rtropp
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Filling gaps in planks #2....
I have used a product called "Model Lite - a lightweight filler." It is by Deluxe Materials. I can't remember where I got it, probably either Hobbylinc or Amazon. At first, I thought it was too light, i.e., weightless. When wet it was very easy to shape and when it dried it was solid, extremely smooth and easy to sand. It worked well to fill gaps in single planking. It was also good in other areas where there were some gaps, such as a deck cabin. It took airbrushing well, but I did not try staining.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Filling gaps in planks #2....
I have used a product called "Model Lite - a lightweight filler." It is by Deluxe Materials. I can't remember where I got it, probably either Hobbylinc or Amazon. At first, I thought it was too light, i.e., weightless. When wet it was very easy to shape and when it dried it was solid, extremely smooth and easy to sand. It worked well to fill gaps in single planking. It was also good in other areas where there were some gaps, such as a deck cabin. It took airbrushing well, but I did not try staining.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from HardeeHarHar in Filling gaps in planks #2....
I have used a product called "Model Lite - a lightweight filler." It is by Deluxe Materials. I can't remember where I got it, probably either Hobbylinc or Amazon. At first, I thought it was too light, i.e., weightless. When wet it was very easy to shape and when it dried it was solid, extremely smooth and easy to sand. It worked well to fill gaps in single planking. It was also good in other areas where there were some gaps, such as a deck cabin. It took airbrushing well, but I did not try staining.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in water trap/filter for airbrush question
thanks all, now I just have to wait for the new compressor and air brush to arrive.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Canute in water trap/filter for airbrush question
thanks all, now I just have to wait for the new compressor and air brush to arrive.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in water trap/filter for airbrush question
I just bought an airbrush compressor that sits on a 3-liter air tank. It has an air/water filter at the pressure gauge. Should I also use one at the airbrush end of the hose?
thanks
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Izombe
Thanks all,
I guess as I run across wood that looks like it would work I should at least give it a try. It seems to contain "luck of the draw" elements. I found I can't always tell how accurate the pictures depict color and grain.
I shall stick with some of the dealers that are mentioned on the site.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Any experience using Super 'Phatic glue
So, I did some testing and allanyed was spot on. The glue was very helpful when I need to fix an already mounted piece. Sometimes when mounting a difficult part I don't want to have to remove it to add glue. But drying takes forever and it does leak to unintended places. But, for pre-mounted parts it is a real help, just need to wait a while before sanding it back.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Saburo in Brig Eagle by robnbill - 1:48
very nice,
what tools did you use to turn the brass cannon on the wood lathe... I would like to give that try myself.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Any experience using Super 'Phatic glue
I will need to check on the drying issue. I had not noticed it at first but have not tried sanding.
I was checking on diluting a titebond or others like it on this on MSW but seemed to get less than positive responses. That do not seem to have the wicking quality which is what first attracted me to CA thin and then to Super Phatic.
Thanks for the tips.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Canute in Any experience using Super 'Phatic glue
I will need to check on the drying issue. I had not noticed it at first but have not tried sanding.
I was checking on diluting a titebond or others like it on this on MSW but seemed to get less than positive responses. That do not seem to have the wicking quality which is what first attracted me to CA thin and then to Super Phatic.
Thanks for the tips.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from thibaultron in Any experience using Super 'Phatic glue
I experimented with Super Phatic glue, and it seems to work. I used it after adding a wet plank to a number of bulkheads over a very irregular shaped stern. Lots of bending. First the plank was molded to shape by soaking and then added to a number of stern bulkheads with clamps, rubber bands and some nails to form the appropriate shape. Then I added the Super Phatic after the plank dried all the while leaving it on the bulkheads the whole time. I utilized the glue's wicking qualities along the joined plank edges and again at each bulkhead. It seems to have worked pretty well and was a lot quicker and easier to add the glue without removing and replacing the plank.
I am wondering what, if any, are the downsides of using Super 'Phatic that I should consider.
Thanks.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Canute in Swan Plans Available for Pre-Order on SeaWatch
Thanks for the help.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Swan Plans Available for Pre-Order on SeaWatch
Thanks for the help.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Swan Plans Available for Pre-Order on SeaWatch
are these the same as the set of plans that were available in 2014? If not, what is different.
I am considering this for my next build so am curious.
thanks
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rtropp got a reaction from Canute in Swan Plans Available for Pre-Order on SeaWatch
are these the same as the set of plans that were available in 2014? If not, what is different.
I am considering this for my next build so am curious.
thanks
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in 2nd Layer of Planking Glueing. Thinned or Standard wood Glue?
While I use mostly PVA there are times when doing complex joins or following lousy plans that I may have to deconstruct and do it again. In those moments of doubt, I will use CA so that I can take the join apart with acetate to avoid causing problems with other joins nearby.
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in electric / battery pin nailer
Thank you all for your responses. They were very helpful. It does not appear that anyone has tried an electronic Nailer vs push Nailer. I'm guessing there is a darn good reason. So I will continue to use rubber bands and modified bulldog clips.
Richard
by the way, in answer to your question this is a single planking that will be painted.
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rtropp got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Sal,
Looking great. I like the way you fabricated the pieces. Very sharp.
I found that if I did not have the drill bits with high rpm they would break. At first I was working very slowly but went through too many bits until I got some good advice. High speed, slow feed. Also, use an awl or similar to not only mark the hole but also create a slight indent to guide the drill bit. keep the piece on a hard surface while marking it to make sure it does not bend.
I went through copper like crazy but finally figured it out. I put the copper ring on the gudgeon on the inside of the bend. I had seen some like that but putting it on the outside looks like it makes more sense. Its a good idea to dry fit the pieces to see how much distance there is between the rudder and the sternpost. I think mine had a little too much space between them but did not look too bad.
Right now my ship club has a group build going on. It is the 18th century longboat and to make it interesting I have it at double the size and working it as a scratch build. I plan to switch between it and the Syren as soon as I get the longboat planks cut.
I look forward to following along with your build.
Richard.
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Looking for info on scroll saws.
GRSX, wondered how often you use the tilt table?
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rtropp got a reaction from Canute in Looking for info on scroll saws.
GRSX, wondered how often you use the tilt table?
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Copper Tape vs Plates
The links above will help tremendously, especially the jig for stamping the plates. One lesson I learned the hard way is that any finger prints, grease, dirt, etc. will cause sticking problems with copper tape, if not right away then eventually. I carefully washed my hands every time I returned to the coppering process. At times I actually wore white collectors type gloves, but the cotton ones can get fuzz on the plates so I used the nylon.
Richard.
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rtropp got a reaction from allanyed in Clarification of wolding for the Victory Cross Section
Allan,
I appreciate the help.
I have obtained a copy of Lee's book and it is going to be very helpful as I try to work my way through masts and rigging.
Thanks,
Richard
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