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chris watton

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Everything posted by chris watton

  1. All of my kits are full kits, all include masts and rig. In fact, all plans for this one are already complete, including the mast and rig plans.
  2. And here are some pics of the 'pre-prototype', the hull I used to getconfirmation (or not) of the main parts fit. The channels were changed, as the original plans had them located in different positions, and the main channels needed changing due to the forward most 'stool' being just a little too forward of the main mast.. This hull served its purpose and is now in the bin.
  3. OK, just a little update. I have been very busy, if not producing stuff, then trying to carry on with my next two smaller developments. Today I finally completed the hull detail for kit number 15, the gun brig Adder of 14 guns (1797 - Acute Class). 12 x 18 Pounder carronades and 2x24 Pounder carriage guns. I think this has taken three weeks in total to get this far, perhaps two weeks for masts and rig. Size wise this fits neatly in between Alert and Speedy. The designs were a lot more involved than I initially anticipated, with the bluff bow and foredeck drooping down as it goes forward, presumably to help negate the recoil of the large 24 Pounders. As with Trial Cutter, it has drop keels, and all hull detail above main wale is pre cut and engraved, meaning very little planking required, which is also painted (or coppered) anyway. This was meant to be a nice cheap and simple kit, but as usual, I went too far, and ended up with a very detailed little kit with many laser cut and engraved sheets. Scale - 1:64th (of course..) Hull Length - 406mm Overall Length (Rigged) - 606mm Height Overall - 464mm This class was a Henslow design, and if you don't like the name, there is quite a choice: Acute Adder Asp Assault Biter Blazer Bouncer Boxer Bruiser Clinker Contest Cracker Crash (!!) Sparkler Spiteful All ordered and built in 1797 Adder was actually lengthened in 1798 to 97' along the main deck, so I doubt she was ever coppered in the as built guise. Most seem to have been coppered at a much later date after their launch, hence the white bottom. No idea how well this will sell....
  4. Nothing to do with me. I do have Surprise designs, but they have never left my PC. I think this is more a case of copying other manufacturers techniques rather than thinking and innovating for themselves. I see this a lot. It does grate when I see this crap, but I avoid as much as possible and just do my own thing.
  5. You do not have to fully rig it, you can leave off all sail related rig and just add yard rig, the ties, lifts and braces, and leave it at that. That also means a lot less blocks to tie to the lower yards.
  6. Yes, the coamings are directly copied from original plans, it seems most had the rounded corners.
  7. I suspect because it was virtually the exact same dimensions as Victory Class, and after spending years developing such a kit, half your enquiries about the kit would be 'Yeah, but when is Victory available, I want Victory'
  8. Better to use PVA only along the inside edges of the deck, and around the inside of the deck openings, but not so close to the edge that allows the glue to seep out.
  9. You can score the deck down the centreline, to enable it to fold, rather than bend.
  10. I made a mistake in my post, this was 64th scale and the main source used for the hull was the original plans for the Concorde, and not Belle Poule, which has a completey different hull form.
  11. I always find it better to do just a little fairing of the most extreme parts before gluing in place, and then doing the main faring once the whole skeletal structure is securely in place - because the material is homogonous, sanding should be quite easy when compared to ply.
  12. Well done, and I can confirm that you chose a very good printer.
  13. Well, all I know is that I cannot order my PE copper plates. If it is the same this time next year, then copper tape will have to be the norm for kits that need it. I much prefer the PE plates, but needs must...
  14. According to my photo etch suppliers, copper is not available right now, and hasn't been for almost a year now.
  15. I prefer to wait until copper becomes available again before developing kits that have copper bottoms.
  16. A little longer on that, as we need to move to a larger premesis in order for me to produce another kit of that size. That or I let Indy stock run down completely, stop selling it and another large kit take its place. It comes down to space to stock the kit parts, laser cut sheets,materials, boxes, plans/manuals etc. Whe have, or the company has outgrown our home.
  17. Around the same size as the Artois Class too, give or take a foot or two. And being a 36, she would have been armed with the long 18's, whereas the 38's had the short, in general.. I always imagined Hornblower's fictional 36, Lydia to be Phoebe Class....
  18. Has to be sweet Phoebe, a frigate that seen a lot of action during her career. Almost did this before Indy.
  19. I will do a Restoration Era warship at some point, but because it would be a two year development and also expensive, not for a while, and not while I have a 36 gun 18 pounder Napoleonic frigate itch that needs a desperate scratch at some point before then.
  20. For belaying, if in doubt, just belay to the nearest appropriate point that doesn't foul any other lines.
  21. After years of trying to figure out the best sequence for the standing rigging, I found that, for me at least, the best thing to do is add all shrouds, lower and topmast, incuding lower futtock shrouds. I then add the ratlines while the area is still uncluttered with rigging. After this, the topgallant shrouds are added, then onto the stays. I sometimes fit the yards before shrouds, pinning them so I can tilt them up or down when doing the ratlines. After shrouds and ratlines, rigging comes together pretty quick, as the shrouds and rats are last longest single job to do on the model.
  22. I do have the gun brig Adder and another small kit that will soon be released in the new year (All they need is the prototypes building and then manual completed, as everything else is done, designs, cut files, plans etc.) - and yesterday I did make a small start on my 17th kit. ETA - This year hasn't been so bad, with Indy released in March, followed by Grecian and Trial cutter, plus the Speedy rework, which was no small job.
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