Barbossa
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Mary Rose by Baker - scale 1/50 - "Your Noblest Shippe"
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HMS Pegasus by Barbossa - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64
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San Felipe 1690 by dziadek4444 - Panart - 1:75
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Mary Rose by Baker - scale 1/50 - "Your Noblest Shippe"
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Große Jacht 1679 by Baker - Corel - 1:50 - from the Yacht D'Oro kit
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Große Jacht 1679 by Baker - Corel - 1:50 - from the Yacht D'Oro kit
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HMS Pegasus by Barbossa - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64
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Bonjour de Belgique
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HMS Pegasus by Barbossa - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64
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Upper rail, Quarter deck ( starboard side ) As a deviated a bit from building instructions as well as the supplied parts, quite happy with the result after all. A previous build, San Felipe ( few decades ago ) was a source of inspiration for the extra decoration strip. Next post will be realted to the port side and I'll get more into details ( kind a step by step )
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Mary Rose by Baker - scale 1/50 - "Your Noblest Shippe"
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Barbossa reacted to a post in a topic:
Mary Rose by Baker - scale 1/50 - "Your Noblest Shippe"
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Barbossa reacted to a post in a topic:
Mary Rose by Baker - scale 1/50 - "Your Noblest Shippe"
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HMS Pegasus by Barbossa - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64
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Hi Folks, Regarding the swivel guns, I think we may have a breakthrough. 1) The guns : purchased them in the aftermarket, I believe the brand is Mantua 2) The handle : I made it eassy on myself. Open an eyelet ( gently ) put the loop around the cascable and gently close and fix the loop. Bend 90°. On the tail I glued a sort of a "mini-donut". The latter is available in handcraft-hobby stores. 3) The fitting : as I'm not going to install the hammocks, I used the PE parts for this purpose. 4) Wooden support : made out of 4x4mm birch. Not the ideal material but imho better than walnut. The availability of e.g. boxwood in the neighourhood is a bit questionable. Accordingly to instructions drill a 1mm hole in a 3x3mm walnut piece....as this particular piece has a slot in that area....well, good luck with that. Some extra sanding and painting will do the job. After some research, I noticed other , probably better solutions but often they involved soldering, etc...I was not into that. Not the ideal, but I can live with it. Any thoughts on this are welcome.
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Et voilà. next update : next of the deck stuff especially swivel guns. This might take a while, I'm not very enthousiatic about what the kit provides regarding the matter.
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At last : chainplates & channels done on both sides. At present and not provided by the kit an addition to the gallion. I admit it's a simplified version but I'm working with 1.5 mm plywood. Thus I can't take any chances. Although, I have no clue regarding the purpose of this item.
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Probably ( or certainly ? ) not by the book.... Adding clinker planks on the surface involved and painting accordingly the quarterdeck might help but as mentioned I'm afraid this option is in opposition with the original plans ? Tiger II ? I'm amazed by the weathering effects you can admire on plastic modelling fora ( and diorama's )
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Chainplates and channels ( post 1/2 ) It's been a while, but I must admit I struggled a bit regarding this stage and came,to the conclusion to copy paste the approach of my previous build ( HMS Diana ). Thus I replaced the deadeye chainplate with blackened ironthread and part n° 174 with Gütterman thread. Regarding this latter part, I was not very fond of the gap. The thread : had to make sure the knots were tightened enough to compensate the tension exercised by the shrouds . Secondly, the knots are hardly visible : under the channel and behind the loop of my deadeye chainplate alternative. Another issue I encountered : while proceeding, the paint of the chainplates was peeling off regardless my efforts to use a proper primer coat. Nothing we cannot fix, so no harm done. The edges on the channels were covered by a 1 x 2 mm walnut strip, later on I fixed a small strip of black paper just for aesthetical reasons. The last pic shows the port side that still needs to be done. You may notice I went for a different chimney upon the forecastle.
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The rudder : almost there..... But also I must admit an avoidable error. As I had the "coppering process" still in mind, I thought it would make sense to fix the irons in the rudder area later on. But at present I could have simplified things if I took hold of this previously to the white painting under the waterline. While using masking tape overdye the irons in black grey this would have prevented some trouble, especially when cyanoglue is involved. It took me a while to obtain a result by whereby I can settle although the rudder is still dry fit Also a few pics from previous builds about the matter.
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Another item you may want to replace is the tiller. It's quite visible and fragile. There's eyebolts to be attached, which is a risky business. I'not that enthousiastic about the kit's version : it's rather flat. Besides, research demonstrated this item was way bigger. This attempt was made of a 4mm. ramin dowel . However, and accordingly to internet research, I flattened the "knot" at the end a bit. If availability is no concern, you may want to use ramin dowels instead of walnut. I intend to use ramin dowels also for the masts as it requires no yellow painting. Just my personal taste. How to connect this part with the rudder ? I'll figure something out.... Oh yes,...the swivel guns provided in the kit..... But that's for later
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Thanks for your high praise, Rod. This is certainly the correct place to ask your question, you are very welcome Although imho the real shipwrigts are more likely to be found in the scratch-build section, I'm afraid. Also built Corel Vasa, so we have this in common. The gun carriages are not prefabricated, they are an assemblyprocess of different parts ( see pic below, you can still distinguish the different parts ). I understand that this problem of prefabricated carriages might occur with (early ? ) versions of the HMS Fly Amati kit. Unfortunately, this is also the case with my next project ( Sciabecco Amati 1/60 ) You are quite right to question the size ( and perhaps also the quality )of the guns. I haven't figured out yet how to tackle this issue. The concern of the guns ( wether or not with carriages) and longboat....., well if there's no problem of availability, I can only tell you : go for it ! ( e.g. Vanguard Models,... ). Certainly the metal longboat is indeed asking for alternatives, or at least different approaches. However, I used the photoetched windowframes supplied by the kit. Only the grey paper I fixed behind the plastic provided the effect I was seeking for. Hope this helps. I not, feel free to ask further questions
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Thanks for the info and showing interest. B.E. Well, it is hardly noticeable. The moreover I've painted the edge of the captstans base in flat black color ( kind of a camouflage ). From stern to bow view the capstan is isolated between stairs and gratings and from port to starboard and the other way around...well ratlines and shrouds and probably other rigging will cover this issue completely. I've painted the capstain axe also in black as I was anxious to avoid the red flashy color overall this item. A calculated risk ?
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An in between update. ( part 1 of 2 ) The gratings & capstan. About the latter : this item is very present on the quarterdeck so I decreased the diameter a bit and rounded the edges. Also and as far as I know, the position of the capstan is perpandicular but as the quarterdeck describes a small slope, I bevelled the bas of the capstan a bit. However : this item is not glued yet. I also opted for the gangways above the gun area : a nice feature The gallows are also dry fit and with good reason. In this area there's 2x2 blocks related to the rigging process. Just to avoid accessibility concerns. Some general overviews alongside HMS Diana : the difference in size is just striking.
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Thanks, Bug. Your interest is much appreciated ( as is your buildlog ). Well, you have these nice English/American sayings or expressions, such as "Hold your horses" and that is what I'm going to do right now. Meaning : I'll go back to the instruction manual and oversee the plans....in order to prepare the next stages, outside, while enjoying the weather. Can't do any harm.
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At last, at last...job done. The finishing of the tackles with the loops hinder a bit the clarity or surveyability of the deck. The only way to handle this was to realise the loops as small as possible. The last pic shows a comparison with the first try-outs. Needless to say : be ultraconservative with the cyano.
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