wmherbert
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Ship base display advice
wmherbert replied to mastic's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
One question i have for people using pedestals is how do you adjust them so that the waterline is horizontal if the keel is not parallel to the waterline , for example I think most keels have some dead rise so if you used same size pedestals the ship would be tilted up or down when mounted. Using brass tubes like I do I can cut tubes to different lengths to get waterline level. I have always been curious about how modelers do that with pedestals. Bill -
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Ship base display advice
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USS Cape (MSI-2) by Dr PR - 1:48 - Inshore Minesweeper
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Cape (MSI-2) by Dr PR - 1:48 - Inshore Minesweeper
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Well , just did a little Google search which i should have done before and i see some life rings have a 13 inch inner diameter, and a larger size have 23 inch. So there you go. I guess the navy ones were for really small saliors (haha) Bill
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This has been fun to follow along. One question. Life rings on my boat had a inner diameter big enough for a man to slip in to. I've never see actual measurements for life rings (if indeed they are some what standard) but I think mine were more like 18 inches inner diameter and about 30 inches outer diameter. Just curious, Bill
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wmherbert started following New BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit in development: West Coast lumber schooner , Ship base display advice , Bluenose II by bnw - Artesania Latina - 1:75 and 2 others
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Ship base display advice
wmherbert replied to mastic's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I drill a hole up thru the keel where I want the supports to be and insert and glue in a stiff wire. I use brass tube to mount it on. Those I drill a hole and glue into a wood base. Then I fill the tubes with Jen weld epoxy and before it sets I lower the hull and wires into the tubes. Oh and I usually file the tube end to fit the keel. Of course you need to sure to get tubes the right lengths so that waterline is level and to secure model with something while epoxy dries. I put some extra blocking when framing to strengthen the places where the wires will be But I think you could drill the holes for the wire after boat was complete if you had help and were careful. And keels are usually wide enough for the wire hole drilling. I hope this all makes sense. Bill -
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St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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This build keeps getting better and better. Do you have any tips on making bends in styrene rod? Due to lack of soldering skills i have been making hand rails etc from styrene. But getting bends is tricky. I gently heated spots to get a bend which can work but is hard to control. Many time I've had to make 45 degree cuts and then glue to get a 90. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Bill
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Your build is coming along very well. Here was my attempt at a cover using silkspan. I cut it oversized so it would hang over the sides a bit. I wet it down to fold and bunch it up. Then I glued a long strip of silk span along the edge around the boat. Trying to look like a sewn piece. Then attached some thread as tie downs. The trick is getting the material that folds over the edge to not bunch up too thick. I have 4 to do on my current build so I am interested to see how your method with the triangular tabs works out. Bill
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Planking disaster
wmherbert replied to sgrez's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
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Planking disaster
wmherbert replied to sgrez's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hey, that's no disaster. For first time to me it looks really pretty good. You're going to cover it all with second layer. After a smoothing sanding of first layer and the practice of the first layer I think it will come out great. Don't be discouraged, you should see some my planking jobs! Bill -
Well. Whatever the problems it came out quite nice. Bill
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