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moreplovac

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  1. moreplovac
    The galley stack was next to attack. Practicum suggested to use the one that come with a kit; i did not like it so i build one instead. I used some piece of poplar from my previous projects, took measurements from the plan, cut to size and shape it. Happy modeling
  2. moreplovac
    Yes, that was a scary part...
  3. moreplovac
    No much to report today. Just drilling two holes in the deck for masts... Had to make a template to match the angle of the masts. Traced the angle from the plan on transparent paper, glue it on cardboard and cut the cardboard. Then i put a ship on the vise, making sure it sits on it with right angle. The ship was put on bench press with 6mm bore, the vise was moved to match correct angle and hole were drilled. The hole was appr 3cm deep. Happy modeling..
  4. moreplovac
    Yeah, thanks Lou...
  5. moreplovac
    Windlass, part three or how i would call it a final build. Unless i spot some badly build part or completely missed dimension or fall of assembly this will be the final attempt.. So, here it is, final product, attempt #3... So, how did i get here? First get a wood dowel appropriate size, 1 mm wider that needed, cut it in 12cm length piece and with small lathe, shape it to approximate dimensions: middle part was 8mm wide which left me 1mm room while cutting the octagonal lines. The end parts were at 6mm leaving me 1mm for octagonal... Then i marked 8 lines for octagonal shape.. With a small chisel i cut 8 lines to make octagonal shape. Lots of shaping, scratching, sanding... Carved the center sprocket, then paint it in black, electric tape was used to simulate iron bands, small nail was used to shape the wholes on windlass, the whole windlass was dipped into stain and after 30 second extra stain was removed with a bounty.. Two supports (red) were reused from previous attempt; all assembled and ready for a final coat of vanish to seal all together. This step will be done tomorrow when stain is completely dry.. That should be it.. Happy modeling..
  6. moreplovac
    Two center portions were transfered to the piece of wood, cut with knife and sanded to the shape. Tested on the ship... .. and painted in flat red. Center portions of the drum were shaped into octagonal, tiny piece of electric tape cut and assembled to simulate iron bands. Short bath in stain and up to drying location.. It looks better than first one but still not 100% happy. Will see how they all fit together, with drilled holes and all assembled, then will decide.. Happy modeling..
  7. moreplovac
    Thanks Sawdust, good tip...
  8. moreplovac
    Just had to start all over again, this time using poplar (did not have any boxwood in the stock) and testing cuts with table saw. Last time i was doing all by hands and some of octagonal lines were not quite good.. The outcome is still not perfect but i think i will try making this one into full windlass.. Cheers
  9. moreplovac
    Stumbled across this picture from German maritime museum. Right on time. I think i will try to incorporate some details into my windlass. Happy modeling
  10. moreplovac
    Thank you GrandpaPhil and Snow
  11. moreplovac
    Started today on windlass. As with other part i think it is much better to make deck furniture from wood and not to use kit supplied parts. This one is not that bad but i would not use it unless needed... I broke the windlass in few more manageable pieces, which will be glued together once all is completed. Cut dowel to the length bigger that needed; also cut 4 pieces that will be glued together to make two outside pieces. I used mini lathe to make a form; the beginning on windlass is 5mm, the middle is 7mm and other end is also on 5mm. With pencil i marked dimension and start forming it with sanding block (80).. Rough form was made and with 400 sanding block finishing touch was done.. Then i marked 8 lines that will be used as a reference point while making octagonal shape. Then using a #10 knife, i carved basic form; with a file i straighten it and with a #10 knife exposed the octagonal lines a bit more. The #10 knife was used, with a blade rested at 180 degrees on the wood; then with motions like you would sharpen the pencil, i shaved tiny pieces of wood, which made octagonal lines more visible... Then i cut both ends to the correct length... More to come...
  12. moreplovac
    It will make big of a difference at the end. Cheers..
  13. moreplovac
    Hehe, you are right... Thanks
  14. moreplovac
    The pumps are completed. The pumps are made from scratch; first i cut a dowel for a main drum or 'log' a bit longer than needed. Using file and sanding blocks i shaped drums into octagonal shape. The hole was drilled to the top of each pump, wide enough to simulate opening. The hole was darkened with a pencil as those pumps were sometimes lined with lead.. Next i made pump handles... It appears to be easier if you do repetitive work together, like making two handles in bunch then one handle, then pump drum, etc... The shape was marked on the piece of wood, .. shaped with a file and sanding blocks... Small hole was drilled to hold the wire... some more sanding during which i broke 3 handles. Very tiny and fragile items.. A bit of staining was done on handles; actually i was dipping them into stain can, leave stain on for a minute and wipe it with paper.. Bracket for pump handle was next.. these are also tiny and few were broken in the process. Dipped into stain.... Then i stained drums, put a tiny peace of electric tape around each drum to simulate iron bands. Funny that electric tape was not holding well on stained wood so i had to freeze it with drop of cyano glue. Then assembly took place. So here it is. I drilled a small hole on the bottom to put a piece of wire in to make sure pumps will stay on the deck. It took me approximately 4 hrs to build these little parts but the end result is very rewarding... Happy modeling..
  15. moreplovac
    Little binnacle has been completed. Copper nails were used for handles, painted flat black. Eye bolts were attached to the binnacle and hole drilled in the ship deck to host two additional eye bolts. These will be used to attach binnacle to the deck with rigging lines provided in the kit. At least something was used from the box :-). Eye bolts were made using small tool that was provided by one fellow ship builder... Nails were cut to the length of appr. 4mm, the pilot hole was drilled into binnacle and nails were attached. Finished binnacle with copper nails as handles. Eye bolts were assembled and installed in binnacle.. Testing on ship... Then i cut and build two one-step stairs that will be installed later. Cannot mount them now as they will interfere with rest of the work on the ship.. Eye bolts making process.. All gratings were also mounted, ladder to bellow deck also glued in the place. Then i start working on ship pumps, off course will not use kit supplied pumps as they look like... something. Happy modeling..
  16. moreplovac
    Thanks Lou, much appreciated.
  17. moreplovac
    Binnacle.. That little.... Since i dont like kit provided deck furniture and following (not to the letter) Chuck's practicum, i attacked binnacle. Completed one yesterday but was not happy with its look; i cut all parts precise and with no room to correct any mistake. Final result was not quite satisfactory and i decided to make another one. This time i cut parts a bit bigger than needed. Started with legs. Cut two pieces of basswood, longer that needed, glue them together at their ends and with little help of vise and a file, managed to get the shape i was looking for. I shaped both legs together to help in getting identical match. Binnacle cubes cut and assembled, with legs shaped.. Then i cut legs to correct hight and sand binnacle to correct size.. Checking measurement against plan... Semi-complete product.. testing on the ship... .. and compared with yesterday's one. Next, i needed to mask the exterior in prep for painting interior in flat black. Interior painted... I also added 1mm strips around binnacle that will be shaped to represent molding.. From the wooden rod of correct diameter, i cut 2cm dowel i will be using to make a compass. Dowel top was painted in gold and cut to correct size and glued to inside of binnacle. Next, top cover was also installed and three pieces of cardboard, cut in correct size, glued to binnacle. They will represent compartment for lights (as plan indicated). I drilled 4 vent holes on both sides and whole binnacle was painted in flat red, in several thin layers. I think i might need to add one or two more layers, will see tomorrow. Next, will need to add four "drawer handles" - brass nail cut to the length so i can use nail heads as handles. Also two small eye bolts will need to be made.. Happy modeling..
  18. moreplovac
    Yes you are right, i was impatient enough not stain wood ahead..
  19. moreplovac
    Yes, i will see if i can clean glue from those spots somehow; now they are just bothering me too much..
  20. moreplovac
    Will go with stain; will have few other deck items painted in red which should be enough. Thanks
  21. moreplovac
    Yeah, i am leaning towards that as well... Thanks
  22. moreplovac
    Spent some time building a ladder. Copied ladder template from Chuck's practicum, and cut pieces. With the help of hobby saw and tiny file i created mortises for each step. And these are really tiny, compare it with a #10 blade.. Cut all steps and used super glue to put them all together. Completed... A little bit of sanding and at the end the layer of stain. All ready for assembly.. Still thinking should i use red paint for hatches (as done in other build logs) or leave it with stain only as it it on the kit box... Will see..
  23. moreplovac
    More work on gratings.. Must say those are very tiny parts and fingers are not useful tool to work with them. While assembling, i dropped a tiny amount of super-glue to keep them in tact. Cut gratings to a bit more length than needed as i will sand them down to correct size. I took a bit different approach today. First i would cut the gratings, assemble them to approximate dimension of the opening, mark down the correct opening size, sand them, and then assemble planks for hatch opening. For main hatch i did other way around - first made a hatch box and then gratings. Gratings sanded to the correct size and first plank glued on. Second hatch plank.. Third plank.. Compare with hatch box i assembled, before deciding to use other approach. Last plank and start sending. And on the ship.. Looks very nice i must say.. Happy modeling.
  24. moreplovac
    I have ordered few table saw blades for my mini table saw; they have not arrived yet but gratings from Model Shipways have. Oh well, will make my own gratings some times in the near future. For Sultana will use these ones... They will be covering main hatch. Assembly process, cannot wait to get them all together.. Then i marked the main hatch opening that will host gratings and cut them one at a time.. Here they are, ready for assembly. Assembled and ready for sanding for fitting. I put tiny amount of super glue on gratings to keep them together. They fit well on its own but small drop of glue will make my life easier... Sanding is next ... and test fitting... On Sultana and ready for stain. More to come soon.
  25. moreplovac
    While waiting for gratings to arrive, painting of cap rail was chosen as a next action. I will also work on building other deck furniture since i will be replacing all kit provided deck pieces. Painting was done with a small brush and flat black acrylic paint. Happy modeling.

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