Jaager
-
Posts
3,084 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Jaager got a reaction from Nirvana in Workshop Advice
If the problem is the dust settling out in a long run of a large diameter pipe,
then removing the dust early in the system would solve it. Place the cyclone
trap close to the intake part - it is silent and passive. The manifold piping and
valves cold be replaced with just moving the 5 gal bucket with the trap from machine to machine.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Nirvana in Workshop Advice
Bob,
I was thinking that a vac will pull the same volume of air / unit of time irrespective
of the pipe diameter from infinity to a diameter that is small enough to offer significant
resistance to flow. The suction at the business end would depend on the aperture.
If the problem is with the flow being sufficient to keep the suspended material in the air
stream and not settle out inside the tube, I can see where the kinetic energy within the air
stream would be affected by the pipe diameter ( the other factors being constant). I guess
this is another Dennis Moore type situation.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mischief in Rat line tension tool
JMS,
My comments on size were not directed at your work. I apologize for
my wording that makes it seem so. I was influenced by pix of
recently finished models. I am thinking that in general,
the ratlines should be much less than the shrouds they are tied to.
Your jig is very clever. It would also work well with a bubble level to
assist in keeping the line horizontal.
An old technique was to sew the actual ratline thru each of the shrouds
and then cover the join with a knot from a separate line trimmed off.
I had dismissed this, but with your jig and using a line that is finer than
the ratline itself to make the knot, the result may look better.
The clove hitch using the actual ratline has always looked a bit "fat" to me
and has done for about 40 years now. Using a thinner line should fix the problem
of scale with the knot. If the knot material was saturated with diluted
neutral pH bookbinders PVA, it should hold well and the ends trim off cleanly.
Sorry, more arm chair experimenting here.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Rat line tension tool
This is an excellent idea.
I wonder how it would work out to use the paper grid and with this tool,
instead of working from the top and bottom, to do
top-bottom- middle - and then the mid point of the two open
spaces. then fill in. This could reduce the effect of a creeping
compound error.
I am also wondering if the result would look better if the size of
the ratline rope was somewhat less than the literal reproduction
of the actual scale diameter. The horizontal lines would then fade
into the background a bit - which I am thinking would be the way
it would have actually looked.
Looking at grid-like components - such as window muntins and
gratings - given scale effect - would they look more pleasing to the
eye if they had reduced scantlings from actual scale?
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Rat line tension tool
JMS,
My comments on size were not directed at your work. I apologize for
my wording that makes it seem so. I was influenced by pix of
recently finished models. I am thinking that in general,
the ratlines should be much less than the shrouds they are tied to.
Your jig is very clever. It would also work well with a bubble level to
assist in keeping the line horizontal.
An old technique was to sew the actual ratline thru each of the shrouds
and then cover the join with a knot from a separate line trimmed off.
I had dismissed this, but with your jig and using a line that is finer than
the ratline itself to make the knot, the result may look better.
The clove hitch using the actual ratline has always looked a bit "fat" to me
and has done for about 40 years now. Using a thinner line should fix the problem
of scale with the knot. If the knot material was saturated with diluted
neutral pH bookbinders PVA, it should hold well and the ends trim off cleanly.
Sorry, more arm chair experimenting here.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Rat line tension tool
This is an excellent idea.
I wonder how it would work out to use the paper grid and with this tool,
instead of working from the top and bottom, to do
top-bottom- middle - and then the mid point of the two open
spaces. then fill in. This could reduce the effect of a creeping
compound error.
I am also wondering if the result would look better if the size of
the ratline rope was somewhat less than the literal reproduction
of the actual scale diameter. The horizontal lines would then fade
into the background a bit - which I am thinking would be the way
it would have actually looked.
Looking at grid-like components - such as window muntins and
gratings - given scale effect - would they look more pleasing to the
eye if they had reduced scantlings from actual scale?
-
Jaager got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Rat line tension tool
JMS,
My comments on size were not directed at your work. I apologize for
my wording that makes it seem so. I was influenced by pix of
recently finished models. I am thinking that in general,
the ratlines should be much less than the shrouds they are tied to.
Your jig is very clever. It would also work well with a bubble level to
assist in keeping the line horizontal.
An old technique was to sew the actual ratline thru each of the shrouds
and then cover the join with a knot from a separate line trimmed off.
I had dismissed this, but with your jig and using a line that is finer than
the ratline itself to make the knot, the result may look better.
The clove hitch using the actual ratline has always looked a bit "fat" to me
and has done for about 40 years now. Using a thinner line should fix the problem
of scale with the knot. If the knot material was saturated with diluted
neutral pH bookbinders PVA, it should hold well and the ends trim off cleanly.
Sorry, more arm chair experimenting here.
-
Jaager got a reaction from EJ_L in Rat line tension tool
This is an excellent idea.
I wonder how it would work out to use the paper grid and with this tool,
instead of working from the top and bottom, to do
top-bottom- middle - and then the mid point of the two open
spaces. then fill in. This could reduce the effect of a creeping
compound error.
I am also wondering if the result would look better if the size of
the ratline rope was somewhat less than the literal reproduction
of the actual scale diameter. The horizontal lines would then fade
into the background a bit - which I am thinking would be the way
it would have actually looked.
Looking at grid-like components - such as window muntins and
gratings - given scale effect - would they look more pleasing to the
eye if they had reduced scantlings from actual scale?
-
Jaager got a reaction from Seventynet in Poor results with carpenters glue
If I read this correctly: you are concerned about PVA-yellow having too weak a bond based on a temporary
bond being reversed too easily?
First - I think you were lucky that it reversed without major damage. A different type of glue would be more suited
for the temp function - although spot and IsoOH to dissolve would work - I just would tend to use too big a spot.
If both surfaces are totally covered before bonding, I think the "joint starve" problem is a fiction.
The glue works by undergoing a chemical reaction - polymerization - as it dries. It essentially forms a plastic material.
With wood, I am very skeptical that all of the glue could be squeezed out - the wood fibers would crush at the clamp face
before that happened.
The stronger the clamping force- the stronger the bond. Although it is not realistic, the bond would be best if a single chain
could reach both wood surfaces. A bigger problem is the nature of the wood surface. More bite is better. I suspect that
my compulsion to use 220 grit is right at the point of the surface being too smooth.
With planking - I doubt too much force is a practical problem - too little is much more likely.
The wood surface should be free of any substance that could interfere with the penetration of the micro chains of polyvinyl as they
assemble.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Workshop Advice
If the problem is the dust settling out in a long run of a large diameter pipe,
then removing the dust early in the system would solve it. Place the cyclone
trap close to the intake part - it is silent and passive. The manifold piping and
valves cold be replaced with just moving the 5 gal bucket with the trap from machine to machine.
-
Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Workshop Advice
If the problem is the dust settling out in a long run of a large diameter pipe,
then removing the dust early in the system would solve it. Place the cyclone
trap close to the intake part - it is silent and passive. The manifold piping and
valves cold be replaced with just moving the 5 gal bucket with the trap from machine to machine.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Workshop Advice
Bob,
I was thinking that a vac will pull the same volume of air / unit of time irrespective
of the pipe diameter from infinity to a diameter that is small enough to offer significant
resistance to flow. The suction at the business end would depend on the aperture.
If the problem is with the flow being sufficient to keep the suspended material in the air
stream and not settle out inside the tube, I can see where the kinetic energy within the air
stream would be affected by the pipe diameter ( the other factors being constant). I guess
this is another Dennis Moore type situation.
-
Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Workshop Advice
Bob,
I was thinking that a vac will pull the same volume of air / unit of time irrespective
of the pipe diameter from infinity to a diameter that is small enough to offer significant
resistance to flow. The suction at the business end would depend on the aperture.
If the problem is with the flow being sufficient to keep the suspended material in the air
stream and not settle out inside the tube, I can see where the kinetic energy within the air
stream would be affected by the pipe diameter ( the other factors being constant). I guess
this is another Dennis Moore type situation.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Nirvana in Workshop Advice
1. From my research lab days : bench space, bench space, bench space -- you can never have enough bench space.
Three walls and you have space for 3 benches. Have one higher than desk height.
Inexpensive flush interior doors - make good bench tops - glue on a plastic/vinyl surface. They come in variety of widths.
The deeper - the better you will like it. Cheap cabinet units and 2 drawer file cabinets make good bench top supports.
The tools you have will produce a LOT of dust.
2. If you can manage it - have the vac as far away ( and outside if possible ) I have no experience with Festool - but everything else
is noisy. I have to use occlusive head phone type protectors. You can have ABS piping in the ceiling going to the vac. One of the guys here
has photos of his setup with the solid vac pipes - with shut off valves since he has exhaust dedicated to each machine.
3. A cyclone trap in line will save you from having to clean the vac filter very often. You will probably be glad you did, if you get a vac that is
more powerful than you think you will need.
4. You can never have enough light.
5. Lots of shelves - high up on the walls.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Nirvana in Workshop Advice
Bob,
Pharmacology here.
Thanks for clarifying. My basic education mostly involved linear Arithmetic and
Mother Nature's Math is Calculus. My intuition is based on the wrong Math so I
am constantly surprised by how things really work. What impressed me the most
about the equation was that it does not take much change in diameter to produce
a profound effect on air flow in the lungs or blood flow to the heart, etc. - that the
smooth muscles that regulate do not need to constrict or contract all that much to
do their job. It does not help intuition that Pharmacology tends to use a 16 oz hammer
to do a job that a tack hammer would do better.
With the sealed type system being discussed here, Although using 4 inch piping for
the long runs may be more than is needed and more expensive is space and money,
it should not negatively effect the system. The question: does the reduced resistance
have a significant effect on the efficiency on the system and the stress on the vac motor?
-
Jaager got a reaction from Nirvana in Workshop Advice
To add some perspective - the formula for flow thru a tube:
( from Physiology / blood flow )
Flow = 4/3 x pi x radius cubed
What that means is that small changes is radius has a profound effect on flow.
Small changes can have large effects when it is multiplied by itself 3 times.
A 2.5" pipe has 15 times the flow of a 1" pipe.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Poor results with carpenters glue
Expecting that all PVA brands should behave in a similar way:
I use Titebond II - I squeeze a working quantity onto a piece of
wax paper. The left over material goes from an opaque tan/cream
to a clear amber an no matter how many layers build up - ( I use the
same piece of wax paper for a long time) the dried and polymerized
glue is flexible. If what you have is brittle when dried - it is likely a bad
lot.
-
Jaager got a reaction from jud in Workshop Advice
To add some perspective - the formula for flow thru a tube:
( from Physiology / blood flow )
Flow = 4/3 x pi x radius cubed
What that means is that small changes is radius has a profound effect on flow.
Small changes can have large effects when it is multiplied by itself 3 times.
A 2.5" pipe has 15 times the flow of a 1" pipe.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Workshop Advice
To add some perspective - the formula for flow thru a tube:
( from Physiology / blood flow )
Flow = 4/3 x pi x radius cubed
What that means is that small changes is radius has a profound effect on flow.
Small changes can have large effects when it is multiplied by itself 3 times.
A 2.5" pipe has 15 times the flow of a 1" pipe.
-
Jaager got a reaction from WackoWolf in Workshop Advice
To add some perspective - the formula for flow thru a tube:
( from Physiology / blood flow )
Flow = 4/3 x pi x radius cubed
What that means is that small changes is radius has a profound effect on flow.
Small changes can have large effects when it is multiplied by itself 3 times.
A 2.5" pipe has 15 times the flow of a 1" pipe.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Poor results with carpenters glue
Expecting that all PVA brands should behave in a similar way:
I use Titebond II - I squeeze a working quantity onto a piece of
wax paper. The left over material goes from an opaque tan/cream
to a clear amber an no matter how many layers build up - ( I use the
same piece of wax paper for a long time) the dried and polymerized
glue is flexible. If what you have is brittle when dried - it is likely a bad
lot.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Sanding Machines for Scale Modeling video now up ...
Paul is dead on about the MicroMark 5 inch disk sander. It is the one that I have
and it is noisy and the RPM are too high. I slow it down a bit with an old Dremel
Solid State speed control - from before Dremel rotary machines had on board speed
controls - but the loss of torque follows a curve function instead of a straight line so
it does not slow down all that much. I only work with wood so the speed is acceptable.
It does run true though.
One addition I made was to use cardboard from a box to enclose all three sides of the underside of the table and
behind the disk and insert a crevice tool thru a slot to vac the copious dust produced.
A simple port under the table is not as efficient.
I also agree about the tilt function for a spindle sander being an essentially useless feature.
Frame bevels follow a continuous change and free hand is about the only way to shape them.
I can see no utility for the up/down oscillation function though.
Harbor Freight has a 4 inch belt sander (I ignore the disk part) back on sale for $60 - but
Paul is also correct about real estate needed and it being useless for inside curves. With 60 grit
medium - it will eat thru wood fairly fast.
The combo sander with a 1 inch belt and disk would be of questionable utility if it were $10.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Poor results with carpenters glue
If I read this correctly: you are concerned about PVA-yellow having too weak a bond based on a temporary
bond being reversed too easily?
First - I think you were lucky that it reversed without major damage. A different type of glue would be more suited
for the temp function - although spot and IsoOH to dissolve would work - I just would tend to use too big a spot.
If both surfaces are totally covered before bonding, I think the "joint starve" problem is a fiction.
The glue works by undergoing a chemical reaction - polymerization - as it dries. It essentially forms a plastic material.
With wood, I am very skeptical that all of the glue could be squeezed out - the wood fibers would crush at the clamp face
before that happened.
The stronger the clamping force- the stronger the bond. Although it is not realistic, the bond would be best if a single chain
could reach both wood surfaces. A bigger problem is the nature of the wood surface. More bite is better. I suspect that
my compulsion to use 220 grit is right at the point of the surface being too smooth.
With planking - I doubt too much force is a practical problem - too little is much more likely.
The wood surface should be free of any substance that could interfere with the penetration of the micro chains of polyvinyl as they
assemble.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Poor results with carpenters glue
If I read this correctly: you are concerned about PVA-yellow having too weak a bond based on a temporary
bond being reversed too easily?
First - I think you were lucky that it reversed without major damage. A different type of glue would be more suited
for the temp function - although spot and IsoOH to dissolve would work - I just would tend to use too big a spot.
If both surfaces are totally covered before bonding, I think the "joint starve" problem is a fiction.
The glue works by undergoing a chemical reaction - polymerization - as it dries. It essentially forms a plastic material.
With wood, I am very skeptical that all of the glue could be squeezed out - the wood fibers would crush at the clamp face
before that happened.
The stronger the clamping force- the stronger the bond. Although it is not realistic, the bond would be best if a single chain
could reach both wood surfaces. A bigger problem is the nature of the wood surface. More bite is better. I suspect that
my compulsion to use 220 grit is right at the point of the surface being too smooth.
With planking - I doubt too much force is a practical problem - too little is much more likely.
The wood surface should be free of any substance that could interfere with the penetration of the micro chains of polyvinyl as they
assemble.
-
Jaager got a reaction from pompey2 in Sanding Machines for Scale Modeling video now up ...
Paul is dead on about the MicroMark 5 inch disk sander. It is the one that I have
and it is noisy and the RPM are too high. I slow it down a bit with an old Dremel
Solid State speed control - from before Dremel rotary machines had on board speed
controls - but the loss of torque follows a curve function instead of a straight line so
it does not slow down all that much. I only work with wood so the speed is acceptable.
It does run true though.
One addition I made was to use cardboard from a box to enclose all three sides of the underside of the table and
behind the disk and insert a crevice tool thru a slot to vac the copious dust produced.
A simple port under the table is not as efficient.
I also agree about the tilt function for a spindle sander being an essentially useless feature.
Frame bevels follow a continuous change and free hand is about the only way to shape them.
I can see no utility for the up/down oscillation function though.
Harbor Freight has a 4 inch belt sander (I ignore the disk part) back on sale for $60 - but
Paul is also correct about real estate needed and it being useless for inside curves. With 60 grit
medium - it will eat thru wood fairly fast.
The combo sander with a 1 inch belt and disk would be of questionable utility if it were $10.
Our Emblem ®
