Jaager

Maybe try to leave the top edge of the garboard strake straight?
The bottom edge straight where the keel rabbet is parallel with the baseline?
Only trim the bottom edge where the stem rabbet is rising and to fit the sternpost rabbet?
Save the width adjustment for the rest of the planks between the garboard and the wale?
 
I have seen a few ships where the garboard was twice the thickness of the rest of the bottom planking.
There may have been enough differential movement stress between what the keel wanted to do and the garboard wanted to do that making the garboard less than robust was a bad idea.

https://americanhistory.si.edu/about/departments/work-and-industry/ship-plans
 
The two catalogs will list some of what is available.
 
The transition period from 1860 to WWI  is not really a popular period and not a lot of books cover it.
My library:

OCEANOGRAPHIC SHIPS FORE AND AFT                                 
NELSON,STEWART B                                                 
U S GPO                                      
WASHINGTON               
1971

BALTIMORE CLIPPER, THE  1930                                     
CHAPELLE,H I                                                     
EDWARD W SWEETMAN                            
NEW YORK                 
1968

COAST GUARD UNDER SAIL ,THE                                      
KING,IRVING H                                                    
US NAVAL INSTITUTE PRESS                     
ANNAPOLIS, MD            
1989
 
OLD STEAM NAVY ,THE   VOL.1                                      
CANNEY,DONALD L                                                  
US NAVAL INSTITUTE PRESS                     
ANNAPOLIS, MD            
1990

OLD STEAM NAVY ,THE   VOL.2                                      
CANNEY,DONALD L                                                  
CONWAY MARITIME PRESS                        
LONDON                   
1993

HISTORY OF THE SHIP - STEAM, STEEL AND SHELLFIRE                 
GARDINER,ROBERT ED                                               
CONWAY MARITIME PRESS                        
LONDON                   
1992
 
The Mariners' Museum  used to have plans for sale on their website, but there seems to have been a redesign.
They have/had many models from the transition period - most are strange ducks - I think they have materials from Newport News Shipbuilding and they are from 1891 on.
 
Try Mystic - who knows?
 

Maybe try to leave the top edge of the garboard strake straight?
The bottom edge straight where the keel rabbet is parallel with the baseline?
Only trim the bottom edge where the stem rabbet is rising and to fit the sternpost rabbet?
Save the width adjustment for the rest of the planks between the garboard and the wale?
 
I have seen a few ships where the garboard was twice the thickness of the rest of the bottom planking.
There may have been enough differential movement stress between what the keel wanted to do and the garboard wanted to do that making the garboard less than robust was a bad idea.

"The History of the American Sailing Navy"  H.I.C.
As tempting as it is to use the plans directly from the books, better results can be had by using copies of the originals.  They are available from The S.I. ships' plans department.  The cost is reasonable.  Use the books as a catalog.
There are too many degrees of freedom with a bait that is that general.  Isolate a specialty segment and ask about that.  The more tightly focused is the subject area, the more useful will be any replies. 
A popularity contest will give direction if your object is to build a huge library.  That ambition is better achieved if you are your sole financial manager.

This is not a proper test of the saw.  A new blade would make for a fair test.
It is probably worth less than you pay for it, but HF has a 4"x1/2"arbor 24 tooth carbide blade for $6.00.
It will probably cut better than a blade resharpened by a non-professional.
 
First off, in comparison to a Byrnes saw, the Dremel is junk. 
It will cut.  
The engineering design choices produced a cheesy machine from the start.
 
Just remember that the blade has to match the job it is asked to do.
Ideal is 3-4 teeth in the thickness of the wood.  More teeth = a filled gullet - no cutting, just friction.
A thin blade has more teeth - is called a slitting blade for a reason. 
Wanting less waste to kerf is a universal goal.  Unfortunately, the physics will not support this as far as blade thickness to tooth count.   Someday, a blade material that is paper thin, is really stiff, and is affordable  may be discovered. 
You want less loss to kerf with thick stock?  A bandsaw - a big (14") bandsaw - is the tool for the job. The cost is that all bandsaw blades have a set.  Some have more than others, but none are hollow ground.  There will be additional loss when sanding off the blade scars.

Next, it might be worth considering giving this layer some protection.  I use white butcher paper, but a roll of 3 x1000 foot has become a bit dear.  Home Depot or Slowes have small rolls of contractors paper (the stuff that you walk on in a model home).   For a direct working surface, a 18"x12" x 1/4" piece of tempered glass - edge beveled - is a good glue and cut surface and is dead flat for glue ups.
 
A bit of a drift from being a "dodgy solution"  unless you drop or use the glass as a hammering surface.  A source of worry if you move a lot.

https://americanhistory.si.edu/about/departments/work-and-industry/ship-plans
 
The two catalogs will list some of what is available.
 
The transition period from 1860 to WWI  is not really a popular period and not a lot of books cover it.
My library:

OCEANOGRAPHIC SHIPS FORE AND AFT                                 
NELSON,STEWART B                                                 
U S GPO                                      
WASHINGTON               
1971

BALTIMORE CLIPPER, THE  1930                                     
CHAPELLE,H I                                                     
EDWARD W SWEETMAN                            
NEW YORK                 
1968

COAST GUARD UNDER SAIL ,THE                                      
KING,IRVING H                                                    
US NAVAL INSTITUTE PRESS                     
ANNAPOLIS, MD            
1989
 
OLD STEAM NAVY ,THE   VOL.1                                      
CANNEY,DONALD L                                                  
US NAVAL INSTITUTE PRESS                     
ANNAPOLIS, MD            
1990

OLD STEAM NAVY ,THE   VOL.2                                      
CANNEY,DONALD L                                                  
CONWAY MARITIME PRESS                        
LONDON                   
1993

HISTORY OF THE SHIP - STEAM, STEEL AND SHELLFIRE                 
GARDINER,ROBERT ED                                               
CONWAY MARITIME PRESS                        
LONDON                   
1992
 
The Mariners' Museum  used to have plans for sale on their website, but there seems to have been a redesign.
They have/had many models from the transition period - most are strange ducks - I think they have materials from Newport News Shipbuilding and they are from 1891 on.
 
Try Mystic - who knows?
 

You probably ought to understand that I am more from a minority party segment in all of this;  in no way set any rules, and have an academic ( with lose rules ) bent.  I am not always good at phrasing suggestions as suggestions.  I meant it as a "you might not want to walk in that mine field, but go ahead if you wish" sort of comment.   If you are exploring the possibilities you might wish for suggestions for survey books for each of the many eras and technologies.  Our build log forum has a breakdown into several broad areas.  Spending time there may offer a sample of what is available from kits and in the scratch half, what is available using monographs.  Builds that start with just a sheet of plans are not as common as the shear number of possibilities possible from doing that.
 
Specializing is not at all a requirement.   Covering an area that goes from rafts and hollowed out logs in prehistory to nuclear powered vessels tends to be a bit overwhelming for one lifetime.  Becoming focused on at least a general segment of that range is one way to cope.  
You found two books that are significant and fundamental to me.   They are mostly about the end portion of the Age of Sail and are America centric.    Getting a volume with foldout plans is an excellent find.  My Bonanza reprints do not have that feature.
 
A problem with scaling up photo copies is that the line thickness also increases and things can get imprecise.
 
It would probably be more efficient for me if I could follow my own advise and stay focused.  I am prone to distraction which makes finishing a project a rare thing.   But, I have managed to keep a wall at 1860.
 
 
 
 

You probably ought to understand that I am more from a minority party segment in all of this;  in no way set any rules, and have an academic ( with lose rules ) bent.  I am not always good at phrasing suggestions as suggestions.  I meant it as a "you might not want to walk in that mine field, but go ahead if you wish" sort of comment.   If you are exploring the possibilities you might wish for suggestions for survey books for each of the many eras and technologies.  Our build log forum has a breakdown into several broad areas.  Spending time there may offer a sample of what is available from kits and in the scratch half, what is available using monographs.  Builds that start with just a sheet of plans are not as common as the shear number of possibilities possible from doing that.
 
Specializing is not at all a requirement.   Covering an area that goes from rafts and hollowed out logs in prehistory to nuclear powered vessels tends to be a bit overwhelming for one lifetime.  Becoming focused on at least a general segment of that range is one way to cope.  
You found two books that are significant and fundamental to me.   They are mostly about the end portion of the Age of Sail and are America centric.    Getting a volume with foldout plans is an excellent find.  My Bonanza reprints do not have that feature.
 
A problem with scaling up photo copies is that the line thickness also increases and things can get imprecise.
 
It would probably be more efficient for me if I could follow my own advise and stay focused.  I am prone to distraction which makes finishing a project a rare thing.   But, I have managed to keep a wall at 1860.
 
 
 
 

Next, it might be worth considering giving this layer some protection.  I use white butcher paper, but a roll of 3 x1000 foot has become a bit dear.  Home Depot or Slowes have small rolls of contractors paper (the stuff that you walk on in a model home).   For a direct working surface, a 18"x12" x 1/4" piece of tempered glass - edge beveled - is a good glue and cut surface and is dead flat for glue ups.
 
A bit of a drift from being a "dodgy solution"  unless you drop or use the glass as a hammering surface.  A source of worry if you move a lot.

This is not a proper test of the saw.  A new blade would make for a fair test.
It is probably worth less than you pay for it, but HF has a 4"x1/2"arbor 24 tooth carbide blade for $6.00.
It will probably cut better than a blade resharpened by a non-professional.
 
First off, in comparison to a Byrnes saw, the Dremel is junk. 
It will cut.  
The engineering design choices produced a cheesy machine from the start.
 
Just remember that the blade has to match the job it is asked to do.
Ideal is 3-4 teeth in the thickness of the wood.  More teeth = a filled gullet - no cutting, just friction.
A thin blade has more teeth - is called a slitting blade for a reason. 
Wanting less waste to kerf is a universal goal.  Unfortunately, the physics will not support this as far as blade thickness to tooth count.   Someday, a blade material that is paper thin, is really stiff, and is affordable  may be discovered. 
You want less loss to kerf with thick stock?  A bandsaw - a big (14") bandsaw - is the tool for the job. The cost is that all bandsaw blades have a set.  Some have more than others, but none are hollow ground.  There will be additional loss when sanding off the blade scars.

"The History of the American Sailing Navy"  H.I.C.
As tempting as it is to use the plans directly from the books, better results can be had by using copies of the originals.  They are available from The S.I. ships' plans department.  The cost is reasonable.  Use the books as a catalog.
There are too many degrees of freedom with a bait that is that general.  Isolate a specialty segment and ask about that.  The more tightly focused is the subject area, the more useful will be any replies. 
A popularity contest will give direction if your object is to build a huge library.  That ambition is better achieved if you are your sole financial manager.

This is not a proper test of the saw.  A new blade would make for a fair test.
It is probably worth less than you pay for it, but HF has a 4"x1/2"arbor 24 tooth carbide blade for $6.00.
It will probably cut better than a blade resharpened by a non-professional.
 
First off, in comparison to a Byrnes saw, the Dremel is junk. 
It will cut.  
The engineering design choices produced a cheesy machine from the start.
 
Just remember that the blade has to match the job it is asked to do.
Ideal is 3-4 teeth in the thickness of the wood.  More teeth = a filled gullet - no cutting, just friction.
A thin blade has more teeth - is called a slitting blade for a reason. 
Wanting less waste to kerf is a universal goal.  Unfortunately, the physics will not support this as far as blade thickness to tooth count.   Someday, a blade material that is paper thin, is really stiff, and is affordable  may be discovered. 
You want less loss to kerf with thick stock?  A bandsaw - a big (14") bandsaw - is the tool for the job. The cost is that all bandsaw blades have a set.  Some have more than others, but none are hollow ground.  There will be additional loss when sanding off the blade scars.

"The History of the American Sailing Navy"  H.I.C.
As tempting as it is to use the plans directly from the books, better results can be had by using copies of the originals.  They are available from The S.I. ships' plans department.  The cost is reasonable.  Use the books as a catalog.
There are too many degrees of freedom with a bait that is that general.  Isolate a specialty segment and ask about that.  The more tightly focused is the subject area, the more useful will be any replies. 
A popularity contest will give direction if your object is to build a huge library.  That ambition is better achieved if you are your sole financial manager.

Next, it might be worth considering giving this layer some protection.  I use white butcher paper, but a roll of 3 x1000 foot has become a bit dear.  Home Depot or Slowes have small rolls of contractors paper (the stuff that you walk on in a model home).   For a direct working surface, a 18"x12" x 1/4" piece of tempered glass - edge beveled - is a good glue and cut surface and is dead flat for glue ups.
 
A bit of a drift from being a "dodgy solution"  unless you drop or use the glass as a hammering surface.  A source of worry if you move a lot.

Next, it might be worth considering giving this layer some protection.  I use white butcher paper, but a roll of 3 x1000 foot has become a bit dear.  Home Depot or Slowes have small rolls of contractors paper (the stuff that you walk on in a model home).   For a direct working surface, a 18"x12" x 1/4" piece of tempered glass - edge beveled - is a good glue and cut surface and is dead flat for glue ups.
 
A bit of a drift from being a "dodgy solution"  unless you drop or use the glass as a hammering surface.  A source of worry if you move a lot.

Next, it might be worth considering giving this layer some protection.  I use white butcher paper, but a roll of 3 x1000 foot has become a bit dear.  Home Depot or Slowes have small rolls of contractors paper (the stuff that you walk on in a model home).   For a direct working surface, a 18"x12" x 1/4" piece of tempered glass - edge beveled - is a good glue and cut surface and is dead flat for glue ups.
 
A bit of a drift from being a "dodgy solution"  unless you drop or use the glass as a hammering surface.  A source of worry if you move a lot.

For a while, an important resource for ship modeling supplies was based in your city:
Coker Craft,  by P.C. Coker
 
There seemed to be a major focus in your area of interest in the content of an expired quarterly journal - Model Shipwright.    Back issues are available in several second hand dealer inventories.

For a while, an important resource for ship modeling supplies was based in your city:
Coker Craft,  by P.C. Coker
 
There seemed to be a major focus in your area of interest in the content of an expired quarterly journal - Model Shipwright.    Back issues are available in several second hand dealer inventories.

For a while, an important resource for ship modeling supplies was based in your city:
Coker Craft,  by P.C. Coker
 
There seemed to be a major focus in your area of interest in the content of an expired quarterly journal - Model Shipwright.    Back issues are available in several second hand dealer inventories.

For a while, an important resource for ship modeling supplies was based in your city:
Coker Craft,  by P.C. Coker
 
There seemed to be a major focus in your area of interest in the content of an expired quarterly journal - Model Shipwright.    Back issues are available in several second hand dealer inventories.

For a while, an important resource for ship modeling supplies was based in your city:
Coker Craft,  by P.C. Coker
 
There seemed to be a major focus in your area of interest in the content of an expired quarterly journal - Model Shipwright.    Back issues are available in several second hand dealer inventories.

I believe the active ingredient in Sparex is hydrosulfuric acid.  It is classified as a weak mineral acid.  This means that its pH (an inverse measure of hydrogen ion concentration) in water is higher than that of a strong mineral acid ( sulfuric, hydrochloric, nitric, hydrofluoric, hydrobromic acids).  All will dissolve metals.  The strong acids just do it more quickly.  It is wise to treat it with respect, pay close attention to the recommended exposure times, and take care with how it is discarded (totally neutralize).  
 
M.E.K.  is still available from hardware retailers according to a search.  It is very dangerous to breath, possibly fatal if the body inhaling it is also metabolizing certain other toxic substances at the same time.  For our uses, acetone is a much less toxic and is an effective substitute. 

I believe the active ingredient in Sparex is hydrosulfuric acid.  It is classified as a weak mineral acid.  This means that its pH (an inverse measure of hydrogen ion concentration) in water is higher than that of a strong mineral acid ( sulfuric, hydrochloric, nitric, hydrofluoric, hydrobromic acids).  All will dissolve metals.  The strong acids just do it more quickly.  It is wise to treat it with respect, pay close attention to the recommended exposure times, and take care with how it is discarded (totally neutralize).  
 
M.E.K.  is still available from hardware retailers according to a search.  It is very dangerous to breath, possibly fatal if the body inhaling it is also metabolizing certain other toxic substances at the same time.  For our uses, acetone is a much less toxic and is an effective substitute. 

I believe the active ingredient in Sparex is hydrosulfuric acid.  It is classified as a weak mineral acid.  This means that its pH (an inverse measure of hydrogen ion concentration) in water is higher than that of a strong mineral acid ( sulfuric, hydrochloric, nitric, hydrofluoric, hydrobromic acids).  All will dissolve metals.  The strong acids just do it more quickly.  It is wise to treat it with respect, pay close attention to the recommended exposure times, and take care with how it is discarded (totally neutralize).  
 
M.E.K.  is still available from hardware retailers according to a search.  It is very dangerous to breath, possibly fatal if the body inhaling it is also metabolizing certain other toxic substances at the same time.  For our uses, acetone is a much less toxic and is an effective substitute.