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Thanks Floyd, I saw your detailed posting on how to cut but was not sure whether you were cutting from large pieces of lumber, i.e, lumber yard, or using sheets that were pre dimensioned from specialty lumber suppliers for models. I guess I should have realized from the thickness sanding step. I appreciate your laying out your steps for creating planks. For instance, I did not realize that the planks are individually thickness sanded after they are cut from the sheet. I always thought that the sheet was thickness sanded was before cutting the final plank then just finish sanding to smooth. Your steps are another set of procedures for my model building notebook. I will have to start looking at what is available at the local lumber stores. I suspect that it would really reduce the cost of wood. I would have to consider buying a thickness sander in addition to a table saw, but given the price of pre cut wood, that might end up paying for itself... if I learn to use them correctly. (along with the Proxxon scroll saw and wood lathe I just got at an estate sale.) On the advice of many on these forums I am saving up for the Jim Byrnes. The cost of the two tools would be about $1,000. From what I have seen, that would be about the same as buying one precut lumber set for something like a complete Naiad. If the cost of wood from a lumber yard is low enough the tools could pay for themselves... and provide more enjoyment of the hobby. (I am really frustrated with the wood on my current kit.) I will find out more as I continue to look at wood sources. A real concern would be the sawdust. I converted our sunroom to my workshop but for some strange reason, my wife still considers it part of the house! Do you use the vacuum attachments, and if so, how well do they work? Again, Thanks Richard T.

Hi all, had a question about cutting your own strips. Do you start with a "chunk" of wood or do you use pre cut sheets? Thanks, Richard T.

Hi all I just returned from some travels and have been catching up. Christ, I had ordered some Swiss pear and it looks a lot better, although also a lot more expensive. The sources I have looked at have boxwood but I do not see Costello Box. Not sure if these are similar or whether Costello Box is available in the U.S. Janos, Christ, while I could not find the Feast Watson, I have found the Fiebings Black Leather Shoe Dye and will test it. Thanks for the step by step. Crackers, It is possible for me to get some fruitwood at local orchards. We do not have Cherry in Georgia, U.S., (damned red clay) but do have apple and other. (Wonder if Peach would be any good, have tons of that.) I was wondering, how long do you dry the wood and in what environment? Duffer, are box and boxwood different? Brian, I was thinking of using ebony which is available but not sure what you mean by "messy". I appreciate all your comments. I am investigating woods because my next build will be mostly wood finish and I am going to try my hand at scratch. I was thinking of bashing but the thought of paying for the model then replacing its parts seems doesn't sit right. I may get over that once I try to cut out the parts myself rather than using the kit for that. Still have a lot to do on my current build which is my first. Thanks all. Richard T

Looking for opinions of folks who have tried the Model Expo Rope Making tool. Thanks, Richard T

I do not know the answer but, Here are three builds in the "kits build logs in progress" forum. One of these should be able to help. San Juan Nepomuceno by Juan M. Carrasco - San Juan Nepomuceno by kostas_gr - Artesania Latina - San Juan Nepomuceno by augustus -artestina latina - 1/90... Richard T

J, thanks for the update. I appreciate your feedback as I am considering the drill press or the mill. by any chance do you have pictures of the set up as you used it for your various tasks? Richard T.

Chris, Would never have thought of that. does it finish well? Richard T

Janos, Thanks for the tip. I am in the U.S. and when I google "Feast Watson proof tint" I do not see any outlets in the U.S. Richard T

Brian, By "source your own timber" I assume you mean cutting yourself for your own use? Michael, I reviewed your thin cut posting and I have marked it as "follow." I appreciate your taking the time to post this detailed and easy to understand explanation. I will be going through it a number of times. I understand that you were making a really thin cut, but it looks like the waste from the kit was a lot. If I am cutting 1/15 planks it looks like half the wood would end up waste. Is that because of the size of the table saw (10")? My thoughts are that I would only be using the saw for modeling. Do you all think one of the mini saws, i.e., Proxxon or Byrnes, would be better suited to this size work? Also, does anyone have a feel for what the percent savings of "sourcing my own timber" would be over buying hardwood planks? (might help me figure the price range I should look at. They run from 125 to 450 for the Byrnes. Thanks, Richard T.

Chris, What dye do you use to get ebony with swiss pear?

Thanks Toni

Spencer, why don't you list the manufacturer and the model number. Others may be working on that specific kit and would be able to answer. Richard T.

By the way, did you develop the scale plans or use another source? Thanks Richard T.

Thanks for the list Roger. I really like the contrasts your selection provides. That is the way I would like my next build to look. Richard T.

Thanks Barehook, good to know. But, I may not have worded my question clearly. I meant it to refer to producing planks, with a table saw, from sheets or stock, i.e. producing planking strips.

Chuck, Thanks, Richard T

How difficult is it to accurately cut your own planks? I am trying to decide on whether or not to buy a table saw. Part of my motivation is to reduce the cost of pre-cut hardwood strips. I would buy sheets instead of the more expensive strips. I am not talking here about the brand, there are plenty of those discussions on other forums. I am interested in the skill required, techniques, etc. I could not find and existing forum on this topic. If there is one please direct me to it. Thank You, Richard T.

I would like my next build to have a wood finish with only limited painting to highlight certain parts. I am curious about the woods preferred by scratch and bash builders. For example, on a single POB build, what wood do you like for for the planks, the wales, the deck, etc. Richard T.

Jaxboat, You mentioned "... acetone or Isopropanol depending on what glue you used (CA or PVA)." Just to make sure, it is acetone for CA and Isopropanol for PVA? Richard T.

Brian, Thanks, that's what I will do. Richard T.

Thanks Mark Brian, So, I was not sure of the implications of the Proxxon silicon sheet feature. I only see that mentioned on the Proxxon so was not sure if other discs would be compatible with the silicon release or mess it up. Sounds like you use the Proxxon and it works for you. Do you have any specific brands of sanding discs you prefer? Thanks, Richard T.

The sanding disks for the Proxxon TG 125E seem to be kind of expensive compared to others. Not sure if they are specially made to be used with the silicon mounting strip or if they can be used with other brands of 5 inch sanding disks? If yes, what brands do you recommended? Thanks, Richard T

I am up to the section where you stop laying planks and go on to the second layer of wales (just before tree holes.) I see that it shows the wale as one continuous strake. Since it is the topmost layer shouldn't it be cut into planks? Also, since the rabbet is already used for the first layer of wales, should the second just be butted up against the bow stem? I appreciate your input. Thanks, Richard T

Chuck, I think I understand. I will complete four runs to see how it looks and get back to everyone. Richard T.

I am trying to work out what a hull planking plan would look like on the Syren. I understand that planks on a full size ship would not be less than 5 feet or greater than 25 feet. My calculations for the Syren give me the shortest plank at one inch and the longest at 4.5 inches (both rounded out for ease). I am using that spread to figure greatest and least number of bulkheads to include in each plank. If that is correct, the next step is to figure out the staggering of the plank butts. Unlike for deck planking, I do not see anything that describes best practices for staggering on the hull. Should I start at the number of bulkheads that fit 4.5 and then drop the size bulkhead by bulkhead until I reach one inch at the bow? This would give a pretty straight angle of joints. Or should they be staggered, somewhat like the plans for the deck planking show? Also, where shorter planks are necessary, should they always be used at the bow, stern, or in the middle of the strake? Or am I overthinking this. I know it is not necessary to do planking this way on the Syren with its coppering but it seems to be a good opportunity to learn hull planking on a build that will cover up any mistakes. Also, when I am tapering the hull planks it seems easier to taper the whole strake then cut the strake plank by plank rather than cutting each plank and then tapering to fit. The butt joints are coming out a lot closer in size. I appreciate any suggestions. Richard T.