oakheart
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Everything posted by oakheart
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Next Time - ha ha, nice to see someone has faith in my new found skills ... Tim ps I have not been napping, but did not want to show plank by plank, more coming later today. -
That looks looks like it should do the job, nicely done. Tim
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Thanks James, I will keep recording what I manage to get done, mistakes and all, as Håkan said it's a learning process. Tim
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Thanks for the encouragement, it means a lot. Tim ps .I think my next model after I have finished this pair may well be a kit........
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I think the bottle may be a tad large for this small boat, if I tried to smash it on the bow. ................ oops. Tim 🙂
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So here we go. First plank in place, used PVA with long open time so I had time to get it in the right place. Let it glue up overnight. very pleased with the no rabbet, just beveled the plank and you can hardly see the join.............. 1 down 15 more to do......... Tim
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Well we hope so ! Thanks for all of your support here Allan, and everyone else, I could not of got to this point without it. Tim
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Finally got this thing lined out, cotton seemed to work. Not sure about the stem end? This was really what I should have done before I tried to understand the planking, it really helps. Now to transfer this to templates. Most of it looks pretty straight foward, but I'm not sure how I measure and transfer the area between Station H and the stem the cotton is stretched in straight line but i need a curve how best to proceed here? Any advice would be welcome. Ignore the broken temporary square section, it had a nice curve then snapped, I should have soaked , live and learn Tim
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OK decision made at least for the first of the two builds, this will be the 'dirty' boat. No rabbet on this one, using the ply keel as it will be covered in tar/pitch as per Blights log. I am not happy with the way the futtocks cut out of the molds ( frames) the scroll saw seemed to have a mind of it's own today.... Still I should be able to clean up a bit when I have planked it. It's all glued up now so in the morning when the glue is hard, the transom needs fairing. Then I can line it out Not sure whether to use cotton or thin tape to do the lining having never done it before, maybe try each on different sides Then I can get on with cutting the planks ( spilling ) to fit Tim
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That is looking really good. Can't wait to see the planking go on. Tim
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Welcome Wizard, only a couple of weeks ago I was welcomed here as a newbie, I have found it a great place with lots of helpful knowledgeable people. Love you first build. Tim
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Just drawn a custom planking fan, lets see if it works......... I still have not decided to go with or without a rabbet, there are good augments for both. Visually I am leaning towards no rabbet, as it will be easier to control the look of the join line. Tim
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Now it begins to make some sense, thanks again Craig. I will spend this morning practicing my marking out based on your explanations. First to print out a planking fan and cut some extra tick strips. Tim
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Having researched the subject, I am still having problems working out the planking on this boat. Am I conflating two or more different ways of approaching the problem. Chucks Passaro, David Antscherl and others. Here is what I understand so far : The planks are widest at station 0 and taper forward toward the stem and back to the stern ( transom ) So for each station I take a measurement of the frame from keel to gunwale in mm, divided by number of planks = plank width in mm at a scale of 1:24, I have the following dimensions on my tick strips in mm as a start stem : ?? station H : 40 / 8 = 5mm station 0 : 60 / 8 = 7.5mm station 8 : 44 / 8 = 5.5mm transom : ?? The widths at stations in between are then marked on tick strips by transferring dimensions from a planking fan. I still have not fully understood the use of the fan yet, more reading required here. When joining those dots what determines the amount of curve between stations? as a side note: I have a wonderful set of french curves that I got from the widow of a boat designer some 45 years ago. At last I can put them to their proper use. Tim
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That makes sense, if it was a 'rubbed' joint it would be difficult to see the join. Tim
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Don't know, I will do a test on my Version 1 frames and let you know. Most of the inside of the keel / strakes junction should be covered by the flooring planks ( forget the real name ). Tim
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Hi Hakan Thank you, I will try to do a bit more fairing before I proceed. I will use a piece of wood and not card to give me a better idea Tim
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Thanks for your input, but this is a different model, the planking does not go over the deadwood, this was discussed previously on ? Allans build ? Tim
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Hmm, all I want is a good looking model, will it make a difference which way I go? I am tempted by the no rabbet idea. Most of the time the model will be viewed from above and the join between the keel and the plank will not show as a dark shadow. If I cut a rabbet the join will show as a shadow line. As long as I can get a good bevel on the planks, I think the no rabbet would look better When I made models to be photographed all I wanted to achieve was something that looked good to the camera lens, what the eye did not see was not important. Tim
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Here is a couple of photos of the planking templates I've been working on. They are not glued in place, just held by the clamps, lots of adjustments to make before I commit to the good wood. Also I have not cut the rabbet yet. I have read on this site about not needing to do that? Comments please................. This is fiddly, I don't think I could do this at 1:48 like Allan is building I would become a nervous wreck.
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I love all of those ideas, just need to get the hull complete, then try some of them out Tim
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looking at all of the variations in post 21, on my build I think I will opt for, counting left to right No. 7, it's simplest to make ( typical of me ) also on all of the contemporary artist drawings / paintings I don't remember any showing a rubbing strip? anyone else see anything? Tim
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The frames are now pretty fair. So working on my planking,. I have made some progress using cardboard templates then transferring the shape to basswood sheet. I am finding it easier to cut and sand the basswood to fit than cut / trim the card. So I may just waste some of my basswood sheet to make set of masters. Then cut the hero parts from those. I am now even more in awe of how the kit makers like Chuck Passaro and Chris Watton manage to design and produce their kits. Hats off to you guys. Tim
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Thanks for the links, I have read the articles on this site along with others, the book seems to cover a clinker built hull, which although of interest may not help with this launch which is carvel planked. There are some amazing videos of full size planking builds on YouTube. Again interesting but difficult to translate to model making. Tim
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While fairing the frames today I was thinking about what Bligh and the crew may have done to make the canvas screen round the edge of the boat... As Purcell the ship's carpenter had his saws he could have sawn up bits of the boat to make parts for the screen. Did the just use a low strip all the way around, sort of like a canvas washboard or did they use big sheets of canvas fixed at the gunwale then up to the rigging to keep the worst of the constant splash from the big waves. Did they catch rainwater in canvas sheets . Use four oars fixed upright in a square with canvas across the top, hole in the middle with a bucket in under the hole. now the mind races away, how will I model this ? nobody knows what they did so I can make up anything that I think might have worked, could be fun. Does anyone have any other ideas? Okay back to the sandpapering now. Tim
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