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Stevinne

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  1. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from Canute in Modelling magazines (Moved by moderator)   
    I was wondering if there is a good nautical history magazine folks could recommend.
    I do have to say I read the NRG article on the development of Long Tom cannons and thought it was really well done.
    I do find this site and the build logs here better, and more informative, than any magazine I've seen, and the pictures here are better than some of those that are published.
  2. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    Spent a little more time this evening sanding the slots to hold the gundeck planks. I'd tried using needle files, but found a long strip of 100 grit sandpaper worked a lot better. Now the planks slide in with no trouble

  3. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from J11 in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    Spent a little more time this evening sanding the slots to hold the gundeck planks. I'd tried using needle files, but found a long strip of 100 grit sandpaper worked a lot better. Now the planks slide in with no trouble

  4. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    So, with Spring, hopefully around the corner my thoughts turn back to the water and ships.
    Today I worked on fairing the frame, sanding the bulkheads and making sure, hopefully, that everything will lie nicely once I start planking.
    The bulkheads have a slot to put in planking that will be the gun deck, though the slot is awfully narrow, so spent a lot of time opening that up, too. Next step will be installing the gun deck.

  5. Like
    Stevinne reacted to ahb26 in Joe Lane by ahb26 (Andrew Bodge) - FINISHED - Marine Model Company - Scale 1/8”=1’ - Revenue Cutter - Inherited kit, novice modeler   
    I appreciate the comments, thanks!  With the workspace more or less cleared, I laid out the spars against the plans.  The yards, gaffs, topmasts and bowsprit are furnished tapered and cut to the correct length, with the exception of the topmasts, which seem to be much too long.  The lower masts are simple 1/4" dowels.

    The first step is to assemble the masts, using the supplied tops and caps and making sure that the other parts fit.  I cut the square sections in the lower mast heads and topmast heels, cut and filed the flash out of the diecast tops and caps, and dry-fit it all together.  Each mast has a fife rail and a ring of wedges, and the foremast has a truss for the lower yard.


    I'll call that a good day's work.  The masts and other spars still need sanding and staining along with myriad other operations, and the diecasts will need de-flashing and painting before final assembly.  One thing at a time...
  6. Like
    Stevinne reacted to trippwj in Modelling magazines (Moved by moderator)   
    Probably the 2 best for historical research are Mariner's Mirror (Society for Nautical Research) and The Nirthern Mariner (Canadian Nautical Research Society).  While each has a tendency to highlight the home team, so to speak (SNR is from UK), they each cover a broad variety of topics. 
  7. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from trippwj in Modelling magazines (Moved by moderator)   
    I was wondering if there is a good nautical history magazine folks could recommend.
    I do have to say I read the NRG article on the development of Long Tom cannons and thought it was really well done.
    I do find this site and the build logs here better, and more informative, than any magazine I've seen, and the pictures here are better than some of those that are published.
  8. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from mtaylor in Modelling magazines (Moved by moderator)   
    I was wondering if there is a good nautical history magazine folks could recommend.
    I do have to say I read the NRG article on the development of Long Tom cannons and thought it was really well done.
    I do find this site and the build logs here better, and more informative, than any magazine I've seen, and the pictures here are better than some of those that are published.
  9. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from -Dallen in Instructions are important to me   
    I built Constructo's Enterprise, and the instructions left lots to be desired, but I think they've updated the kit since then.I swear by Frank Mastini's "Ship Modeling Simplified," While not specific to one kit, it is a step-by-step guide that, with a good set of plans, can get you going on any beginner or internediate model. I gave the book and MS Bluenose to my father in law and he built a very nice ship, so that might be a kit to consider.
  10. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from Canute in Instructions are important to me   
    I built Constructo's Enterprise, and the instructions left lots to be desired, but I think they've updated the kit since then.I swear by Frank Mastini's "Ship Modeling Simplified," While not specific to one kit, it is a step-by-step guide that, with a good set of plans, can get you going on any beginner or internediate model. I gave the book and MS Bluenose to my father in law and he built a very nice ship, so that might be a kit to consider.
  11. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Instructions are important to me   
    I built Constructo's Enterprise, and the instructions left lots to be desired, but I think they've updated the kit since then.I swear by Frank Mastini's "Ship Modeling Simplified," While not specific to one kit, it is a step-by-step guide that, with a good set of plans, can get you going on any beginner or internediate model. I gave the book and MS Bluenose to my father in law and he built a very nice ship, so that might be a kit to consider.
  12. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from Don Quixote in Instructions are important to me   
    I built Constructo's Enterprise, and the instructions left lots to be desired, but I think they've updated the kit since then.I swear by Frank Mastini's "Ship Modeling Simplified," While not specific to one kit, it is a step-by-step guide that, with a good set of plans, can get you going on any beginner or internediate model. I gave the book and MS Bluenose to my father in law and he built a very nice ship, so that might be a kit to consider.
  13. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from mtaylor in Instructions are important to me   
    I built Constructo's Enterprise, and the instructions left lots to be desired, but I think they've updated the kit since then.I swear by Frank Mastini's "Ship Modeling Simplified," While not specific to one kit, it is a step-by-step guide that, with a good set of plans, can get you going on any beginner or internediate model. I gave the book and MS Bluenose to my father in law and he built a very nice ship, so that might be a kit to consider.
  14. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    Moving on with the build. I sanded the slots in the frames that will hold planking for the gundeck. I figured I'd do this before I had the upper deck on to make things easier. Then I had to form some crossbeams for upper deck supports, which was accomplished using my mitre box and then some sanding to get a curve in the top of each beam to give the deck the bowed appearance. I put those in place, but then realized I had to remove the beams for the poop and quarter deck, as the sequence of installing the decks dictates when the beams can be put in place.
    Put in the decking at the very bow of the ship, which caused me to come up with my first question for you folks out there.
    The instructions don't say anything, but I don't  think I should sand frame No. 1 that is extending past the deck to follow the curve of the deck, While this will assure there is no gap when I start to plank, it would also require I sand frame No.2 I will likely just sand the edges, to allow for a nice bend, and then plank the deck to follow the lay of the hull planking, if that makes sense.
    Anyone disagree?
    Thanks in advance for any input.




  15. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    Time to add the bulkheads. The big beams down the center assure things are kept true.



  16. Like
    Stevinne reacted to Homebrew in USS Kearsarge by Homebrew - Scientific Models - Scale 1:90   
    I like to model while listening to the audiobook series of Aubrey-Maturin by Patrick O'Brian.
    The one I am listening to at the moment is book 3 - H. M. S. Surprise. It is read by the soothing voice of Patrick Tull
     
    Cheers
    Mark
    from Tasmania
     
    ps. 
    Still ratlining
    .
  17. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from J11 in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    Moving on with the build. I sanded the slots in the frames that will hold planking for the gundeck. I figured I'd do this before I had the upper deck on to make things easier. Then I had to form some crossbeams for upper deck supports, which was accomplished using my mitre box and then some sanding to get a curve in the top of each beam to give the deck the bowed appearance. I put those in place, but then realized I had to remove the beams for the poop and quarter deck, as the sequence of installing the decks dictates when the beams can be put in place.
    Put in the decking at the very bow of the ship, which caused me to come up with my first question for you folks out there.
    The instructions don't say anything, but I don't  think I should sand frame No. 1 that is extending past the deck to follow the curve of the deck, While this will assure there is no gap when I start to plank, it would also require I sand frame No.2 I will likely just sand the edges, to allow for a nice bend, and then plank the deck to follow the lay of the hull planking, if that makes sense.
    Anyone disagree?
    Thanks in advance for any input.




  18. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    It's with a little trepidation that I start my first build log on MSW. The Roter Lowe is my third plank-on-bulkhead build, the first being Constructo's Enterprise, followed up by AL's Renard. It's by far the most complex build I've undertaken, and my first with multiple gun decks and decorative woodwork. In this kit, the decorations are a mix of inlaid wood and printed cardboard. Not sure how I feel about the cardboard, yet. The materials look nice and the instructions come on five dual-sided sheets of plans.
    I'm a bit concerned because the guns on the enclosed gun deck are to be mounted on carriages - I worry about them coming loose during the build and rattling around in the hull. I have to figure out some way to address that.
    I picked up the kit a couple of years ago when Model Expo was having a moving sale. 
    I'm a very slow builder, with lots of starts and stops, so be warned.
    All that being said, let's post some pictures.







  19. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from J11 in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    Time to add the bulkheads. The big beams down the center assure things are kept true.



  20. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from J11 in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    It's with a little trepidation that I start my first build log on MSW. The Roter Lowe is my third plank-on-bulkhead build, the first being Constructo's Enterprise, followed up by AL's Renard. It's by far the most complex build I've undertaken, and my first with multiple gun decks and decorative woodwork. In this kit, the decorations are a mix of inlaid wood and printed cardboard. Not sure how I feel about the cardboard, yet. The materials look nice and the instructions come on five dual-sided sheets of plans.
    I'm a bit concerned because the guns on the enclosed gun deck are to be mounted on carriages - I worry about them coming loose during the build and rattling around in the hull. I have to figure out some way to address that.
    I picked up the kit a couple of years ago when Model Expo was having a moving sale. 
    I'm a very slow builder, with lots of starts and stops, so be warned.
    All that being said, let's post some pictures.







  21. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    Moving on with the build. I sanded the slots in the frames that will hold planking for the gundeck. I figured I'd do this before I had the upper deck on to make things easier. Then I had to form some crossbeams for upper deck supports, which was accomplished using my mitre box and then some sanding to get a curve in the top of each beam to give the deck the bowed appearance. I put those in place, but then realized I had to remove the beams for the poop and quarter deck, as the sequence of installing the decks dictates when the beams can be put in place.
    Put in the decking at the very bow of the ship, which caused me to come up with my first question for you folks out there.
    The instructions don't say anything, but I don't  think I should sand frame No. 1 that is extending past the deck to follow the curve of the deck, While this will assure there is no gap when I start to plank, it would also require I sand frame No.2 I will likely just sand the edges, to allow for a nice bend, and then plank the deck to follow the lay of the hull planking, if that makes sense.
    Anyone disagree?
    Thanks in advance for any input.




  22. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from cristikc in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    Time to add the bulkheads. The big beams down the center assure things are kept true.



  23. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    So the build begins. This is the first time I've had to deal with a multi-part main frame. A little glue and some weights should do the trick.
    Had some help from my second mate tonight. A thunder storm was rumbling through, and she felt it important to be as close as possible to guard my feet.
     



  24. Like
    Stevinne got a reaction from reklein in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    It's with a little trepidation that I start my first build log on MSW. The Roter Lowe is my third plank-on-bulkhead build, the first being Constructo's Enterprise, followed up by AL's Renard. It's by far the most complex build I've undertaken, and my first with multiple gun decks and decorative woodwork. In this kit, the decorations are a mix of inlaid wood and printed cardboard. Not sure how I feel about the cardboard, yet. The materials look nice and the instructions come on five dual-sided sheets of plans.
    I'm a bit concerned because the guns on the enclosed gun deck are to be mounted on carriages - I worry about them coming loose during the build and rattling around in the hull. I have to figure out some way to address that.
    I picked up the kit a couple of years ago when Model Expo was having a moving sale. 
    I'm a very slow builder, with lots of starts and stops, so be warned.
    All that being said, let's post some pictures.







  25. Like
    Stevinne reacted to EJ_L in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    The most common way of making sure your planks are going to lay right on your frames is to "fair" the hull. This is done by laying a temporary strip of wood across all the frames. If the strip lays flush with the frame then no sanding is needed. If there are gaps then sanding must be done on that frame. On most ships almost all the frames at the bow will need to be sanded to some degree. The stern can vary depending upon how much curve there is. The mid section typically does not need much sanding. Again this varies per ship. I highly recommend taking the time to do a proper fairing of the hull. It will help immensely when you go to plank her. Skipping this step usually only leads to headaches later. 
     
    Also, if you are planning to plank the inside bulkheads then fairing needs to be done on the inside of the frames as well. I know this is a lot of tedious work but we all do it and I think you will see if you read the beginning of almost any P.o.F. or P.o.B. log that this is a vital step. 
     
    Otherwise, your framing is looking great. You are well on your way.
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