Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in New Occre Release 2-18-2024
I see from picture #2 in post #25 - the idiosyncratic, bizarre, and distracting deck plank pattern - so often seen in OcCre product build logs:
alternating butts on the same beam, stark contrast - highway width caulking, teacup diameter trunnels only at a butt joint - is not a misunderstanding on the part of beginning modelers?
It is something that OcCre itself propagates!
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Blades for Artesania Latina Cutter
Kurt is right.
If chop is the way you wish to go
Harbor Freight has a mini chop saw that will cut thru thicker stock rather than crushing the fibers
It is Harbor Freight so it is not a Rolls. The table wants a layer to bring it up to the level of the bottom of the "vise".
It wants to sling the off cut. You do not want your fingers as close to the blade as it would take to hold and prevent that.
StewMac has a Japanese Curved-edge Mini Saw that I like - cutting on the pull stroke- good.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Using gloss additive (Vallejo paint)
A different path - shellac.
Half strength is an excellent primer - easy to wipe on - quick to dry - an excellent undercoat for just about anything. Scotch Brite (fine), tack, and then paint.
As a finish coat - it does not have build up. The more coats, the more glossy. If a touch of linseed oil is added, it is what was French polish. Substituting Tung oil (pure - not something hinky like Homer's) worked for me.
My suggestion is that you can get where you wish - with significant control and a reverse gear - if you use your present flat black and follow on with shellac - you can sneak up on your desired degree of gloss - by using multiple layers of shellac - Scotch Brite when each layer is dry - tack and wipe on another layer.
Alcohol removes it if you dislike or go too glossy.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Making lifeboat small mast for 1:200 Yamato
On Amazon, a productive search term is "brass Welding Wire Rods".
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Foredom flex shaft accessory - new to me - Useful for wood?
@Bob Cleek
Probably unintentionally glib above - I mean a thanks response
With your contribution we have three apparatus that will potentially do the same job, two with a Dremel and two and maybe three with the Foredom - StewMac has a Foredom collet hand piece with threads that match the Dremel - if the Vanda-Lay is a tread mount - no custom fit is needed.
The sobering factor is that a bevel of significant length is a rare function in my experience.
My take home lesson from using the StewMac as a router - with a 220 drill bit tip as a cutter - to cut a keel rabbet - a hand chisel is the better way.
Run-on thinking:
Something like these could work to shape the "OG" type pattern on rails if there was an easy way to fix a flat cutter blade to a central shaft.
But for all of the work to develop and shape and balance the tool, , hand scraping may be just as efficient.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Foredom flex shaft accessory - new to me - Useful for wood?
No, I have not. I wasn't looking for the Wolf fixture either. I just thought that it might offer a possibility for someone.
It is mostly to have it on the record and see what discussion came from it.
I have a StewMac version that is a router - it becomes sorta like the above if rotated - but I would have to fake a fence. There are holes to mount one.
Routers certainly take up a lot of pages in tool catalogs. I just have not found a need. They seem to be very fast, violent, and eager to eat more wood than is intended.
I tried to use an under the table setup as an edger for my 8x4 rough, but failed to get a smooth face. My 10" tablesaw did a better job - burned a bit - but the result rides my bandsaw fence better than the sawmill face.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Foredom flex shaft accessory - new to me - Useful for wood?
The main Foredom site with this is
https://www.foredom.net/product/a-wt1728-wolf-adjustable-trimmer-for-wax/
The price is in the same ballpark.
I have the TX motor since it is wood for its target and torque is needed rather than speed. I have matches if I want to start a fire.
The prices associated with the GRS Benchmate vise system are a bit startling.
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Jaager got a reaction from ferretmary1 in Foredom flex shaft accessory - new to me - Useful for wood?
@Bob Cleek
Probably unintentionally glib above - I mean a thanks response
With your contribution we have three apparatus that will potentially do the same job, two with a Dremel and two and maybe three with the Foredom - StewMac has a Foredom collet hand piece with threads that match the Dremel - if the Vanda-Lay is a tread mount - no custom fit is needed.
The sobering factor is that a bevel of significant length is a rare function in my experience.
My take home lesson from using the StewMac as a router - with a 220 drill bit tip as a cutter - to cut a keel rabbet - a hand chisel is the better way.
Run-on thinking:
Something like these could work to shape the "OG" type pattern on rails if there was an easy way to fix a flat cutter blade to a central shaft.
But for all of the work to develop and shape and balance the tool, , hand scraping may be just as efficient.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Foredom flex shaft accessory - new to me - Useful for wood?
@Bob Cleek
Probably unintentionally glib above - I mean a thanks response
With your contribution we have three apparatus that will potentially do the same job, two with a Dremel and two and maybe three with the Foredom - StewMac has a Foredom collet hand piece with threads that match the Dremel - if the Vanda-Lay is a tread mount - no custom fit is needed.
The sobering factor is that a bevel of significant length is a rare function in my experience.
My take home lesson from using the StewMac as a router - with a 220 drill bit tip as a cutter - to cut a keel rabbet - a hand chisel is the better way.
Run-on thinking:
Something like these could work to shape the "OG" type pattern on rails if there was an easy way to fix a flat cutter blade to a central shaft.
But for all of the work to develop and shape and balance the tool, , hand scraping may be just as efficient.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Foredom flex shaft accessory - new to me - Useful for wood?
No, I have not. I wasn't looking for the Wolf fixture either. I just thought that it might offer a possibility for someone.
It is mostly to have it on the record and see what discussion came from it.
I have a StewMac version that is a router - it becomes sorta like the above if rotated - but I would have to fake a fence. There are holes to mount one.
Routers certainly take up a lot of pages in tool catalogs. I just have not found a need. They seem to be very fast, violent, and eager to eat more wood than is intended.
I tried to use an under the table setup as an edger for my 8x4 rough, but failed to get a smooth face. My 10" tablesaw did a better job - burned a bit - but the result rides my bandsaw fence better than the sawmill face.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Foredom flex shaft accessory - new to me - Useful for wood?
@Bob Cleek
Probably unintentionally glib above - I mean a thanks response
With your contribution we have three apparatus that will potentially do the same job, two with a Dremel and two and maybe three with the Foredom - StewMac has a Foredom collet hand piece with threads that match the Dremel - if the Vanda-Lay is a tread mount - no custom fit is needed.
The sobering factor is that a bevel of significant length is a rare function in my experience.
My take home lesson from using the StewMac as a router - with a 220 drill bit tip as a cutter - to cut a keel rabbet - a hand chisel is the better way.
Run-on thinking:
Something like these could work to shape the "OG" type pattern on rails if there was an easy way to fix a flat cutter blade to a central shaft.
But for all of the work to develop and shape and balance the tool, , hand scraping may be just as efficient.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Foredom flex shaft accessory - new to me - Useful for wood?
No, I have not. I wasn't looking for the Wolf fixture either. I just thought that it might offer a possibility for someone.
It is mostly to have it on the record and see what discussion came from it.
I have a StewMac version that is a router - it becomes sorta like the above if rotated - but I would have to fake a fence. There are holes to mount one.
Routers certainly take up a lot of pages in tool catalogs. I just have not found a need. They seem to be very fast, violent, and eager to eat more wood than is intended.
I tried to use an under the table setup as an edger for my 8x4 rough, but failed to get a smooth face. My 10" tablesaw did a better job - burned a bit - but the result rides my bandsaw fence better than the sawmill face.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Gluing Birch planking to plywood frames
Wrong glue.
PVA - yellow carpenters glue Titebond II if a display model Titebond III if it is RC
No glue is going to bond all that well to end grain.
Scrap wood - tongue depressors or Birch coffee stirs can be scabbed on both faces of the plywood molds where the planking bonds to widen and have better grain.
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Jaager got a reaction from paul ron in Foredom flex shaft accessory - new to me - Useful for wood?
Following up on email spam from Foredom - I found this tool - diverted into a wax shaping niche - it looks like it might work for various edge shaping jobs on wood.
It has a grip zone that may work with a panavise-type mount.
It could solve a bevel cut need - with a fence and a rotating table.
Probably a hammer looking for a nail, but it looks neat.
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Jaager got a reaction from paul ron in Gluing Birch planking to plywood frames
Wrong glue.
PVA - yellow carpenters glue Titebond II if a display model Titebond III if it is RC
No glue is going to bond all that well to end grain.
Scrap wood - tongue depressors or Birch coffee stirs can be scabbed on both faces of the plywood molds where the planking bonds to widen and have better grain.
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Jaager got a reaction from No Idea in Gluing Birch planking to plywood frames
Wrong glue.
PVA - yellow carpenters glue Titebond II if a display model Titebond III if it is RC
No glue is going to bond all that well to end grain.
Scrap wood - tongue depressors or Birch coffee stirs can be scabbed on both faces of the plywood molds where the planking bonds to widen and have better grain.
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Jaager got a reaction from davyboy in Gluing Birch planking to plywood frames
Wrong glue.
PVA - yellow carpenters glue Titebond II if a display model Titebond III if it is RC
No glue is going to bond all that well to end grain.
Scrap wood - tongue depressors or Birch coffee stirs can be scabbed on both faces of the plywood molds where the planking bonds to widen and have better grain.
-
Jaager got a reaction from No Idea in Foredom flex shaft accessory - new to me - Useful for wood?
The main Foredom site with this is
https://www.foredom.net/product/a-wt1728-wolf-adjustable-trimmer-for-wax/
The price is in the same ballpark.
I have the TX motor since it is wood for its target and torque is needed rather than speed. I have matches if I want to start a fire.
The prices associated with the GRS Benchmate vise system are a bit startling.
-
Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in Gluing Birch planking to plywood frames
Wrong glue.
PVA - yellow carpenters glue Titebond II if a display model Titebond III if it is RC
No glue is going to bond all that well to end grain.
Scrap wood - tongue depressors or Birch coffee stirs can be scabbed on both faces of the plywood molds where the planking bonds to widen and have better grain.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Gluing Birch planking to plywood frames
Wrong glue.
PVA - yellow carpenters glue Titebond II if a display model Titebond III if it is RC
No glue is going to bond all that well to end grain.
Scrap wood - tongue depressors or Birch coffee stirs can be scabbed on both faces of the plywood molds where the planking bonds to widen and have better grain.
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Jaager reacted to Roger Pellett in Using gloss additive (Vallejo paint)
You can make your own black paint with the exact amount of gloss that you want. Buy a tube of artist’s acrylic black and a bottle of acrylic gloss medium. A tube of white would also be useful for adding a “scale effect” to the black. Here in the US any craft store will stock these items. Start by squeezing out some black on a palette; a piece of glass is perfect. Mix in a little white to get the right scale color. Add a little gloss medium. When you’re happy with the result, mix up a larger batch, thin with water, and paint.
Roger
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Using gloss additive (Vallejo paint)
A different path - shellac.
Half strength is an excellent primer - easy to wipe on - quick to dry - an excellent undercoat for just about anything. Scotch Brite (fine), tack, and then paint.
As a finish coat - it does not have build up. The more coats, the more glossy. If a touch of linseed oil is added, it is what was French polish. Substituting Tung oil (pure - not something hinky like Homer's) worked for me.
My suggestion is that you can get where you wish - with significant control and a reverse gear - if you use your present flat black and follow on with shellac - you can sneak up on your desired degree of gloss - by using multiple layers of shellac - Scotch Brite when each layer is dry - tack and wipe on another layer.
Alcohol removes it if you dislike or go too glossy.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Foredom flex shaft accessory - new to me - Useful for wood?
The main Foredom site with this is
https://www.foredom.net/product/a-wt1728-wolf-adjustable-trimmer-for-wax/
The price is in the same ballpark.
I have the TX motor since it is wood for its target and torque is needed rather than speed. I have matches if I want to start a fire.
The prices associated with the GRS Benchmate vise system are a bit startling.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Foredom flex shaft accessory - new to me - Useful for wood?
Following up on email spam from Foredom - I found this tool - diverted into a wax shaping niche - it looks like it might work for various edge shaping jobs on wood.
It has a grip zone that may work with a panavise-type mount.
It could solve a bevel cut need - with a fence and a rotating table.
Probably a hammer looking for a nail, but it looks neat.
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