ECK
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Everything posted by ECK
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Looks great! I think you can easily do more complex ships and rigging. Sometimes easier as you have more space to work with.
- 143 replies
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- Adder
- Vanguard Models
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Since finishing HM Adder decided to do HM Granada. Interested in mortar ships since reading about them in the Hornblower novel The Commodore. where he used them in the Baltic. Had to move my Vanguard collection( to small for fleet but maybe squadron or flotilla?). First step involves gluing the false keel to the frame I was spoiled with the Vanguard kits as the instructions were excellent. Here, lots of vagueness at times and some areas not explained making me look at the box photos for help Next inserting the ribs and lower deck Next upper decks. Lots of clamps involved
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Very well done! I usually have a clamp on the other line as I am belaying one side. I do not glue anything until the end when everything look aligned. Await your next project.
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- Adder
- Vanguard Models
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Watch out for those anchors, they are a bit delicate. It is the only issue I find with the laser printed ones.
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The secret is an empty nest but no grand kids yet !
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Well, another completed. Fun project with challenge being the very rounded prow. Note the lowered center boards Now for the next project, unfortunately I think I have done all of Vanguard's projects that are not similar to each other. I like doing larger vessels. So until Chris can get the 1:64 Victory somehow, I will do one of his older projects from Amati. I am interested in doing a mortar ship ever since I read about their use in my youth in the C.S Forrester Hornblower series book The Commodore where Hornblower uses a mortar ship in the Baltic.
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For me, I would not want to trip or stub my toes on the cannon balls so I did it as on sheet 6
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Interestingly, on the forward hatch on Plan 6 the shot holders are parallel to the bow/stern but in the instruction book they are parallel to the sides.
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Nice work. Always a few niggling at the edges. I do think the bow 24 ponders need to face forward as the recoil at that angle would slam into the bowsprit base.
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Next came the backstays The the bowsprit Now some of the forestays
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Back from vacation. Boom, gaff, lifts, jeers done so yards squared off. Next will be the back stays then attaching the bow and rigging it.
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Finally finished the shrouds and ratlines. Will be off to the beach next week. Hopefully just a couple of weeks more to complete.
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Ratlines done today.
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Very nice. I also found the curve of the hull at the bow made it difficult to plank .
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Main shrouds set up. Next the clatherpins.
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I brush on the poly especially over the bare wood It helps as if you accidentally get some paint on the bare area easier to scrape off if the poly is underneath. I also got this combo airbrush and venthood set. For most of the pieces the hood works well.For the white of the hull I use a lot of tape and mat combo spray can of primer and paint. I got the airbrush on amazon
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I use vallejo flat red, what Chris recommends on his ships. I soak and shape the inner forward bulkheads and let dry overnight. I then spray paint them and what ever else I can prior to installation. I find spraying leaves more of the detailed engraving visible compared to a thicker brush coating. Once in place I then paint a light layer of matt ploy.
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Have pinned the yards to the mast and done some of the jeers and tyes. Will remove bowsprit until after shrouds done as just gets in the way.I do this part now when access is much easier than after when the shrouds are in place
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Yards all done. Pre-painting Post painting flat black Then mat poly
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I used a touch of glue so things stay stable and keeps the shape. Not a real issue later as easy to take off sand and cover with inner bulwark.
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If the hole are obscured by paint you can use a hand drill or needle to open it up and then just glue in an eyebolt.
- 143 replies
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- Adder
- Vanguard Models
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Thanks. My 15th build so learned a few tricks especially once I joined the form and saw the great wokr/tips from others. You may noticed that I splurged and bought pear blocks for a more realistic look. Since I started building with real looking blocks, I find the final product just looks better although not obvious until you get closer to the model.
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Done for the day. Masts finished and rigged.
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Far enough away. When I do real sanding I have a vacuum on pulling in the big dust or go outside. This filing does not spread far.
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Started on lower masts. First Dowel cut to length: Then taped off lower area to be carved Placed in vice and long side filed down 1 mm Next marked off upper area, rotated 90 degrees and filled upper area ( with one side flat keeps things straight in vice) Kept rotating to finish then trimmed tip for cap
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