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Jared

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  1. It happens to many of us. I abandoned my Flying Fish for about 8 years before pushing myself to get back at it challenges.
  2. A lot of fine demanding work clearly went into building this. I think it looks great!
  3. Sorry for my 2 month absence. After completing the standing rigging I needed a brief mental rest and time to think about how I would complete the fragile yards with their fittings and tackle the running rigging. This week I built the mizzen topsail, topgallant, royal and skysail yards. They have not yet been permanently attached. Making and soldering together the small trusses on the topgallant and topsail yards was very challenging. Fortunately the yards are painted black, which does a great job of hiding less than stellar workmanship 😬. I have been following the earlier advice to apply super glue into all drilled holes to try to strengthen the spars at these weak points. For these 2 yards I am using straight pins to help secure them to the masts. The last images are of the unpainted and painted mizzen royal yard and the unpainted skysail yard. On all of these yards except the mizzen skysail, I intentionally left a small gap between the vertical and horizontal pairs of eyebolts at the outer ends to reduce the risk of breakage from drolling at this fragile area. Because skysail yard is just to frail, I will omit the eyebolts altogether and simply tie the running rigging to the yard ends.
  4. Sorry you had to spend so many hours interviewing and all for nought. Their loss!
  5. I am well fixed with all the small tools for rigging. Thanks. Having fragile spars being evenly supported is a must when fitting them with eye bolts and the like. More importantly knowing where both hands are at all times in relation to the pertruding mounted spars is key.
  6. Get a KOTTO Third Hand Soldering Tool. 4 great hands that I find very helpful.. On Amazon.
  7. Let me clarify. Drilling itself has not been the problem. I am using tiny diameter drill bits about the diameter of a pin. Most of the holes are drilled on a dremel drill press where the spares are supported. The breaks are happening at the ends of the thinnest masts during subsequent handling of the spars or, mire often from accidently hitting a fragile mounted spar with a hand when rigging. I think I need a few more eyes 🧐.
  8. Its hard to say if the new wood is really any stronger. Where the snapping occurs is on thin spars where a minute hole was drilled. It just takes an accidental light knock to snap them. Having limited vision in one eye makes things more accident prone. I am about to pick up again on my model. All of the smallest diameter spars are waiting my "magic touch".
  9. It was me. Accidental snapping of the thin spars on my 1:96 scale FF has been a problem. I need to be aware where my hands are at all times!
  10. This article was a terrific read! It brings alive just how daring sailing these ships were. My FF model is quite like the Staffordshire - the masts keep snapping 🤔. The other thing I found fascinating was how quickly the Stag Hound was built.
  11. I followed sheet 3. It states the line sizes in the plans are the curcumference measurement. The table then converts it to scale dia. size. The kit did not provide black thread for the 10.5" shrouds (scale dia. 0.035) so I bought some. I measured the diameters of all of my rigging lines with a micrometer scale under a microscope.
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