Jaager

I checked on Amazon.   AM Arrowmax  offers a small spectrum  of variations,  none of which intersect with my needs. Mostly it is mutually exclusive for the 50-80 wire gauge drill bit function.  Speeds and tool attachment are discordant. The models with a chuck that allows infinite diameter bits do not have the speeds that I require.  The ones with the speed have a fixed size insert.  There is even one with 10,000 to 30,000 RPM if burning a hole instead of drilling one is an aim.
 
The drill bit sets with a fixed size base are usually carbide - not HSS.  Most of what we do involves the possibility of "Parkinson-like" twitches.  HSS has flex, carbide does not.
 
Reading the reviews - red flags - lots of red flags - the quality of the materials and the gauges of the wires - I fear planned obsolescence and short term obsolescence at that.
 
 

@tom q vaxy  Do you have a power saw?  If so, why not use Pine?
2x4's are less expensive.  Home improvement and builder's supplies outlets have 1.5x3.5 studs (2x4)  and 0.75x3.5 (1x4) furring strips.
 
At Home Depot it could be Pine or Spruce or Fir  - go for Pine, no sap,  minimum knots
 
Pine does not roll, crush, or tear like Balsa

I checked on Amazon.   AM Arrowmax  offers a small spectrum  of variations,  none of which intersect with my needs. Mostly it is mutually exclusive for the 50-80 wire gauge drill bit function.  Speeds and tool attachment are discordant. The models with a chuck that allows infinite diameter bits do not have the speeds that I require.  The ones with the speed have a fixed size insert.  There is even one with 10,000 to 30,000 RPM if burning a hole instead of drilling one is an aim.
 
The drill bit sets with a fixed size base are usually carbide - not HSS.  Most of what we do involves the possibility of "Parkinson-like" twitches.  HSS has flex, carbide does not.
 
Reading the reviews - red flags - lots of red flags - the quality of the materials and the gauges of the wires - I fear planned obsolescence and short term obsolescence at that.
 
 

Where did the 3D model come from?
Can you contact the one in possession of it?
You want about 12  X-Y cross sections at known positions.  0 rotation
You want 1  X-Z   0 rotation
If you chose the more sane option of a plane view lift model
You want Y-Z slices at about 1/4"  intervals at your model's scale. 
 
If you go with a mold plug,  the 12 (or more) cross sections can be the exact plug shapes.
Hold the plug sections in place using Bamboo dowels and each can be removed individually when their job is done.
If you use a new cotton pillow case and Titebond III in multi layers as the hull - Saran Wrap over the plug will void the sticking problem,
 

@tom q vaxy  Do you have a power saw?  If so, why not use Pine?
2x4's are less expensive.  Home improvement and builder's supplies outlets have 1.5x3.5 studs (2x4)  and 0.75x3.5 (1x4) furring strips.
 
At Home Depot it could be Pine or Spruce or Fir  - go for Pine, no sap,  minimum knots
 
Pine does not roll, crush, or tear like Balsa

@tom q vaxy  Do you have a power saw?  If so, why not use Pine?
2x4's are less expensive.  Home improvement and builder's supplies outlets have 1.5x3.5 studs (2x4)  and 0.75x3.5 (1x4) furring strips.
 
At Home Depot it could be Pine or Spruce or Fir  - go for Pine, no sap,  minimum knots
 
Pine does not roll, crush, or tear like Balsa

It is also possible that knowledge and lessons learned give you the power and determination to persevere , when not having that chip would have lead to the easy path.
If you did it twice, that would be troubling.   At least you are not a song writer who signed over the rights to a song whose royalties could have supported you for the rest of your life.

The situation is probably even worse.  The veneer has a high probability of being rotary cut.  Think of a blade producing a continuous sheet of wood that resembles paper towels coming off of a roll.   The wood came from a curved environment and will always "want" to go back to that cupped conformation.  Wetting, pressing, ironing will just be a futile fight against Mother Nature.
Even at a distance, that hideous yellow stuff looks like crap.  It will likely not be the joy to work that an appropriate species is.
It appears that the ZHL episode was not the aberration that I was hoping it was.  

For what it's worth, I would never use basswood for anything but filler.  When I was working on the NRG planking half hull, I had alot of problems with the basswood planking.  I switched to yellow cedar and was much happier.  It is relatively inexpensive and soft like basswood, but slightly harder.  I find it works better than BW and finishes VERY nicely.

Sweet Cherry Prunus avium is more dense than Black Cherry Prunus serotina.
Only birds eat the fruit of Black Cherry as far as I know.  It is mostly the stone, so eating it would be more work than it is worth.  It is used to make wild cherry syrup - an old vehicle for compounded Rx liquids - mainly pediatric.  The syrup is made from the bark, not the fruit.
I do not consider Black Cherry wood to be significantly hard.  It is easy to work and serious sanding can get you into trouble much more quickly than with Hard Maple.
Black Cherry is not very far up my list of wood species for fine detail carving.

Sweet Cherry Prunus avium is more dense than Black Cherry Prunus serotina.
Only birds eat the fruit of Black Cherry as far as I know.  It is mostly the stone, so eating it would be more work than it is worth.  It is used to make wild cherry syrup - an old vehicle for compounded Rx liquids - mainly pediatric.  The syrup is made from the bark, not the fruit.
I do not consider Black Cherry wood to be significantly hard.  It is easy to work and serious sanding can get you into trouble much more quickly than with Hard Maple.
Black Cherry is not very far up my list of wood species for fine detail carving.

I followed your wonderlandmodels link - clicked models and kits -  so much junk! - then checked the Billings isolating factor on the left and Torborg is top row at the right column.
It also looks clinker - the point is that it is an open boat.   - Rowing or single mast,  a boat is the best chance for completion.
 
The attrition rate for those attempting a first time wooden vessel and even going the extra step of doing it with a log is so high here that I have the conclusion -  it is almost impossible to start with a kit that is too simple. 
 
Most - probably pretty much all of us - start with plastic. 
I blame a large portion of  the high abandonment rate as  involving those who were serious about plastic and tried wood thinking that it is the same process with a different material.  The whole process is so different that it is like a whole other planet.   The unrealistic expectations about what help the instructions will provide and it being fabrication rather than the simple straight forward assembly of plastic leading to frustration and anger.   I have seen no exit interviews to support this proposition.
A wooden ship model is not one single process.  It is a series of subunits, each of which is a model unto itself. 
For all of us, our muse and our inspiration comes and goes.   The larger, the more complex the model,  the higher the probability is that the builder will not be there when the muse returns.  This is more likely with freshmen rather than seniors and grad students.  Nobody ever graduates.

I followed your wonderlandmodels link - clicked models and kits -  so much junk! - then checked the Billings isolating factor on the left and Torborg is top row at the right column.
It also looks clinker - the point is that it is an open boat.   - Rowing or single mast,  a boat is the best chance for completion.
 
The attrition rate for those attempting a first time wooden vessel and even going the extra step of doing it with a log is so high here that I have the conclusion -  it is almost impossible to start with a kit that is too simple. 
 
Most - probably pretty much all of us - start with plastic. 
I blame a large portion of  the high abandonment rate as  involving those who were serious about plastic and tried wood thinking that it is the same process with a different material.  The whole process is so different that it is like a whole other planet.   The unrealistic expectations about what help the instructions will provide and it being fabrication rather than the simple straight forward assembly of plastic leading to frustration and anger.   I have seen no exit interviews to support this proposition.
A wooden ship model is not one single process.  It is a series of subunits, each of which is a model unto itself. 
For all of us, our muse and our inspiration comes and goes.   The larger, the more complex the model,  the higher the probability is that the builder will not be there when the muse returns.  This is more likely with freshmen rather than seniors and grad students.  Nobody ever graduates.

I followed your wonderlandmodels link - clicked models and kits -  so much junk! - then checked the Billings isolating factor on the left and Torborg is top row at the right column.
It also looks clinker - the point is that it is an open boat.   - Rowing or single mast,  a boat is the best chance for completion.
 
The attrition rate for those attempting a first time wooden vessel and even going the extra step of doing it with a log is so high here that I have the conclusion -  it is almost impossible to start with a kit that is too simple. 
 
Most - probably pretty much all of us - start with plastic. 
I blame a large portion of  the high abandonment rate as  involving those who were serious about plastic and tried wood thinking that it is the same process with a different material.  The whole process is so different that it is like a whole other planet.   The unrealistic expectations about what help the instructions will provide and it being fabrication rather than the simple straight forward assembly of plastic leading to frustration and anger.   I have seen no exit interviews to support this proposition.
A wooden ship model is not one single process.  It is a series of subunits, each of which is a model unto itself. 
For all of us, our muse and our inspiration comes and goes.   The larger, the more complex the model,  the higher the probability is that the builder will not be there when the muse returns.  This is more likely with freshmen rather than seniors and grad students.  Nobody ever graduates.

I followed your wonderlandmodels link - clicked models and kits -  so much junk! - then checked the Billings isolating factor on the left and Torborg is top row at the right column.
It also looks clinker - the point is that it is an open boat.   - Rowing or single mast,  a boat is the best chance for completion.
 
The attrition rate for those attempting a first time wooden vessel and even going the extra step of doing it with a log is so high here that I have the conclusion -  it is almost impossible to start with a kit that is too simple. 
 
Most - probably pretty much all of us - start with plastic. 
I blame a large portion of  the high abandonment rate as  involving those who were serious about plastic and tried wood thinking that it is the same process with a different material.  The whole process is so different that it is like a whole other planet.   The unrealistic expectations about what help the instructions will provide and it being fabrication rather than the simple straight forward assembly of plastic leading to frustration and anger.   I have seen no exit interviews to support this proposition.
A wooden ship model is not one single process.  It is a series of subunits, each of which is a model unto itself. 
For all of us, our muse and our inspiration comes and goes.   The larger, the more complex the model,  the higher the probability is that the builder will not be there when the muse returns.  This is more likely with freshmen rather than seniors and grad students.  Nobody ever graduates.

Give a thought to something about the size of of Billings'  Torborg. 
With no experience with Billings as far as quality,  a search for a log that might provide the desired data came up empty.  A log by you would cut new ground.
A schooner is not a boat. A boat can be quick and dirty,  and if done using quality materials :  A finished small subject using one of the larger scales and the completed model living in a case on a shelf near you => confidence  and inspiration.   The more you bounce around here, the more background gained about what is of interest -  and how involved a specific kit really is.
As far as real quality wood materials that are a joy to work rather than a fight,  options are fairly limited - for example  Syren,  Vanguard, 3rd party sawmill sourced substitution, you being your own sawmill.

Give a thought to something about the size of of Billings'  Torborg. 
With no experience with Billings as far as quality,  a search for a log that might provide the desired data came up empty.  A log by you would cut new ground.
A schooner is not a boat. A boat can be quick and dirty,  and if done using quality materials :  A finished small subject using one of the larger scales and the completed model living in a case on a shelf near you => confidence  and inspiration.   The more you bounce around here, the more background gained about what is of interest -  and how involved a specific kit really is.
As far as real quality wood materials that are a joy to work rather than a fight,  options are fairly limited - for example  Syren,  Vanguard, 3rd party sawmill sourced substitution, you being your own sawmill.

It drys to a hard shell.   It is used to protect steel tables and tools from humidity produced rusting.  So it will not be a sticky dust magnet.  It also does not contain trace amounts of insect digestive enzymes or anything to allow hydrogen ions for to be acidic.
 
Plastic polymer line IS a shell.  There is nothing about it that needs a wax coating of any kind.

Use Renaissance (conservators') wax.

Centurion was a "modified" 1719 Establishment 60 gun.  The "modification"  was to increase the breadth by 1 foot.
The NMM has the original Allin design for sale as a print 1:48  ZAZ1688  - it is pretty beat up.
There is also a redrawn plan by I think  Fredrik Henrik af Chapman the first naval architect that is cleaner and has more detail (stern)  ZAZ 1689 also a print 1:48
 
 

Find a post of the person of interest.  Placing the cursor over the name or the cartouche opens a window.  In the window is a link:  Find Content.
Click that a scroll the list.  On the entries where the person is the author of the post, check to see if it is a build log.   Not efficient, but it is through. 

Centurion was a "modified" 1719 Establishment 60 gun.  The "modification"  was to increase the breadth by 1 foot.
The NMM has the original Allin design for sale as a print 1:48  ZAZ1688  - it is pretty beat up.
There is also a redrawn plan by I think  Fredrik Henrik af Chapman the first naval architect that is cleaner and has more detail (stern)  ZAZ 1689 also a print 1:48
 
 

It is also possible that knowledge and lessons learned give you the power and determination to persevere , when not having that chip would have lead to the easy path.
If you did it twice, that would be troubling.   At least you are not a song writer who signed over the rights to a song whose royalties could have supported you for the rest of your life.

The situation is probably even worse.  The veneer has a high probability of being rotary cut.  Think of a blade producing a continuous sheet of wood that resembles paper towels coming off of a roll.   The wood came from a curved environment and will always "want" to go back to that cupped conformation.  Wetting, pressing, ironing will just be a futile fight against Mother Nature.
Even at a distance, that hideous yellow stuff looks like crap.  It will likely not be the joy to work that an appropriate species is.
It appears that the ZHL episode was not the aberration that I was hoping it was.  

I have an original version of the Dobson   J never found a way to get satisfactory work out of it.
The whole unit wants to move and rock when the blade is being used.  After your comment, I can see that it being fixed to a large enough base solves that problem. It does greatly increase the real estate occupied by the device though. 
The blade is inside a sleeve and held vertical by two plastic screws - and I have not been successful in finding the sweet spot between a wobble and too much friction for the blade to slide easily.  The grab helps cause the sliding and rocking.
The stock wants to  move back and forth with the blade.  The brass wires for a hold down are too flimsy.
It requires four hands.   If fixed to a base, it is then down to three hands.
I am not sure that razor saws models that allow for just the steel blade to be replaced are thin enough to fit the sleeve.  This important because I have come to prefer a cut being on the pull stroke instead of the push stroke.