Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Help with fairing Phantom solid hull
Making alterations and major fixes - this gets you into some aspects of scratch building. As long as your course is tending to the "dark side" you could consider a visit to a hardwood dealer and get some veneer of closed pore wood species and plank the hull instead of painting it. Get a light species like Maple and actually plank the deck. With veneer, you can use a #11 blade and a steel straight edge to cut out the planks - no expensive tools needed.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Help with fairing Phantom solid hull
If you trace the outline of the keel- stem- sternpost assembly and rubber cement it to thick cardboard or a piece of corrugated box - trim it to the inside dimension - fit it to the hull:
the hull is longer - trim the skeg back and it may be the 1/8" needed.
the hull is correct, just too thin -- glue a temporary sternpost that is the correct size - use liquid hide glue- fill out the skeg with a filler like Bondo and fair the hull. Once the shape matches the templates, the temp post can be removed - heat gun/hair dryer and water or rubbing alcohol that is 91% ethanol will undo the hide glue. The real unmarred post can now be fitted.
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Jaager got a reaction from Chasseur in Planking my Charles Morgan with African Blackwood - am I crazy?
If the African wood produces more problems than it is worth, you might consider a different tack.
Your original complaint is rooted in your choice to use a stain. Stain is essentially a paint - it covers.
You could get to your original goal by using a wood dye.
Aniline wood dyes come in two flavors - water base ( aqueous ) and alcohol based.
The aqueous soaks in more than the alcohol and may be clearer when finished. The cost is that it takes
longer to dry and the first application tends to raise the grain of the wood. The fix is to either fine sand
after the first application and then do another - which may produce an inconsistent finish - or treat the wood
with water or water with 1:10 PVA added to lock down the fibers - sand after and then apply the dye.
Dyes come in several primary colors as well as various wood shades. White is the one that will require a paint.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in 2nd Planking With Veneer
If it is Mahogany as the shade you like, take a look at Black Cherry. It is closed pore and the grain scales better than genuine Mahogany and much better than Lauan and other substitutes. Woodcraft has a 3 sq ft pack for $10 - although they do not provide the thickness. Since Black Cherry is not expensive in the States, it may be thicker than the exotic species. Generally, the characteristic that makes exotic woods popular is contrary to what we want - the grain.
You could also consider Birch or Beech and use a aqueous analine dye to get your desired color.
As for caulking - with scale effect - less is better. consider Walnut as a color rather than black and for thickness scale /2 .
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Jaager got a reaction from Julie Mo in 2nd Planking With Veneer
If it is Mahogany as the shade you like, take a look at Black Cherry. It is closed pore and the grain scales better than genuine Mahogany and much better than Lauan and other substitutes. Woodcraft has a 3 sq ft pack for $10 - although they do not provide the thickness. Since Black Cherry is not expensive in the States, it may be thicker than the exotic species. Generally, the characteristic that makes exotic woods popular is contrary to what we want - the grain.
You could also consider Birch or Beech and use a aqueous analine dye to get your desired color.
As for caulking - with scale effect - less is better. consider Walnut as a color rather than black and for thickness scale /2 .
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in 2nd Planking With Veneer
If it is Mahogany as the shade you like, take a look at Black Cherry. It is closed pore and the grain scales better than genuine Mahogany and much better than Lauan and other substitutes. Woodcraft has a 3 sq ft pack for $10 - although they do not provide the thickness. Since Black Cherry is not expensive in the States, it may be thicker than the exotic species. Generally, the characteristic that makes exotic woods popular is contrary to what we want - the grain.
You could also consider Birch or Beech and use a aqueous analine dye to get your desired color.
As for caulking - with scale effect - less is better. consider Walnut as a color rather than black and for thickness scale /2 .
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Jaager got a reaction from bbyford in Model Shipways Willie L. Bennett Questions
To get it on the record and this may come with the kit:
There is a full size guide that is 56 pages long.
WILLIE L BENNETT, CHESAPEAKE BAY SKIPJACK 1899
LANKFORD,BEN
MODEL SHIPWAYS
BOGOTA, NJ
1981
I believe "Old Ben" was the kit developer.
Other relevant publications:
NOTES ON CHESAPEAKE BAY SKIPJACKS 1944
CHAPELLE,H I
CHESAPEAKE BAY MARITIME MUSEUM
ST MICHAELS, MD
1981
SKIPJACK SAIL PLANS
RUBIN,NORMAN N
NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL
1978
24
72-73
19TH 20TH SAIL MASTING RIGGING FISHING
A
THE WILLIE L BENNETT AND NOTES ON OTHER CHESAPEAKE BAY SKIPJACK
LANKFORD,BEN
NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL
1983
29
61-83
19TH 20TH NA CONSTRUCTION MASTING RIGGING DECK HULL
A
SKIPJACK NOTES
HECKLINGER,FRED
NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL
1984
30
29
19TH 20TH SAIL FISHING RIGGING
A
CHESAPEAKE BAY SKIPJACK - A MIDWEST PRODUCTS KIT
EVANS,ROBERT L
SEAWAY'S SHIPS IN SCALE
1993
4-3
58-61
KIT 20TH SAIL FISHING
B
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Transfer measurements/markings
If you use John's method - the amount of distortion that your scanner introduces should probably be determined and corrected.
I used a transparent 15 cm ruler as a source and printed the scan of it. When matched to the original the scan has to be
X & Y scaled up by 102.5% to get the print to match the original.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Transfer measurements/markings
If you use John's method - the amount of distortion that your scanner introduces should probably be determined and corrected.
I used a transparent 15 cm ruler as a source and printed the scan of it. When matched to the original the scan has to be
X & Y scaled up by 102.5% to get the print to match the original.
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Jaager got a reaction from jud in Transfer measurements/markings
If you use John's method - the amount of distortion that your scanner introduces should probably be determined and corrected.
I used a transparent 15 cm ruler as a source and printed the scan of it. When matched to the original the scan has to be
X & Y scaled up by 102.5% to get the print to match the original.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in New to ship modelling, what wood to use?
No, not Navy, although they are close neighbors now. I was PHS.
Two LSD are in, but parked around the corner and a container ship
whose engine seems to have not worked for at least 10 years and I guess
belongs to the Reserves is hiding the Cyclones and and experimental
stealth twin hull vessels.
So, you have whatever is being substituted for White Pine these days,
or may be Eastern White Pine.
With a hardwood with a Janka hardness rating closer to 1000, the sharp edges stay
more crisp and do not ding as easily.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in New to ship modelling, what wood to use?
White Pine is a traditional species for a solid hull. The pine that you are getting is probably from a tree farm, a species or hybrid species chosen for rapid growth and a straight trunk. I would guess wide grain that is high contrast. It could also have gummy sap. Not a particularly good choice for model making.
Yellow Poplar is a good choice. It is a bit too soft for POF hull construction for my taste, but it will do the job well. With the proper cutting tools, Yellow Poplar should work well. I used it for a plug to make a 1840 1st launch and it cut and sanded well. It carves easily - you just need a sharp edge and fine touch to keep from removing more than intended. The only real downside is the green color if it is left natural and clear finished.
You do not identify your location - if you are in North America, see if there is a hardwood vendor in your area. Hard Maple and Black Cherry are at the low end of cost for a domestic, and are about as good as it gets for our use.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in gluing pre-stained wood
A wood dye should have no effect on a PVA bond. A stain is a surface coat - similar to paint - it would depend on the specific product - but there is a chance that a bond may fail because the stain seals the wood pores and blocks penetration of the glue polymers.
Your best bet is to do the experiment on scrap wood and determine the effect. The stain manufacturer could have altered the formulation and if someone had an answer from years ago, it may not apply to your situation.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in gluing pre-stained wood
A wood dye should have no effect on a PVA bond. A stain is a surface coat - similar to paint - it would depend on the specific product - but there is a chance that a bond may fail because the stain seals the wood pores and blocks penetration of the glue polymers.
Your best bet is to do the experiment on scrap wood and determine the effect. The stain manufacturer could have altered the formulation and if someone had an answer from years ago, it may not apply to your situation.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in New to ship modelling, what wood to use?
No, not Navy, although they are close neighbors now. I was PHS.
Two LSD are in, but parked around the corner and a container ship
whose engine seems to have not worked for at least 10 years and I guess
belongs to the Reserves is hiding the Cyclones and and experimental
stealth twin hull vessels.
So, you have whatever is being substituted for White Pine these days,
or may be Eastern White Pine.
With a hardwood with a Janka hardness rating closer to 1000, the sharp edges stay
more crisp and do not ding as easily.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in New to ship modelling, what wood to use?
White Pine is a traditional species for a solid hull. The pine that you are getting is probably from a tree farm, a species or hybrid species chosen for rapid growth and a straight trunk. I would guess wide grain that is high contrast. It could also have gummy sap. Not a particularly good choice for model making.
Yellow Poplar is a good choice. It is a bit too soft for POF hull construction for my taste, but it will do the job well. With the proper cutting tools, Yellow Poplar should work well. I used it for a plug to make a 1840 1st launch and it cut and sanded well. It carves easily - you just need a sharp edge and fine touch to keep from removing more than intended. The only real downside is the green color if it is left natural and clear finished.
You do not identify your location - if you are in North America, see if there is a hardwood vendor in your area. Hard Maple and Black Cherry are at the low end of cost for a domestic, and are about as good as it gets for our use.
-
Jaager got a reaction from src in gluing pre-stained wood
A wood dye should have no effect on a PVA bond. A stain is a surface coat - similar to paint - it would depend on the specific product - but there is a chance that a bond may fail because the stain seals the wood pores and blocks penetration of the glue polymers.
Your best bet is to do the experiment on scrap wood and determine the effect. The stain manufacturer could have altered the formulation and if someone had an answer from years ago, it may not apply to your situation.
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Jaager got a reaction from Sunsanvil in gluing pre-stained wood
A wood dye should have no effect on a PVA bond. A stain is a surface coat - similar to paint - it would depend on the specific product - but there is a chance that a bond may fail because the stain seals the wood pores and blocks penetration of the glue polymers.
Your best bet is to do the experiment on scrap wood and determine the effect. The stain manufacturer could have altered the formulation and if someone had an answer from years ago, it may not apply to your situation.
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Jaager got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Planking my Charles Morgan with African Blackwood - am I crazy?
If the African wood produces more problems than it is worth, you might consider a different tack.
Your original complaint is rooted in your choice to use a stain. Stain is essentially a paint - it covers.
You could get to your original goal by using a wood dye.
Aniline wood dyes come in two flavors - water base ( aqueous ) and alcohol based.
The aqueous soaks in more than the alcohol and may be clearer when finished. The cost is that it takes
longer to dry and the first application tends to raise the grain of the wood. The fix is to either fine sand
after the first application and then do another - which may produce an inconsistent finish - or treat the wood
with water or water with 1:10 PVA added to lock down the fibers - sand after and then apply the dye.
Dyes come in several primary colors as well as various wood shades. White is the one that will require a paint.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Planking my Charles Morgan with African Blackwood - am I crazy?
If the African wood produces more problems than it is worth, you might consider a different tack.
Your original complaint is rooted in your choice to use a stain. Stain is essentially a paint - it covers.
You could get to your original goal by using a wood dye.
Aniline wood dyes come in two flavors - water base ( aqueous ) and alcohol based.
The aqueous soaks in more than the alcohol and may be clearer when finished. The cost is that it takes
longer to dry and the first application tends to raise the grain of the wood. The fix is to either fine sand
after the first application and then do another - which may produce an inconsistent finish - or treat the wood
with water or water with 1:10 PVA added to lock down the fibers - sand after and then apply the dye.
Dyes come in several primary colors as well as various wood shades. White is the one that will require a paint.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Planking my Charles Morgan with African Blackwood - am I crazy?
If the African wood produces more problems than it is worth, you might consider a different tack.
Your original complaint is rooted in your choice to use a stain. Stain is essentially a paint - it covers.
You could get to your original goal by using a wood dye.
Aniline wood dyes come in two flavors - water base ( aqueous ) and alcohol based.
The aqueous soaks in more than the alcohol and may be clearer when finished. The cost is that it takes
longer to dry and the first application tends to raise the grain of the wood. The fix is to either fine sand
after the first application and then do another - which may produce an inconsistent finish - or treat the wood
with water or water with 1:10 PVA added to lock down the fibers - sand after and then apply the dye.
Dyes come in several primary colors as well as various wood shades. White is the one that will require a paint.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Sources for Rigging tables before Steel 1794 wanted
There is a ready source:
SCANTLINGS OF THE ROYAL NAVY 1719-1805
Comparisons of 1719, 1745 Establishments, Ship Builders Repository and Steel’s Elements and Practice
by Allan Yedlinsky
This specially formatted book (14”x8 ½”) is divided into 2 sections. The first shows all of the scantlings from the 1719, 1745 and 1750 amended figures in an easy to use spread sheet format.
Seawatch Books
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Jaager got a reaction from dgbot in Sources for Rigging tables before Steel 1794 wanted
There is a ready source:
SCANTLINGS OF THE ROYAL NAVY 1719-1805
Comparisons of 1719, 1745 Establishments, Ship Builders Repository and Steel’s Elements and Practice
by Allan Yedlinsky
This specially formatted book (14”x8 ½”) is divided into 2 sections. The first shows all of the scantlings from the 1719, 1745 and 1750 amended figures in an easy to use spread sheet format.
Seawatch Books
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