Stevinne

The futtock shrouds (indeed, the further you go back in time, the less you can do wrong 😉)
 
I chose to place an eye bolt with hook. More work to make eyebolts but easier to mount the rope to the deadeye.

The build of kirrill's Spanish Galleon was very helpfull
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/6262-spanish-galleon-1607-by-kirill4-lee-plastic-1100/?do=findComment&comment=182546

Replace one ratline with a futtock stave. It wasn't uncommon that there were still ratlines above this futtock stave

Work in progress

ready

And work started on a display stand

Thanks for following, comments and likes.

Saved by Kirill post 578, second time 😉 👍
 

Good day Stevinne,
Your plan sounds good!
Don't forget to reinforce top construction, perhabs need to install some wooden or metal pins in some critical points to create reliable connection of top elements ?
When I did my rigging, I don't remember  issues with shrouds twisting, but I try to avoid as much as possible to create any tensions or load on shrouds and other standing rigging( due to plastic masts and spars of my model)... all were  done with applying minimum "forces" if we could say that, moreover, as I mentioned early, do better to paint all threads You use for rigging befor use... it could be painted by mix of artistic oil paints deluted in tick oil and thinner or by acryl artistic paints of suitable colors... actualy we need two colors for our purposes, bright for running rigging  and dark for standing...
There is a  receipt from one of high level modeller , how he paints his rope:
"...for coloring white threads with artistic oil paints, you can dilute the composition in half a liter container, for example - a tube of paint is mixed with liquid oil - teak, for example  (you can add more white spirit - to make the composition more liquid) Natural umber is used for standing rigging.  On running, ocher is added to this paint.
 It is dyed by pulling a thread through a can or a poured puddle of paint.  Then the thread is pulled several times through the cotton glove and hung out to dry.  Can be used in a day.
One of the Model of Dmitry Shevelev  https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=370243#p370243
Before painting or even when threads were painted and still wet and hanging for drying, it could be loaded a little with weight of some steel bolts or nuts which will release internal tensions some times remains in thread ... that also will help to avoid twisting effect...
All the Best!!!
Kirill
Ps 
There is sence to check which kind of  thread used for shrouds - right or left hand made and how it passes around desdeyes - clockwise or counterclockwise direction when fitted? 
Details You could found in Anderson book.
 

You're right about the futtock shrouds. My plan is to do the ratlines on the lower shrouds and then attach the futtocks. In retrospect, perhaps I should have completed the lower shrouds, ratted them and attached the futtocks before I moved on to the topmast. That would have prevented another issue I had with the topmast shrouds, which was the lower deadeyes twisting as I rigged the upper deadeyes. Oh well, live and learn.

I've been slogging through attaching shrouds and thought I was making progress. But, when I went to gather the foremast top shrouds, the top ring of the foremast top came loose, requiring some gluing and clamping. I'd been really careful when originally putting the top together to make sure everything lined up and looked good. Now I fear what things will look like when I remove the clamps.

Krill, I'd originally had the lower mainmast stay rigged as you describe, that is what is called for in the plans, but I was concerned because things were rubbing against the top of the focsle. I looked around for alternatives and found some Golden Hind build logs and copied their approach. The main top stay is rigged as per the plans, though having worked with these plans for many years, I increasingly find that to be little comfort. 

I've been slogging through attaching shrouds and thought I was making progress. But, when I went to gather the foremast top shrouds, the top ring of the foremast top came loose, requiring some gluing and clamping. I'd been really careful when originally putting the top together to make sure everything lined up and looked good. Now I fear what things will look like when I remove the clamps.

I would recommend going to Model Expo and signing up for their email list. They have sales just about every week and the email will keep you abreast. I'd also recommend getting your hands on "Ship Modeling Simplified" by Frank Mastini, which I found invaluable when building my first kit. The book clearly and simply lays out what to do in each step of construction.
 

I would recommend going to Model Expo and signing up for their email list. They have sales just about every week and the email will keep you abreast. I'd also recommend getting your hands on "Ship Modeling Simplified" by Frank Mastini, which I found invaluable when building my first kit. The book clearly and simply lays out what to do in each step of construction.
 

I would recommend going to Model Expo and signing up for their email list. They have sales just about every week and the email will keep you abreast. I'd also recommend getting your hands on "Ship Modeling Simplified" by Frank Mastini, which I found invaluable when building my first kit. The book clearly and simply lays out what to do in each step of construction.
 

I would recommend going to Model Expo and signing up for their email list. They have sales just about every week and the email will keep you abreast. I'd also recommend getting your hands on "Ship Modeling Simplified" by Frank Mastini, which I found invaluable when building my first kit. The book clearly and simply lays out what to do in each step of construction.
 

I would recommend going to Model Expo and signing up for their email list. They have sales just about every week and the email will keep you abreast. I'd also recommend getting your hands on "Ship Modeling Simplified" by Frank Mastini, which I found invaluable when building my first kit. The book clearly and simply lays out what to do in each step of construction.
 

I included one of those in my purchases, and I have to say I am so far impressed with how it works. Granted, I still have many more blocks and deadeyes to thread, but so far the little guy is performing like a champ and shows no sign of giving up the ghost.
 

Put in the fore stays and the foremast shrouds. 

I've started adding fore and back stays, but early on into the process I ran into difficulty. I don't know how many needle threaders Sir Francis Drake took with him when he sailed the Golden Hind around the world, but at $1.50 per pack, for $10 today at Walmart I got enough of these bad boys to hopefully last me a decade or so.

Thank you both.

Thank you both.

Like Phil,  I would use Lees' formulas but keep in mind they are for English ships from 1625 to 1860 so there may be other info out there that is more appropriate.  For our scales, the Lees figures are probably very close.  I THINK my math is right on this. If you are unsure of the topmast shroud size, but know the lower mast diameters, again from Lees, you can multiply the diameter of the appropriate lower mast X 0.198 for the fore and main masts to get the circumference of the top mast shrouds and futtock shrouds.  The circumference of the mizzen futtock shrouds would be 0.25 the diameter of the mizzen lower mast.  At our scales finding the exact right size rope is difficult unless you make your own, but hopefully this might give you a little guidance. 
 
Allan

The futtock shrouds transfer forces from the topmast shrouds to the mast. Therrefore, I would think they would be the same diameter as the topmast shrouds. Lees' Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War says the futtock shrouds were the same size as the topmast shrouds.

Put in the fore stays and the foremast shrouds. 

I've started adding fore and back stays, but early on into the process I ran into difficulty. I don't know how many needle threaders Sir Francis Drake took with him when he sailed the Golden Hind around the world, but at $1.50 per pack, for $10 today at Walmart I got enough of these bad boys to hopefully last me a decade or so.

I remember reading somewhere, maybe in response to questions on a Facebook post by the MR museum, that there are currently no plans to uncover and raise more of the remaining parts of the ship. I think the last thing they raised was what remained of the stem post, but that was decades ago. It is a shame, since it might settle the debates about what the ship looked like in the end once and for all.

Back when MR was first constructed, that was the way warships were built. Cannon, being hard to aim and slow to load, the tactics were to fire a broadside, get close and board and generally, having the highest "castle" at the fore or stern helped you win. It wasn't until the Armada that the English pioneered fighting in lower and more maneuverable ships. That change came along with the change in tactics that called for fighting artillery duels instead of hand-to-hand combat. One of the debates about MR is whether or not they cut her down during the course of her career as they rebuilt her and increased her compliment of heavier guns. 

Put in the fore stays and the foremast shrouds. 

I'd think the forecastle guns were either swivels or what were known as hailshot pieces - light cannon almost like large guns that the shooter would hold while resting the front of the barrel on the rail. This would make sense since some hailshot pieces were found on the wreck. The Anthony Roll and this painting of Henry's court heading to France for the Field of Cloth of Gold show the ports on the focsle, but don't have any guns protruding from them.