Jaager

If you are interested in staying near scale, 1:48 = a 1 inch trunnel would  be 0.0208" in diameter.. that is a # 75 or 76 wire gauge dowel - close enough in metric is 0.52 mm- 0.55 mm.  I would probably find that a # 75  bamboo dowel would need a # 72-# 73  hole to get a push fit that would not grab and snap the dowel.   A 2 inch  would be #58  or 1 mm  @ 1:48.  This is pretty much the practical range.  For hidden dowels - a # 50 dowel  is pretty strong and does not displace too much of the wood - that is 1.8 mm.  So, if you stick with metric,  the practical limit at the lower end is # 80  and these are difficult to mount - that is 0.35 mm   - so as wide a variety of sizes between 0.35 mm and 2 mm  should stand you in good stead.  The lower end is more important.
 
It is difficult not to have an occasional "Parkinson twitch" when hand drilling - and snapping a bit - I think you would get longer use and more accurate placement if you pre-drill using a drill press where possible.  A Eurotool DRL-300 - sold under a variety local company names - has worked for me- and
if you pay more than $80 US equivalent - you are paying too much.  A helpful addition is a momentary foot switch - which should not be more than $20 US for a good enough unit -  fix it to a board.

John,   Holly is a difficult wood to season.  The piece you have has probably been infected with Blue Mold.  It is grey or blue and it discolors the wood. 
The good aspect is that it only discolors, it does not rot. You can use it with no worry.  I was working Holly logs into billets and as the band saw blade approached the end it was pushing water ahead of it,  so communication inside the wood is easy.  Most who want Holly are after the snow white effect.  To preserve that, Holly must be harvested in Winter and rushed to a kiln to stay ahead of the Blue Mold.  For most of our uses,  it does not matter.  In your case, it makes for a more realistic decking color.  Holly takes well to wood dyes and makes for an easier to use Ebony when dyed black and the mold does not matter  It bends like a champ,so is good for hull planking, it just looks better dyed or painted.  The scale effect of the grain is about as good as it gets.
 
BCD,  
Open pore species- such as Oak, Ash, Hickory, Black Walnut - do not scale well, so are maybe not among the better choices. 
 
Basswood in pre-scribed sheets is what kits used to provide for decks.  The wood scales well and will work as individual planks.  It is just too
soft and ready to fuzz for my taste.
Yellow Poplar is light weight and easy to work and stays crisp.  You have to be picky about the planks unless you want a greenish deck.
Soft Maple might get you some grey effect in areas of a board, but mostly it is close to white.  It is soft, and can fuzz or be brittle.  As a horticultural specimen  Soft (Water) Maple is a weed.
 
Hard Maple will make for a good deck if you want something that looks like Rupp Arena.
Sycamore ( American ) is brittle and has a pattern that is too busy ( an alternate name is Lacewood ).
What the English call Sycamore is a species of Maple that is close but not quite as hard as Hard Maple.

Marquardt has a dog sculpture and a scroll as options. I'm pretty sure it would take a wayback machine to know for sure.
Unless new data becomes available, which ever option you choose can not be authoritatively refuted.

A rabbet in the keel is about the only place I can see this sort of cut being used AND  a rabbet varies in slope and angle as the garboard changes conformation, it would not be appropriate here.  For notches in beams and clamps, a milling cutter would offer more control and be much safer.
A table saw is my idea of the most dangerous tool we use - a last resort choice.

If you are interested in staying near scale, 1:48 = a 1 inch trunnel would  be 0.0208" in diameter.. that is a # 75 or 76 wire gauge dowel - close enough in metric is 0.52 mm- 0.55 mm.  I would probably find that a # 75  bamboo dowel would need a # 72-# 73  hole to get a push fit that would not grab and snap the dowel.   A 2 inch  would be #58  or 1 mm  @ 1:48.  This is pretty much the practical range.  For hidden dowels - a # 50 dowel  is pretty strong and does not displace too much of the wood - that is 1.8 mm.  So, if you stick with metric,  the practical limit at the lower end is # 80  and these are difficult to mount - that is 0.35 mm   - so as wide a variety of sizes between 0.35 mm and 2 mm  should stand you in good stead.  The lower end is more important.
 
It is difficult not to have an occasional "Parkinson twitch" when hand drilling - and snapping a bit - I think you would get longer use and more accurate placement if you pre-drill using a drill press where possible.  A Eurotool DRL-300 - sold under a variety local company names - has worked for me- and
if you pay more than $80 US equivalent - you are paying too much.  A helpful addition is a momentary foot switch - which should not be more than $20 US for a good enough unit -  fix it to a board.

If you are interested in staying near scale, 1:48 = a 1 inch trunnel would  be 0.0208" in diameter.. that is a # 75 or 76 wire gauge dowel - close enough in metric is 0.52 mm- 0.55 mm.  I would probably find that a # 75  bamboo dowel would need a # 72-# 73  hole to get a push fit that would not grab and snap the dowel.   A 2 inch  would be #58  or 1 mm  @ 1:48.  This is pretty much the practical range.  For hidden dowels - a # 50 dowel  is pretty strong and does not displace too much of the wood - that is 1.8 mm.  So, if you stick with metric,  the practical limit at the lower end is # 80  and these are difficult to mount - that is 0.35 mm   - so as wide a variety of sizes between 0.35 mm and 2 mm  should stand you in good stead.  The lower end is more important.
 
It is difficult not to have an occasional "Parkinson twitch" when hand drilling - and snapping a bit - I think you would get longer use and more accurate placement if you pre-drill using a drill press where possible.  A Eurotool DRL-300 - sold under a variety local company names - has worked for me- and
if you pay more than $80 US equivalent - you are paying too much.  A helpful addition is a momentary foot switch - which should not be more than $20 US for a good enough unit -  fix it to a board.

A rabbet in the keel is about the only place I can see this sort of cut being used AND  a rabbet varies in slope and angle as the garboard changes conformation, it would not be appropriate here.  For notches in beams and clamps, a milling cutter would offer more control and be much safer.
A table saw is my idea of the most dangerous tool we use - a last resort choice.

A rabbet in the keel is about the only place I can see this sort of cut being used AND  a rabbet varies in slope and angle as the garboard changes conformation, it would not be appropriate here.  For notches in beams and clamps, a milling cutter would offer more control and be much safer.
A table saw is my idea of the most dangerous tool we use - a last resort choice.

A rabbet in the keel is about the only place I can see this sort of cut being used AND  a rabbet varies in slope and angle as the garboard changes conformation, it would not be appropriate here.  For notches in beams and clamps, a milling cutter would offer more control and be much safer.
A table saw is my idea of the most dangerous tool we use - a last resort choice.

If you are interested in staying near scale, 1:48 = a 1 inch trunnel would  be 0.0208" in diameter.. that is a # 75 or 76 wire gauge dowel - close enough in metric is 0.52 mm- 0.55 mm.  I would probably find that a # 75  bamboo dowel would need a # 72-# 73  hole to get a push fit that would not grab and snap the dowel.   A 2 inch  would be #58  or 1 mm  @ 1:48.  This is pretty much the practical range.  For hidden dowels - a # 50 dowel  is pretty strong and does not displace too much of the wood - that is 1.8 mm.  So, if you stick with metric,  the practical limit at the lower end is # 80  and these are difficult to mount - that is 0.35 mm   - so as wide a variety of sizes between 0.35 mm and 2 mm  should stand you in good stead.  The lower end is more important.
 
It is difficult not to have an occasional "Parkinson twitch" when hand drilling - and snapping a bit - I think you would get longer use and more accurate placement if you pre-drill using a drill press where possible.  A Eurotool DRL-300 - sold under a variety local company names - has worked for me- and
if you pay more than $80 US equivalent - you are paying too much.  A helpful addition is a momentary foot switch - which should not be more than $20 US for a good enough unit -  fix it to a board.

UV may also provide energy and a more efficient wave length of light to accelerate oxidation of organic compounds.
Cellulose can break down. That is wood - but given the thickness, that is likely a very long process.  Cotton or linen
rigging is much more vulnerable.  If you used a synthetic polymer as rigging material, the UV light can catalyze a
further crosslinking - the reaction that produced the polymer - and turn it from flexible to rigid and brittle.
If you are getting direct sun light, everything else in the room might be happier if the glass in the window contained
a UV blocker.  I think there are two types of blocker-  one to block the high frequency waves - that are mostly destructive -
and one for the lower frequency waves that house plants use and would not be good to block if you have plants.
 
Another factor is IR (heat) - factors in the glass of a case and the small enclosed space itself can allow micro areas of
heat that could be much higher than ambient temp.  The rule is: the rate of a chemical reaction doubles for every 10 degrees C. increase in temp.

My observations are:
 
In warships- wales are to mitigate the weakness produced by cutting large holes in the side of a ship and are generally
at the port sills and below, since cutting a wale would negate any usefulness.  They also  resist the tendency of the hull
to hog in all ships and in warships , a source of stress would be the guns - at the side and the heaviest are just above the
waterline, so the heaviest wales are there.  The trick was to find the sweet spot- as low as possible, but not too low. The Vasa
taught European ship designers what happens if they got that wrong.
 
In the 16th C. and 17th C. the wales tended to be purely functional, and stuck out.  By the end of the time of wood and sail, the
wales were often masked by having the planking smoothly transition in cross section.  The increase in thickness of the transition
plank would add strength, but also be more expensive in both wood and carpenters' time.  I suspect that early wales that extended
below the waterline had an adverse effect of speed and handling, so they tend to be above the waterline in their lowest extent - until
 the transition technique was developed.

My observations are:
 
In warships- wales are to mitigate the weakness produced by cutting large holes in the side of a ship and are generally
at the port sills and below, since cutting a wale would negate any usefulness.  They also  resist the tendency of the hull
to hog in all ships and in warships , a source of stress would be the guns - at the side and the heaviest are just above the
waterline, so the heaviest wales are there.  The trick was to find the sweet spot- as low as possible, but not too low. The Vasa
taught European ship designers what happens if they got that wrong.
 
In the 16th C. and 17th C. the wales tended to be purely functional, and stuck out.  By the end of the time of wood and sail, the
wales were often masked by having the planking smoothly transition in cross section.  The increase in thickness of the transition
plank would add strength, but also be more expensive in both wood and carpenters' time.  I suspect that early wales that extended
below the waterline had an adverse effect of speed and handling, so they tend to be above the waterline in their lowest extent - until
 the transition technique was developed.

If I remember correctly:  width : 1 inch wider on each side than the width of the main yard and 2 inches beyond the jib and mizzen boom.
So, 2 inches wider than the widest part of the model and 4 inches longer. 
I suspect things are different for miniature scale, but your model is 42% of museum scale in volume and 75% in length and width.
Perhaps 1.5" and 3" would work.

My observations are:
 
In warships- wales are to mitigate the weakness produced by cutting large holes in the side of a ship and are generally
at the port sills and below, since cutting a wale would negate any usefulness.  They also  resist the tendency of the hull
to hog in all ships and in warships , a source of stress would be the guns - at the side and the heaviest are just above the
waterline, so the heaviest wales are there.  The trick was to find the sweet spot- as low as possible, but not too low. The Vasa
taught European ship designers what happens if they got that wrong.
 
In the 16th C. and 17th C. the wales tended to be purely functional, and stuck out.  By the end of the time of wood and sail, the
wales were often masked by having the planking smoothly transition in cross section.  The increase in thickness of the transition
plank would add strength, but also be more expensive in both wood and carpenters' time.  I suspect that early wales that extended
below the waterline had an adverse effect of speed and handling, so they tend to be above the waterline in their lowest extent - until
 the transition technique was developed.

UV may also provide energy and a more efficient wave length of light to accelerate oxidation of organic compounds.
Cellulose can break down. That is wood - but given the thickness, that is likely a very long process.  Cotton or linen
rigging is much more vulnerable.  If you used a synthetic polymer as rigging material, the UV light can catalyze a
further crosslinking - the reaction that produced the polymer - and turn it from flexible to rigid and brittle.
If you are getting direct sun light, everything else in the room might be happier if the glass in the window contained
a UV blocker.  I think there are two types of blocker-  one to block the high frequency waves - that are mostly destructive -
and one for the lower frequency waves that house plants use and would not be good to block if you have plants.
 
Another factor is IR (heat) - factors in the glass of a case and the small enclosed space itself can allow micro areas of
heat that could be much higher than ambient temp.  The rule is: the rate of a chemical reaction doubles for every 10 degrees C. increase in temp.

My observations are:
 
In warships- wales are to mitigate the weakness produced by cutting large holes in the side of a ship and are generally
at the port sills and below, since cutting a wale would negate any usefulness.  They also  resist the tendency of the hull
to hog in all ships and in warships , a source of stress would be the guns - at the side and the heaviest are just above the
waterline, so the heaviest wales are there.  The trick was to find the sweet spot- as low as possible, but not too low. The Vasa
taught European ship designers what happens if they got that wrong.
 
In the 16th C. and 17th C. the wales tended to be purely functional, and stuck out.  By the end of the time of wood and sail, the
wales were often masked by having the planking smoothly transition in cross section.  The increase in thickness of the transition
plank would add strength, but also be more expensive in both wood and carpenters' time.  I suspect that early wales that extended
below the waterline had an adverse effect of speed and handling, so they tend to be above the waterline in their lowest extent - until
 the transition technique was developed.

UV may also provide energy and a more efficient wave length of light to accelerate oxidation of organic compounds.
Cellulose can break down. That is wood - but given the thickness, that is likely a very long process.  Cotton or linen
rigging is much more vulnerable.  If you used a synthetic polymer as rigging material, the UV light can catalyze a
further crosslinking - the reaction that produced the polymer - and turn it from flexible to rigid and brittle.
If you are getting direct sun light, everything else in the room might be happier if the glass in the window contained
a UV blocker.  I think there are two types of blocker-  one to block the high frequency waves - that are mostly destructive -
and one for the lower frequency waves that house plants use and would not be good to block if you have plants.
 
Another factor is IR (heat) - factors in the glass of a case and the small enclosed space itself can allow micro areas of
heat that could be much higher than ambient temp.  The rule is: the rate of a chemical reaction doubles for every 10 degrees C. increase in temp.

UV may also provide energy and a more efficient wave length of light to accelerate oxidation of organic compounds.
Cellulose can break down. That is wood - but given the thickness, that is likely a very long process.  Cotton or linen
rigging is much more vulnerable.  If you used a synthetic polymer as rigging material, the UV light can catalyze a
further crosslinking - the reaction that produced the polymer - and turn it from flexible to rigid and brittle.
If you are getting direct sun light, everything else in the room might be happier if the glass in the window contained
a UV blocker.  I think there are two types of blocker-  one to block the high frequency waves - that are mostly destructive -
and one for the lower frequency waves that house plants use and would not be good to block if you have plants.
 
Another factor is IR (heat) - factors in the glass of a case and the small enclosed space itself can allow micro areas of
heat that could be much higher than ambient temp.  The rule is: the rate of a chemical reaction doubles for every 10 degrees C. increase in temp.

UV may also provide energy and a more efficient wave length of light to accelerate oxidation of organic compounds.
Cellulose can break down. That is wood - but given the thickness, that is likely a very long process.  Cotton or linen
rigging is much more vulnerable.  If you used a synthetic polymer as rigging material, the UV light can catalyze a
further crosslinking - the reaction that produced the polymer - and turn it from flexible to rigid and brittle.
If you are getting direct sun light, everything else in the room might be happier if the glass in the window contained
a UV blocker.  I think there are two types of blocker-  one to block the high frequency waves - that are mostly destructive -
and one for the lower frequency waves that house plants use and would not be good to block if you have plants.
 
Another factor is IR (heat) - factors in the glass of a case and the small enclosed space itself can allow micro areas of
heat that could be much higher than ambient temp.  The rule is: the rate of a chemical reaction doubles for every 10 degrees C. increase in temp.

UV may also provide energy and a more efficient wave length of light to accelerate oxidation of organic compounds.
Cellulose can break down. That is wood - but given the thickness, that is likely a very long process.  Cotton or linen
rigging is much more vulnerable.  If you used a synthetic polymer as rigging material, the UV light can catalyze a
further crosslinking - the reaction that produced the polymer - and turn it from flexible to rigid and brittle.
If you are getting direct sun light, everything else in the room might be happier if the glass in the window contained
a UV blocker.  I think there are two types of blocker-  one to block the high frequency waves - that are mostly destructive -
and one for the lower frequency waves that house plants use and would not be good to block if you have plants.
 
Another factor is IR (heat) - factors in the glass of a case and the small enclosed space itself can allow micro areas of
heat that could be much higher than ambient temp.  The rule is: the rate of a chemical reaction doubles for every 10 degrees C. increase in temp.

My take on lacquer:
Spraying is the preferred method of application.
It is available for brush application.
It can develop into layer that has significant thickness.
I use it to coat timber patterns from my printer.
Three coats produces a pattern that is similar to having the patterns printed on Mylar.
I have over come my compulsion and only apply one coat now.
It dries fast and a repeat coat can be applied after 2 hrs when brushed. Spray may have a shorter time.
The solvent is an irritating gemisch of organic chemicals. There is a "green" version of lacquer thinner, but I 
do not find it any less obnoxious that the standard tinner. While a mask may protect against airborne material, 
when sprayed. it will not protect from the solvent vapors. They are a gas as is air.  If you can breathe thru the
mask, the solvent vapor will also get thru.  You need a separate air supply when spraying or good ventilation 
when brushed.
 
I think shellac, and the oils like Tung and linseed form much thinner layers. 
The problem I have with lacquer is the finish is too thick on a model, it is usually too glossy and would have a model
looking like a toy instead of a subtle piece of art.

Steve is correct - I am focused on 16th c. to 19th c. -  And for a lot of later vessels that do have high gloss on the original - when viewed from a distance that approximates the size of a model - often do not appear as glossy and paint colors are not as intense.  I think this is an aspect of scale effect.

Steve is correct - I am focused on 16th c. to 19th c. -  And for a lot of later vessels that do have high gloss on the original - when viewed from a distance that approximates the size of a model - often do not appear as glossy and paint colors are not as intense.  I think this is an aspect of scale effect.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5807-proxxon-micro-mbs-240e-band-saw-review/