Thunder
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Speedy 1828 by oakheart - from plans drawn by Bill Shoulders in 1972
Hi Tim,
Finally caught up with your build, and it is looking great. However, just wanted to jump in to avoid a potential issue regarding the gunport positions. Are you going to make the deck layout match the gunports? My concern is that the position of the belaying pins is arranged either side of the gunport. You will have to move these aft to match. If you have to do the same with the chain plates, external to the hull, then this will effect the shrouds. You will then have to move the mast back to match. It does then mean the bits and gratings at the base of the mast will need to move. Just wanted to make sure you considered this now rather than find it when you get to the rigging stage.
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Thunder got a reaction from Canute in Cutting strips with Byrnes saw.....Strips start out fine then they thin.
Thanks all, great information. I have the same issue on my Proxxon FET and assumed it was a fault of the saw. However, practice cuts with lime and oak were fine. When started to cut the boxwood, brought specially for my build, had horrible issues. I did make a blade change which helped a little but am limited with choice of blades with the Proxxon.
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Speedy 1828 by oakheart - from plans drawn by Bill Shoulders in 1972
I think that will look better than the regular spaced shrouds and have seen exactly like that in some sources.
I would always try to get the straps down to the wale if possible.
I would still say that this is a good representation of speedy. Items of rig would change through a ships life as captains changed things to try and get a better trim and improve sailing quality.
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Speedy 1828 by oakheart - from plans drawn by Bill Shoulders in 1972
Remember the shrouds do not have to be equally spaced, the first one should be in line with the mast but the others would be spaced tosuit the gunport so can make that gap larger if necessary if would interfere with the gunport lid.
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Speedy 1828 by oakheart - from plans drawn by Bill Shoulders in 1972
Hi,
I am thinking that could possibly get away with just moving the belaying racks and then making sure you space the shrouds / deadeyes so they do not end up in front of the gun port. Looking at mine those belaying racks look a little forward anyway.
The cutter is a nice rig to complete just worth noting that Bill Shoulder got the bowsprit rigging incorrect, i think i mentioned it in my log.
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in Cutting strips with Byrnes saw.....Strips start out fine then they thin.
Thanks all, great information. I have the same issue on my Proxxon FET and assumed it was a fault of the saw. However, practice cuts with lime and oak were fine. When started to cut the boxwood, brought specially for my build, had horrible issues. I did make a blade change which helped a little but am limited with choice of blades with the Proxxon.
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Thunder got a reaction from SighingDutchman in De Zeven Provinciën 1665 by YankeeD - Scale 1:50 - according to drawings by Mr. O. Blom - First wooden scratch ship build
You must have come up against someone poisoned with jealousy. I myself am completely jealous of your skills but would rather use your work for inspiration and to educate me in better ways to perform a task. I will be reviewing your build from the start and take great pleasure from learning from it.
Great subject and great build.
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Thunder got a reaction from oakheart in HM Cutter Speedy 1828 by oakheart - from plans drawn by Bill Shoulders in 1972
Hi Tim,
Finally caught up with your build, and it is looking great. However, just wanted to jump in to avoid a potential issue regarding the gunport positions. Are you going to make the deck layout match the gunports? My concern is that the position of the belaying pins is arranged either side of the gunport. You will have to move these aft to match. If you have to do the same with the chain plates, external to the hull, then this will effect the shrouds. You will then have to move the mast back to match. It does then mean the bits and gratings at the base of the mast will need to move. Just wanted to make sure you considered this now rather than find it when you get to the rigging stage.
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Thunder got a reaction from Canute in Byrnes tablesaw compares with Proxxon FET tablesaw
Proxxon --- as far as I know don't offer a sliding table. I made one and the slot is the width of the blade so no tear out, no backer board needed.
I would love to see your sliding table, can you do a feature on it please?
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in Purchasing Old Wood Kits
Perhaps we should take into account one or two critical factors. Where you live, where kits have come from and where stored. If you consider i have not been able to cut the lawns since September due to it being wet then you could imagine that the atmosphere is damp and wood unlikely to dry out.
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in Purchasing Old Wood Kits
Hi, i have a thing for buying old kits, if you check out my Speedy build this was a kit from the early 70's. It was actually the best strip wood I have worked with so far. The bulkheads were awful, but not due to bad wood, they were poorly cut.
On the other hand i have many new kits. Caldercraft's Chatham's wood was excellent, Caldercraft's Pickle was awful. They replaced the deck planking but the hull planking was brittle and did not hold an edge. To be fair to them, their advice was not to store in a central heated home and have an open source of water in the room for humidity if room is heated. Not sure yet if this helps but had no issues so far with kits since putting an open water bottle in my store.
Of the old kits that i thought the planking was awful, I have looked in the new versions and found not much better. Therefore agree, the choice of wood species is the main issue.
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Thunder got a reaction from Canute in Purchasing Old Wood Kits
Perhaps we should take into account one or two critical factors. Where you live, where kits have come from and where stored. If you consider i have not been able to cut the lawns since September due to it being wet then you could imagine that the atmosphere is damp and wood unlikely to dry out.
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Thunder got a reaction from Canute in Purchasing Old Wood Kits
Hi, i have a thing for buying old kits, if you check out my Speedy build this was a kit from the early 70's. It was actually the best strip wood I have worked with so far. The bulkheads were awful, but not due to bad wood, they were poorly cut.
On the other hand i have many new kits. Caldercraft's Chatham's wood was excellent, Caldercraft's Pickle was awful. They replaced the deck planking but the hull planking was brittle and did not hold an edge. To be fair to them, their advice was not to store in a central heated home and have an open source of water in the room for humidity if room is heated. Not sure yet if this helps but had no issues so far with kits since putting an open water bottle in my store.
Of the old kits that i thought the planking was awful, I have looked in the new versions and found not much better. Therefore agree, the choice of wood species is the main issue.
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Thunder got a reaction from Gregory in Purchasing Old Wood Kits
Perhaps we should take into account one or two critical factors. Where you live, where kits have come from and where stored. If you consider i have not been able to cut the lawns since September due to it being wet then you could imagine that the atmosphere is damp and wood unlikely to dry out.
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in Looking for Aeropiccola Serapis instructions
Hi,
As regards the instructions they are limited as a separate booklet, most are on the drawings, but in Italian. What there should be is a little book which was described as a nautical dictionary. If read it will find it has all the translations from Italian to English of the comments on the drawings.
I disagree with Jaager in a lot of what he has said. The wood is all lime and generally good in all my three Aeropiccola kits. They were, and older kits still are, designed as single planked hulls. Consequently there tends to a be a greater number of bulkheads than you would get with another manufacturer that has designed the kit with second planking. With their Nonsuch kit they also provide preformed bow sections to aid planking. They also had other innovations such as cutting a rabbit at the bows and strengthening rods through the bulkheads for strength and ensure alignment.
Yes, some of their kits were poor but from what i have seen of the Serapis, the Indiscret and Nonsuch these could build into great models, with some care. They do not compare with what Chuck has created recently or with Vanguard models but for their time were ground breaking.
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Thunder got a reaction from navarcus in Looking for Aeropiccola Serapis instructions
Hi,
As regards the instructions they are limited as a separate booklet, most are on the drawings, but in Italian. What there should be is a little book which was described as a nautical dictionary. If read it will find it has all the translations from Italian to English of the comments on the drawings.
I disagree with Jaager in a lot of what he has said. The wood is all lime and generally good in all my three Aeropiccola kits. They were, and older kits still are, designed as single planked hulls. Consequently there tends to a be a greater number of bulkheads than you would get with another manufacturer that has designed the kit with second planking. With their Nonsuch kit they also provide preformed bow sections to aid planking. They also had other innovations such as cutting a rabbit at the bows and strengthening rods through the bulkheads for strength and ensure alignment.
Yes, some of their kits were poor but from what i have seen of the Serapis, the Indiscret and Nonsuch these could build into great models, with some care. They do not compare with what Chuck has created recently or with Vanguard models but for their time were ground breaking.
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Thunder got a reaction from William-Victory in Order of attack for rigging a model (section)
Most modellers find their own way to rig ships that is comfortable to them but if you want it to look correct you need to do it as was done on the real ships as much as possible. This is because the rigging was put over the head of a mast in a certain order. Below is the order i complete my rigging. What i will do, however, is plan each item ahead so as to install rigging blocks when more accessible. If you don't you will not get your fingers in to tie them off.
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Thunder got a reaction from Canute in Recommend me a frigate kit?
I am building the caldercraft Diana at the moment but i would not advise it as a second kit. If I had not already of had it in my stash I would of gone with the Sphinx from Vanguard models. It is still rated as an experienced builder but the build methods and instructions have improved dramatically since the Diana kit was designed.
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Thunder got a reaction from Canute in Question about which Bounty kit to get
Forgot to mention, Keith Julier did do a review of the Amati kit, may be worth getting a copy of that.
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Thunder got a reaction from Canute in Question about which Bounty kit to get
Surprised no one has answered you to date, perhaps Bounty is no longer that popular. Your best bet would be to review builds here before making a decision. One thing i would say, not knowing your level of experience, is that the Bounty hull is not builder friendly.
Having looked quickly for images of both that the Amati version looks more realistic. I have only built one Mantua kit and was not impressed.
Have you considered the Jotika / Caldercraft kit? May be worth a look at. I have this in my stash of kits to build and looks to be a good kit.
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in Recommend me a frigate kit?
I am building the caldercraft Diana at the moment but i would not advise it as a second kit. If I had not already of had it in my stash I would of gone with the Sphinx from Vanguard models. It is still rated as an experienced builder but the build methods and instructions have improved dramatically since the Diana kit was designed.
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in Question about which Bounty kit to get
Forgot to mention, Keith Julier did do a review of the Amati kit, may be worth getting a copy of that.
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in Question about which Bounty kit to get
Surprised no one has answered you to date, perhaps Bounty is no longer that popular. Your best bet would be to review builds here before making a decision. One thing i would say, not knowing your level of experience, is that the Bounty hull is not builder friendly.
Having looked quickly for images of both that the Amati version looks more realistic. I have only built one Mantua kit and was not impressed.
Have you considered the Jotika / Caldercraft kit? May be worth a look at. I have this in my stash of kits to build and looks to be a good kit.
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Thunder got a reaction from JeffT in Recommend me a frigate kit?
I am building the caldercraft Diana at the moment but i would not advise it as a second kit. If I had not already of had it in my stash I would of gone with the Sphinx from Vanguard models. It is still rated as an experienced builder but the build methods and instructions have improved dramatically since the Diana kit was designed.
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Thunder got a reaction from JeffT in Question about which Bounty kit to get
Surprised no one has answered you to date, perhaps Bounty is no longer that popular. Your best bet would be to review builds here before making a decision. One thing i would say, not knowing your level of experience, is that the Bounty hull is not builder friendly.
Having looked quickly for images of both that the Amati version looks more realistic. I have only built one Mantua kit and was not impressed.
Have you considered the Jotika / Caldercraft kit? May be worth a look at. I have this in my stash of kits to build and looks to be a good kit.
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