Jaager

I personally would not stain a ship model with any kind of wipe on oil or resin based product intended for full sized objects.  I believe that like everything else involving models the coating thickness needs to be to scale.  Heavy buildups of wipe on oils is undesirable.  If you use classic ship model woods to scratch build Dockyard type models staining should not be required.  Most woods supplied with kits are better painted.
 
Roger

You may wish you had done a test first.  Take some scrap pieces of the same wood to the stain shop.  Color the part that will be so treated on the model, dry. bond. After a time, test the bond strength as compared to a control of bare wood to bare wood.  
A strength over time test could be done but it is not worth the trouble -  i.e.  a chemical reaction rate doubles with every 10 degree C rise in temp.  a low temp oven -

You may wish you had done a test first.  Take some scrap pieces of the same wood to the stain shop.  Color the part that will be so treated on the model, dry. bond. After a time, test the bond strength as compared to a control of bare wood to bare wood.  
A strength over time test could be done but it is not worth the trouble -  i.e.  a chemical reaction rate doubles with every 10 degree C rise in temp.  a low temp oven -

"Stain"  can have more than one meaning as it is commonly used.
it is often used to describe any product that colors wood.  This comes from turning the verb "to stain", meaning anything that colors, into a noun.
In general two different agents are used.
 
An actual "stain" is a semi transparent paint.  If you use this on wood before using PVA, there is a possibility of the pores and fiber irregularities being filled. A weak PVA bond is possible.
If CA is used - it will bond to the paint layer.  Its strength will be the strength of the paint to the wood.
Some stain products advertise as being "penetrating".  This probably means that there is a mixture of paint and dye in the product.
 
A dye soaks into the wood. It is a clear solution of dye molecules in the solvent base,  It does not affect the surface or the pores.
There are two types of dye - water based and alcohol based. 
The water based dye soaks in more deeply.  On a piece of furniture, this can make a difference in the quality of the look.
At model scales,  the surface is too small for a deeper color to be visible.  Water base will cause wood to swell with the first application or two - sanding and or scraping is needed to fix this.
Just water can be used first, sanded and then dyed - it may save a second dye application to hide what the sanding did to the color.
Alcohol based dye saves all that. The wood does not swell and it dries more quickly.
 
A stain product makes its living by turning cheap and poor quality wood into something that looks better - to partially hide boring grain - often on open pore wood species that need a thick pore filler.
A dye is meant for high quality wood, where the grain wants being accentuated instead of being hidden.

"Stain"  can have more than one meaning as it is commonly used.
it is often used to describe any product that colors wood.  This comes from turning the verb "to stain", meaning anything that colors, into a noun.
In general two different agents are used.
 
An actual "stain" is a semi transparent paint.  If you use this on wood before using PVA, there is a possibility of the pores and fiber irregularities being filled. A weak PVA bond is possible.
If CA is used - it will bond to the paint layer.  Its strength will be the strength of the paint to the wood.
Some stain products advertise as being "penetrating".  This probably means that there is a mixture of paint and dye in the product.
 
A dye soaks into the wood. It is a clear solution of dye molecules in the solvent base,  It does not affect the surface or the pores.
There are two types of dye - water based and alcohol based. 
The water based dye soaks in more deeply.  On a piece of furniture, this can make a difference in the quality of the look.
At model scales,  the surface is too small for a deeper color to be visible.  Water base will cause wood to swell with the first application or two - sanding and or scraping is needed to fix this.
Just water can be used first, sanded and then dyed - it may save a second dye application to hide what the sanding did to the color.
Alcohol based dye saves all that. The wood does not swell and it dries more quickly.
 
A stain product makes its living by turning cheap and poor quality wood into something that looks better - to partially hide boring grain - often on open pore wood species that need a thick pore filler.
A dye is meant for high quality wood, where the grain wants being accentuated instead of being hidden.

"Stain"  can have more than one meaning as it is commonly used.
it is often used to describe any product that colors wood.  This comes from turning the verb "to stain", meaning anything that colors, into a noun.
In general two different agents are used.
 
An actual "stain" is a semi transparent paint.  If you use this on wood before using PVA, there is a possibility of the pores and fiber irregularities being filled. A weak PVA bond is possible.
If CA is used - it will bond to the paint layer.  Its strength will be the strength of the paint to the wood.
Some stain products advertise as being "penetrating".  This probably means that there is a mixture of paint and dye in the product.
 
A dye soaks into the wood. It is a clear solution of dye molecules in the solvent base,  It does not affect the surface or the pores.
There are two types of dye - water based and alcohol based. 
The water based dye soaks in more deeply.  On a piece of furniture, this can make a difference in the quality of the look.
At model scales,  the surface is too small for a deeper color to be visible.  Water base will cause wood to swell with the first application or two - sanding and or scraping is needed to fix this.
Just water can be used first, sanded and then dyed - it may save a second dye application to hide what the sanding did to the color.
Alcohol based dye saves all that. The wood does not swell and it dries more quickly.
 
A stain product makes its living by turning cheap and poor quality wood into something that looks better - to partially hide boring grain - often on open pore wood species that need a thick pore filler.
A dye is meant for high quality wood, where the grain wants being accentuated instead of being hidden.

"Stain"  can have more than one meaning as it is commonly used.
it is often used to describe any product that colors wood.  This comes from turning the verb "to stain", meaning anything that colors, into a noun.
In general two different agents are used.
 
An actual "stain" is a semi transparent paint.  If you use this on wood before using PVA, there is a possibility of the pores and fiber irregularities being filled. A weak PVA bond is possible.
If CA is used - it will bond to the paint layer.  Its strength will be the strength of the paint to the wood.
Some stain products advertise as being "penetrating".  This probably means that there is a mixture of paint and dye in the product.
 
A dye soaks into the wood. It is a clear solution of dye molecules in the solvent base,  It does not affect the surface or the pores.
There are two types of dye - water based and alcohol based. 
The water based dye soaks in more deeply.  On a piece of furniture, this can make a difference in the quality of the look.
At model scales,  the surface is too small for a deeper color to be visible.  Water base will cause wood to swell with the first application or two - sanding and or scraping is needed to fix this.
Just water can be used first, sanded and then dyed - it may save a second dye application to hide what the sanding did to the color.
Alcohol based dye saves all that. The wood does not swell and it dries more quickly.
 
A stain product makes its living by turning cheap and poor quality wood into something that looks better - to partially hide boring grain - often on open pore wood species that need a thick pore filler.
A dye is meant for high quality wood, where the grain wants being accentuated instead of being hidden.

"Stain"  can have more than one meaning as it is commonly used.
it is often used to describe any product that colors wood.  This comes from turning the verb "to stain", meaning anything that colors, into a noun.
In general two different agents are used.
 
An actual "stain" is a semi transparent paint.  If you use this on wood before using PVA, there is a possibility of the pores and fiber irregularities being filled. A weak PVA bond is possible.
If CA is used - it will bond to the paint layer.  Its strength will be the strength of the paint to the wood.
Some stain products advertise as being "penetrating".  This probably means that there is a mixture of paint and dye in the product.
 
A dye soaks into the wood. It is a clear solution of dye molecules in the solvent base,  It does not affect the surface or the pores.
There are two types of dye - water based and alcohol based. 
The water based dye soaks in more deeply.  On a piece of furniture, this can make a difference in the quality of the look.
At model scales,  the surface is too small for a deeper color to be visible.  Water base will cause wood to swell with the first application or two - sanding and or scraping is needed to fix this.
Just water can be used first, sanded and then dyed - it may save a second dye application to hide what the sanding did to the color.
Alcohol based dye saves all that. The wood does not swell and it dries more quickly.
 
A stain product makes its living by turning cheap and poor quality wood into something that looks better - to partially hide boring grain - often on open pore wood species that need a thick pore filler.
A dye is meant for high quality wood, where the grain wants being accentuated instead of being hidden.

It looks like the General pin vise that I bought when I started all this -  the early "70's.  It was/is better quality than the now stuff, the collets = two units - different bore at each end - there is a storage cavity at the swivel end. 
Still my go to- mostly. 
I have never been introduced to the Starrett version.  A four unit set would probably be worth it if the buyer was young.

It looks like the General pin vise that I bought when I started all this -  the early "70's.  It was/is better quality than the now stuff, the collets = two units - different bore at each end - there is a storage cavity at the swivel end. 
Still my go to- mostly. 
I have never been introduced to the Starrett version.  A four unit set would probably be worth it if the buyer was young.

It looks like the General pin vise that I bought when I started all this -  the early "70's.  It was/is better quality than the now stuff, the collets = two units - different bore at each end - there is a storage cavity at the swivel end. 
Still my go to- mostly. 
I have never been introduced to the Starrett version.  A four unit set would probably be worth it if the buyer was young.

I would guess that it would be a tedious process,  but to reduce the chemical acceleration back to ambient rate , would not a neutralization step be needed?
A treatment with a dilute sodium bicarbonate solution and a couple of rinses with distilled water?
 
 
 

I would guess that it would be a tedious process,  but to reduce the chemical acceleration back to ambient rate , would not a neutralization step be needed?
A treatment with a dilute sodium bicarbonate solution and a couple of rinses with distilled water?
 
 
 

The first step is to seal the cut ends.  What you use is not critical.  Hot paraffin, shellac,  old varnish,  old paint - oil based is probably better.  Thick - the object is to make it difficult for the water to get out at open ends of the tubes that are wood.  Different rates water migration produce stress = splitting and checking
 
Length:  that depends on you - close to the longest that you use on your bench - a tad more to account for loss from seasoning.
De-bark:  now if you have the patience.   It allows the water easier egress.  It removes the eggs and larvae of wood borers. 
A draw knife or spoke shave makes a quick job of it if the branch is secured from moving.
The old rule is one year per inch of thickness to reach water concentration equilibrium. 
I would aim at ~2" thickness and 2 foot length for my system.
Seal the ends NOW.
 
Wood can do ugly things as it dries,  splits and checks ate the worse-  bow and twist is not helpful -
Protect for the elements - no rain or snow - direct sun = uneven drying
good air flow around all sides = sticker the rick
Serious downward pressure - weights on top of the rick may reduce twist and bow
 
 

If you can mill it to the needed dimensions, an inexpensive source of filling material:
 
in the US,  dwellings are framed using 2x4 by 8' Fir or Pine lumber.  A mega store building supply chain sells it for< $4 each
It is a softwood - evergreen - not difficult on cutting edges.  Pick clear straight stock.  As long as it is not sappy Pine, it glues well.
If you have access, a free supply might be had from a building site from the end cuttings and scrap, if you ask.

There are models, yes.  I do not believe that I said that models could not be built. 
But like every kit of a ship with a famous name and no complete plans from its time ,  that the result actually matches the original is wishful thinking at best.
In the circumstance it is honest to make the label reflect the fact that it is one man's guess and thus a decorator model and not an actual historical representation.
"The ship name if model makers name had built it."
He made those two  models - and as excellent as they may be - he essentially gave them any old name from an historical perspective.

There are models, yes.  I do not believe that I said that models could not be built. 
But like every kit of a ship with a famous name and no complete plans from its time ,  that the result actually matches the original is wishful thinking at best.
In the circumstance it is honest to make the label reflect the fact that it is one man's guess and thus a decorator model and not an actual historical representation.
"The ship name if model makers name had built it."
He made those two  models - and as excellent as they may be - he essentially gave them any old name from an historical perspective.

Jules,
 
I am coming at this from a particular bias as far as my attachment of relative values.
That is POF model building.  The English plans are often detailed enough for me to develop frame timber patterns with almost no traditional lofting (i.e.  using XZ and YZ points to get the XY data that I need.)
 
The Dutch plans would essentially be following the directions for a design that are in Deane's Doctrine.   That is a lot of hands on lofting and the result is a best guess because of the number of choices that need to be made along the way.  One minor advantage with the Dutch hull is that there seems to be s long section on either side of the deadflat that are a replication - sort of barge-like.  The English started a slope change almost immediately on either side. 
Because Deane used arcs - a compass - something that I have taken as the core of whole moulding - there is a sameness with any design that follows the method. 
You are describing something similar. 
What Deane did using 5 data points per WL and a flexible batten on paper,  the Dutch appeared to do in the yard using the actual planking. 
 
I think that the Dutch used too much "you just gotta know" in their decisions for me to even think about building a hull using what data that they have left us.
I do concede that my long ago ambition to build Deane's Royal Charles 1672 - the one that came after the one that the Dutch stole - would be a fantasy rather than what the ship actually looked like.  There are no plans, jut the data that Deane started with. 
 

Jules,
 
I am coming at this from a particular bias as far as my attachment of relative values.
That is POF model building.  The English plans are often detailed enough for me to develop frame timber patterns with almost no traditional lofting (i.e.  using XZ and YZ points to get the XY data that I need.)
 
The Dutch plans would essentially be following the directions for a design that are in Deane's Doctrine.   That is a lot of hands on lofting and the result is a best guess because of the number of choices that need to be made along the way.  One minor advantage with the Dutch hull is that there seems to be s long section on either side of the deadflat that are a replication - sort of barge-like.  The English started a slope change almost immediately on either side. 
Because Deane used arcs - a compass - something that I have taken as the core of whole moulding - there is a sameness with any design that follows the method. 
You are describing something similar. 
What Deane did using 5 data points per WL and a flexible batten on paper,  the Dutch appeared to do in the yard using the actual planking. 
 
I think that the Dutch used too much "you just gotta know" in their decisions for me to even think about building a hull using what data that they have left us.
I do concede that my long ago ambition to build Deane's Royal Charles 1672 - the one that came after the one that the Dutch stole - would be a fantasy rather than what the ship actually looked like.  There are no plans, jut the data that Deane started with. 
 

The "they" that I was referring to are the English.
I was mostly doing a criticism  of the English.
 
The supposed advantage of a complete design on paper and the use frames at every station - frame first - is probably not all that significant.  The design is still based on intuition and past performance.  It is much better for us who wish to do a reproduction though..
 
Something scientific would have to wait for a test basin.  Even then real significance would need the development of precise instrumentation and a way to record the results.  I think a smoked drum was state of the art up until well into the 20th century.  Identifying laminar flow and looking for eddies.
 
I do not think we are disagreeing all that much.  I just think we have different standards for what constitutes a sophisticated design document. 
I believe that the Dutch started with something on paper.  It was just basic. 
What the English or French started with on paper probably produced a hull with less variability between what different yards would produce  than would obtain between the various Dutch yards - if some new factor was introduced.  The Dutch system probably selected for a degree of commonality with the shipwrights.
 
 
Yes.   But 10 foot sandwiches would be a bear for my method.  
But the corvette  Falmouth of 1827  has three 16'  sandwiches, and six 8'.  The USN designer certainly did not over exert himself with those plans.

Jules,
 
Are you proposing that the technical drawings were more than the deadflat, one fore, one aft,  the shape of the stem,  the stern "AP" cross sectional shapes?
Or maybe a couple or three more than one at either end?
 

I just read - either in NRJ or here - that the scale was divided in  1/12 th's  and not intervals of 4 like Imperial.  12 inches to the foot.  And just what a foot was to begin with varies area to area.  The different scales in Chapman's ANM make it obvious that having an interest in modeling ships outside the British Empire involves this additional per country difference in weights and measures.

I don't wish to horn in on Bob Cleek's patch  @Bob Cleek ,  but it appears that the expensive model specific brands and lines are subject to whim and fad.  
If you are serious, the convenience of water based paint and a synthetic binder may be an illusion when the equation has reached its final solution.
A safer and more dependable route would be to go with enamel paint and go to the source.  A tube of artist's oil from a quality line has the proper pigment particle size, can be easily diluted, used for brush or spray application, and be available when needed.   Plus a long shelf life.
This companies line has 4 greys = https://www.dickblick.com/products/gamblin-artists-oil-colors/?Size=37 ml (1.25 oz)&
Doing a custom mix - it would probably be wise to produce a lot more than the estimated need.
This is too late for your present project, but the next one.....
Bob has some in depth directions on site that should come up with a search.
 

I don't wish to horn in on Bob Cleek's patch  @Bob Cleek ,  but it appears that the expensive model specific brands and lines are subject to whim and fad.  
If you are serious, the convenience of water based paint and a synthetic binder may be an illusion when the equation has reached its final solution.
A safer and more dependable route would be to go with enamel paint and go to the source.  A tube of artist's oil from a quality line has the proper pigment particle size, can be easily diluted, used for brush or spray application, and be available when needed.   Plus a long shelf life.
This companies line has 4 greys = https://www.dickblick.com/products/gamblin-artists-oil-colors/?Size=37 ml (1.25 oz)&
Doing a custom mix - it would probably be wise to produce a lot more than the estimated need.
This is too late for your present project, but the next one.....
Bob has some in depth directions on site that should come up with a search.
 

I don't wish to horn in on Bob Cleek's patch  @Bob Cleek ,  but it appears that the expensive model specific brands and lines are subject to whim and fad.  
If you are serious, the convenience of water based paint and a synthetic binder may be an illusion when the equation has reached its final solution.
A safer and more dependable route would be to go with enamel paint and go to the source.  A tube of artist's oil from a quality line has the proper pigment particle size, can be easily diluted, used for brush or spray application, and be available when needed.   Plus a long shelf life.
This companies line has 4 greys = https://www.dickblick.com/products/gamblin-artists-oil-colors/?Size=37 ml (1.25 oz)&
Doing a custom mix - it would probably be wise to produce a lot more than the estimated need.
This is too late for your present project, but the next one.....
Bob has some in depth directions on site that should come up with a search.