rtropp Posted June 9, 2022 Share #1 Posted June 9, 2022 I am not having a great deal of success with push pins (arthritis). Any thoughts on using an electric or battery powered pin nailer? I would use it for planking or other similar, temporary tacking rather than one of the push hammers such as that on micromark. If yes is anyone able to recommend one? Thanks, Richard Quote RichardMember: The Nautical Research Guild Atlanta Model Shipwrights Current build: Syren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanyed Posted June 9, 2022 Share #2 Posted June 9, 2022 Nails are not needed if the planks are properly pre-shaped. Consider studying the planking tutorial by David Antscherl in the Articles data base here at MSW and watch the four videos that Chuck Passaro made on proper planking techniques. Allan Ryland Craze, mtaylor and Bob Cleek 3 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted June 9, 2022 Share #3 Posted June 9, 2022 3 hours ago, rtropp said: I am not having a great deal of success with push pins (arthritis). Any thoughts on using an electric or battery powered pin nailer? I would use it for planking or other similar, temporary tacking rather than one of the push hammers such as that on micromark. If yes is anyone able to recommend one? Thanks, Richard Is this for the first layer of planks? Would a nailer with a rounded head be a better option maybe? I'm just thinking it would sit comfortably in the palm of your hand. This is a ModelCraft nailer. mtaylor and chris watton 2 Quote SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS. KEEP IT REAL! On the bench: HMS Indefatigable - 1794 (production prototype), Vanguard Models - 1:64. On Hold: HMS Winchelsea Double Capstan - Syren Ship Models - 1:48 Finished US Baltimore Armed Privateer Schooner Grecian 1812 (prototype) - Vanguard Models - 1:64 'Zulu' fishing boat, Vanguard Models - 1:64 Fifie' fishing boat, Vanguard Models - 1:64 HMS Flirt 1782, Vanguard Models - 1:64. Duchess of Kingston c.1780 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 HMS Sphinx 1775, Vanguard Models - 1:64 ERYCINA - Plymouth Ketch-Rigged Trawler 1882, Vanguard Models - 1:64. 'Nisha' - The Brixham 'Mumble-Bee' - Vanguard Models 1:64 'Saucy Jack' fishing boat - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Ranger 'Barking Fish Carrier' - 1864 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Indeterminate: Tender Avos - Master Korabel - 1:72. H.M.S. Victory (production prototype) - Amati - 1:64. HMS Granado 1742 (cross section) - CAFModel - 1:48 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted June 9, 2022 Share #4 Posted June 9, 2022 (edited) Brute force nailing has worked for a long time in full size construction. This is usually done with softwood that has enough air space to mostly accommodate the increase in volume. This strictly friction hold is probably not wise with hardwood at full size and a totally bad idea at miniature scale. I suggest first drilling a hole with a diameter just slightly less than the diameter of the brass nail. A test will determine just how much less. If the receptor is plywood, it is likely end grain is involved. End grain makes for a very poor bond. With plywood molds, the outer edge may act more reliably if it is seriously primed with PVA ( with no excess ) a few days before anything else is done to it. If the tool applying force requires serious force from you, the receptor hole is too small. If the nail wants to bend, the receptor hole is too small. If an electrical hammer tool is anything but overkill, the receptor hole is too small. The cylinder type push tool is a poor choice. The MM plyer push pin tool is a better choice. A good quality curved Kelly hemostat is a better choice. If the nail is to remain, dipping the nail in 90% PVA - for hardwood or 100% PVA - for plywood may work in your favor. Edited June 9, 2022 by Jaager Bob Cleek and mtaylor 2 Quote NRG member 45 years Current: HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 ship - timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtropp Posted June 13, 2022 Author Share #5 Posted June 13, 2022 (edited) Thank you all for your responses. They were very helpful. It does not appear that anyone has tried an electronic Nailer vs push Nailer. I'm guessing there is a darn good reason. So I will continue to use rubber bands and modified bulldog clips. Richard by the way, in answer to your question this is a single planking that will be painted. Edited June 13, 2022 by rtropp mtaylor 1 Quote RichardMember: The Nautical Research Guild Atlanta Model Shipwrights Current build: Syren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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