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ECK

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Everything posted by ECK

  1. Thanks. Yes , if you tour the USS constitution in Boston harbour the inner bulwarks are green.
  2. 442 knots later, the ratlines are done. After finishing one side, as I do the other I insert a plank every 5 rows to make sure things are staying even. Also installed the halliards onto the yards. you can also see the upper rings used instead of deadeyes inserted into their holes.
  3. Shrouds done. I tend to do the first on each side measuring the distance from bottom of the lower deadeye to top of the upper. Here 2 cm. Then I eyeball the rest based on the first one.
  4. At the beach for a few days. Completed yards, blocks, steeped the masts and attached the yards. Although the plans do not explicitly call for footropes, the parts are on the etched sheets.
  5. Completed fore and main masts. They are both canted sternward quite a bit . The tops require angling to keep them level . Fortunately when the hounds are placed correctly they give you the angle to trim.
  6. Yes . Blue Ensign used a batten which was apparently typical. I did the rope as easier to wrap and with real copper it is now always easy to get a perfect edge. I believe it was a 1 mm black rigging line.
  7. Thanks all. To me the second planking adds strength and shape to the hull, allows for gluing without nail holes and smooth the shape . Also with Chris' models, the outer bulwark transitions smoothly into the second planking. You do not need to plank the outer bulwark. In other models the second planking, as it usually includes the outer bulwark strengthens it. ECK
  8. Guns installed and ship's boat complete and mounted. Weekend will be starting the mast and bowsprit
  9. Hull now complete save for the guns and anchors. I'll be spending the next week making those.
  10. Spent the day placing in numerous eyebolts then the shot garlands, cleats and belaying pins/racks
  11. Several days of work and the coppering is done. t Took a morning to copper the rudder and mount it. The pintles are photo etched and much sturdier than the laser printed ones I used in Harpy. Also finished the stern.
  12. Coppering has begun. Using plates rather than the provided copper tape.
  13. Spent the day finishing the painting and adding the stern cabin doors. I used door latches I had left from Harpy. The roofs are drying after soaking them to get the curve set overnight. The copper paint looks pretty good to me but I likely be starting coppering proper later this week.
  14. Started painting today. Lots of tape being used. I also drew the water line and painted the area below copper so when I do copper, any gaps will not be glaring. Have not added the cabin doors and siding yet although I did pre-fit them , sanding/filing so they fit.
  15. Second planking done. Here she is pre-sanding Now post sanding/filling/sanding again
  16. So far easier as the curve of the prow is minimal compared to the square rigged ships and so less twisting of the planks
  17. TO start the second planking I first soaked then tapered then laterally bent the planks Now 5 rows into it, I do sand some after each row. I have taped up the veneers and gunports to prevent damage
  18. No first planking done, here pre-sanding/filling. Had 2 stealers in the stern Now post sanding, filling and sanding Next gluing on the veneers Now ready for second planking
  19. Finished gluing outer and inner bulwarks. Then sanded/filled/sanded the tops of the bulwarks and the gunports. Those arches are a real pain, quite a few breaks.
  20. Next step is attaching the bulwark. The outer and inner sides will be covered with engraved pieces so this is the backbone so to speak. It is important to glue keeping the edge of the deck along the lower of the two interior engraved lines. Can never have to many clamps. You will also notice I temporarily pinned the lower edges to ensure a tight fit so the first plank will abut without gaps. If you look closely at the instruction manual you can see James also used pinholes. The lower stern edge needs to be turnedinward. I scored it as the manual suggests. Later with filler and sanding it will be nice and rounded. Lastly, it is important to make sure the end of the bulwark sits at the same height above the deckhouse at the stern.
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