Jaager

Kurt,
It was astute of you to have the width of you table short enough to not have to remove the fence.
A larger one could be made for longer jobs.
 
 
 

For relatively short pieces being crosscut, a sliding table works for me.  A topside hold down can be easily used what with the bottom fence.
I had already made my own before Jim provided his Rolls-Royce version.  Mine is made up of left over material.
It is ripping that I wonder about.  Is a GRR Ripper too large to use on a Byrnes saw?

Bummer,  You can try it,  On the Wood Database - the JPEG reminds me a bit of Oak  in that the grain is course and it is open pore.
Be mindful of scale - if the grain and pores dominate,  you may not wish to use it - but it is about your taste.  If you do not paint with natural wood and actually seal and use paint and do not mind it tending to dull steel cutting edges try it.
The wood is apparently expensive for most of us,  You do not state a preferred scale, at mine (1:60) a 10 inch piece is 50 feet long in scale.  This is longer than most any piece of a ship.  I will use 6 inch pieces , it is just fiddly milling short stock.  If you like it, and have any pack rat tendencies,  stock as much as you can store.  Situations change and it may not be there for free in the future.

It is my impression that Asian Teak has relatively course grain and open pores.  With the high silica inclusion, carbide edged saw blades are probably required.  If it is Rhodesian Teak -  it looks more promising.  The pores look smaller and the grain = not so much contrast.  It is difficult to beat free,
I would try it and see,  Twice as hard as Hard Maple,  it would be difficult to take too much with a single cut. 
If you are POF,  most any hull component -  given that it is strong and likely to hold a crisp edge.  You will have to determine if the color , grain contrast are something that you like.

It is a new book.  It is a showcase of the NMM model collection to demonstrate ship construction.
Just selected examples of their vast inventory, but it is impressive to see what those Old Boys could do
with just hand tools.

We are honored and fortunate to have access to someone with vast knowledge of and experience with 17th and 18th century Dutch shipbuilding. Your efforts to increase the exposure to this subject and make it much more accessible to ship modellers thru books and journal articles is greatly appreciated .  I hope your tenure here is rewarding.

It is a new book.  It is a showcase of the NMM model collection to demonstrate ship construction.
Just selected examples of their vast inventory, but it is impressive to see what those Old Boys could do
with just hand tools.

Building and adapting tools, cutting off steel, a powerful and high speed unit can be useful.
For working wood, drilling for trunnels,  my main model is the 8050.  The mega rotary tool sets
are mostly things that you will not really need or use - probably.  But the 8050 needs a full range
of collets as an additional purchase. 

Building and adapting tools, cutting off steel, a powerful and high speed unit can be useful.
For working wood, drilling for trunnels,  my main model is the 8050.  The mega rotary tool sets
are mostly things that you will not really need or use - probably.  But the 8050 needs a full range
of collets as an additional purchase. 

It is a new book.  It is a showcase of the NMM model collection to demonstrate ship construction.
Just selected examples of their vast inventory, but it is impressive to see what those Old Boys could do
with just hand tools.

For quick and dirty:
Historic Ship Models   Wolfeam zu Mondfeld  has  several pages  - well 1 & 1/2 now that I look at it - at the back with  Eng  Ger  Sp Fr It  simultaneous translations for the more common terms..
A lot is packed into this book.  Would not have believed that it is twice what I paid for a new copy.

From the database:
 
Workability: Northern White Cedar has good overall working characteristics, and works easily with both hand and machine tools. However, the wood is both soft and weak, giving it poor screw-holding capabilities. Northern White Cedar glues and finishes well.
Perhaps the closest thing to Balsa that the United States has domestically, Northern White Cedar is one of the very lightest and softest of commercially available woods in the country
 
In your place, I would give it a try,  You might be surprised.   As far as how AYC relates to other species that are named Cedar - the answer is probably:
not so much.
 
A relative gave me 3 logs of Aromatic Cedar,  I think I will process them into billets and see what is there.  I gravitate to hard, but I have used Tulip Poplar with success.  I am impressed with how tall, wide and straight this tree grows.

Thanks Wel,
 
The Unimat rest is 3 adjustable points,  I do not have it yet so I don't know how large the opening is and thus the max for the OD for a ball bearing race. It is fairly small though. 
I did a back of the envelope calculation  and  based on this, an ID of 3/4" or 17mm should clear the diameter of the largest mainmast I will encounter @ 1:60.   $6/2 on Amazon. 
Cardboard shims should work.   
The main complaint about using a small watchmakers size lathe for shaping masts seems to be that the ways are not long enough, this covers that problem.
I also see it as a way to hold the end of square stock for turning guns and capstans.   Match the dimensions of the square stock to be a push fit into
the nearest size ID ball bearing race.  No locating the center of the square stock.
 

Stringybark seems to be applied to a bunch of  Eucalyptus species. 
If what you have is Messmate - it is not gonna look good on a model.
Dye it blue or blue-green and It would make a baseboard for a model that
looks like a series of waves in chain.  I would go for that.
 
I don't see any of the other possible species in the database.  I would billet a
sample and plane it just to see if makes the grade.  It would be a shame to
make a bonfire of something useful. 
 
If you have the time and resources, an examination and test could be made of
your domestic hardwood species that are available commercially, and could be used
for ship models.  It might could be a help to make a virtue of your isolation and promote what you have available
there.  My target is tight grain, no visible surface pores,  low contrast between the Spring and Summer wood.
Fairly hard to very hard is good, crisp edges a must.

From the database:
 
Workability: Northern White Cedar has good overall working characteristics, and works easily with both hand and machine tools. However, the wood is both soft and weak, giving it poor screw-holding capabilities. Northern White Cedar glues and finishes well.
Perhaps the closest thing to Balsa that the United States has domestically, Northern White Cedar is one of the very lightest and softest of commercially available woods in the country
 
In your place, I would give it a try,  You might be surprised.   As far as how AYC relates to other species that are named Cedar - the answer is probably:
not so much.
 
A relative gave me 3 logs of Aromatic Cedar,  I think I will process them into billets and see what is there.  I gravitate to hard, but I have used Tulip Poplar with success.  I am impressed with how tall, wide and straight this tree grows.

On small lathes, such as my Unimat there is a limit to how long the piece being turned can be and still have distant end support.  I have also seen pictures of the head stock being turned and a long mast being shaped with just the near end being secured.
I remember seeing a suggestion for using a ball bearing live center with the support tip removed.
I had the replace a frozen back support on my old band saw  what it was stuck.
 

 
 
These come in multiple OD and ID.   I just bought a used steady rest for my Unimat yo hold one of these, but since I only heard from PayPal about it, I was thinking that it was not going to happen.   It dawned on me that I could make a support for a ball bearing out of wood and saved the $90, and be able to use a ball bearing with a larger ID that might have an OD larger than the steady rest opening.
 
A long mast could go thru a properly large ID unit and be supported by shims.  Not many masts will be twice the distance of the lathe ways, so the mast can be reversed to shape.   If it is that long the piece being shaped has support at two points with any outboard shaping.
For small spars, the end can be shimmed in a ball bearing with a small ID and have a friction free support for the end.
 
My apologies if this is common knowledge and I just missed being exposed to it.

For quick and dirty:
Historic Ship Models   Wolfeam zu Mondfeld  has  several pages  - well 1 & 1/2 now that I look at it - at the back with  Eng  Ger  Sp Fr It  simultaneous translations for the more common terms..
A lot is packed into this book.  Would not have believed that it is twice what I paid for a new copy.

Mark,

Sustainable Northwest Wood
2701 SE 14th Ave, Portland, OR 97202
 
They have 4x4 and 8x4 Madrone lumber - they anywhere near you?
 
By the way, I left a price quote inquiry for AYC with a lumber yard on your side of the continent, no joy today
maybe the holiday?
 

Mark,
While you are at it, there is another strictly "local" species to investigate =  Madrone.
It - when seasoned correctly - sounds near perfect for our use.  It is supposedly like, but superior to, Pear.
Reading on the sites of the area mills that sell it - but only to walk in trade -  it is a bear to season correctly.
Apparently some have developed  a way to effectively kiln dry it.

For lnen yarn
Etsy   has sources - mostly Baltic    Coloredworld   LINENGRAPHY   TheRawLinen
the natural grey looks like hemp as it is.  It is a bit fuzzy and adherence to diameter spec could be better,
but it is linen.
 
 

Mark,
While you are at it, there is another strictly "local" species to investigate =  Madrone.
It - when seasoned correctly - sounds near perfect for our use.  It is supposedly like, but superior to, Pear.
Reading on the sites of the area mills that sell it - but only to walk in trade -  it is a bear to season correctly.
Apparently some have developed  a way to effectively kiln dry it.

For quick and dirty:
Historic Ship Models   Wolfeam zu Mondfeld  has  several pages  - well 1 & 1/2 now that I look at it - at the back with  Eng  Ger  Sp Fr It  simultaneous translations for the more common terms..
A lot is packed into this book.  Would not have believed that it is twice what I paid for a new copy.

Mark,
While you are at it, there is another strictly "local" species to investigate =  Madrone.
It - when seasoned correctly - sounds near perfect for our use.  It is supposedly like, but superior to, Pear.
Reading on the sites of the area mills that sell it - but only to walk in trade -  it is a bear to season correctly.
Apparently some have developed  a way to effectively kiln dry it.

For lnen yarn
Etsy   has sources - mostly Baltic    Coloredworld   LINENGRAPHY   TheRawLinen
the natural grey looks like hemp as it is.  It is a bit fuzzy and adherence to diameter spec could be better,
but it is linen.
 
 

If you must use SS pins,  take a look at Dritz quilters pins - 1 3/4"  28g  which is #72 wire gauge.  They run about 2 cents each.   I use them as locators - outside the part's  final border - For the pins that PVA bonds - it takes me 3 hemostats to get enough grip to twist break the bond - I now pull them as soon as I set my clamps.
 
My thoughts on this:
Pins strong enough not to bend when significant force is applied are like as not too large a gauge for a model 1:48 or smaller.
For planking, I  :
drill first.
use brass lills in case the pin will not let go, 
use a hitch chuck on the pin to hold the plank down,
use the holes for bamboo trunnels after,  
A hitch chuck is a small piece of scrap wood to increase the surface area for the downward force. I have them be as thick as the size of my hemostat jaws. PVA can bond the pin to the wood.  Splitting out the wood leaves room grip the lill with a curved Kelly clamp and prize it out.
A nipped and filed brass or copper wire works with bamboo trunnels.  There are French museum models with extensive brass trunneling of hull planking.  #72 g is 1.5" at 1:60 scale.
I am thinking about using copper wire as trunnels after I pull the lills.  Using a draw plate, I can pull a piece of 12g Romex down to a really long #72- #75 wire,  The question = will it be stiff enough to push?  I think that pulling the wire will case harden it. 
 
I use a lot of 4" ratcheting bar clamps.  The only brand that work for me is the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh with the large grey nut.  The small grey nut variety do not hold, every body's orange or red varieties - the hold part is weak plastic and the triggers break.  Irwin clamps can apply only a very weak force.  If on sale, the HF clamps can be had for $1 - regularly $2.