Jaager

The technique that I read and stored in memory:
a drill with a shank diameter equal to the inside diameter of the rings
brass or copper wire that is the diameter of the ring body
wrap a tight coil of the wire around the drill shank
saw the coil = lots of open rings
solder
 
I am wondering if a resistance solder machine would play nice for this?
A plot devise in "Crash and Burn" had a primary character go loony from breathing the heavy metals in circuit board solder - so I good ventilation with soldering may be prudent.
 
Copper and brass are ductile - with a jewelers draw plate, theoretically one fat wire can be drawn down to any diameter desired.
There is more to it than that - for brass at least - working it causes it to harden - it gets harder to pull
Heat will harden Fe  -  I think heat will soften brass  and maybe Cu?

For something that is potentially the best of both worlds
 
This system seems to offer the ability to turn paper (something archival) into actual copper
and a chemically reactive material to allow customized areas of verdigris.
 
Reactive Metallic Paints Metal Effects Reactive Metallic Paints are water base and contain real metal particles. These paints will tarnish naturally over time and when exposed to the elements. Metal Effects Patina Aging Solutions & Activators will speed up the oxidation process to create beautiful, authentic Patina, Baroque and Rusted Iron finishes on any paintable surface. Reactive Metallic Paints can be applied using a brush, roller or spray equipment and is suitable for interior/exterior surfaces.
 
Modern Masters AM203-04 Metal Effects Primer , 4-Ounce , White $9.50 ($2.38/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters ME149-06 Reactive Metallic Copper, 6-Ounce $19.99 ($3.33/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters PA901-04 Aging Solution Green Patina, 4-Ounce $9.99 ($2.50/Fl Oz)
 Modern Masters PA902-04 Aging Solution Blue Patina, 4-Ounce $9.99 ($2.50/Fl Oz)
(Amazon)
 
An additional advantage is that by using paper, not only will the plates not pop off after a few years, it will be almost impossible to make the bottom look like it has contracted a severe case of Small Pox.

This is probably about as unique to each person as it gets.
Thinking about it - two of the broad groups  probably are:
Those whose goal is to build an impressive model for display and then move on.  They probably have an unrealistic preconception that wooden models are similar to plastic - just with different materials.
 
Those who are interested in ship modeling in general.  No one particular vessel is their raison d'etre.  Some of the first group become converts to this second one.
 
Starting small is a wise approach for both groups. 
 
Most of the first group probably do not accomplish their original objective because this realm of ours is far more complicated and involved than imagined.
Any kind of rule of progression thru difficulty level would probably not mesh with their degree of patience.
 
For the second group, the journey is purpose.
 
Moving up to a difficulty that exceeds skills  - probably attenuates most of the first group.  For the second, it just means shelving the difficult project and selecting a less difficult one.
 

For most of the past - I use curved Kelly clamps - the direction of the force is oblique to the wrist - which is not ideal.
 
Recently, I have found this MM tool to be useful:
 

At Micro Mark  the name is  Pin insertion plier
 
In general  it is best to pre-drill a hole that is the diameter of the pin in the plank.  In a frame, a hole that is a tad smaller in diameter does better at holding.  For a POB mould - that is end grain plywood - a hole is probably not necessary - end grain is all holes anyway.  A pin probably should not be used as a nail on a scale model.  The bulldozer - blunt force trauma - friction hold holding action is best avoided.

To explain my answer:
That the question was even asked and the way it is phrased indicates to me that the OP is a relative beginner.
 
My process has no function for a scroll saw - I use a 9" bandsaw for my scroll cuttings -I do not need to get close.  I did buy a scroll saw long ago - the economy MM.  It is terrible.  Were I to need a scroll saw, I learned that it needs to be a quality machine - not one that fights you all of the way.
 
The OP should get far enough into this to have a good idea which machines he will need before an expensive machine is purchased.  The time spent using hand tools will be a low cost if he decides that all this is not for him.
If he buys an expensive machine and then bails,  the winner will be whoever gets an expensive saw at low cost from the garage sale.

This is probably about as unique to each person as it gets.
Thinking about it - two of the broad groups  probably are:
Those whose goal is to build an impressive model for display and then move on.  They probably have an unrealistic preconception that wooden models are similar to plastic - just with different materials.
 
Those who are interested in ship modeling in general.  No one particular vessel is their raison d'etre.  Some of the first group become converts to this second one.
 
Starting small is a wise approach for both groups. 
 
Most of the first group probably do not accomplish their original objective because this realm of ours is far more complicated and involved than imagined.
Any kind of rule of progression thru difficulty level would probably not mesh with their degree of patience.
 
For the second group, the journey is purpose.
 
Moving up to a difficulty that exceeds skills  - probably attenuates most of the first group.  For the second, it just means shelving the difficult project and selecting a less difficult one.
 

To explain my answer:
That the question was even asked and the way it is phrased indicates to me that the OP is a relative beginner.
 
My process has no function for a scroll saw - I use a 9" bandsaw for my scroll cuttings -I do not need to get close.  I did buy a scroll saw long ago - the economy MM.  It is terrible.  Were I to need a scroll saw, I learned that it needs to be a quality machine - not one that fights you all of the way.
 
The OP should get far enough into this to have a good idea which machines he will need before an expensive machine is purchased.  The time spent using hand tools will be a low cost if he decides that all this is not for him.
If he buys an expensive machine and then bails,  the winner will be whoever gets an expensive saw at low cost from the garage sale.

You are using terms for the parts that are more appropriate for POF.  This gets you into a whole nuther world of tools.
 
You are asking about the keel as well as asking about cutting out frames  (not really a POF function - the keel is a long stick and frames come from timbers).
I will guess that you mean the spine and the moulds. These are POB components.  The answer here is low cost and simple.
Except that my examples are the expensive options of the tools:
 

 
 

Read this:
In New Member Introduction
New and need help to identify a mystery model? Read here first!
(sorry - I have poor skills in capturing links)
 
 
Unless your great grandfather  worked in a starving artist workshop in the wreckage of post WWI Germany that was turning out these items aimed at a tourist market,  I doubt that you are related to the actual builder.
 
To repeat myself:
 
"What you have there is decorator kitsch.  It is not a ship model in any meaningful definition of the term.  It is something that sorta looks like a ship - from a distance, in dark light, thru a gauze curtain, if you squint.   That said,  it probably has value as its own thing.  I doubt that the value involves much money, but as time passes, what was once one of many copies will become more unique.  If collecting kitsch as kitsch ever becomes a thing, who knows?"
New member Introductions Need Help Identify Model Battleship / Recently Saved From The Curbside
(sorry - I have poor skills in capturing links)
 

For most of the past - I use curved Kelly clamps - the direction of the force is oblique to the wrist - which is not ideal.
 
Recently, I have found this MM tool to be useful:
 

At Micro Mark  the name is  Pin insertion plier
 
In general  it is best to pre-drill a hole that is the diameter of the pin in the plank.  In a frame, a hole that is a tad smaller in diameter does better at holding.  For a POB mould - that is end grain plywood - a hole is probably not necessary - end grain is all holes anyway.  A pin probably should not be used as a nail on a scale model.  The bulldozer - blunt force trauma - friction hold holding action is best avoided.

For most of the past - I use curved Kelly clamps - the direction of the force is oblique to the wrist - which is not ideal.
 
Recently, I have found this MM tool to be useful:
 

At Micro Mark  the name is  Pin insertion plier
 
In general  it is best to pre-drill a hole that is the diameter of the pin in the plank.  In a frame, a hole that is a tad smaller in diameter does better at holding.  For a POB mould - that is end grain plywood - a hole is probably not necessary - end grain is all holes anyway.  A pin probably should not be used as a nail on a scale model.  The bulldozer - blunt force trauma - friction hold holding action is best avoided.

For most of the past - I use curved Kelly clamps - the direction of the force is oblique to the wrist - which is not ideal.
 
Recently, I have found this MM tool to be useful:
 

At Micro Mark  the name is  Pin insertion plier
 
In general  it is best to pre-drill a hole that is the diameter of the pin in the plank.  In a frame, a hole that is a tad smaller in diameter does better at holding.  For a POB mould - that is end grain plywood - a hole is probably not necessary - end grain is all holes anyway.  A pin probably should not be used as a nail on a scale model.  The bulldozer - blunt force trauma - friction hold holding action is best avoided.

This is probably about as unique to each person as it gets.
Thinking about it - two of the broad groups  probably are:
Those whose goal is to build an impressive model for display and then move on.  They probably have an unrealistic preconception that wooden models are similar to plastic - just with different materials.
 
Those who are interested in ship modeling in general.  No one particular vessel is their raison d'etre.  Some of the first group become converts to this second one.
 
Starting small is a wise approach for both groups. 
 
Most of the first group probably do not accomplish their original objective because this realm of ours is far more complicated and involved than imagined.
Any kind of rule of progression thru difficulty level would probably not mesh with their degree of patience.
 
For the second group, the journey is purpose.
 
Moving up to a difficulty that exceeds skills  - probably attenuates most of the first group.  For the second, it just means shelving the difficult project and selecting a less difficult one.
 

This is probably about as unique to each person as it gets.
Thinking about it - two of the broad groups  probably are:
Those whose goal is to build an impressive model for display and then move on.  They probably have an unrealistic preconception that wooden models are similar to plastic - just with different materials.
 
Those who are interested in ship modeling in general.  No one particular vessel is their raison d'etre.  Some of the first group become converts to this second one.
 
Starting small is a wise approach for both groups. 
 
Most of the first group probably do not accomplish their original objective because this realm of ours is far more complicated and involved than imagined.
Any kind of rule of progression thru difficulty level would probably not mesh with their degree of patience.
 
For the second group, the journey is purpose.
 
Moving up to a difficulty that exceeds skills  - probably attenuates most of the first group.  For the second, it just means shelving the difficult project and selecting a less difficult one.
 

This is probably about as unique to each person as it gets.
Thinking about it - two of the broad groups  probably are:
Those whose goal is to build an impressive model for display and then move on.  They probably have an unrealistic preconception that wooden models are similar to plastic - just with different materials.
 
Those who are interested in ship modeling in general.  No one particular vessel is their raison d'etre.  Some of the first group become converts to this second one.
 
Starting small is a wise approach for both groups. 
 
Most of the first group probably do not accomplish their original objective because this realm of ours is far more complicated and involved than imagined.
Any kind of rule of progression thru difficulty level would probably not mesh with their degree of patience.
 
For the second group, the journey is purpose.
 
Moving up to a difficulty that exceeds skills  - probably attenuates most of the first group.  For the second, it just means shelving the difficult project and selecting a less difficult one.
 

This is probably about as unique to each person as it gets.
Thinking about it - two of the broad groups  probably are:
Those whose goal is to build an impressive model for display and then move on.  They probably have an unrealistic preconception that wooden models are similar to plastic - just with different materials.
 
Those who are interested in ship modeling in general.  No one particular vessel is their raison d'etre.  Some of the first group become converts to this second one.
 
Starting small is a wise approach for both groups. 
 
Most of the first group probably do not accomplish their original objective because this realm of ours is far more complicated and involved than imagined.
Any kind of rule of progression thru difficulty level would probably not mesh with their degree of patience.
 
For the second group, the journey is purpose.
 
Moving up to a difficulty that exceeds skills  - probably attenuates most of the first group.  For the second, it just means shelving the difficult project and selecting a less difficult one.
 

@alross2Pardon the intrusion but perhaps you should consider adding some tags at the top:
Oregon
Bluejacket
Great White Fleet
?
 
I have an old'er book  The American Steel Navy  1972/1989 rep  - There are some interesting subjects in the Appendixes..
The Mariner's Museum has( or used to have ) a lot of models from the transition period from 1860 to 1914.  Most are so ugly that they are beautiful.

I believe back in the era when things were fast and loose - when diet pills contained live eggs from tapeworms -  What? they worked!
- shellac thinner was methanol - wood alcohol.  Now it is 95% ethanol -  with an emetic additive to make it tax free. 
Shellac has been listed as "cut".  One pound cut is 1 lb of flakes per gallon of alcohol.  
The amber version is saturated at 3-5 lb cut - I forget which.  I just read that Zinsser premixed is 3lb. 
The darker the color, the more wax.  The wax increases the solubility in alcohol.  I believe super blonde flakes saturate at about 1.5lb cut.
For a first coat - there is better penetration if the concentration is 50% saturated (1:1)  alcohol to dissolved shellac.
 
Until shellac is something that you are comfortable with - it is easier to use the pre-mixed.  Get a Qt. of shellac thinner too.
Amber if it is painted over or the natural wood wants "warming".
White if minimal effect on the existing color is desired.
 
For all practical purposes 95% ethanol is as water free as you can get.
Shellac thinner is less expensive.
 
Pharmco grain from the ABC store will work just as well (190 proof = 95%)  if you want to support state and Fed governments by paying taxes you don't need to pay.
If you come across a deal that seems too good to be true, there is probably a higher water concentration.
 
I have been wondering if moonshine would work.   I distilled ethanol long ago - the 95% comes out of the condenser as much smaller drops than water. 
But I am thinking that moonshine has been diluted or distilled with less care?  Doing the job that they do - already indicates that questionable ethics are in play -so dealing with a moonshiner is false economy.😉
 
 
Both, shellac and ethanol are natural products - brand is pretty much irrelevant.
"If you come across a deal that seems too good to be true, there is probably" something involved that you do not want.
 
For flakes -  right now I like the 1/4 lb bags from Lee Valley.  I am of the hope that the garnet flakes will have a pleasant effect on my Hard Maple - like adding 200 years to the look.

Theory =  full size paint does not need as fine a pigment grind and for reasons of cost probably does not.  At miniature scales, a close look probably resembles a gravel road.
 
I am pretty sure that @Bob Cleek has been espousing the use of premier quality arts oils - both water based and organic solvent based - the stuff in tubes - as the whole of what is needed.  
Infinite dilution,  a flattening agent can be added, for oil base,  polymerizing oils can be added,  these also have a catalyst to speed polymerization.  I would think that even the smallest tubes would last much longer than a mini-bottle of pre-mixed model paints.
 
Two solutions:
a primer coat of 1:1 diluted shellac followed by a full strength coat would provide an ideal base - plus mask any of Nature's glitches in the wood.
(Not sure about silicon from lubricant mis-spread being where it shouldn't = fish eye.)
 
After the final pre-sanding - paint the wood with water  or  water with 10-20% white PVA - then sand again.  This gets the water caused swelling out of the way.

I believe back in the era when things were fast and loose - when diet pills contained live eggs from tapeworms -  What? they worked!
- shellac thinner was methanol - wood alcohol.  Now it is 95% ethanol -  with an emetic additive to make it tax free. 
Shellac has been listed as "cut".  One pound cut is 1 lb of flakes per gallon of alcohol.  
The amber version is saturated at 3-5 lb cut - I forget which.  I just read that Zinsser premixed is 3lb. 
The darker the color, the more wax.  The wax increases the solubility in alcohol.  I believe super blonde flakes saturate at about 1.5lb cut.
For a first coat - there is better penetration if the concentration is 50% saturated (1:1)  alcohol to dissolved shellac.
 
Until shellac is something that you are comfortable with - it is easier to use the pre-mixed.  Get a Qt. of shellac thinner too.
Amber if it is painted over or the natural wood wants "warming".
White if minimal effect on the existing color is desired.
 
For all practical purposes 95% ethanol is as water free as you can get.
Shellac thinner is less expensive.
 
Pharmco grain from the ABC store will work just as well (190 proof = 95%)  if you want to support state and Fed governments by paying taxes you don't need to pay.
If you come across a deal that seems too good to be true, there is probably a higher water concentration.
 
I have been wondering if moonshine would work.   I distilled ethanol long ago - the 95% comes out of the condenser as much smaller drops than water. 
But I am thinking that moonshine has been diluted or distilled with less care?  Doing the job that they do - already indicates that questionable ethics are in play -so dealing with a moonshiner is false economy.😉
 
 
Both, shellac and ethanol are natural products - brand is pretty much irrelevant.
"If you come across a deal that seems too good to be true, there is probably" something involved that you do not want.
 
For flakes -  right now I like the 1/4 lb bags from Lee Valley.  I am of the hope that the garnet flakes will have a pleasant effect on my Hard Maple - like adding 200 years to the look.

I believe back in the era when things were fast and loose - when diet pills contained live eggs from tapeworms -  What? they worked!
- shellac thinner was methanol - wood alcohol.  Now it is 95% ethanol -  with an emetic additive to make it tax free. 
Shellac has been listed as "cut".  One pound cut is 1 lb of flakes per gallon of alcohol.  
The amber version is saturated at 3-5 lb cut - I forget which.  I just read that Zinsser premixed is 3lb. 
The darker the color, the more wax.  The wax increases the solubility in alcohol.  I believe super blonde flakes saturate at about 1.5lb cut.
For a first coat - there is better penetration if the concentration is 50% saturated (1:1)  alcohol to dissolved shellac.
 
Until shellac is something that you are comfortable with - it is easier to use the pre-mixed.  Get a Qt. of shellac thinner too.
Amber if it is painted over or the natural wood wants "warming".
White if minimal effect on the existing color is desired.
 
For all practical purposes 95% ethanol is as water free as you can get.
Shellac thinner is less expensive.
 
Pharmco grain from the ABC store will work just as well (190 proof = 95%)  if you want to support state and Fed governments by paying taxes you don't need to pay.
If you come across a deal that seems too good to be true, there is probably a higher water concentration.
 
I have been wondering if moonshine would work.   I distilled ethanol long ago - the 95% comes out of the condenser as much smaller drops than water. 
But I am thinking that moonshine has been diluted or distilled with less care?  Doing the job that they do - already indicates that questionable ethics are in play -so dealing with a moonshiner is false economy.😉
 
 
Both, shellac and ethanol are natural products - brand is pretty much irrelevant.
"If you come across a deal that seems too good to be true, there is probably" something involved that you do not want.
 
For flakes -  right now I like the 1/4 lb bags from Lee Valley.  I am of the hope that the garnet flakes will have a pleasant effect on my Hard Maple - like adding 200 years to the look.

Theory =  full size paint does not need as fine a pigment grind and for reasons of cost probably does not.  At miniature scales, a close look probably resembles a gravel road.
 
I am pretty sure that @Bob Cleek has been espousing the use of premier quality arts oils - both water based and organic solvent based - the stuff in tubes - as the whole of what is needed.  
Infinite dilution,  a flattening agent can be added, for oil base,  polymerizing oils can be added,  these also have a catalyst to speed polymerization.  I would think that even the smallest tubes would last much longer than a mini-bottle of pre-mixed model paints.
 
Two solutions:
a primer coat of 1:1 diluted shellac followed by a full strength coat would provide an ideal base - plus mask any of Nature's glitches in the wood.
(Not sure about silicon from lubricant mis-spread being where it shouldn't = fish eye.)
 
After the final pre-sanding - paint the wood with water  or  water with 10-20% white PVA - then sand again.  This gets the water caused swelling out of the way.

I have been singularly focused on aniline wood dyes.  Until recently, I have been stuck on the deeper penetration of the water base dye.  Now, I am thinking that at model scale, the difference between alcohol and water depth  is insignificant.  Alcohol as fewer side effects - mostly being faster and not effecting the grain.
 
Rite type fabric dyes probably have to include colorfast - laundry effects.  Not a factor with a model.
 
The careless slang confusion between what a wood dye actually is and a wood stain actually is can result in failure if the wrong agent is used.

@alross2Pardon the intrusion but perhaps you should consider adding some tags at the top:
Oregon
Bluejacket
Great White Fleet
?
 
I have an old'er book  The American Steel Navy  1972/1989 rep  - There are some interesting subjects in the Appendixes..
The Mariner's Museum has( or used to have ) a lot of models from the transition period from 1860 to 1914.  Most are so ugly that they are beautiful.

@alross2Pardon the intrusion but perhaps you should consider adding some tags at the top:
Oregon
Bluejacket
Great White Fleet
?
 
I have an old'er book  The American Steel Navy  1972/1989 rep  - There are some interesting subjects in the Appendixes..
The Mariner's Museum has( or used to have ) a lot of models from the transition period from 1860 to 1914.  Most are so ugly that they are beautiful.