Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Quick and Thick Titebond glue problems
Thixiotropic means that when still - it is thick and acts solid - when shaken - it is fluid.
My guess is that it would be usful on a bond where normal PVA would flow off .
Otherwise, I imagine a downside - more difficulty getting complete coating on both mating surfaces.
If your Titebond II bottle is other than yellow cream in color, or has a strong acetic acid smell - it has deteriorated.
My guess is that your surface prep could be the problem.
PVA bonds by a chemical reaction - long cross linked chains. The surfaces must be porous. They must be close together.
I do not use finer than 220 grit abrasive and I scrape with a steel edge on both faces. The scraping clears sawdust from the pores.
Clamp as tight as can be had without crushing the wood fibers - Use a buffer of a softer wood species as an layer between
the work and the clamp face.
Ultimately, consider using an old school technique ( Underhill I think ) suspenders and a belt = glue and dowels.
I clamp overnight or 8-12 hrs. I wait at least 24 before using any mechanical force on the area.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Laying out plans in a smaller workshop
Use your 3 in 1 printer scanner. Scan the area, take the file into a program like GIMP or Paintshop Pro - the high end
versions are Photoshop or Painter - adjust for scanner distortion ( determined by scanning a clear meter ruler - taking it into
into the photo program and printing it out - measure the print against the ruler, calculate the % difference - adjust the scan
by that amount of "scale" - print that out - remeasure- repeat adjusting until your get a % that = identity of the printout
with the original ruler - remember that % adjustment - and use it for all scans on your system.
A larger area can be had if you use 8 x 14 paper.
In the photo program, open the scan as a layer in a pre saved canvas. I print out the saved file using Windows Photo Viewer -
I have to make sure that program does not "adjust" to a boarder - that it only prints the file as it is. I prefer PNG to JPG .
My standard canvas sizes - so that no auto adjustments are done by a printer program are 8.5 x 11 = 2197 x 1701 pixels and 8.5 x 14 = 2796 x 1701 pixels
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Reducing extractor noise
A side swipe lighting strike burned out the circuit board on my garage door opener and I have
never placed it. I manually open the door and unlike most, I do keep my car in the garage -
I live on The Bay - Little Creek harbor actually - the salt water could maybe rust my car. I
do not mind the exercise. So I don't know if the frequencies are the same - and an ironic factor
is that my car has the ability to produce the activation signal.
I was hoping someone knew why the Festool will not run continuously. It acts as though the
overheat protection control is set at too low a temp.
It is not the RF switch. If it because of the cyclone trap ( the Wood Craft salesman said
that Festool nixed a custom cyclone trap for their machines) then it really is an unacceptable machine.
Pointless to test that since I will never not have the cyclone trap in-line. The clogged filter and
quickly full bag with a vac only system = too much hassle.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Reducing extractor noise
I used an old Sears 16 gal shop vac for years - It was really loud - had to use
sound suppressing head phones with it. When the motor started arching, I
retired it to the dump. Following discussions here I bought a Festool Midi.
Since I use a cyclone trap - the capacity of the unit is not important and the
smaller foot print was an advantage. It is quiet enough, and pulls enough air,
but it turns itself off after a short run time. A total waste of $600.
Looking around, I found a Rigid 14 gal at Home Depot for $100 that is about as
quiet. I no longer need the head phones. It stays on just fine. The only occasional
problem = I live in a condo and I think at least one neighbor has a garage door remote
that uses the same frequency as my on/off remote for the vac. I have to make sure to
unplug it when I am done.
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Jaager got a reaction from trippwj in Hull lines for 1853 Young America
Check SeaWatch books
I do not have this volume yet, so I do not know if the plans provided include
the standard 3 view lines
My Smithsonian catalog lists lines plans in page 181.
I also have TIFF and JPEG copies of the Webb originals on a CD from a member here SharingHistory.com
as a bonus on J.Scott Russell's The Modern System of Naval Architecture 1865
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Reducing extractor noise
A side swipe lighting strike burned out the circuit board on my garage door opener and I have
never placed it. I manually open the door and unlike most, I do keep my car in the garage -
I live on The Bay - Little Creek harbor actually - the salt water could maybe rust my car. I
do not mind the exercise. So I don't know if the frequencies are the same - and an ironic factor
is that my car has the ability to produce the activation signal.
I was hoping someone knew why the Festool will not run continuously. It acts as though the
overheat protection control is set at too low a temp.
It is not the RF switch. If it because of the cyclone trap ( the Wood Craft salesman said
that Festool nixed a custom cyclone trap for their machines) then it really is an unacceptable machine.
Pointless to test that since I will never not have the cyclone trap in-line. The clogged filter and
quickly full bag with a vac only system = too much hassle.
-
Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Reducing extractor noise
I used an old Sears 16 gal shop vac for years - It was really loud - had to use
sound suppressing head phones with it. When the motor started arching, I
retired it to the dump. Following discussions here I bought a Festool Midi.
Since I use a cyclone trap - the capacity of the unit is not important and the
smaller foot print was an advantage. It is quiet enough, and pulls enough air,
but it turns itself off after a short run time. A total waste of $600.
Looking around, I found a Rigid 14 gal at Home Depot for $100 that is about as
quiet. I no longer need the head phones. It stays on just fine. The only occasional
problem = I live in a condo and I think at least one neighbor has a garage door remote
that uses the same frequency as my on/off remote for the vac. I have to make sure to
unplug it when I am done.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Reducing extractor noise
A side swipe lighting strike burned out the circuit board on my garage door opener and I have
never placed it. I manually open the door and unlike most, I do keep my car in the garage -
I live on The Bay - Little Creek harbor actually - the salt water could maybe rust my car. I
do not mind the exercise. So I don't know if the frequencies are the same - and an ironic factor
is that my car has the ability to produce the activation signal.
I was hoping someone knew why the Festool will not run continuously. It acts as though the
overheat protection control is set at too low a temp.
It is not the RF switch. If it because of the cyclone trap ( the Wood Craft salesman said
that Festool nixed a custom cyclone trap for their machines) then it really is an unacceptable machine.
Pointless to test that since I will never not have the cyclone trap in-line. The clogged filter and
quickly full bag with a vac only system = too much hassle.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Reducing extractor noise
I used an old Sears 16 gal shop vac for years - It was really loud - had to use
sound suppressing head phones with it. When the motor started arching, I
retired it to the dump. Following discussions here I bought a Festool Midi.
Since I use a cyclone trap - the capacity of the unit is not important and the
smaller foot print was an advantage. It is quiet enough, and pulls enough air,
but it turns itself off after a short run time. A total waste of $600.
Looking around, I found a Rigid 14 gal at Home Depot for $100 that is about as
quiet. I no longer need the head phones. It stays on just fine. The only occasional
problem = I live in a condo and I think at least one neighbor has a garage door remote
that uses the same frequency as my on/off remote for the vac. I have to make sure to
unplug it when I am done.
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Jaager got a reaction from lmagna in How much space does White and Yellow glue take up.
First off: the glue space is determined by the clamping pressure used.
But, way back when 17th C. Naval Board style framing was first presented as
something we could do, the add-on effect of the glue space was speculated as
having a measurable effect, since the timbers meet continuously fore to aft.
Using a mechanical micrometer I measured the following:
Titebond II 0.001"
white PVA 0.0004"
liquid hide glue -0.0013" not sure how this came to be
The video instructions on the Gerstner & Sons site suggest that too much pressure
can produce a "glue starved" bond. If both surfaces are coated prior to the join,
with PVA, since it bonds by internal polymerization reaction, I do not see this as a problem.
With older glues, such as hide or casein this could be a problem.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in How much space does White and Yellow glue take up.
First off: the glue space is determined by the clamping pressure used.
But, way back when 17th C. Naval Board style framing was first presented as
something we could do, the add-on effect of the glue space was speculated as
having a measurable effect, since the timbers meet continuously fore to aft.
Using a mechanical micrometer I measured the following:
Titebond II 0.001"
white PVA 0.0004"
liquid hide glue -0.0013" not sure how this came to be
The video instructions on the Gerstner & Sons site suggest that too much pressure
can produce a "glue starved" bond. If both surfaces are coated prior to the join,
with PVA, since it bonds by internal polymerization reaction, I do not see this as a problem.
With older glues, such as hide or casein this could be a problem.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in How much space does White and Yellow glue take up.
First off: the glue space is determined by the clamping pressure used.
But, way back when 17th C. Naval Board style framing was first presented as
something we could do, the add-on effect of the glue space was speculated as
having a measurable effect, since the timbers meet continuously fore to aft.
Using a mechanical micrometer I measured the following:
Titebond II 0.001"
white PVA 0.0004"
liquid hide glue -0.0013" not sure how this came to be
The video instructions on the Gerstner & Sons site suggest that too much pressure
can produce a "glue starved" bond. If both surfaces are coated prior to the join,
with PVA, since it bonds by internal polymerization reaction, I do not see this as a problem.
With older glues, such as hide or casein this could be a problem.
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Jaager got a reaction from Alan Cabrera in First carving attempt by Joop
Too late, but a stress free and precise way to drill the holes:
For small subjects, temp bond the piece to a base, mark/start the holes with a very sharp awl
and drill the holes with a drill press.
It avoids the twitch problem with free hand drilling as well as doing the hole perpendicular.
I find that the bits want to dance on the surface, and the awl produced pit avoids that.
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Jaager got a reaction from Richard Griffith in Gluing planks to a filler
Taking a step back and looking at this from a larger perspective,
I have what is probably an impertinent question about the core of this inquiry.
If there is to be a second (finish) layer of planking, why is a filler even being used?
Is the next layer so thin that it follows every dip of the subsurface?
If the planking is that thin, I would probably replace it with a more robust planking.
A filler is meant to fill holes, not do what Bondo does in auto body work?
Since it is being covered, looks do not matter.
If there is an error with a significant hollow, I would scab a piece of wood veneer there
and sand it to spec.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Gluing planks to a filler
Taking a step back and looking at this from a larger perspective,
I have what is probably an impertinent question about the core of this inquiry.
If there is to be a second (finish) layer of planking, why is a filler even being used?
Is the next layer so thin that it follows every dip of the subsurface?
If the planking is that thin, I would probably replace it with a more robust planking.
A filler is meant to fill holes, not do what Bondo does in auto body work?
Since it is being covered, looks do not matter.
If there is an error with a significant hollow, I would scab a piece of wood veneer there
and sand it to spec.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Gluing planks to a filler
PVA - bonds by undergoing a chemical reaction as it dries - producing long and
I guess branched chains. If the mating surfaces have pores or protrusions large enough ( I
think 220 grit or more course) and are close enough together, the bond should be
adequate. Most fillers seem to have a rough surface. As long as it is not brittle, or weak
or does not have a glass-like surface, the PVA should work. If the surface IS glass-like, CA
would work better. If the filler itself is weak, no adhesive can mitigate that.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Gluing planks to a filler
Taking a step back and looking at this from a larger perspective,
I have what is probably an impertinent question about the core of this inquiry.
If there is to be a second (finish) layer of planking, why is a filler even being used?
Is the next layer so thin that it follows every dip of the subsurface?
If the planking is that thin, I would probably replace it with a more robust planking.
A filler is meant to fill holes, not do what Bondo does in auto body work?
Since it is being covered, looks do not matter.
If there is an error with a significant hollow, I would scab a piece of wood veneer there
and sand it to spec.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Y.T. in Gluing planks to a filler
Taking a step back and looking at this from a larger perspective,
I have what is probably an impertinent question about the core of this inquiry.
If there is to be a second (finish) layer of planking, why is a filler even being used?
Is the next layer so thin that it follows every dip of the subsurface?
If the planking is that thin, I would probably replace it with a more robust planking.
A filler is meant to fill holes, not do what Bondo does in auto body work?
Since it is being covered, looks do not matter.
If there is an error with a significant hollow, I would scab a piece of wood veneer there
and sand it to spec.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Gluing planks to a filler
PVA - bonds by undergoing a chemical reaction as it dries - producing long and
I guess branched chains. If the mating surfaces have pores or protrusions large enough ( I
think 220 grit or more course) and are close enough together, the bond should be
adequate. Most fillers seem to have a rough surface. As long as it is not brittle, or weak
or does not have a glass-like surface, the PVA should work. If the surface IS glass-like, CA
would work better. If the filler itself is weak, no adhesive can mitigate that.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Peter Y. in Gluing planks to a filler
PVA - bonds by undergoing a chemical reaction as it dries - producing long and
I guess branched chains. If the mating surfaces have pores or protrusions large enough ( I
think 220 grit or more course) and are close enough together, the bond should be
adequate. Most fillers seem to have a rough surface. As long as it is not brittle, or weak
or does not have a glass-like surface, the PVA should work. If the surface IS glass-like, CA
would work better. If the filler itself is weak, no adhesive can mitigate that.
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Jaager got a reaction from lmagna in bending planks
You need heat to loosen the lignin bonds to bend the wood.
Lignin is not affected by water. The water is to increase the efficiency
of heat transfer into the body of the wood. A short soak, and just enough heat
- it is not useful to burn the wood or scorch it even.
A heat gun, a soldering iron (the old commercial bending irons were just a soldering iron
with French curve metal attachment), or of late, we have colleagues who have done
serious bending using a generic curling iron.
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Jaager got a reaction from genericDave in Byrnes table saw blade for cutting planks
Thru experience, I have learned that the cutting does not happen the way one might wish.
The blade has to remove the wood that it cuts, This translates into - the thicker the stock,
the fewer teeth and deeper gullet for the blade. The thicker the stock - the degree of set on the teeth
has an effect on cutting efficiency. No set and a thin blade = smooth cut surface and less wood loss
to kerf, but if can - the blade will burn the cut surface due to friction - will want to bind and may flex.
With a selection of blades, for any stock thickness, the goal is to find the blade with the most teeth, lowest set,
thinnest body that will cut without binding, burning, wobbling and unacceptable kickback ( it hurts getting hit in the belly
with a piece of thrown planking.)
Start with the most aggressive blade and work to the finest that will work.
Unfortunately, the slitting blades are pretty much limited to doing just that, making grating mortise and such like.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Triomphant 1809
L'Ocean - a Sane' designed 118 gun - launched 1790 as Les Etats de Bourgogne
Gerard Delacroix authored a significant monograph of the lead ship of this class Le Commerce de Marseille
The colors he provides for late 18th C. The same for the AAMM monograph for a 74 = Le Superbe 1785
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Byrnes table saw blade for cutting planks
Thru experience, I have learned that the cutting does not happen the way one might wish.
The blade has to remove the wood that it cuts, This translates into - the thicker the stock,
the fewer teeth and deeper gullet for the blade. The thicker the stock - the degree of set on the teeth
has an effect on cutting efficiency. No set and a thin blade = smooth cut surface and less wood loss
to kerf, but if can - the blade will burn the cut surface due to friction - will want to bind and may flex.
With a selection of blades, for any stock thickness, the goal is to find the blade with the most teeth, lowest set,
thinnest body that will cut without binding, burning, wobbling and unacceptable kickback ( it hurts getting hit in the belly
with a piece of thrown planking.)
Start with the most aggressive blade and work to the finest that will work.
Unfortunately, the slitting blades are pretty much limited to doing just that, making grating mortise and such like.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in metric scales
First we define the terms and scales.
1:96 or 1/8" = 1' is a semi miniature scale often used in ship modeling
although it is 1/2 museum scale (1:48) in any one dimension - the final subject - being a 3D construct is 1/8th the volume
of a museum scale model. It is difficult at best to try to be precise with scantlings in miniature scale- how it looks to the eye
is more important. Under rather than over works better.
HO scale is 1:87 It is about 10% larger than 1:96
You have not stated your actual scale for your model.
With your 7" value - I was thinking thickness, but a contemporary liner would be 4" thick on the main gun deck -
so width it is. the outside limit would be 10" -
1/16th inch is 5.4" in scale .
At 1:96 that is going to look "busy" for plank width.
Get the 1/16" - but use that for the thickness. Use a steel straight edge and VERY sharp knife blade the slice off the plank width from
that. Given the small scale involved, the most I would recommend as far as caulking rep is to add a slight walnut dye to the glue at the
plank edges.
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