames.
 
I cut the heads off the screws, cut a 4mm deep slot into the cut-off end and Silver Soldered the two pieces together. Then I drilled a 2.5mm hole to accept the 2mm Pin. A bit of "oversize" makes it a lot easier to push the pin through the hole.
 
The wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood - I used Australian Cherry Ballart because I had quite a bit of it in stock, but any other close-grained hardwood would do the job. A 2mm hole was drilled for the pin - this needs to be a good but "easy" slide-in fit.
 
The only item of note not shown in the pics below is some extra bracing I glued to one face of the larger block - this prevents the wood from splitting when pressure is applied. It strengthens the saw cut (these pics were taken before I had my first "Block Failure"). Note the direction of the grain in the large block.
 
 

 

 
 
 
Spreader Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These Clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp planking etc and can't use one of the "Between the Frames" clamps, although they can be used in combination with one of them as shown in the pic above. They work very well anywhere inside a hull. I made these in 4 or 5 different lengths depending on the position in the hull they were to be placed. All parts were interchangeable, so a lot of length combinations could be used - the only difference is in the lengths of the brass tubing, the "heads" and "tails" of the clamps are all identical.
 
I used 4mm x 25mm RH-threaded Stainless Steel Machine Screws, Washers and Nuts (again because I had a lot of them in stock - any other combination around that size would be OK). The "swivels" are made from 1/4" (6.5mm) brass round bar that have been drilled and tapped to accept the screws. 5mm brass tubing of various lengths is the only other thing needed.
 
Again, the wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood. The "head" is drilled to accept the swivel, the "tail" is epoxied to the screw to prevent it from falling out when the clamp is tightened. I sanded the end of the "head" to allow it to pivot when necessary.
 
 

 

 
 
Parallel Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp two pieces together without distorting their faces from each other. They also avoid the twisting effect that you can get with G-clamps, but are usually used in similar situations to them.
 
They are made from two pieces of hardwood, 8mm x 11mm x 65mm. The same size Swivels as the "Spreader Clamps" are used, with the same size screws as the "Between the Frames" clamps. Again, use any sizes close to the mark that you can get - it's not all that vital.
 
Here's an Exploded View of the Clamp :
 
 

 
 
And a description of how it goes together is below. Two Swivels are threaded to accept the screws, one is a "clearance" hole drilled right through, and the fourth is a clearance hole drilled part-way into the swivel to act as a "stopper". This one is glued into the timber with Silicone or Epoxy.
 
 

 
 
I made about 18 "Between the Frames" clamps, 10 "Spreader" clamps and 6 "Parallel" clamps - that seems to be adequate.
 
  Danny

Hi all,
 
I've had several requests to show how I built some special clamps that come in particularly useful if you are building a Fully Framed hull. They could also come in handy for other more "conventional" builds.
 
 

 
 
There are three types of Clamp :
 
1. The first goes between Frames to hold internal or external planks.
2. "Spreader" clamps that hold internal planking.
3. Parallel clamps that don't pull two pieces out of line like normal spring clamps have a tendency to do.
 
Full Credit for these clamps goes to EdT (Ed Tosti) - I'm only showing my method of copying his ideas. Ed's are probably of superior quality to mine - I've used a more simplified approach that can be done fairly easily by most builders using common Right-Hand threaded screws.
 
"Between the Frames" Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These are made from 3/4" x 5/32" (19mm x 4mm) brass machine screws or threaded bar and matching Wing Nuts - I found them at Bunnings, but they should be available at any reasonably good Hardware Store. The other brass part is some thin brass strip - I used 0.5mm. Note that you can use any sizes of screws and strip - I just used whatever I had "on hand" or could buy easily. I wouldn't go much thinner than the 0.5mm strip though - it's plenty strong enough and will fit right down into very narrow gaps between frames.
 
I cut the heads off the screws, cut a 4mm deep slot into the cut-off end and Silver Soldered the two pieces together. Then I drilled a 2.5mm hole to accept the 2mm Pin. A bit of "oversize" makes it a lot easier to push the pin through the hole.
 
The wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood - I used Australian Cherry Ballart because I had quite a bit of it in stock, but any other close-grained hardwood would do the job. A 2mm hole was drilled for the pin - this needs to be a good but "easy" slide-in fit.
 
The only item of note not shown in the pics below is some extra bracing I glued to one face of the larger block - this prevents the wood from splitting when pressure is applied. It strengthens the saw cut (these pics were taken before I had my first "Block Failure"). Note the direction of the grain in the large block.
 
 

 

 
 
 
Spreader Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These Clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp planking etc and can't use one of the "Between the Frames" clamps, although they can be used in combination with one of them as shown in the pic above. They work very well anywhere inside a hull. I made these in 4 or 5 different lengths depending on the position in the hull they were to be placed. All parts were interchangeable, so a lot of length combinations could be used - the only difference is in the lengths of the brass tubing, the "heads" and "tails" of the clamps are all identical.
 
I used 4mm x 25mm RH-threaded Stainless Steel Machine Screws, Washers and Nuts (again because I had a lot of them in stock - any other combination around that size would be OK). The "swivels" are made from 1/4" (6.5mm) brass round bar that have been drilled and tapped to accept the screws. 5mm brass tubing of various lengths is the only other thing needed.
 
Again, the wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood. The "head" is drilled to accept the swivel, the "tail" is epoxied to the screw to prevent it from falling out when the clamp is tightened. I sanded the end of the "head" to allow it to pivot when necessary.
 
 

 

 
 
Parallel Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp two pieces together without distorting their faces from each other. They also avoid the twisting effect that you can get with G-clamps, but are usually used in similar situations to them.
 
They are made from two pieces of hardwood, 8mm x 11mm x 65mm. The same size Swivels as the "Spreader Clamps" are used, with the same size screws as the "Between the Frames" clamps. Again, use any sizes close to the mark that you can get - it's not all that vital.
 
Here's an Exploded View of the Clamp :
 
 

 
 
And a description of how it goes together is below. Two Swivels are threaded to accept the screws, one is a "clearance" hole drilled right through, and the fourth is a clearance hole drilled part-way into the swivel to act as a "stopper". This one is glued into the timber with Silicone or Epoxy.
 
 

 
 
I made about 18 "Between the Frames" clamps, 10 "Spreader" clamps and 6 "Parallel" clamps - that seems to be adequate.
 
  Danny

August 5, 2012.  I have installed the inner strakes.  The inner edge has a rebate for the limber boards and the outer edge is cambered to meet the thinner outer limber strake.  I make the rebate by lowering the blade on the Preac saw to 1.5 scale inches.  The cut-outs are for the well pumps.  The treenails did not stand out well in the photo so I wetted the wood to bive an indication of how they will look after a finish is eventually applied.  The apparent gap between the aft strake and the hull is shadowing.   You can see the difference in appearance between the keelson bolts and the scarf joint treenails as well.
 
Inner Limber Strake




 
August 5, 2012.  I will be using Watco’s Danish Wood Oil for my finish.  It is very forgiving and gives a matte finish if one coat is used and a low luster finish if multiple coats are applied.  I have not seen any change in color over the years .
 
Author: EdT.  Watco Oil is linseed and soya.  It will make the wood yellowish and will darken over time.  If you want no yellow use an acrylic.
 
Author: dvm27.  The Swan cross section was finished with Watco’s.  It does impart a tone to the wood, expecially holly which yellow a bit.  The finish is indeed flat after rubbing out.  The Echo cross section was finished with General Finishes water based sanding sealer (slightly thinned).  The box has not changed color at all, nor has my Pegasus after a couple of years.  I would use the Watco’s if you wish a richer color to the wood or the General Finishes sealer if you want to maintain the rough hewn appearance of a new ship on the stocks.  Greg.  The pictures Greg provided in the original build log were not preserved in the MSW crash. 
 
August 6, 2012.  The outer limber strakes have been added.  Thses taper down from a thickness of 3” to 2” at the fore and aft extremes. As this strake is only 10” wide, the treenails are in a single/double pattern.  The inner strake was 12” wide
and so had a double treenail pattern.

Outer Limber Strake





 
August 13, 2012.  The next stiffeners to tackle are the thick stuff at the floor heads.  There is an internal planking expansion drawing in TFFM. I enlarged it to full size and know it will be a tremendous asset in determining approx plank shapes.  The distances from the outer limber plank to the lower floor head  plank are copied from the expansion drawing.  I transferred the measurement to the hull and ran my masking tape “ribband” to fair the line.  This run of planking is 12” wide and comprised of four planks which taper fore and aft.  The foremost plank is cut out  to accept the fore end of the middle floor head plank.  All of the planks were bent by microwaving them in water, bending them to shape and allowing them to dry overnight.  Before installing them, the treenail locations were varked, pierced and drilled.  Pins hold the plank in place until the glue
dries.  These are blunt 22g pins used for beading.  The holes are 24g so the pins were thinned down with a grinding wheel on the Dremel.    The lower edge of the planks are cambered since the footwaling is thinner.  I have decided to omit the footwaling on the model so as not to completely cover up the internal frames.
 
The middle plank is thicker (14”) and narrows sufficiently in the bow to be dropped.  I made a template of the foremost plank with adhesive backed paper and transferred to to the wood.  The shadowing in the pictures illustrates the difference in the thickness between the lower and middle runs of planking.  The white color in the holes is sawdust.  Two bamboo treenails (tan in color) have been fitted in the fore end of the middle plank.

Floor Thickstuff






August 19, 2012.  I have finally finished the thick stuff at the floor heads.  The planks are drilled for treenails but they have not been inserted yet.  The middle plank is 1” thicker than the outer planks.

Floor Thickstuff



 

And the final set.

Lightroom
 
It was considered to be not a very good idea to have candles or lanterns inside the magazine (with good reason ) so a separate Light Room was fitted for illumination. This held a lantern accessible from outside the magazine itself, and was completely sealed off from it.
 
This was a very enjoyable part of the ship to build despite it's complexity (or perhaps BECAUSE of it  ).
 
 

 

 
 
The glazing in the windows is clear Sellotape which has a coating of PVA on both sides to seal it. It simulates the rather frosted appearance of glass of the time quite well :
 
 

 

 

Aft Platform Carlings and Ledges
 
The Ledge mortices in the Carlings were marked and cut into a length of (scale) 4" x 3" stock. This method worked OK for the Platforms, but came back to bite me when I tried the same technique on the Lower Deck later on. The Carlings were also morticed into the Beams :
 
 

 

 

 
 
The Ledge mortices in the Lodging Knees were cut in with a narrowed Xacto chisel blade and the 3" x 2" Ledges were glued in :
 
 

 
 

 
 

Internal Treenailing
 
Bamboo Treenails are inserted to each frame. The Butts of the internal planking fall on different frames than the external planks for added strength.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 

Lower Deck Clamps
 
Deck Clamps bolt to the hull through each frame and support the Deck Beams. There are two of them each side, an upper and a lower. They are "worked" in "Top and Butt" fashion (also sometimes known as "Anchor Stock planking"). They are quite substantial boards - 4" thick at the top and tapering to 3" thick at the bottom of the lower strake. The top edges of the strakes are parallel to the waterline athwartships.
 
Correct placement of these is crucial. I used my internal height gauge to mark their positions from the plans.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
The foremost end of the lower strake is cut for a Drop Plank :
 
 

 

 

Chain Pump Sprocket
 
Whilst I was "in the groove" with my hew-found Silver Soldering skills I thought I would make a Chain Pump Sprocket. I only need one of these as the other will be hidden from view under the Cistern.
 
This was made in similar fashion to the Pump Inlets using the PE side parts and 0.8mm brass wire for the bolts :
 
 

 

 

 

 

I checked your Posts earlier and thought it may have been that one  .
 
Consider it done.
 
  Danny

Lower Well and Shot Locker
 
The Well contains the lower ends of the Pump Tubes and prevents any cargo from damaging or blocking them.
 
Construction started by making card templates of the lower boards. Corner braces were cut to oversize lengths and the planks were glued to them. The edges of these were sanded flush after the glue dried :
 
 

 

 
 
Much dry-fitting was needed to get the well to sit flush with the various timbers under it :
 
 

 

 
 
The Shot Locker is a part of the forward end of the well :
 
 

 

 

 
 
Lids were made and glued on. I'm adding the hinges etc later :
 
 

 

 

Research and Materials
 
This model is built using the four volume set of "The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780" (hereby referred to as TFFM) written by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert (available from Seawatch Books) :
 

 
Further information was gleaned from copies of the original plans from the Royal Maritime Museum in Greenwich, London. Formerly known as The National Maritime Museum, I refer to it as the "NMM" in this Build Log.
 
  
 
Admiralty Models supplied a set of Plans of the Main Deck, Side Elevation and Deck Beam Profiles printed on Mylar. Also a CD of all the profiles of the Frames. I printed these out on A4 size sticky-backed Label Paper.
 
NOTE that the Mylar plans from Admiralty Models are based on HMS Kingfisher, an early "Swan" Class ship. There are several differences in ships that followed later, hence the need for the NMM original plans for the particular ship you are building.
 

 
Timber for the model was purchased from HobbyMill. This was pre-thicknessed to the various sizes need for each set of parts :
 

 
The timber used :   Steamed Swiss Pear (two shades) for the majority of the Hull Framing and Deck Framing
Castello Boxwood for Planking
Ebony for the Wales and Detail parts
Holly for very light colored parts and the Cutter Planking
 
The above came from HobbyMill, I received the ones below from other modellers.
 
Australian Cherry Ballart for the Bitts and other Deck Fittings
English Box for Small Detail Fittings and Carvings
 
Also from HobbyMill came a complete Masting Package :
 

 
Finally, I bought a Cutter Timbering Set and the Photoetch Set from Admiralty Models :
 

Thanks Scott . I hope the Rebuilt Log won't be a disappointment, but I've had to leave out a lot of the details I put into the old one - I'm trying to do the job in THIS lifetime .
 
I've finished the first 9 posts (ONLY 110 to go   ) and I'll be doing as many as I can each day until I get back to where I was before the Crash. Click on the "HMS Vulture" Link in my Signature to get to my Index.
 
Cheers, Danny

How To Add Pictures in your Posts and PMs
 
1. Open the Edit Box by clicking the "Edit" at the bottom of the Post :
 

 
2. Click on the "Full Editor" button :
 

 
3. Click on the "Choose Files" button :
 

 
This will open a Dialog Box to your Computer Files. Select the picture file you want to add and click "Save" (or "Open") to upload the picture.
 
4. Place the Cursor where you want the picture added. You can use the Icons (circled) to position it on the line :
 

 
5. Click on the "Add to Post" text under the Thumbnail of the picture. This adds the Attachment Code into the message at the position you selected :
 

 
6. You can add more Text after the picture if you want, or add more pictures (limit of 8 per Post).
 

 
 
7. Click on the "Submit" button. You can use the "Preview" button to make sure your layout is OK before clicking Submit. If you need to Edit your Post again simply restart the process by clicking on "Edit" again. You MUST use the "Full Editor" to post extra Pictures.
 

 
A view of the completed Post with Text and Picture Added :
 

.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS TUTORIAL IS FROM THE PREVIOUS VERSION OF MSW AND NO LONGER WORKS AS DESCRIBED. AN UPDATED VERSION WILL BE POSTED SHORTLY.

How To Add Pictures in your Posts and PMs
 
1. Open the Edit Box by clicking the "Edit" at the bottom of the Post :
 

 
2. Click on the "Full Editor" button :
 

 
3. Click on the "Choose Files" button :
 

 
This will open a Dialog Box to your Computer Files. Select the picture file you want to add and click "Save" (or "Open") to upload the picture.
 
4. Place the Cursor where you want the picture added. You can use the Icons (circled) to position it on the line :
 

 
5. Click on the "Add to Post" text under the Thumbnail of the picture. This adds the Attachment Code into the message at the position you selected :
 

 
6. You can add more Text after the picture if you want, or add more pictures (limit of 8 per Post).
 

 
 
7. Click on the "Submit" button. You can use the "Preview" button to make sure your layout is OK before clicking Submit. If you need to Edit your Post again simply restart the process by clicking on "Edit" again. You MUST use the "Full Editor" to post extra Pictures.
 

 
A view of the completed Post with Text and Picture Added :
 

.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS TUTORIAL IS FROM THE PREVIOUS VERSION OF MSW AND NO LONGER WORKS AS DESCRIBED. AN UPDATED VERSION WILL BE POSTED SHORTLY.

How To Add Pictures in your Posts and PMs
 
1. Open the Edit Box by clicking the "Edit" at the bottom of the Post :
 

 
2. Click on the "Full Editor" button :
 

 
3. Click on the "Choose Files" button :
 

 
This will open a Dialog Box to your Computer Files. Select the picture file you want to add and click "Save" (or "Open") to upload the picture.
 
4. Place the Cursor where you want the picture added. You can use the Icons (circled) to position it on the line :
 

 
5. Click on the "Add to Post" text under the Thumbnail of the picture. This adds the Attachment Code into the message at the position you selected :
 

 
6. You can add more Text after the picture if you want, or add more pictures (limit of 8 per Post).
 

 
 
7. Click on the "Submit" button. You can use the "Preview" button to make sure your layout is OK before clicking Submit. If you need to Edit your Post again simply restart the process by clicking on "Edit" again. You MUST use the "Full Editor" to post extra Pictures.
 

 
A view of the completed Post with Text and Picture Added :
 

.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS TUTORIAL IS FROM THE PREVIOUS VERSION OF MSW AND NO LONGER WORKS AS DESCRIBED. AN UPDATED VERSION WILL BE POSTED SHORTLY.

How To Add Pictures in your Posts and PMs
 
1. Open the Edit Box by clicking the "Edit" at the bottom of the Post :
 

 
2. Click on the "Full Editor" button :
 

 
3. Click on the "Choose Files" button :
 

 
This will open a Dialog Box to your Computer Files. Select the picture file you want to add and click "Save" (or "Open") to upload the picture.
 
4. Place the Cursor where you want the picture added. You can use the Icons (circled) to position it on the line :
 

 
5. Click on the "Add to Post" text under the Thumbnail of the picture. This adds the Attachment Code into the message at the position you selected :
 

 
6. You can add more Text after the picture if you want, or add more pictures (limit of 8 per Post).
 

 
 
7. Click on the "Submit" button. You can use the "Preview" button to make sure your layout is OK before clicking Submit. If you need to Edit your Post again simply restart the process by clicking on "Edit" again. You MUST use the "Full Editor" to post extra Pictures.
 

 
A view of the completed Post with Text and Picture Added :
 

.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS TUTORIAL IS FROM THE PREVIOUS VERSION OF MSW AND NO LONGER WORKS AS DESCRIBED. AN UPDATED VERSION WILL BE POSTED SHORTLY.

Welcome back. We have a lot of work to do. Fortunately I have all the Naiad posts saved as Word files and all the associated images, so I will be putting up the entire 176 parts as soon as I can. The model is approaching completion, so I do not expect more perhaps 10-12 new posts, but there has been enough interest in the old posts to make the effort worthwhile. We will all need to be showing a lot of patience for awhile.
 
I will also opening a topic in the book section for "The Naiad Frigate - Volume I. There are some content updates I want to share there.
 
I will also be reposting the 1:96 Victory Build log, but that will be taking a back seat to Naiad for awahile.
 
Cheers,
 
Ed