Model Master Paints

[rhephner]

A couple of years ago I bought several jars of o-5 ocean gray paint from Model Masters. I’m now close to the end of my project and almost out of paint. Problem is, Model Master is discontinued. I replaced it with badger brand o-5 ocean gray, but it doesn’t match. 
 

any suggestions for how to match the paint? I really can’t repaint everything.

[Roger Pellett]

EBay?

[Nunnehi (Don)]

I’ve got one bottle of 5-O ocean gray MM # 2157 that may be useable that I’ll be happy to send to you. PM me with your address. 
 

I will die mad about what MM did!

 

Don

 

 

[mtaylor]

I checked my stash of MM paints.  They now have tossed as all were dried out.   They were great paints but times change.

[Jaager]

I don't wish to horn in on Bob Cleek's patch  @Bob Cleek ,  but it appears that the expensive model specific brands and lines are subject to whim and fad.  

If you are serious, the convenience of water based paint and a synthetic binder may be an illusion when the equation has reached its final solution.

A safer and more dependable route would be to go with enamel paint and go to the source.  A tube of artist's oil from a quality line has the proper pigment particle size, can be easily diluted, used for brush or spray application, and be available when needed.   Plus a long shelf life.

This companies line has 4 greys = https://www.dickblick.com/products/gamblin-artists-oil-colors/?Size=37 ml (1.25 oz)&

Doing a custom mix - it would probably be wise to produce a lot more than the estimated need.

This is too late for your present project, but the next one.....

Bob has some in depth directions on site that should come up with a search.

 

[Bob Cleek]

3 hours ago, Jaager said:

I don't wish to horn in on Bob Cleek's patch

Do you mean this patch: 

 

Indeed, refer to my prior posts on using tubed artists' oils (or acrylics, if you wish) for model painting. Easily used and ounce for ounce, far, far less expensive. You don't have to store tons of bottles full of hardening expensive paint colors, either. 

Edited July 3, 2023 by Bob Cleek

[rhephner]

On 7/1/2023 at 9:32 PM, Nunnehi (Don) said:

I’ve got one bottle of 5-O ocean gray MM # 2157 that may be useable that I’ll be happy to send to you. PM me with your address. 
 

I will die mad about what MM did!

 

Don

 

 

Thank you Don. I PMd you

[rhephner]

I guess I naively thought that O-5 gray would be the same color no matter what brand. It should be based on the same historic paint color right? Not even close.

[Roger Pellett]

Old NRJ issues, those published approximately before the year 2000 contain a wealth of information similar to that now found on MSW.  Fortunately, much of this is included in the two volumes of Shop Notes available from the NRG office. 

These are an invaluable resource for those of us wishing to handcraft models using “old school” methods.

 

 Each volume includes an entire chapter relating to finishing; paint, varnish, etc.  volume I includes mixing paints using Japan colors and volume II color charts for commonly used Nineteenth Century paints.  This might be your nest resource for matching your grey paint.

 

Roger

[kurtvd19]

On 7/1/2023 at 6:16 PM, rhephner said:

I replaced it with badger brand o-5 ocean gray, but it doesn’t match. 

When I developed the Badger line of Marine paints I matched the colors to Snyder and Shorts Paint Chips.  I  have no idea of the accuracy of the MM paints.  But it doesn't matter if the two don't match and you probably don't wish to repaint all the MM covered areas.😊

[Bob Cleek]

54 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

Each volume includes an entire chapter relating to finishing; paint, varnish, etc.  volume I includes mixing paints using Japan colors and volume II color charts for commonly used Nineteenth Century paints.  This might be your nest resource for matching your grey paint.

 

Highly recommended! The two Shop Notes volumes should be on every modeler's shelf. Two of the most valuable books on the subject around.

 

That said, it can't be all that difficult to match a gray. Use a clean small bottle of suitable size and with a tight cap to hold your paint. (You may add a few "B-B's" (round air rifle shot) to the jar which will serve as agitators when you shake the capped bottle to mix your paint.) Use large hypodermic syringes for measuring, one for each color and oil, thinner, or dryer you'll be using. These are for accurate measuring of the amounts you will be mixing. Write down the exact amounts you use to mix your paint as you add them! Start with white. Add a very slight smidgen of Prussian blue to that and mix well. (You should premix the individual colors before mixing, thinning each with an equal proportion of thinner, etc., so a small measure of one will equal the same proportion of paint, thinner, and dryer as an equal measure of the other.) Then progressively add black in small amounts, mixing well, (and a bit more blue if necessary) until you get close, but slightly lighter than what you want to match because paint tends to dry darker than it looks when wet. Paint a test paint "chip" on clear card stock and let it dry. Compare it to your prototype sample to test for the color match. If it's too light, add a bit of black (and/or blue,) and repeat the card test until you achieve the exact match you desire. Sneak up on it, though. Don't overdue adding color to the white. If you "go too far," and your gray is too dark, add more white paint gradually until you achieve your desired match. When you've got your match, add up all the measurements you've written down for each ingredient you've used in your mixing and write these totals for each ingredient on the reverse side of the index card you used for your successful color match. Be sure to also record the exact brand and stock name or number of each ingredient. (If you are really anal, you may want to do the same for each test "chip" index card you prepare as you "sneak up on your color match in case you might want a particular lighter (or darker) color in the color range you're working in.) Save these "paint recipe" index cards in an index card box. If you want to mix the same color again, you've got the recipe and if you want something lighter or darker, you can "sneak up" on that color a lot faster with a "head start" from your recipe cards.

 

If you are really, really anal, you can identify your paint colors using the Munsell Color Standards System, which, if memory serves, is addressed at great length in Ship Modelers' Shop Notes, Volume II. See: Color Matching & Identification; Munsell Color | Munsell Color System; Color Matching from Munsell Color Company This identifying system is the industrial standard for identifying, describing, and mixing colors. 

 

Two warnings about mixing paint to match: Firstly, if you are mixing colors you should do so under "daylight" if at all possible. Artificial light other than "daylight" bulbs will affect the color you perceive when looking at it under such artificial light. Secondly, while the colors you mix may appear one way to you, it is quite possble they may appear differently to someone else because not everyone's eyes perceive color the same way. Only by matching colors can you be sure they are the same and if you are "color blind," even then you may be out ot luck!

[rhephner]

56 minutes ago, kurtvd19 said:

When I developed the Badger line of Marine paints I matched the colors to Snyder and Shorts Paint Chips.  I  have no idea of the accuracy of the MM paints.  But it doesn't matter if the two don't match and you probably don't wish to repaint all the MM covered areas.😊

Thanks for the reply. For what it’s worth, the Badger looks more accurate. It’s darker. But you’re correct, it would be very difficult to say the least to repaint now.

[Roger Pellett]

A couple of thoughts.  I believe that the Model Master paints were enamels- thinned with solvents.  The Badger paints.  Are they acrylic and compatible with over painting or touching up Model Master paints.

 

In matching colors, I would suggest comparing the two when both are dry. Some paints change color slightly when drying.

 

Roger

[kurtvd19]

The Badger paints are acrylics - thinned with water.

[rhephner]

@Bob Cleek Thanks for the thorough explanation. You've opened my eyes to new possibilities for paint I didn't see before. I appreciate the response.