Stevinne

I ended up agreeing with both of you on this. Back to the drawing board; see below!
 
First of all, I carried on with my initial construction of the forecastle. Where we left off was pretty close to done, but I finished off with the roof of the cabin and the beams that run vertically up the aft side:

In the Anthony Roll these are extremely curved - I toned that down somewhat, but I did add a little curvature in. It's possible these would have been completely straight.
 
On with the masking tape! This was a time-consuming process, but worth it in the end. Here you see the first layer of gesso on:

 
And here's the stripes!

Pretty happy with this - a few messy bits that I'll clean up later, once the sterncastle is painted.
 
Another view from the front:

 
And now time to rip off that top cabin. I wasn't happy with it, and especially after the feedback from my last post I knew it would never be right to me.
 
Luckily I'd not actually attached it very strongly, and some careful prodding with a hobby saw later...

 
My original front post for the triangular cabin was around 5mm thick, and after some even more careful application of the saw, I had these:

Which had mostly survived unscathed!
 
The original Caldercraft kit had a little archway for the front of the forecastle. I figured I might as well use it here, and created this:

 
And a side view:

I'm much happier with this shape, and I think it works well with the rest of the structure. This means the forecastle is mostly completed, other than the entire aft wall. I still need to decide whether to include the Tudor rose 'figurehead' that was apparently affixed to the tip of the upper deck.
 
Now I've not just been working on the forecastle - if you recall from a previous post I wasn't happy with the clinker planking I'd done over the portholes, so I took those off. Here's what I replaced that with:

I believe that this is much more in line with the 'original', as far as we know. It's also in a similar style to what I've done on the forecastle, so I'm much more satisfied with it.
 
You can also see I've started building up the walls above - these are just thin sheets of plywood as a basis for the coming construction.
 
Here's the poop deck dry fit to check the height:

 
And a full side view:

 
And since then, I've actually made huge progress, adding in the middle deck:

Note I'm not planking the two internal decks; they'll be practically invisible through the tiny portholes, and I'm running a little low on the tanganyika planks I've used for the rest of the decking, so it seems sensible to not waste the wood here. Each of these decks will have two cannon fore and aft, but as you can see in this photo there's little visibility around the barrels anyway. I'll probably not spend too much effort making the carriages perfect either for this reason.
 
There are thirteen portholes on the next level up, separated by distinct uprights. I managed to get exactly thirteen with a pattern using the various scrap pieces the build has generated thus far, which I'm quite pleased with. I'll be rounding out the top of each porthole later down the line. The strips of sapelli veneer will be painted over with gesso and then stripes.

 
And here's the top deck in place, with masts all test fit just because I could:

 
A view from the other side:

 
My plan is to put a small railing around the top of the sterncastle as well, which will give me space for the top line of stripes. In between this and the previous line is a strange pattern of cross hatching - I'm not entirely sure what to do here, so any input would be very appreciated.
 
A couple final details before I sign off - the top of the forecastle planked:

 
And a full view of the sterncastle's port side:

You can also see I've started planking the poop deck here. Once the railing is in place my next task will be working out how on earth to get 1:80 scale boarding netting to look good. Any suggestions?!
 
That's all for now - I've packed up for Christmas as we've got lots of family round and the dining table was required. Thanks for reading, and happy holidays to all!

The Revell USS Olympia has been rated as the finest plastic model of this famous ship. I improved the model with laser cut wood decks and many photo etched parts.
The model was airbrushed using Trucolor paints.

As I promised earlier hereby the (temporary) 'natural surrounding' of the frigate Postiljon. It is the situation during the Raid on the Medway on June 22 1667. Earlier the fortress Sheerness at the mouth of the river was conquered, the chain that closed the river was broken and here Upnor castle is under attack by the Dutch frigates. Three of the king's ships laid up near the castle were set to fire and little later the flagship Royal Charles was taken and brought to Holland as a trofee. The action speeded up the negotiations for a profitable peace and is still in the Dutch history books as a showpiece for the abilities of admiral Michiel de Ruyter (although he himself only arrived at the end of the action). I'm sure English history books have another view of the event if mentioned at all.
Emiel tried to keep as close to the facts as possible.
 

Very nice. Welcome aboard.
 

I started this in September. This is my first build.

Definitely sign up for Model Expo emails - they frequently have sales, so the emails will alert you.
I agree with the recommendation to start with some of the Model Shipways starter kits or something like the Phantom.
I'd also recommend picking up the book "Ship Modeling Simplified" by Frank Mastini, which does a good job of laying out all you need to know for building a first kit.

Definitely sign up for Model Expo emails - they frequently have sales, so the emails will alert you.
I agree with the recommendation to start with some of the Model Shipways starter kits or something like the Phantom.
I'd also recommend picking up the book "Ship Modeling Simplified" by Frank Mastini, which does a good job of laying out all you need to know for building a first kit.

Definitely sign up for Model Expo emails - they frequently have sales, so the emails will alert you.
I agree with the recommendation to start with some of the Model Shipways starter kits or something like the Phantom.
I'd also recommend picking up the book "Ship Modeling Simplified" by Frank Mastini, which does a good job of laying out all you need to know for building a first kit.

East Carolina University is very involved in the survey of the Queen Anne's Revenge site. They would probably be worth looking into.

East Carolina University is very involved in the survey of the Queen Anne's Revenge site. They would probably be worth looking into.

There is a very nice Mary Rose build log on another site by a member named Graham who also bashed the kit to bring it more into line with the Anthony Roll. He is nearly complete with his and it is looking very nice. 

Thank you Hamilton!
Thanks! It definitely took some planning and careful work. I'm quite happy with it.
Really appreciate that!
 
 
Now it's time for rigging. Both the instructions and many build logs don't include a lot of details here. Not to say I'm going to, but I'm always looking to see how anyone has brought any particular section up a notch. So like I said, not a lot of added on details here. I did get some small black beads for the parrels. I painted them with mat water based poly later.
 
I taped the fabric down on a large cutting mat. Painted it with glue/water mix. I will note that I used Elmer's school glue instead of Titebond I have used everywhere else. Titebond has a yellow color to it and can show on a sail. (Ahem, foreshadowing...) Marked and glued the strips. After thoroughly drying I punched 1mm holes where needed. Put on the mast hoops and tied up the threads.Then started glueing on the tiny strings. Those were a real pain to get to stay on. I used PVA, then CA and I kept knocking them off. I had already cut them so threading them through with a knot on each side wasn't an option. At one point I reglued a few on with Titebond... see above. Gotta keep your wits about ya!
 

 
I had to move the topmost eyelet up a bit for the rigging to work. The top block was hitting the middle block.

 
Finally got to use my Ultimation slicer when I made some covers for the live wells. Made them out of mahogany. Instead of one wide piece I cut them up and then randomized the planks because a piece that wide wouldn't exist. Bent some tiny brass for handles. Stain then mat poly.
I also made a linear style sander with some linear bearings and some MDF scrap. Works pretty well, it does have a tendency to try to rotate the work piece on the back stroke. As long as you're careful it works well. It was great to sand these square.
 

 
Are these not the freaking cutest? I glued it on askew to cover that mistake on the deck. Color is odd because it's through glass.
 

I made some rope coils then did some paint touch ups. Are ropes coiled like this? Looks backwards to me. Here are final pics and some extras that just didn't fit in the log.

 
 
 
After making a stand for the Pram and the Lobster smack, we are calling it FINISHED.
 
Here we are with the completed fleet, under an old fish tank I had. It's about 1/2" short for the Pram so I'll put some sort of frame around the base.
 
 

 
 
Next on the bench...

 
 
Thank you all for the continued support, encouragement and for the continuing education!
 
Chris
 
 
 
 

There is a very nice Mary Rose build log on another site by a member named Graham who also bashed the kit to bring it more into line with the Anthony Roll. He is nearly complete with his and it is looking very nice. 

Very nice. Congratulations!

I've been making sails, doing the rigging, and finishing up odds and ends, and here's the result:
 

 
There were challenges along the way, but as before, they made the completion more exciting.

In spite of my shaking hands and fading eyesight I just could not resist the building of this light frigate.
The Postiljon only measured 100 x 24,5 x 10,25 feet and was armed with 20 guns. Het crew existed of 75 men. She was part of the group that executed the Raid on Chatham, an occasion at which many British warships were burned and the flagship Royal Charles was captured and brought to the Netherlands. Postiljon only played a modest roll in the event, but she was on the Medway, so she wrote history.
I pictured het counter-braced to come to a halt. We will probably come with images showing her in her natural surroundings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For whoever is interested, here are the plans in 1/77 scale. The model measures 52 cm over all, bowsprit and lanterns included.

I hope you like it.
Ab
 
 
Postiljon_rev_1_77b.pdf

I've thought about printing the name of ships in white letters on a black background using clear laser-jet decal paper to. Since the printer doesn't print white, that would allow me to place the decal on a brass strip, allowing the letters to be in brass surrounded by a black background. I have not tried it yet. 
 

I've thought about printing the name of ships in white letters on a black background using clear laser-jet decal paper to. Since the printer doesn't print white, that would allow me to place the decal on a brass strip, allowing the letters to be in brass surrounded by a black background. I have not tried it yet. 
 

I've thought about printing the name of ships in white letters on a black background using clear laser-jet decal paper to. Since the printer doesn't print white, that would allow me to place the decal on a brass strip, allowing the letters to be in brass surrounded by a black background. I have not tried it yet. 
 

Instead of a rabbet, you can bevel the inside of the underside edge of the plank. I have done that in the past and it gave a nice, tight fit. I do the same thing with the front edge of the plank, again so it lays nicely flat against the keel.
Are you starting your planking at the front of the ship, working backward? That allows you to get a good, strong attachment first, and once you achieve that then you can work backward.
My preferred method is to bend the plank to shape as much as possible and then use CA glue on the front of the plank, and the first pair of bulkheads while I paint and the bow filler blocks with wood glue. I attach it, hold it in place until the CA grabs and dries and then apply pins to hold it into place while the wood glue dries up. Once enough time has passed I then move on to attaching the rest of the plank in a similar fashion, doing a couple of bulkheads and allowing for drying time. Once all is dry, I then break out the wood glue again and use the opening in the hull from the missing planks to paint some wood glue on the bulkheads to reinforce the CA. I let that dry.
I use the same technique on subsequent planks, with the only difference being that I paint the top of the plank with wood glue and push it up tight against the upper plank to both ensure a snug fit and allow the glue to solidify the hull.
Frank Mastini's "Ship Modeling Simplified" offers great advice on planking (and just about everything else for someone starting out in the hobby).
     

Instead of a rabbet, you can bevel the inside of the underside edge of the plank. I have done that in the past and it gave a nice, tight fit. I do the same thing with the front edge of the plank, again so it lays nicely flat against the keel.
Are you starting your planking at the front of the ship, working backward? That allows you to get a good, strong attachment first, and once you achieve that then you can work backward.
My preferred method is to bend the plank to shape as much as possible and then use CA glue on the front of the plank, and the first pair of bulkheads while I paint and the bow filler blocks with wood glue. I attach it, hold it in place until the CA grabs and dries and then apply pins to hold it into place while the wood glue dries up. Once enough time has passed I then move on to attaching the rest of the plank in a similar fashion, doing a couple of bulkheads and allowing for drying time. Once all is dry, I then break out the wood glue again and use the opening in the hull from the missing planks to paint some wood glue on the bulkheads to reinforce the CA. I let that dry.
I use the same technique on subsequent planks, with the only difference being that I paint the top of the plank with wood glue and push it up tight against the upper plank to both ensure a snug fit and allow the glue to solidify the hull.
Frank Mastini's "Ship Modeling Simplified" offers great advice on planking (and just about everything else for someone starting out in the hobby).
     

And it end up like this with the ship glued in with the foam

That's the same technique they used on a lot of the gold materials found in King Tut's tomb. I saw an exhibit of the items many years ago and the coolest part was that once you got up close, you could see the impressions left on the gold leaf by the fingers of the people who applied it. As for the support brackets on the galleon, I'd think that's the manufacturer deciding it would be easier to provide cast pieces instead of carved wood.
 

I bought this kit ages ago for when I needed a palate cleanser. So I got an aftermarket set (which is designed for a SSNModellbou kits it appears ) then parked it and pretty much forgot about it. I did pull it out once as I thought I’d make it as a sci-fi flying boat but saw the forgotten aftermarket set in the box and re parked it. 
 
Then I’ve been told again I’m presenting at our annual show so I asked online what people want and was told how to do seascapes. There are lots of I tube videos and about 7 ways of doing it but how to do it as a quick demo? 
 
So I used my foam cutter and make a progression of seascapes which will culminate in a complete model on a base in a sea. 
 
Now the kit! Not much to it. I built it in 20 minutes so I had a template to use. 
 

Yes. She has a small bed and is the first dog we've had that actually enjoys sleeping in a bed. She ties herself in a tight knot and likes having a padded wall she can rest against. Lucky for us, she also seems smart and was able to pick up house training in just a few days.