shiprookie
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shiprookie reacted to dvm27 in Speedwell 1752 by dvm27 (Greg Herbert) - FINISHED - Ketch Rigged Sloop
The belaying pins are now installed in their shroud deflectors. That's a term I had never read before but that's what they're called according to Markquardt. Perhaps they're called pin rails only when affixed to the inner bulwarks. The deflectors have grooves filed on the outboard edge for the shrouds and lashings inboard and are surprisingly strong once attached. At any rate, I was able to hone my lathe technique to turn out consistent pins. Next it's on to ratlines. Perhaps Archjofo would fly in from Germany to show me how he successfully duplicated actual practice when securing them to the outer shrouds. Personally. I believe he used Photoshop as this is not humanly possible to do.
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shiprookie reacted to dvm27 in Speedwell 1752 by dvm27 (Greg Herbert) - FINISHED - Ketch Rigged Sloop
As many of my favorite modelers are posting updates this weekend I thought I'd share some recent progress on Speedwell. She is now sporting her copper cupola (say that three times quickly!) which arches over the steps to the "Great Cabin". I use that term in quotes because, after the lockers are installed, there is little room for the commanding Lieutenant. But this little vessel was designed for shore duty and was seldom used for sleeping. The cupola was shaped from a square of holly, hollowed out then spray painted with a hammered copper finish followed by matte varnish.
The rudderhead cover was also shaped from a holly plug which was then hollowed out. The panels were added to each side. Each one was a different dimension and all are hand fitted.
A little more work on the inside and outside of the hull and Speedwell, Volume I, will be off to the press!
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shiprookie reacted to giampieroricci in HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert
some photos with a view from the lowerdeck:
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shiprookie reacted to giampieroricci in HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert
The gratings:
I have taken a little liberty in interpreting the fore hatch gratings as far as the passage of the elbows is concerned. I was inspired by the work done by Matiz on his Euryalus, although perhaps the eras are slightly different.
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shiprookie reacted to mtaylor in HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert
That was a tough call on whether to hit "Wow" or "Laugh". The work is a "Wow"....
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shiprookie reacted to WackoWolf in Royal Barge scratch built by David Antscherl - FINISHED
Now that is beyond beautiful. I am hopping that after the knee surgery that sometime this summer I will go and see Kevin in England and then go to the NMM and see all the excellent stuff that is still shown there and of course the Victory and the Warrior. But I will go there in 2017 that is for sure.
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shiprookie reacted to Gbmodeler in MSB 6 by Gbmodeler - FINISHED - 1/96 scale - 1952 United States Minesweeping Boat
Just waiting for the 48 star U.S. flag I ordered to come in the mail from Canada....
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shiprookie reacted to Gbmodeler in MSB 6 by Gbmodeler - FINISHED - 1/96 scale - 1952 United States Minesweeping Boat
She's finished! A gallery of photos is at
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shiprookie reacted to SawdustDave in USS Constitution by SawdustDave - FINISHED - 1:60th Scale
After several days of working on prototypes for cannons and carronades.... including their carriages, and rigging.... I guess I'm about ready to move back to the ship for a while.
With so many of these guns to create, I'm hoping to get the technique for creating and installing them down to within reason. The mock up of a gun port has been invaluable in that respect. I came to the conclusion that a few trade-offs was necessary in terms of being able to install each gun.
The hooks that attach the block to the bulwark has to be much longer in order to get them to anchor into the eye rings.
I also learned that all rigging must be attached to the carriage and cannon before attempting to install.
Also.... the cannon restraining rope must be hooked in place before attempting to hook the block and tackle hooks.
Finally, I was able to develop this little jig which will be used to make all of the rigging the exact same length.... very critical.
With 30 long guns and 24 carronades needed, my plan, for now, is to build three long gun and two carronade modules per week as I continue with progress on the ship..... in 10 weeks I should have all the guns completed.
This is, by far, more fully rigged guns than I have ever installed on a ship.
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shiprookie reacted to SawdustDave in USS Constitution by SawdustDave - FINISHED - 1:60th Scale
Beak painted ....
All bulkheads fitted to the former with careful measurements taken to insure precise spacing at the outer edges and top surface alignment from bow to stern.
Next task of fairing the edges and creating bow and stern filler blocks.
Also, I finished the starboard side carvings and painted the whole beak flat black. Then used a straight razor blade to scrape the top surface of the carvings clean, leaving the black background.
Then added the delicate double trim rails above and below the carvings and painted them flat black.
After three coats of acrylic white, mostly applied with a tooth pic, completed the beak by painting out the red/white/blue shield....again, acrylic paint applied with very sharp tooth pic.
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shiprookie reacted to SawdustDave in USS Constitution by SawdustDave - FINISHED - 1:60th Scale
Beak refinement....
The last posting was an experiment, but needed refinement in order to entirely work. The idea to use a router to create and inlay proved to have issues in terms of allowing me to attach the bow stem to the assembly now, yet allowing me to work on the beak carvings off ship.
I worked it out by completely whacking off the beak and creating a tongue-and-groove beak that can be added after completing the carvings.
Problem solved!
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shiprookie reacted to SawdustDave in USS Constitution by SawdustDave - FINISHED - 1:60th Scale
The Billet Head....
I spent a lot of time finding and studying close up photos of the beak .... particularly the billet head. Most interesting was this old photo I found of the original billet head after being removed for restoration.
Since this is something that must be done off-ship, I decided I will need to do the carving before fitting the beak to the keel former. That represents a big problem with gluing up the entire assembly....right?!
Went to bed last night with this on my mind, realizing I would never be able to come anywhere close to creating that detail with the wood I used to create the bow stem....poplar is not great for carving small details.
The solution popped in me noggin at 4:30 am.... Up and to the ship yard!
Four hours later......
This is the beak as created from the plan pattern....
And here's the beginning of the poly vinyl billet head carving I began working on this morning. Much to go yet, but I'm fairly pleased with the experiment at this stage.
And the simple method that came to me at 4:30 am this morning.... inlay the carving onto the beak!
Used a small router to remove the material from the area where the inlay will be fitted.
Once finished and painted up with black and white details, I'm hoping it will turn out not too bad.
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shiprookie reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Thank you, everyone. So, we come to the end of this particular journey. I appreciate all who have followed along. Happy model-making to you all.
BTW, I've no idea what might be next - yet.
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shiprookie reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
So, the moldings I cut and ebonized yesterday have been assembled on the base and the acrylic pedestals installed. The model has been mounted on these using spots of epoxy. I now have to wait for the case to be made before I can mount the base on the much larger sub-base and attach the oars. Almost there!
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shiprookie reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Thanks for looking in, everyone.
The tholes were completed and the rub strake installed. The rub strake profile was rounded using a molding scraper and lengths then cut off using a slitting blade in the saw.
The last challenge was the roundels at the bow. The lettering was too small to paint by hand, so I created the roundels in PhotoShop at 600 dpi and printed multiple copies. The rope ring was beige thread. I formed the rings by wrapping thread around a drill bit shank, stiffening them with white glue. When dry, the rings were sliced off and glued to the roundels. The roundels were then cut free of the paper and the cut edges match painted.
The rudder is next, as this completed the boat itself.
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shiprookie reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Thank you again, everyone, for following along and for your kind comments.
The seat back held several challenges. It curves, is tilted and has to fit properly. The shape was determined using card patterns. A two-layer veneer of Castello was laid up on a one quart paint can. This, 4" in diameter, was exactly the correct radius - sometimes the gods smile upon us. I noted two supporting battens on the rear of the seat back, just visible in one of Eberhard's photos. As it turned out, constructing the back was the easy part. Much more challenging were the two 'horns'; the supporting timbers on the fore side of the seat. Compound curved surfaces and compound angled scores were needed. It took a very long full morning to successfully complete these. These completed the internal woodwork on the cutter.
Next will be finishing the exterior: rudder, rubbing strake, tholes and decorative roundels at the bow.
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shiprookie reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
More finishing details at the stern; a step and a hoop for an ensign staff. The photo I have of this area shows more metalwork, but it looks as if this was added later by the museum for the anti-hogging arrangement.
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shiprookie reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Moving on, all the standards (inverted knees) have been added to the thwarts and the model removed from the 'girdle'. As the standards are so small, I've found it easier to install them oversize and then reduce them to final dimension when firmly glued in. You can see some 'as installed' ones and other standards finished. To shape them, I use micro chisels and a custom sandpaper stick.
Next are the pillars under the thwarts. To turn such thin pieces, it is necessary to support them. I cut down a piece of brass tube and fixed in in the tailstock so that the stock can revolve freely in it. Notches mark the main dimensions of the baluster so that I can replicate the turning.
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shiprookie reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The futtocks are now complete. The S-curved timbers aft were very challenging to bend and fit. Next are the floors. You can see the first midship floor already installed. Floors are in two parts for convenience, as the joints will be covered by the keelson.
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shiprookie reacted to stuglo in Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
Knees to Gangboards.
Support the walkways between the Forecastle and Quarter deck.
A set of 6 either side. These Hanging Knees are 2.12mm thick.
The first 5 have an arm 9mm and leg 17.5 mm- the sixth has a short leg but arm of 17.5mm
The arms are set to allow for the thickness of the gangboard, so the upper surface is level with the top of the Bulwark. Reading ahead, the forecastle planks are 1.33mm - I allowed this for the gangboards.
Also the arms are angled as are the quarter deck beams. Estimating this is not so easy, and I expect some adjustment when the Gangboards are fitted later in the build.
**When fitting the aftmost (6th) Knee, I realised that the Forecastle Bulkhead and Beam was about 4 mm too aft. This was therefore unglued (alcohol) and re-sited in the correct position**
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shiprookie reacted to Jack H in HMS Cumberland 1774 by Jack H - 1:36 &1:48 - POF - kit development for True Image Models
Yes，that's basically the first chapter.
And then I went on to process the 1:48 parts, and I started to make this model in a real sense, I want to show you my idea, that is, how to simplify a complex POF model into several large parts by machine and hands, so that modelers with common skills and no professional tools can make this complex model.
This is the first step. Let's take a look at the basic parts of pear wood and the pre assembled parts of jujube wood on the right.I will process a set of Asian boxwood samples at the same time.Maybe you are tired of looking at those model parts all the time. Indeed, I am too busy. I have to go to work during the day, and then design and process the ship model in my spare time. Maybe I only have a few hours of spare time every day. However, my classmate's processing factory can process these parts in batch ,I insist on testing these parts myself in the hope of finding more mistakes and modifying them.
On the left is Chinese pear wood, and on the right is jujube wood. Asian boxwood and jujube wood look similar, but undoubtedly boxwood is the best, more delicate than pear wood, and has good color. In the future, I will release about 3-10 full boxwood kits, if anyone likes them.
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shiprookie reacted to Jaekon Lee in HMS Alert 1777 by Jaekon Lee - 1/64
Tip - Joining Clamp
In this small scale model, the spacing between frames is very narrow, sometimes less than 1mm, holding parts after gluing is somewhat difficult. For this, I made special clamping tool and found that it is quite useful and handy, so I introduce it to all. As can be seen at last pic, it can be made easily with paper clip and small wood block and wedge without special tools.
Cheers
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shiprookie reacted to giampieroricci in HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert
Thank you, my friends!
Some step:
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shiprookie reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Another two strakes completed. The next strake will be the sheer strake. A smooth sheer line will make or break the model. Speaking of breaking, the moment of truth nears; that of removing the shell from the plug. From past experience there will be loud cracking nosies - heart-stopping! - and usually a few planks 'spring' a little, but it is all repairable. We shall see....
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shiprookie reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The garboard completed both sides and pins removed, the second strake was next. In the first photo you can see two of the various hold-down strategies used.
To spile planking at this scale is difficult to do the traditional way using a set of compasses. I now use Scotch brand matte removable tape. I lay a strip over the model and dot every ¼" or so. The tape is stripped off and laid on the stock (photo). The side to be joined to the existing strake is cut first and as accurately as possible. I use a sharp scalpel and ship's curve for this. The other side is cut a little wide of the marks. The plank is then fitted and fettled if necessary before refining the free edge. It is then shaped and glued into place. Once a strake is completed I sight along it to see if there is any waviness and file the edge smooth before continuing with the next strake.
Now on to the second strake, port side. The process outlined above will continue until planking is completed.
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