Jaager

A safe sealer is shellac.  The first coat or two should be half strength. 
The more purified the shellac flakes, the lower the saturated solution in alcohol.
What I mean is =  I think orange shellac is 20% at full strength and 10% at half.  I prefer super blonde and with it, 10% is full strength and 5% is half.
There is a grade more purified than super blonde, but super blonde is close enough to water clear for me.
The solvent is alcohol.  Methanol (wood alcohol) is the traditional type,  not sure how easy it is to get.  Ethanol is what is usually available, the main factor with it - the best that can be had is 5% water - ethanol forms a special attraction with water - it requires expensive and energy requiring steps to remove the last 5% and even when done, if the 100% ethanol is exposed to the atmosphere, it pulls in water vapor and quickly becomes 5% water again.  That 5% does not seem to make it not suitable for shellac.   I had my pharmacy order a gallon tin of 100% isopropyl alcohol, it drys more slowly, so is more forgiving on finish coats, but even then, it was costly, and by working there I got it at cost.  The stuff out front in bottles has too much water.  I like the 91% iso for removing wood dust from sanded surfaces.
The traditional dissolving of shellac flakes in alcohol is "pound cut" - pounds of flakes in a gallon of alcohol. This is not even close to being practical for us. As rough as this is, a little rounding makes it easier.  Call a lb = 500 g  and a gal = 4000 ml  and the math is easy.  
There are low cost small battery scales - that measure grams - and a graduated cylinder in ml need not cost much.  Once mixed, shellac has a limited shelf life,  but by using % - any volume can be easily made up.
For what you want, premixed orange shellac and a tin of shellac thinner will do.   I like shellac as a finish and super blonde does not darken the wood very much.  As an undercoat, it is compatible with most everything.  I even use half strength as a first coat before applying a 50-50 base coat of Tung oil when I want an oil finish.

Hey Tar Heel, Where in NC are you? 
If you venture into scratch building, you may wish you had kept some of your tools.
 
Bad Duke! Bad, bad Duke!  34 points! Bad Duke!

Years ago, the NRJ featured a model where the builder built the whole hull and then used a razor saw to cut the whole thing in half along the waterline.
What you want is not nearly as scary as doing that. 
Spilling? yes,  but it should be the same as if you use Pear or Castillo the whole way - except at the LWL.  Matching a long diagonal cut may involve a lot of do over to get right.

The polymerization reaction of the oil is exothermic - the oil exposed to oxygen generates heat.  On a flat open surface, the relatively low heat dissipates quickly.  A ball of rags in a closed space, can retain enough of the generated heat at a central point to cause the combination of air, oil, solvent, and cellulose to generate a chain reaction without a spark.  The trick is making sure that the heat dissipates in a room temp environment.

I think Linville Falls should be sorta near to you,  when I visited years ago was an exquisite jewel. 
The panorama of the Pisgah National Forest, that Michael Mann did - so spectacular when edited to remove post 1500 "improvements".
You live in a special place.

Hey Tar Heel, Where in NC are you? 
If you venture into scratch building, you may wish you had kept some of your tools.
 
Bad Duke! Bad, bad Duke!  34 points! Bad Duke!

Years ago, the NRJ featured a model where the builder built the whole hull and then used a razor saw to cut the whole thing in half along the waterline.
What you want is not nearly as scary as doing that. 
Spilling? yes,  but it should be the same as if you use Pear or Castillo the whole way - except at the LWL.  Matching a long diagonal cut may involve a lot of do over to get right.

The polymerization reaction of the oil is exothermic - the oil exposed to oxygen generates heat.  On a flat open surface, the relatively low heat dissipates quickly.  A ball of rags in a closed space, can retain enough of the generated heat at a central point to cause the combination of air, oil, solvent, and cellulose to generate a chain reaction without a spark.  The trick is making sure that the heat dissipates in a room temp environment.

The polymerization reaction of the oil is exothermic - the oil exposed to oxygen generates heat.  On a flat open surface, the relatively low heat dissipates quickly.  A ball of rags in a closed space, can retain enough of the generated heat at a central point to cause the combination of air, oil, solvent, and cellulose to generate a chain reaction without a spark.  The trick is making sure that the heat dissipates in a room temp environment.

My plan is to do something similar.  Finished above the copper and open to framing except the ends where the cants begin for the bottom.
In your case, getting a sharp join will be a bit of a challenge. I would probably plank the bottom first - and place a batten at the LWL - its bottom edge on the upper side.  It will be like fitting at the stem and stern rabbets or a filling plank the whole way.  Chances are, this will involve two or more strakes.
 
Another way = planking the bottom  up to the LWL and taking the Castello that goes above the LWL at either end all the way to the stem and stern rabbets. Saw them off above the line and use the cut offs as patterns for the Pear substitutes. But, I wonder if doing card patterns for all of the planks and using those at the LWL as the pattern for both sides would be easier.  A disk sander gets a sharper line more easily than a saw and hand filling/sanding.

For that time, I would look up the scantlings in Yedlinsky  or the texts that he extracted.
For the RN  in the last 1/3-1/2 of the 18C   R&S of 2' to 2" 2" would be close. 
The timbers 9.75" to 10".  If paired, 20" of wood and 4-6" of space. If unpaired 10" wood and 2-3" of space.
If you have the plans, see what the closest combination of the above will fit between the stations.
Each station line bisects a bend - if paired frames were used. 
If singleton frames, the station is likely the aft face in the fore section and fore face in the aft section.
Figure the fore section to be about 40% of the whole.
 
It looks to me = the RN seemed to prefer cutters and brigantines to schooners, unlike North America.

The deck should have camber.  The actual surface area will be larger than a 2D screen simulation.
Why not use a 8x5 index card and get a pattern of the open deck area on it.  When you lay it flat, it will include the additional camber area.
Try your plank patterns on it directly, or scan it and use a Photo Shop clone or a straight forward drawing program on the scan.  Just make sure you
know the scale adjustments needed to get a scan to print out a copy that is identical to the original.  It seems like scanners are required to alter the scale when doing a direct scan-print copy, so a digital copy is also altered.

We are honored and fortunate to have access to someone with vast knowledge of and experience with 17th and 18th century Dutch shipbuilding. Your efforts to increase the exposure to this subject and make it much more accessible to ship modellers thru books and journal articles is greatly appreciated .  I hope your tenure here is rewarding.

Contact cement can be a poor choice.  It is messy, difficult to clean up.  I use it to adhere cloth backed 
sanding media to the Maple platten of my thickness sander.  I can get it to denature with naptha or mineral
spirits, but have yet to find a true solvent for it.   It seems to have a limited effective life.  I think it oxidizes,
becomes brittle over time, and the bond fails.   
 
I read of a technique for using PVA as a contact bonding agent.  I forget exactly how,  but it involves coating both
surfaces - a thin even layer - let it dry.  and then it is either a third thin layer on one surface,  or place the wood in position
and iron it to join.  There is potential here for a combination of instant grab and normal PVA bonding.  It would just involve
more pre planing and a longer time than most of us have the patience for.
 
Since CA is activated by water-  the reason skin bonds more quickly than wood -  it may prove unmanageable but if the wood
was slightly damp, the bond may cure more quickly.

Contact cement can be a poor choice.  It is messy, difficult to clean up.  I use it to adhere cloth backed 
sanding media to the Maple platten of my thickness sander.  I can get it to denature with naptha or mineral
spirits, but have yet to find a true solvent for it.   It seems to have a limited effective life.  I think it oxidizes,
becomes brittle over time, and the bond fails.   
 
I read of a technique for using PVA as a contact bonding agent.  I forget exactly how,  but it involves coating both
surfaces - a thin even layer - let it dry.  and then it is either a third thin layer on one surface,  or place the wood in position
and iron it to join.  There is potential here for a combination of instant grab and normal PVA bonding.  It would just involve
more pre planing and a longer time than most of us have the patience for.
 
Since CA is activated by water-  the reason skin bonds more quickly than wood -  it may prove unmanageable but if the wood
was slightly damp, the bond may cure more quickly.

An addition to Bob's Harbor Freight $10 drill = a variable power supply can get more work from the drill than the single voltage supply that comes with it.
Just shop around: what American Science and Surplus sells for $30 - Marlin P Jones & Assoc sells something similar for $15.

Building and adapting tools, cutting off steel, a powerful and high speed unit can be useful.
For working wood, drilling for trunnels,  my main model is the 8050.  The mega rotary tool sets
are mostly things that you will not really need or use - probably.  But the 8050 needs a full range
of collets as an additional purchase. 

Kurt,
It was astute of you to have the width of you table short enough to not have to remove the fence.
A larger one could be made for longer jobs.
 
 
 

For relatively short pieces being crosscut, a sliding table works for me.  A topside hold down can be easily used what with the bottom fence.
I had already made my own before Jim provided his Rolls-Royce version.  Mine is made up of left over material.
It is ripping that I wonder about.  Is a GRR Ripper too large to use on a Byrnes saw?

Bummer,  You can try it,  On the Wood Database - the JPEG reminds me a bit of Oak  in that the grain is course and it is open pore.
Be mindful of scale - if the grain and pores dominate,  you may not wish to use it - but it is about your taste.  If you do not paint with natural wood and actually seal and use paint and do not mind it tending to dull steel cutting edges try it.
The wood is apparently expensive for most of us,  You do not state a preferred scale, at mine (1:60) a 10 inch piece is 50 feet long in scale.  This is longer than most any piece of a ship.  I will use 6 inch pieces , it is just fiddly milling short stock.  If you like it, and have any pack rat tendencies,  stock as much as you can store.  Situations change and it may not be there for free in the future.

It is my impression that Asian Teak has relatively course grain and open pores.  With the high silica inclusion, carbide edged saw blades are probably required.  If it is Rhodesian Teak -  it looks more promising.  The pores look smaller and the grain = not so much contrast.  It is difficult to beat free,
I would try it and see,  Twice as hard as Hard Maple,  it would be difficult to take too much with a single cut. 
If you are POF,  most any hull component -  given that it is strong and likely to hold a crisp edge.  You will have to determine if the color , grain contrast are something that you like.

We are honored and fortunate to have access to someone with vast knowledge of and experience with 17th and 18th century Dutch shipbuilding. Your efforts to increase the exposure to this subject and make it much more accessible to ship modellers thru books and journal articles is greatly appreciated .  I hope your tenure here is rewarding.

I have never done it myself, but Amazon has this:
3M 420 Fiberglass Resin & Repair Kit, .45 Pint   < $ 20
 
Take a look and see if you can tackle it.
I am not sure how fierce the epoxy resin solvent fumes are or what your ventilation safety is but factor that in.
A thought =  you are covering a wooden surface?  Resin strength needing re-enforcement is not a factor.  Could
you not use actual cotton or linen cloth or even bond paper with the resin, instead of glass fiber or carbon fiber on the
outside?  
Another thought + Use a solvent based varnish and paper or cloth instead of epoy.  You have your strength already.
All you want is a seamless water proof layer. 

An addition to Bob's Harbor Freight $10 drill = a variable power supply can get more work from the drill than the single voltage supply that comes with it.
Just shop around: what American Science and Surplus sells for $30 - Marlin P Jones & Assoc sells something similar for $15.

Building and adapting tools, cutting off steel, a powerful and high speed unit can be useful.
For working wood, drilling for trunnels,  my main model is the 8050.  The mega rotary tool sets
are mostly things that you will not really need or use - probably.  But the 8050 needs a full range
of collets as an additional purchase.