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DocRob

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Everything posted by DocRob

  1. DocRob
    Thank you Ken, I will take my time and add more internal components for further evaluation. This is a make or break issue and I will not rush here. Cheers Rob
  2. DocRob
    Well, it was about time, to see how the body, hood and doors will fit to the chassis. I cleaned the excellent casted body parts and drilled all the needed holes and joined the hood to the chassis. There are cast metal hinges and the hood will be openable. When adding the body, which is not screwed on for now, I got what I feared, a gap, the hood being to high, because the air funnels don´t have enough room under the hood. I was prepared, as Pooh described the same problem in his YouTube build video. It looks a bit worse on the pics than it is in reality, because, I can lift the back of the body slightly. I inserted the doors on their metal hinges and found the right one fitting too low and the left one was ok. I´m close to the body painting stage and the fit issues have to be solved thorough and now, so next is analyzing, what to do best. Cheers Rob
  3. DocRob
    I will join you in the backseat, as I have the early model Halberstadt and plan to build her with a very demanding paintjob. Have fun with the surely great WNW kit. Cheers Rob
  4. DocRob
    Beautifully done, Dave. Your Spitfire looks very clean painted and finished, like you had it planned with a museum`s exhibits look. Cheers Rob
  5. DocRob
    Sorry for being late, I had the same issue, the bowsprit interfering with the figurehead, but I didn´t glue the figurehead in place. It needed some tweaking, but finally, I inserted a piece of wood under the bowsprit, where it passes the hull, which steepened the angle a bit. Components like the figurehead, I glue permanently into place, after all the masting and rigging is done. Same goes for the ships boat, where only the supports where glued onto the deck. I try to keep as much wiggle room for rigging and save the delicate components for last. Cheers Rob
  6. DocRob
    Thank you Craig, when all is forced into it´s place, it start to look good . You can´t imagine the touch up work, I don´t know, how often, I resprayed or brushed some damaged black areas. Cheers Rob
  7. DocRob
    Looking absolutely fantastic. The benefit of classic cars is, a lot of the innards stay visible, where you have to hide your precious work. Anyway, I love your carbon fiber work, never heard of that method, but will brain store it, as CF-decals can be also a pain. Cheers Rob
  8. DocRob
    Progress is slowly due to off bench issues and a healthy dose of sports every day, trailrunning, surfing or swimming and mountainbiking, to get the head free. Nonetheless, I finished the rear suspension, brakes and drive shafts. My normal process with MFH kits is, select parts for the next step, cleanup and drill parts, priming and finally airbrushing, before the real fun begins, assembly. This time, it was not so much fun, unfortunately. All parts mount to the outer suspension part, which later accepts the wheel. Somehow this was impossible and I identified the drive shafts as too long. I have no idea, if this was my fault, but the main shaft leading to the differential was also to long. It needed a bit of metal surgery to get everything to fit and there are some touchups to be made. I also started with the pedals, which means, interior is next. Of course, there will be hydraulic lines later from the pedals cylinders. Cheers Rob
  9. DocRob
    Help is coming, Keith. Cheers Rob
  10. DocRob
    Thanks Bob and I have not given up on the Duchess of Kingston, but have other projects to finish. The DoK is my first real wooden ship build and due to the quality of the kit, it was surprisingly straight forward until I entered the rigging stage. I like busy looking decks and thought, the addition of a boat would exactly work that way. Construction of the little thing was not the easiest, but I like the look of the finished boat on deck. I also have the Sphinx kit on my shelf and was really happy to hear, Chris is planning on sets of printed boats for her. Please feel free, to equip your DoK with a boat as well. I really like to see, how yours is looking finally. Cheers Rob
  11. DocRob
    Thank you OC, I was sometimes about to kick her into life. But the tank didn´t hold the fuel . Cheers Rob
  12. DocRob
    Thank you Tim and sorry for the late answer. MFH motorcycle kits are extremely detailed out of the box, so there is no need for extra detailing. I loved your Triumph build though, a completely different breed of kit, but with a very beautiful outcome. Cheers Rob
  13. DocRob
    Due to illness and passing of my beloved dog, I haven´t been attending here lately. I have to get back to normal somehow and continued a bit with the Cobra, when time and mood allowed. I added the front cooling section, a fairly large and detailed affair. After that, it was time to mount the missing parts of the front suspension and braking system. The large venting tubes were sprayed with Tamiya LP brown metallic and then sanded over the risen parts for effect. Fit was very good, but I had to re-drill tiny PE parts again, as either the bolts (part 308) are too wide or the holes to small, annoying. Another disturbing issue is, there are wires or tubes, where there is no mention, where they lead to. You have to search the hole manual for a fit, but some are not shown. The manual of the Crocker motorcycle always stated the section of the manual, where you could see the other connecting side, but that´s not the case here. I think long and thorough, before altering the building sequence from the manual, but decided to add the tube framing before the cooler section, to have more wiggle room. The part around the engine proved to be a bit delicate, the more complex rear part was easy in comparison. The engine and drive shaft is now permanently built in and I´m ready for the rear suspension now. The chassis is quite heavy now and I will add spacers to relieve the suspension. Cheers Rob
  14. DocRob
    Just a tiny update, while I prepare the cooler parts and some internal framework. If you wonder, why MFH kits are special, then look for this magnificently casted white metal part. genius and madness are sometime close, as you have to replicate four hose clamps from steel PE strips with the screw parts being tinies casted parts . Cheers Rob
  15. DocRob
    Thank you Craig, the kits are so good, that they motivate you, to even tackle the hardest obstacles. A well thought through building sequence is the key with these kits. Cheers Rob
  16. DocRob
    Sorry for the OT, Greg, but when I was a kid, I once visited the old Wiking factory in Berlin Steglitz, as it was near to my home then. They produced only cars by that time, If I remember correct. My father had a huge amount of these metal cast ships and a few in Plastic. Only the Queen Mary survived until today in my possession. Cheers Rob
  17. DocRob
    What a cool project Greg, love it, specially with the sci-fi background. I have a flatbed Tempo from MiniArt in my stash and plan to build it soon, but my, never would I have had such a great idea for presenting it. Cheers Rob
  18. DocRob
    Wow, that´s a fantastic build you finished there. I only now stumbled into the log and have to dig a bit further, but what you have achieved looks fantastic in every aspect. I liked the front pic especially with the perfect coppering showing. Cheers Rob
  19. DocRob
    Thank you Alan, at least, the engine and front suspension will be visible under the large openable hood. Cheers Rob
  20. DocRob
    I am shipping some difficult waters lately, not with the kit though and that´s why I made myself sparse. Nonetheless, some progress with the mighty Cobra. Having thought, everything would build up easier than the engine was partly untrue. The chassis as the central element has so many parts to add, that you need a lot of patience and discipline to get it right. Every hole - and there are many - needs to be drilled with the proper diameter. To achieve this, you have to identify the various parts or sub assemblies through the hole manual and understand, how it joins and what is used for joining, nuts, bolts, screws, pegs, whatever. Finally, I build up the suspension arms and completed the front axle and tubing with a real metal leaf spring. Steerable wheels are not planned with the kit. I made some mistakes on the rear end with the differential housing, but managed to correct that without too much damage. Again Tamiya LP semi matte black proved to be the perfect weapon of choice for the black chassis parts. The engine is only loosely attached for now. Cheers Rob
  21. DocRob
    Three weeks ago, I considered buying this kit for a very good price from Japan, but hesitated, as I don´t like the original car too much. It just doesn´t have the ingredients of a classic to my eye. Nonetheless, I´m sure you will build a beauty out of this kit and I will follow your progress with the Porsche. Cheers Rob
  22. DocRob
    Today, I reached the first real milestone, finishing the engine and transmission. The ignition wiring was a bit delicate and needed a lot of CA to proper glue everything together. Using tiny rubber connectors seemed not to be the best idea from MFH to my eye. The provided wire is very rigid, which helped to pre bend each single wire before gluing them in. Now Tamiya have a look, here is something to learn. the belt on the front of the engine is black adhesive tape over cast iron wheels, looks way better, than Tamiya´s rough cast parts on the 1/12 kits I knew. The transmission housing is made of a mix of resin and metal parts, with white metal gear shifting rods added. The manual suggested steel color for the housing, but I went with metallic grey, to have a cast iron appearance. I read, later modified or rebuild chassis got an aluminum casing, but the original was cast iron. So much for weight reduction . Cheers Rob
  23. DocRob
    Thank you Craig and Yves. the engine is a piece of beauty with all the detail, but it´s also hard to get together in parts, but what´s modeling without a bit of a challenge . The oil filter was primed and then sprayed gloss read. After the third pass with the airbrush, the edges still were a bit translucent and I decided to let it like that, to generate a bit of depth the cheap way. Cheers Rob
  24. DocRob
    The engine got near finished, lacking the ignition wiring and the drive belts in front. To mount all the carburetor parts into the tub was extremely difficult, done by the manual, it would have been impossible. I spare you the details, but you should put in the four carburetor blocks at the same time, only connected by a fragile steering rod and then add the coil spring mechanism with no wiggle room at all. It took some thinking and manipulating of parts to get it right. The carburetor housings were beforehand accentuated with black panel liner. I also added some decals onto engine parts. Cheers Rob
  25. DocRob
    Today, I prepared all the carburetor parts and finished assembling the first pair, which consists of almost thirty parts. The inox pipe in the middle of the funnel was pretty rigid. It had to be cut from a tube and the manual suggests rolling it under a sharp blade. I tried, but no success. I took out my mini mitre and razor saw and managed to cut eight parts, while loosing all the teeth on the blade. Again the holes on the PE parts were to small, to accept the bolts and needed to be re drilled. Pretty annoying, given it´s not brass, but very rigid stainless steel. I also added the distributor, where tiny rods of steel rod are glued into each connector for accepting the tiny rubber isolators. These needed to be drilled wit a 0,3 mm bit to later (hopefully) accept the ignition wiring. Cheers Rob

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