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wmherbert

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  1.    Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic: Finish of the Waterway
  2.    RossR reacted to a post in a topic: Finish of the Waterway
  3. wmherbert
    I've always painted the waterways the color of the bulwarks rather than matching deck finish. I don't know if that is correct but it certainly is easier. Bill
  4. wmherbert
    I like wipe on poly. I usually use satin. I paint it on with a brush so I can control the edge and then wipe with a rag. Use some blue tape to mask off where you don't want it to go. Bill
  5.    Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic: Hercules by vaddoc - 1:64 - Steam Tugboat
  6. wmherbert
    Thanks Vaddoc , I'll find a lot of uses for these! Bill
  7.    Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic: Hercules by vaddoc - 1:64 - Steam Tugboat
  8. wmherbert
    Where did you find the plumbing parts you used for potholes? Bill
  9. wmherbert
    Still looking but for my next build. Any help appreciated. Bill
  10. wmherbert
    This works great
  11. wmherbert started following Libertad 1925 by Valeriy V - Scale 1:100 - Spanish Type F Light Cruiser , USCG Harriet Lane by Knocklouder - Model Shipways - 1:144 (1/12 inch = 1 foot) , Henriette-Marie – Hull Color Scheme, Second Planking and Keel Upgrade and 2 others
  12. wmherbert
    I did not double plank my hull. I did take a series of photos of the building process as well as kept track of the time each step took if you are interested. It's a nice model to build even with the typical Billings instructions or should I say, lack of instructions. Bill
  13. wmherbert
    Here's one Bill
  14. wmherbert
    One question i have for people using pedestals is how do you adjust them so that the waterline is horizontal if the keel is not parallel to the waterline , for example I think most keels have some dead rise so if you used same size pedestals the ship would be tilted up or down when mounted. Using brass tubes like I do I can cut tubes to different lengths to get waterline level. I have always been curious about how modelers do that with pedestals. Bill
  15.    catopower reacted to a post in a topic: Ship base display advice
  16.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: USS Cape (MSI-2) by Dr PR - 1:48 - Inshore Minesweeper
  17.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: USS Cape (MSI-2) by Dr PR - 1:48 - Inshore Minesweeper
  18. wmherbert
    Well , just did a little Google search which i should have done before and i see some life rings have a 13 inch inner diameter, and a larger size have 23 inch. So there you go. I guess the navy ones were for really small saliors (haha) Bill
  19. wmherbert
    This has been fun to follow along. One question. Life rings on my boat had a inner diameter big enough for a man to slip in to. I've never see actual measurements for life rings (if indeed they are some what standard) but I think mine were more like 18 inches inner diameter and about 30 inches outer diameter. Just curious, Bill
  20.    CiscoH reacted to a post in a topic: Ship base display advice
  21. wmherbert
    I drill a hole up thru the keel where I want the supports to be and insert and glue in a stiff wire. I use brass tube to mount it on. Those I drill a hole and glue into a wood base. Then I fill the tubes with Jen weld epoxy and before it sets I lower the hull and wires into the tubes. Oh and I usually file the tube end to fit the keel. Of course you need to sure to get tubes the right lengths so that waterline is level and to secure model with something while epoxy dries. I put some extra blocking when framing to strengthen the places where the wires will be But I think you could drill the holes for the wire after boat was complete if you had help and were careful. And keels are usually wide enough for the wire hole drilling. I hope this all makes sense. Bill
  22. wmherbert
    Yes thank you Bill
  23. wmherbert
    This build keeps getting better and better. Do you have any tips on making bends in styrene rod? Due to lack of soldering skills i have been making hand rails etc from styrene. But getting bends is tricky. I gently heated spots to get a bend which can work but is hard to control. Many time I've had to make 45 degree cuts and then glue to get a 90. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Bill
  24. wmherbert
    Doing a beautiful job. One question are you using a mini table saw to cut the small strips? Trying to get uniform strips of say 1/32 × 1/16 is quite difficult for me. Any tips? Bill

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