Jaager

Exactly this and for me, a momentary foot switch.  I drill a lot of holes in the same board, so I have one hand for the leaver, one hand to position the work, and I do not want the spinning to start until the bit tip is in the divot.

This is the old style marking gauge:

 
 
 
Replace the steel scribing point with a section of a 2mm  HB mechanical pencil lead

Using scrap wood stock and a chisel a miniature version is easy to fabricate.
 
 

I did not see a log with the deck being laid in process.  It looks like there is a one piece sub deck on top of the molds and individual planks are laid on top.
A deck curve should be easy to add.  Use actual deck beams.  Now the thickness would be much less than an actual deck beam.  The middle would be the thickness of the deck crown,  At the tops of the frames.  At the side, the thickness would feather to zero.  The wider this pseudo beam the happier you will be.
This crowned deck would be done using- a shim that is an arc, actually,  The old How To Build A Ship Model books  show to get an arc or an ellipse over a distance.
 
For the deck - to avoid creating a cartoon by over doing it: 
A touch of walnut aqueous stain or walnut acrylic paint added to the PVA on the plank edges should give you a scale appropriate caulking seam. 
No trunnels.  
Study up in planking butt shifts. 
A 4 butt shift with just a hint of a seam - not a wide -poke you in the eye bowling alley gutter seam. 
The grain makes doing a scratch for a cross plank seam difficult to pull off.   I wonder if one of those ultra thin saws made from a razor blade would leave an even channel  - not deep and filled with walnut PVA would do it?

I would place money on the compounds that polymerize - the vinyl and acrylic components - have one chemical company as their origin.  It is probably a toxic and hazardous process not cost effective to replicate in multiple locations.  The gemisch that is the commercial product  probably has a few more manufacturers but not as many as there are products.   Some are just rebranded.  If two companies have products in the same shaped dispenser, they probably come off of the same line. A line that forks just before the labeling machines.
 
PVA when polymerized looks like intertwined fungal hyphae.  The thinner the zone of just vinyl chains between two meeting surfaces, the stronger the bond.   Clamping pressure = bond strength.  The limiting factor is the amount of pressure the wood fibers can resist before they crush.
 
If a POB build has molds that are plywood,  it would probably be prudent to prime the areas that are end grain with pushed in and surface wiped PVA.  Let it cure and then bond the planking.

I used Franklin pre-mixed Hide glue as a reversible glue.   It holds too well the way I applied it.
I coated both surfaces.  I used tolerances that were too exact.
Hide glue is a protein.  Hot ethanol will denature it and have it curl into small balls.  It would have been exactly what I want - if there was room for the hot ethanol to penetrate the glue joint.
 
Hide glue is probably what the pre- 20th century models were assembled with.   If your goal is a 100-200 year lifespan it should serve.
The Franklin and Old Brown versions are convenient but the high percentage that is water is a worry.
The glue pot hot dissolved flakes has much less water and would probably be the wise option.  Offering a wide choice of critter origins for relative strength.
It is however a witches brew process that takes addition time and skill before the actual wood joining step can begin.  This lack of convenience is a difficult hurdle to justify when compared to just applying a bleb of Titebond II spreading it as a complete monolayer on both meeting surfaces.
 
About Duco -  it probably helps to read the directions.  Totally coat both meeting areas - let dry - apply a wet layer and get together really sorta fast.  It does hold better.

Wrong glue.
PVA  - yellow carpenters glue  Titebond II if a display model  Titebond III if it is RC
 
No glue is going to bond all that well to end grain. 
Scrap wood - tongue depressors or Birch coffee stirs can be scabbed on both faces of the plywood molds where the planking bonds to widen and have better grain.

If there is a lamp assembly store near you - if that is still a thing - hollow brass cylinders of various sizes and shapes?

I would place money on the compounds that polymerize - the vinyl and acrylic components - have one chemical company as their origin.  It is probably a toxic and hazardous process not cost effective to replicate in multiple locations.  The gemisch that is the commercial product  probably has a few more manufacturers but not as many as there are products.   Some are just rebranded.  If two companies have products in the same shaped dispenser, they probably come off of the same line. A line that forks just before the labeling machines.
 
PVA when polymerized looks like intertwined fungal hyphae.  The thinner the zone of just vinyl chains between two meeting surfaces, the stronger the bond.   Clamping pressure = bond strength.  The limiting factor is the amount of pressure the wood fibers can resist before they crush.
 
If a POB build has molds that are plywood,  it would probably be prudent to prime the areas that are end grain with pushed in and surface wiped PVA.  Let it cure and then bond the planking.

I would place money on the compounds that polymerize - the vinyl and acrylic components - have one chemical company as their origin.  It is probably a toxic and hazardous process not cost effective to replicate in multiple locations.  The gemisch that is the commercial product  probably has a few more manufacturers but not as many as there are products.   Some are just rebranded.  If two companies have products in the same shaped dispenser, they probably come off of the same line. A line that forks just before the labeling machines.
 
PVA when polymerized looks like intertwined fungal hyphae.  The thinner the zone of just vinyl chains between two meeting surfaces, the stronger the bond.   Clamping pressure = bond strength.  The limiting factor is the amount of pressure the wood fibers can resist before they crush.
 
If a POB build has molds that are plywood,  it would probably be prudent to prime the areas that are end grain with pushed in and surface wiped PVA.  Let it cure and then bond the planking.

I used Franklin pre-mixed Hide glue as a reversible glue.   It holds too well the way I applied it.
I coated both surfaces.  I used tolerances that were too exact.
Hide glue is a protein.  Hot ethanol will denature it and have it curl into small balls.  It would have been exactly what I want - if there was room for the hot ethanol to penetrate the glue joint.
 
Hide glue is probably what the pre- 20th century models were assembled with.   If your goal is a 100-200 year lifespan it should serve.
The Franklin and Old Brown versions are convenient but the high percentage that is water is a worry.
The glue pot hot dissolved flakes has much less water and would probably be the wise option.  Offering a wide choice of critter origins for relative strength.
It is however a witches brew process that takes addition time and skill before the actual wood joining step can begin.  This lack of convenience is a difficult hurdle to justify when compared to just applying a bleb of Titebond II spreading it as a complete monolayer on both meeting surfaces.
 
About Duco -  it probably helps to read the directions.  Totally coat both meeting areas - let dry - apply a wet layer and get together really sorta fast.  It does hold better.

Building ship models can involve solving such a wide rage of problems that it really depends on what you’re trying to do.  
 
For gluing wood to wood commonly available PVA glue; the yellow stuff.  Elmer’s, Titebond, both work fine. Possibly other brands too.  IMHO, it’s all the same stuff.  Requires clamping pressure.
 
Special gluing problems like lightly loaded or interlocking metal to wood joints: Nitrocellulose based glue. Nitrocellulose based clear fingernail polish works great.  It also works for wood-wood joints where clamping pressure cannot be applied.  Duco is its the same stuff, just thicker.
 
For larger wood metal joints, Epoxy.  I especially like JB Weld, it’s easy to squeeze out a couple of blobs and mix.  Eyeball can judge 1:1 proportions.
 
CA Glues:  Don’t use!!
 
Roger
 

An excellent job so far  - on one of the more difficult ships to model.

I have been using Duco Cement or similar glues for at nearly 70 years and it keeps forever. It contains acetone and other volatile chemicals, so if you live in California you should worry that it will cause your ears to fall off. I know it isn't "fashionable" these days, but it works very well with wood. It does dry clear, but it leaves a visible film. It sets up in about 20 seconds but doesn't form a strong bond for about an hour. It hardens fully in 24 hours.
 
I have used PVA and it works, but I end up throwing most of it out because it hardens in the bottle, even when kept capped.
 
I never use CA (cyanoacrilate). It turns to rock in the tubes before I get around to using it. If I do get to use it the necks of the tubes clog after a single use.

I see that you are a Tarheel, so  Sycamore and Walnut will have different meanings from what is European in origin.
 
I doubt that any kit will include Black Walnut or any member of the Juglans family.  What is provided in kits is called "walnut" because of its color. Most is one of several African species in the Mahogany family or a near relative.  Actual Walnut is a much superior wood, but for our uses, it has open pores - not good.
 
What Europeans call Sycamore is an Acer.  It is a Maple.  The Plane tree - what we call Sycamore - a large fast growing but messy tree - has fine grain, no open pores, usefully hard hard wood. However, the grain is busy, it is currently sold as Lacewood,  it has an unpleasant smell when cut and the fibers roll.
 
Lime is Tilia.  It is a soft wood with almost no visible grain.  A color similar to Pine.  It has been used in Europe - northern Europe - for a long time for carving.  The North American member of the family Tilia,  used here as a substitute is Basswood.  Lime is twice as hard as Basswood and not as fuzzy.  Bass does not hold a sharp edge.
 
The light color wood would be either Lime or Sycamore (Eu). If it is soft and shows no grain = Lime. If it hard and with an visible alternating grain = Sycamore.  The color defines its location.
 
Sapele is another African Mahogany.  It is for show.
 
The black is something that has been dyed.  I would guess it is for the wales.
The grey is something that has been dyed.  Probably the same species as the black.  I would guess for decking.
For a new deck, Lime or Acer would match the original Pine or Oak decks,  but the Sun and hard use will turn a "not for show" deck grey.
 
If you catch the ship modeling bug and if it sets in so hard that you come over to the dark side,  Except for the Acer, you can use the wood supplied in the kit as examples of species that you would never use.  For the Acer,  we have the premier member - Hard Maple earning an "A".    The European species gets a "B". 

Kurt is right.
If chop is the way you wish to go
Harbor Freight has a mini chop saw that will cut thru thicker stock rather than crushing the fibers
It is Harbor Freight  so it is not a Rolls.   The table wants a layer to bring it up to the level of the bottom of the "vise".
It wants to sling the off cut.  You do not want your fingers as close to the blade as it would take to hold and prevent that.
 
StewMac has a Japanese Curved-edge Mini Saw  that I like - cutting on the pull stroke- good.
 

I see from picture #2 in post #25 - the idiosyncratic, bizarre, and distracting deck plank pattern - so often seen in OcCre product build logs:
alternating butts on the same beam, stark contrast - highway width caulking,  teacup diameter trunnels only at a butt joint -  is not a misunderstanding on the part of beginning modelers?
It is something that OcCre itself propagates!

Kurt is right.
If chop is the way you wish to go
Harbor Freight has a mini chop saw that will cut thru thicker stock rather than crushing the fibers
It is Harbor Freight  so it is not a Rolls.   The table wants a layer to bring it up to the level of the bottom of the "vise".
It wants to sling the off cut.  You do not want your fingers as close to the blade as it would take to hold and prevent that.
 
StewMac has a Japanese Curved-edge Mini Saw  that I like - cutting on the pull stroke- good.
 

A different path - shellac.
Half strength is an excellent primer - easy to wipe on - quick to dry - an excellent undercoat for just about anything.  Scotch Brite (fine), tack, and then paint.
 
As a finish coat - it does not have build up.   The more coats, the more glossy.  If a touch of linseed oil is added, it is what was French polish. Substituting Tung oil (pure - not something hinky like Homer's) worked for me.
 
My suggestion is that you can get where you wish - with significant control and a reverse gear - if you use your present flat black and follow on with shellac - you can sneak up on your desired degree of gloss - by using multiple layers of shellac - Scotch Brite when each layer is dry - tack and wipe on another layer. 
Alcohol removes it if you dislike or go too glossy.

On Amazon, a productive search term is "brass Welding Wire Rods".

@Bob Cleek 
Probably unintentionally glib above - I mean a thanks response
With your contribution we have three apparatus that will potentially do the same job,  two with a Dremel and two and maybe three with the Foredom -  StewMac has a Foredom collet hand piece with threads that match the Dremel - if the Vanda-Lay is a tread mount - no custom fit is needed. 
 
The sobering factor is that a bevel of significant length is a rare function in my experience.
My take home lesson from using the StewMac as a router - with a 220 drill bit tip as a cutter - to cut a keel rabbet  - a hand chisel is the better way.
 
 
Run-on thinking:
Something like these could work to shape the "OG" type pattern on rails if there was an easy way to fix a flat cutter blade to a central shaft. 
But for all of the work to develop and shape and balance the tool, , hand scraping may be just as efficient.

No, I have not.  I wasn't looking for the Wolf fixture either.  I just thought that it might offer a possibility for someone.
It is mostly to have it on the record and see what discussion came from it.
 
I have a StewMac version that is a router - it becomes sorta like the above if rotated - but I would have to fake a fence. There are holes to mount one.
Routers certainly take up a lot of pages in tool catalogs.  I just have not found a need.  They seem to be very fast, violent, and eager to eat more wood than is intended.
I tried to use an under the table setup as an edger for my 8x4 rough,  but failed to get a smooth face.  My 10" tablesaw did a better job - burned a bit - but the result rides my bandsaw fence better than the sawmill face.

The main Foredom site with this is
https://www.foredom.net/product/a-wt1728-wolf-adjustable-trimmer-for-wax/
The price is in the same ballpark.
 
I have the TX motor since it is wood for its target and torque is needed rather than speed.  I have matches if I want to start a fire.
The prices associated with the GRS Benchmate vise system are a bit startling.

@Bob Cleek 
Probably unintentionally glib above - I mean a thanks response
With your contribution we have three apparatus that will potentially do the same job,  two with a Dremel and two and maybe three with the Foredom -  StewMac has a Foredom collet hand piece with threads that match the Dremel - if the Vanda-Lay is a tread mount - no custom fit is needed. 
 
The sobering factor is that a bevel of significant length is a rare function in my experience.
My take home lesson from using the StewMac as a router - with a 220 drill bit tip as a cutter - to cut a keel rabbet  - a hand chisel is the better way.
 
 
Run-on thinking:
Something like these could work to shape the "OG" type pattern on rails if there was an easy way to fix a flat cutter blade to a central shaft. 
But for all of the work to develop and shape and balance the tool, , hand scraping may be just as efficient.

@Bob Cleek 
Probably unintentionally glib above - I mean a thanks response
With your contribution we have three apparatus that will potentially do the same job,  two with a Dremel and two and maybe three with the Foredom -  StewMac has a Foredom collet hand piece with threads that match the Dremel - if the Vanda-Lay is a tread mount - no custom fit is needed. 
 
The sobering factor is that a bevel of significant length is a rare function in my experience.
My take home lesson from using the StewMac as a router - with a 220 drill bit tip as a cutter - to cut a keel rabbet  - a hand chisel is the better way.
 
 
Run-on thinking:
Something like these could work to shape the "OG" type pattern on rails if there was an easy way to fix a flat cutter blade to a central shaft. 
But for all of the work to develop and shape and balance the tool, , hand scraping may be just as efficient.

No, I have not.  I wasn't looking for the Wolf fixture either.  I just thought that it might offer a possibility for someone.
It is mostly to have it on the record and see what discussion came from it.
 
I have a StewMac version that is a router - it becomes sorta like the above if rotated - but I would have to fake a fence. There are holes to mount one.
Routers certainly take up a lot of pages in tool catalogs.  I just have not found a need.  They seem to be very fast, violent, and eager to eat more wood than is intended.
I tried to use an under the table setup as an edger for my 8x4 rough,  but failed to get a smooth face.  My 10" tablesaw did a better job - burned a bit - but the result rides my bandsaw fence better than the sawmill face.