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Jared

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  1. Nice modellIng. Congrats on your retirement!
  2. Gaff & Spanker boom mounted and rigged. Quite delicate work. It was made much easier by not having the mizzen backstays and shrouds in the way.
  3. Time for some holiday season fun. My nephew who lives in Singapore gifted me a laser cut wood "sailing ship puzzle" when he visited last year. Needing a break from rigging my FF, I had a go at it this week. I was quite amazed by the very high quality and precision of the laser cut pieces (photo 1). It was actually quite a fun build! While it bears only minor resemblance to a real tall ship, I would highly recommend it to anyone who wants to interest a child in getting into our hobby. Seasons Greetings!
  4. A day of celebration! Finally finished rigging the last of the shrouds and ratlines. Phew!!
  5. Over the last 3 days I complete construction of the spanker boom including mounting it on the ship and rigging it. As you can see from the photos below, the rigging was fairly complex, consisting of topping lifts, lift falls, spanker boom sheets and footropes. Each of these were rigged on the port and stbd. sides.
  6. It is a weak spot. It is where the tip on my Flying Fish jibboom also broke. While there are other sheave holes on the FF spars, on the advice of another modeller I now apply a coat of superglue around all drill sites before drilling. I am also using a stronger wood (maple/birch) as my spar material. I also intend to house the completed FF in a case to protect it and keep it clean.
  7. I decided to see if I could apply my newly discovered skills to repair my first plank on frame build, the Artesania Latina 1805 Virginia Pilot boat Swift. The top mast was accidently snapped of several years ago and seemed to defy glue repairs (photo 1). I determined that the problem was the running rigging at the top of the mainmast was too tight. I decided today to see if I could try to undo one end of the line and try the repairs again. I had to use a combination of hot water, acetone and laquer thinner treatments to eventually loosen and release the line attached to a deck cleat. I then repaired the upper mast with epoxy glue and retied the running rigging line after the epoxy on the mast cured. I secured the new knot with white glue. The repaired model is shown in photos 2-4). Now I am back at my Flying Fish.
  8. The one thing troubling me the most about my model has been the loose lift lines on the main lower mast (see items 293 & 208 of this build). With my frequent accidental encounters with the mast as I continued with the rigging, the problem got much worse with the upper lines of the lift sagging terribly (photo 1). Through some luck and thought I have been able to fix this. As to the luck, yesterday the cap of my superglue was so plugged up with solidified glue and would no longer fit, causing the nozzle to plug. It defied removal by physical means so I turned to the internet and discovered acetone would dissolve hardened superglue. Sure enough this did the trick and my glue is good again. So what has this to do with my sagging main lower yard lifts? The rigging lines at the end of my lower mast were glued with a superglue. Carefully applying small amounts of acetone to the rope allowed me to open the knots and then retighten the rigging (photos 2 &-4).
  9. The standing rigging on the mainmast has now been completed. A lot of slow careful and sometimes very difficult work. I am holding off securing the Mn Royal and Mn Sky backstays for now, to leave more room under and behind the main mast to make later rigging of the mizzen stays easier. Thanks for looking.
  10. It's looking really nice George. You are making a lot of progress.
  11. I was led astray by the rigging sequence and approach I read in several books including the kit's plans. I did not learn of Rob's superior approach until it was too late, but now am a convert trying to implement his methods as best as I can. Lesson learned the harder way: work smarter not harder. The standing rigging on the main mast is coming along fine. I will update the log with photos when I am further along .
  12. With the lanyards on the shrouds of the lower mizzen mast off now I have a lot easier access to the deck area under and on the aft side of the mast, which will make rigging in these areas much easier. Rigging the lanyards back on will be a later step.
  13. The mizzen topmast is only loosely fit at the moment.
  14. Thanks George. They were snug. However after slicing the lanyards on 1 side I was able to pull it out. I then used a dremel tool to slant the hole. I also had to cut the lanyards on the other side. I have reglued the mast and am going to leave it overnight before securing the ratlines with new lanyards. Surprisingly the fix has so far been rather painless.
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