Jaager

I do POF.  I am developing a method of frame assembly that involves cutting out the individual timbers.  I do not need to be precise in cutting to the line - in fact, some distance is necessary.   My 9" band saw does the job as well as I could ask and with the Stabilizer, it tracks quite well. Since only the back edge is controlled by the apparatus - the blade can pivot as needed - it does not bind - there are no guides.  The total cost is low enough to keep the 9' pretty much dedicated to scroll cutting.  I think most 9" saws have a 1 1/4" vac connection, which I adapted to my 2 1/2" shop vac.  Once I followed the advice here and placed a cyclone trap in line - I have avoided the problem of the vac filter clogging up and can cut and thickness sand as long as I wish.
 
With POF - want to have control of my timber supply.  I make do with an old Emco 3 wheel band saw with a Wood Slicer blade for resawing - it is under powered (3/4 HP).  Were I younger and not space limited - condo - and if I has wired 220V outlet, I would replace it with a 2HP 14" band saw..  This big saw could be used for scroll cutting - an 1/8" blade fits fine,  but changing band saw blades is not fun and it is worth it to me to have paid for the 9" not to have to.
 
I have a 10" table saw, but it scares the hell out of me.  I have found that except for cutting large plywood sheets, my band saw does everything better and is safer.  Saw horses and a hand power saw that can cut 3/4" would work as well as the table saw for plywood.  The full size table saw is a tool I would not buy were I starting over.
 
My thickness sander is a tool I can not do without.  When I started out, the only way to have the tool was to make it myself.   Talk about saw dust!   I made my own dust collector --  a bottomless box - 3 layers of Amazon box cardboard laminated using PVA wood glue - inside corners re-enforced with 1/4" x 1/4" Pine/Fir cut from a furring strip. Mounted a 2 1/2" hose connection on the top and the shop vac gets almost all the dust.
 
A 5" disk sander is another tool I depend on.  The MicroMark model that I use - pre-Byrnes - does not come with a method for dust collection - so I used my Amazon cardboard to enclose the underside of the table and cut a slot opening for a small crevice tool attachment and extra hose and use a Sears Magic Blue vac - it gets all the dust.
 
If you can afford it, a Byrnes table saw is worth the cost.
 
I prefer to have the tool fixed and manipulate the wood.  A drum sander is a very useful tool.  The spindle sanders I have seen use pre formed cylinders of sanding media - I want to use drums that can mount sheet sand paper so I made my own drum sanding table.  Additional advantages are that I can also mount 1/4" fine carbide burr cutters to quickly eat away material before final sanding of my frames and  I can mount a fence and use the table as an edger since a lot of my wood supply is raw planks straight from a country saw mill - not milled or planed.  The way I control dust is to fix the crevice tool for my shop vac close to the drum.  My background involved a chem lab so I use a cheap ring stand with a finger clamp to hold the crevice tool.

How close and precise do you need to cut? Are there a lot of inside cuts?
 
If there are few inside cuts - that you can afford to do with a hand fret saw and sorta close - will finish with disk or drum sander is your situation:
 
An alternative tool is a 9" or 10" bench band saw.  A Rikon 10 can be had for $220 now.   The generic 9" are less.  This only gets you halfway - to be able to do sharp curves or turn 90 degrees or more at a spot - a Carter Stabilizer for scroll cutting is sort of necessary and that is another $80.  What is available from Carter will limit your generic options.  I have the 9" model that MicroMark sold for a while and fortunately I was able to adapt the Stabliizer using K&S telescoping brass tubing.
You are pretty much limited to an 1/8" blade.  The teeth have set so getting too close to the line will not work.  The cuts are only in the down direction - so the work piece does not vibrate.   It can go fast - depending on wood thickness and species.
 
You might be able to do some resawing (as well as cross cutting) in addition to the scroll work  but I figure 2" thick and significant sanding because the blades for this class of saw have set and leave there presence known on the cut face.

I do POF.  I am developing a method of frame assembly that involves cutting out the individual timbers.  I do not need to be precise in cutting to the line - in fact, some distance is necessary.   My 9" band saw does the job as well as I could ask and with the Stabilizer, it tracks quite well. Since only the back edge is controlled by the apparatus - the blade can pivot as needed - it does not bind - there are no guides.  The total cost is low enough to keep the 9' pretty much dedicated to scroll cutting.  I think most 9" saws have a 1 1/4" vac connection, which I adapted to my 2 1/2" shop vac.  Once I followed the advice here and placed a cyclone trap in line - I have avoided the problem of the vac filter clogging up and can cut and thickness sand as long as I wish.
 
With POF - want to have control of my timber supply.  I make do with an old Emco 3 wheel band saw with a Wood Slicer blade for resawing - it is under powered (3/4 HP).  Were I younger and not space limited - condo - and if I has wired 220V outlet, I would replace it with a 2HP 14" band saw..  This big saw could be used for scroll cutting - an 1/8" blade fits fine,  but changing band saw blades is not fun and it is worth it to me to have paid for the 9" not to have to.
 
I have a 10" table saw, but it scares the hell out of me.  I have found that except for cutting large plywood sheets, my band saw does everything better and is safer.  Saw horses and a hand power saw that can cut 3/4" would work as well as the table saw for plywood.  The full size table saw is a tool I would not buy were I starting over.
 
My thickness sander is a tool I can not do without.  When I started out, the only way to have the tool was to make it myself.   Talk about saw dust!   I made my own dust collector --  a bottomless box - 3 layers of Amazon box cardboard laminated using PVA wood glue - inside corners re-enforced with 1/4" x 1/4" Pine/Fir cut from a furring strip. Mounted a 2 1/2" hose connection on the top and the shop vac gets almost all the dust.
 
A 5" disk sander is another tool I depend on.  The MicroMark model that I use - pre-Byrnes - does not come with a method for dust collection - so I used my Amazon cardboard to enclose the underside of the table and cut a slot opening for a small crevice tool attachment and extra hose and use a Sears Magic Blue vac - it gets all the dust.
 
If you can afford it, a Byrnes table saw is worth the cost.
 
I prefer to have the tool fixed and manipulate the wood.  A drum sander is a very useful tool.  The spindle sanders I have seen use pre formed cylinders of sanding media - I want to use drums that can mount sheet sand paper so I made my own drum sanding table.  Additional advantages are that I can also mount 1/4" fine carbide burr cutters to quickly eat away material before final sanding of my frames and  I can mount a fence and use the table as an edger since a lot of my wood supply is raw planks straight from a country saw mill - not milled or planed.  The way I control dust is to fix the crevice tool for my shop vac close to the drum.  My background involved a chem lab so I use a cheap ring stand with a finger clamp to hold the crevice tool.

Two variations to consider:
Because of eye tricks due to scale effect, consider using paper that is at most 1/2 the thickness of the seam at scale.
Use Walnut dye rather than black - a lot of pre petrol tar was not really black and going lighter than black can modify scale effect.

I do POF.  I am developing a method of frame assembly that involves cutting out the individual timbers.  I do not need to be precise in cutting to the line - in fact, some distance is necessary.   My 9" band saw does the job as well as I could ask and with the Stabilizer, it tracks quite well. Since only the back edge is controlled by the apparatus - the blade can pivot as needed - it does not bind - there are no guides.  The total cost is low enough to keep the 9' pretty much dedicated to scroll cutting.  I think most 9" saws have a 1 1/4" vac connection, which I adapted to my 2 1/2" shop vac.  Once I followed the advice here and placed a cyclone trap in line - I have avoided the problem of the vac filter clogging up and can cut and thickness sand as long as I wish.
 
With POF - want to have control of my timber supply.  I make do with an old Emco 3 wheel band saw with a Wood Slicer blade for resawing - it is under powered (3/4 HP).  Were I younger and not space limited - condo - and if I has wired 220V outlet, I would replace it with a 2HP 14" band saw..  This big saw could be used for scroll cutting - an 1/8" blade fits fine,  but changing band saw blades is not fun and it is worth it to me to have paid for the 9" not to have to.
 
I have a 10" table saw, but it scares the hell out of me.  I have found that except for cutting large plywood sheets, my band saw does everything better and is safer.  Saw horses and a hand power saw that can cut 3/4" would work as well as the table saw for plywood.  The full size table saw is a tool I would not buy were I starting over.
 
My thickness sander is a tool I can not do without.  When I started out, the only way to have the tool was to make it myself.   Talk about saw dust!   I made my own dust collector --  a bottomless box - 3 layers of Amazon box cardboard laminated using PVA wood glue - inside corners re-enforced with 1/4" x 1/4" Pine/Fir cut from a furring strip. Mounted a 2 1/2" hose connection on the top and the shop vac gets almost all the dust.
 
A 5" disk sander is another tool I depend on.  The MicroMark model that I use - pre-Byrnes - does not come with a method for dust collection - so I used my Amazon cardboard to enclose the underside of the table and cut a slot opening for a small crevice tool attachment and extra hose and use a Sears Magic Blue vac - it gets all the dust.
 
If you can afford it, a Byrnes table saw is worth the cost.
 
I prefer to have the tool fixed and manipulate the wood.  A drum sander is a very useful tool.  The spindle sanders I have seen use pre formed cylinders of sanding media - I want to use drums that can mount sheet sand paper so I made my own drum sanding table.  Additional advantages are that I can also mount 1/4" fine carbide burr cutters to quickly eat away material before final sanding of my frames and  I can mount a fence and use the table as an edger since a lot of my wood supply is raw planks straight from a country saw mill - not milled or planed.  The way I control dust is to fix the crevice tool for my shop vac close to the drum.  My background involved a chem lab so I use a cheap ring stand with a finger clamp to hold the crevice tool.

I do POF.  I am developing a method of frame assembly that involves cutting out the individual timbers.  I do not need to be precise in cutting to the line - in fact, some distance is necessary.   My 9" band saw does the job as well as I could ask and with the Stabilizer, it tracks quite well. Since only the back edge is controlled by the apparatus - the blade can pivot as needed - it does not bind - there are no guides.  The total cost is low enough to keep the 9' pretty much dedicated to scroll cutting.  I think most 9" saws have a 1 1/4" vac connection, which I adapted to my 2 1/2" shop vac.  Once I followed the advice here and placed a cyclone trap in line - I have avoided the problem of the vac filter clogging up and can cut and thickness sand as long as I wish.
 
With POF - want to have control of my timber supply.  I make do with an old Emco 3 wheel band saw with a Wood Slicer blade for resawing - it is under powered (3/4 HP).  Were I younger and not space limited - condo - and if I has wired 220V outlet, I would replace it with a 2HP 14" band saw..  This big saw could be used for scroll cutting - an 1/8" blade fits fine,  but changing band saw blades is not fun and it is worth it to me to have paid for the 9" not to have to.
 
I have a 10" table saw, but it scares the hell out of me.  I have found that except for cutting large plywood sheets, my band saw does everything better and is safer.  Saw horses and a hand power saw that can cut 3/4" would work as well as the table saw for plywood.  The full size table saw is a tool I would not buy were I starting over.
 
My thickness sander is a tool I can not do without.  When I started out, the only way to have the tool was to make it myself.   Talk about saw dust!   I made my own dust collector --  a bottomless box - 3 layers of Amazon box cardboard laminated using PVA wood glue - inside corners re-enforced with 1/4" x 1/4" Pine/Fir cut from a furring strip. Mounted a 2 1/2" hose connection on the top and the shop vac gets almost all the dust.
 
A 5" disk sander is another tool I depend on.  The MicroMark model that I use - pre-Byrnes - does not come with a method for dust collection - so I used my Amazon cardboard to enclose the underside of the table and cut a slot opening for a small crevice tool attachment and extra hose and use a Sears Magic Blue vac - it gets all the dust.
 
If you can afford it, a Byrnes table saw is worth the cost.
 
I prefer to have the tool fixed and manipulate the wood.  A drum sander is a very useful tool.  The spindle sanders I have seen use pre formed cylinders of sanding media - I want to use drums that can mount sheet sand paper so I made my own drum sanding table.  Additional advantages are that I can also mount 1/4" fine carbide burr cutters to quickly eat away material before final sanding of my frames and  I can mount a fence and use the table as an edger since a lot of my wood supply is raw planks straight from a country saw mill - not milled or planed.  The way I control dust is to fix the crevice tool for my shop vac close to the drum.  My background involved a chem lab so I use a cheap ring stand with a finger clamp to hold the crevice tool.

I do POF.  I am developing a method of frame assembly that involves cutting out the individual timbers.  I do not need to be precise in cutting to the line - in fact, some distance is necessary.   My 9" band saw does the job as well as I could ask and with the Stabilizer, it tracks quite well. Since only the back edge is controlled by the apparatus - the blade can pivot as needed - it does not bind - there are no guides.  The total cost is low enough to keep the 9' pretty much dedicated to scroll cutting.  I think most 9" saws have a 1 1/4" vac connection, which I adapted to my 2 1/2" shop vac.  Once I followed the advice here and placed a cyclone trap in line - I have avoided the problem of the vac filter clogging up and can cut and thickness sand as long as I wish.
 
With POF - want to have control of my timber supply.  I make do with an old Emco 3 wheel band saw with a Wood Slicer blade for resawing - it is under powered (3/4 HP).  Were I younger and not space limited - condo - and if I has wired 220V outlet, I would replace it with a 2HP 14" band saw..  This big saw could be used for scroll cutting - an 1/8" blade fits fine,  but changing band saw blades is not fun and it is worth it to me to have paid for the 9" not to have to.
 
I have a 10" table saw, but it scares the hell out of me.  I have found that except for cutting large plywood sheets, my band saw does everything better and is safer.  Saw horses and a hand power saw that can cut 3/4" would work as well as the table saw for plywood.  The full size table saw is a tool I would not buy were I starting over.
 
My thickness sander is a tool I can not do without.  When I started out, the only way to have the tool was to make it myself.   Talk about saw dust!   I made my own dust collector --  a bottomless box - 3 layers of Amazon box cardboard laminated using PVA wood glue - inside corners re-enforced with 1/4" x 1/4" Pine/Fir cut from a furring strip. Mounted a 2 1/2" hose connection on the top and the shop vac gets almost all the dust.
 
A 5" disk sander is another tool I depend on.  The MicroMark model that I use - pre-Byrnes - does not come with a method for dust collection - so I used my Amazon cardboard to enclose the underside of the table and cut a slot opening for a small crevice tool attachment and extra hose and use a Sears Magic Blue vac - it gets all the dust.
 
If you can afford it, a Byrnes table saw is worth the cost.
 
I prefer to have the tool fixed and manipulate the wood.  A drum sander is a very useful tool.  The spindle sanders I have seen use pre formed cylinders of sanding media - I want to use drums that can mount sheet sand paper so I made my own drum sanding table.  Additional advantages are that I can also mount 1/4" fine carbide burr cutters to quickly eat away material before final sanding of my frames and  I can mount a fence and use the table as an edger since a lot of my wood supply is raw planks straight from a country saw mill - not milled or planed.  The way I control dust is to fix the crevice tool for my shop vac close to the drum.  My background involved a chem lab so I use a cheap ring stand with a finger clamp to hold the crevice tool.

How close and precise do you need to cut? Are there a lot of inside cuts?
 
If there are few inside cuts - that you can afford to do with a hand fret saw and sorta close - will finish with disk or drum sander is your situation:
 
An alternative tool is a 9" or 10" bench band saw.  A Rikon 10 can be had for $220 now.   The generic 9" are less.  This only gets you halfway - to be able to do sharp curves or turn 90 degrees or more at a spot - a Carter Stabilizer for scroll cutting is sort of necessary and that is another $80.  What is available from Carter will limit your generic options.  I have the 9" model that MicroMark sold for a while and fortunately I was able to adapt the Stabliizer using K&S telescoping brass tubing.
You are pretty much limited to an 1/8" blade.  The teeth have set so getting too close to the line will not work.  The cuts are only in the down direction - so the work piece does not vibrate.   It can go fast - depending on wood thickness and species.
 
You might be able to do some resawing (as well as cross cutting) in addition to the scroll work  but I figure 2" thick and significant sanding because the blades for this class of saw have set and leave there presence known on the cut face.

How close and precise do you need to cut? Are there a lot of inside cuts?
 
If there are few inside cuts - that you can afford to do with a hand fret saw and sorta close - will finish with disk or drum sander is your situation:
 
An alternative tool is a 9" or 10" bench band saw.  A Rikon 10 can be had for $220 now.   The generic 9" are less.  This only gets you halfway - to be able to do sharp curves or turn 90 degrees or more at a spot - a Carter Stabilizer for scroll cutting is sort of necessary and that is another $80.  What is available from Carter will limit your generic options.  I have the 9" model that MicroMark sold for a while and fortunately I was able to adapt the Stabliizer using K&S telescoping brass tubing.
You are pretty much limited to an 1/8" blade.  The teeth have set so getting too close to the line will not work.  The cuts are only in the down direction - so the work piece does not vibrate.   It can go fast - depending on wood thickness and species.
 
You might be able to do some resawing (as well as cross cutting) in addition to the scroll work  but I figure 2" thick and significant sanding because the blades for this class of saw have set and leave there presence known on the cut face.

This is not a situation where "best" really means much.   If everything is junk, then the best of it is still junk.
 
Bench marks for various parts = excellent, good , poor .
 
Then, you just pick which parts to evaluate.
Plans
Instructions
Wood
Acuracy
Precision
Fitings
etc.

This is not a situation where "best" really means much.   If everything is junk, then the best of it is still junk.
 
Bench marks for various parts = excellent, good , poor .
 
Then, you just pick which parts to evaluate.
Plans
Instructions
Wood
Acuracy
Precision
Fitings
etc.

You are building POB? 
The first layer of planking is thin, moulds are far apart, there is no filler between the moulds to provide support, so there are hollows?
Try Bondo. 
For gaps, wood flour mixed with PVA  works well. For large surface areas, it is difficult to sand = the necessary properties that make it a good adhesive keep it from being brittle enough to sand easily.
If it is you final layer of planking, and you are going to paint it, scab a layer of very thin veneer wood on the low areas and sand that down.  If you use a veneer with a similar pore structure, it will look the same when painted.

You are building POB? 
The first layer of planking is thin, moulds are far apart, there is no filler between the moulds to provide support, so there are hollows?
Try Bondo. 
For gaps, wood flour mixed with PVA  works well. For large surface areas, it is difficult to sand = the necessary properties that make it a good adhesive keep it from being brittle enough to sand easily.
If it is you final layer of planking, and you are going to paint it, scab a layer of very thin veneer wood on the low areas and sand that down.  If you use a veneer with a similar pore structure, it will look the same when painted.

The math is certainly easier.  And also coming from a similar background, I can utilize either.  Volume, I can "see" either.  Weight,  up to pound, I am more comfortable with metric, grains are absurd.  Pounds and tons I "see" better than metric.  Distance - kilometers I do not "see" - miles I do.   1/32" - 1/8" - 1/4"  etc I "see" much better than mm or cm. 
 
For wood thickness, an electronic digital caliper beats any sort of calculation.
 
 
For English and US vessels,  English data is what we get.  For other European, before Napoleon, it is an idiosyncratic  national measure per country,  but the only scantlings that I have seen are English.   Since the physical properties of wood, iron and copper are universal,  using the English data for any ship of comparable size should not take us too far astray.

There are some terms that have "evolved" from their origins.  The original term is usually better at defining the function.
One is ceiling  -  it was originally  "sealing"  - the inside layer of planking.
 
Another is spilling --originally  spoiling  -  as in spoiling the plank.  It gives a better idea of the sentiments involved in cutting away as much if not more of the wood used as a plank.  They obviously hated the waste involved.
 
Wood will bend without too much complaint ( depending on species ) in and out of the plane of its narrowest dimension.   It will resist being bent in the thicker dimension.  Seeking the least resistance it will tend to twist.  A ships hull is subject to constant forces in three dimensions.  Having a plank that "wants" to spring back to its original shape being assisted by wind and wave = springing a leak.   Usually, the planks were steamed or soaked -bent - dried in new shape to get the lignin and other wood fiber binders to reset to the new shape and hold it - like a steel plate.
 
If you only use the narrow kit supplied wood stock - instead of cutting a "jigsaw" piece from wider stock - for hull planking, rails, and waterways- just understand that you are not simulating how the original vessel was built.

The math is certainly easier.  And also coming from a similar background, I can utilize either.  Volume, I can "see" either.  Weight,  up to pound, I am more comfortable with metric, grains are absurd.  Pounds and tons I "see" better than metric.  Distance - kilometers I do not "see" - miles I do.   1/32" - 1/8" - 1/4"  etc I "see" much better than mm or cm. 
 
For wood thickness, an electronic digital caliper beats any sort of calculation.
 
 
For English and US vessels,  English data is what we get.  For other European, before Napoleon, it is an idiosyncratic  national measure per country,  but the only scantlings that I have seen are English.   Since the physical properties of wood, iron and copper are universal,  using the English data for any ship of comparable size should not take us too far astray.

There are some terms that have "evolved" from their origins.  The original term is usually better at defining the function.
One is ceiling  -  it was originally  "sealing"  - the inside layer of planking.
 
Another is spilling --originally  spoiling  -  as in spoiling the plank.  It gives a better idea of the sentiments involved in cutting away as much if not more of the wood used as a plank.  They obviously hated the waste involved.
 
Wood will bend without too much complaint ( depending on species ) in and out of the plane of its narrowest dimension.   It will resist being bent in the thicker dimension.  Seeking the least resistance it will tend to twist.  A ships hull is subject to constant forces in three dimensions.  Having a plank that "wants" to spring back to its original shape being assisted by wind and wave = springing a leak.   Usually, the planks were steamed or soaked -bent - dried in new shape to get the lignin and other wood fiber binders to reset to the new shape and hold it - like a steel plate.
 
If you only use the narrow kit supplied wood stock - instead of cutting a "jigsaw" piece from wider stock - for hull planking, rails, and waterways- just understand that you are not simulating how the original vessel was built.

The math is certainly easier.  And also coming from a similar background, I can utilize either.  Volume, I can "see" either.  Weight,  up to pound, I am more comfortable with metric, grains are absurd.  Pounds and tons I "see" better than metric.  Distance - kilometers I do not "see" - miles I do.   1/32" - 1/8" - 1/4"  etc I "see" much better than mm or cm. 
 
For wood thickness, an electronic digital caliper beats any sort of calculation.
 
 
For English and US vessels,  English data is what we get.  For other European, before Napoleon, it is an idiosyncratic  national measure per country,  but the only scantlings that I have seen are English.   Since the physical properties of wood, iron and copper are universal,  using the English data for any ship of comparable size should not take us too far astray.

The math is certainly easier.  And also coming from a similar background, I can utilize either.  Volume, I can "see" either.  Weight,  up to pound, I am more comfortable with metric, grains are absurd.  Pounds and tons I "see" better than metric.  Distance - kilometers I do not "see" - miles I do.   1/32" - 1/8" - 1/4"  etc I "see" much better than mm or cm. 
 
For wood thickness, an electronic digital caliper beats any sort of calculation.
 
 
For English and US vessels,  English data is what we get.  For other European, before Napoleon, it is an idiosyncratic  national measure per country,  but the only scantlings that I have seen are English.   Since the physical properties of wood, iron and copper are universal,  using the English data for any ship of comparable size should not take us too far astray.

There are some terms that have "evolved" from their origins.  The original term is usually better at defining the function.
One is ceiling  -  it was originally  "sealing"  - the inside layer of planking.
 
Another is spilling --originally  spoiling  -  as in spoiling the plank.  It gives a better idea of the sentiments involved in cutting away as much if not more of the wood used as a plank.  They obviously hated the waste involved.
 
Wood will bend without too much complaint ( depending on species ) in and out of the plane of its narrowest dimension.   It will resist being bent in the thicker dimension.  Seeking the least resistance it will tend to twist.  A ships hull is subject to constant forces in three dimensions.  Having a plank that "wants" to spring back to its original shape being assisted by wind and wave = springing a leak.   Usually, the planks were steamed or soaked -bent - dried in new shape to get the lignin and other wood fiber binders to reset to the new shape and hold it - like a steel plate.
 
If you only use the narrow kit supplied wood stock - instead of cutting a "jigsaw" piece from wider stock - for hull planking, rails, and waterways- just understand that you are not simulating how the original vessel was built.

There are some terms that have "evolved" from their origins.  The original term is usually better at defining the function.
One is ceiling  -  it was originally  "sealing"  - the inside layer of planking.
 
Another is spilling --originally  spoiling  -  as in spoiling the plank.  It gives a better idea of the sentiments involved in cutting away as much if not more of the wood used as a plank.  They obviously hated the waste involved.
 
Wood will bend without too much complaint ( depending on species ) in and out of the plane of its narrowest dimension.   It will resist being bent in the thicker dimension.  Seeking the least resistance it will tend to twist.  A ships hull is subject to constant forces in three dimensions.  Having a plank that "wants" to spring back to its original shape being assisted by wind and wave = springing a leak.   Usually, the planks were steamed or soaked -bent - dried in new shape to get the lignin and other wood fiber binders to reset to the new shape and hold it - like a steel plate.
 
If you only use the narrow kit supplied wood stock - instead of cutting a "jigsaw" piece from wider stock - for hull planking, rails, and waterways- just understand that you are not simulating how the original vessel was built.

There are some terms that have "evolved" from their origins.  The original term is usually better at defining the function.
One is ceiling  -  it was originally  "sealing"  - the inside layer of planking.
 
Another is spilling --originally  spoiling  -  as in spoiling the plank.  It gives a better idea of the sentiments involved in cutting away as much if not more of the wood used as a plank.  They obviously hated the waste involved.
 
Wood will bend without too much complaint ( depending on species ) in and out of the plane of its narrowest dimension.   It will resist being bent in the thicker dimension.  Seeking the least resistance it will tend to twist.  A ships hull is subject to constant forces in three dimensions.  Having a plank that "wants" to spring back to its original shape being assisted by wind and wave = springing a leak.   Usually, the planks were steamed or soaked -bent - dried in new shape to get the lignin and other wood fiber binders to reset to the new shape and hold it - like a steel plate.
 
If you only use the narrow kit supplied wood stock - instead of cutting a "jigsaw" piece from wider stock - for hull planking, rails, and waterways- just understand that you are not simulating how the original vessel was built.

There are some terms that have "evolved" from their origins.  The original term is usually better at defining the function.
One is ceiling  -  it was originally  "sealing"  - the inside layer of planking.
 
Another is spilling --originally  spoiling  -  as in spoiling the plank.  It gives a better idea of the sentiments involved in cutting away as much if not more of the wood used as a plank.  They obviously hated the waste involved.
 
Wood will bend without too much complaint ( depending on species ) in and out of the plane of its narrowest dimension.   It will resist being bent in the thicker dimension.  Seeking the least resistance it will tend to twist.  A ships hull is subject to constant forces in three dimensions.  Having a plank that "wants" to spring back to its original shape being assisted by wind and wave = springing a leak.   Usually, the planks were steamed or soaked -bent - dried in new shape to get the lignin and other wood fiber binders to reset to the new shape and hold it - like a steel plate.
 
If you only use the narrow kit supplied wood stock - instead of cutting a "jigsaw" piece from wider stock - for hull planking, rails, and waterways- just understand that you are not simulating how the original vessel was built.

There are some terms that have "evolved" from their origins.  The original term is usually better at defining the function.
One is ceiling  -  it was originally  "sealing"  - the inside layer of planking.
 
Another is spilling --originally  spoiling  -  as in spoiling the plank.  It gives a better idea of the sentiments involved in cutting away as much if not more of the wood used as a plank.  They obviously hated the waste involved.
 
Wood will bend without too much complaint ( depending on species ) in and out of the plane of its narrowest dimension.   It will resist being bent in the thicker dimension.  Seeking the least resistance it will tend to twist.  A ships hull is subject to constant forces in three dimensions.  Having a plank that "wants" to spring back to its original shape being assisted by wind and wave = springing a leak.   Usually, the planks were steamed or soaked -bent - dried in new shape to get the lignin and other wood fiber binders to reset to the new shape and hold it - like a steel plate.
 
If you only use the narrow kit supplied wood stock - instead of cutting a "jigsaw" piece from wider stock - for hull planking, rails, and waterways- just understand that you are not simulating how the original vessel was built.

There are some terms that have "evolved" from their origins.  The original term is usually better at defining the function.
One is ceiling  -  it was originally  "sealing"  - the inside layer of planking.
 
Another is spilling --originally  spoiling  -  as in spoiling the plank.  It gives a better idea of the sentiments involved in cutting away as much if not more of the wood used as a plank.  They obviously hated the waste involved.
 
Wood will bend without too much complaint ( depending on species ) in and out of the plane of its narrowest dimension.   It will resist being bent in the thicker dimension.  Seeking the least resistance it will tend to twist.  A ships hull is subject to constant forces in three dimensions.  Having a plank that "wants" to spring back to its original shape being assisted by wind and wave = springing a leak.   Usually, the planks were steamed or soaked -bent - dried in new shape to get the lignin and other wood fiber binders to reset to the new shape and hold it - like a steel plate.
 
If you only use the narrow kit supplied wood stock - instead of cutting a "jigsaw" piece from wider stock - for hull planking, rails, and waterways- just understand that you are not simulating how the original vessel was built.