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Jared

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  1. We too got walloped here in Ontario George. My snow blower is my best friend!
  2. I wish I had thought of this! It would have saved me so much agony! Thanks for posting this.
  3. Rigging under and behind the fife rails was near impossible on my build. Eyebolts that I had put in place behind the fife rail had to be removed then the lower part of the rigging attached to the freed eyebolt. I then reglued the eyebolts into place and continued with the rigging. The other caution is the supplied belay pins in the kit are way too short to be able to rig by the conventional way. I had to tie knots to the upper part of the belay pin then hide everything under the rope coils. The crappy cast metal belay pins were one of the worst emements in the kit!
  4. Nice work Alan. Happy New Year. Your carving method would make fir an interesting MSON presentation.
  5. Wishing you the best for your pet George. Best wishes for the holidays ahead and for a great 2026. Jared
  6. A beautiful model and fascinating story as well. I look forward to following the rest of your FF build.
  7. As much as I would like to blame lens distortion for this "optical illusion" I can't. As I mentioned several times in this blog, the requirement to drill sheaves in the thinnest spars made these areas extremely fragile and a few snapped during the subsequent rigging process (see #230 and #373) when I was attaching the lift grommets. Where the observed "bow" occurs, I used epoxy for the repair but had difficulty aligning the spars. The bowing actually looks worse than it actually is, because of the way the chain crosses over it. At the time if this break a lot of the rigging on the lower sections of the foremast had completed so I made the decision to leave well enough alone as alignment looked fine from the port and stbd. views. For the break discussed in #373, the broken pieces were pinned and glued together, ensuring good alignment.
  8. Here are the last of my focus stacked images on my completed Flying Fish. The images were photographed on large sheets of white paper. The most difficult problem I encountered with this technique was trying to cleanup the background of the images in Lightroom, where the sheets overlapped or crinkled. I was pleased, however, that the focus stacking produced sharp images of the ship throughout the images. It took between 12 and 30 raw images to create the various images. The images were stacked using Helicon Focus. I used a Nikon D850 camera mounted on a sturdy tripod, with 24-70mm f2.8 and 105 mm f2.8 lenses.
  9. I will try creating some more Ai images broadside, soon as I finish making a few more focus stacked images. With the Ai images, your images are only as good as what you can instruct the Ai generator to do. There is a lot of luck involved to this.
  10. Feeling the need for some creativity in image making, I fed one of the photos of my Flying Fish model into Google Gemini and asked it to create a photorealistic image of what the ship would have looked like in Boston Harbor in the 1850's. I was blown away by the results, which I share here:
  11. I have finally gotten around to photographing my completed model of the Flying Fish, using the focus stacking technique to show the entire model in sharp focus. Here are my first 4 images showing the starboard and port side view of the ship, a stern view and a 45 degree view.
  12. I agree with Alan. Drill center holes in the 2 broken pieces where they joined and insert a steel or brass rod then epoxy them together. I broke a very thin mast on my Flying Fish and this method saved the model. Yiu can see this with photos at #373 on my Flying Fish build log.
  13. You have made a lot of progress over the last 4 weeks while I was away Rob. Beautiful work! How did you make the name boards?
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