oakheart
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Everything posted by oakheart
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That's some really good interpretation work there. I can hardly understand the language from the book. Your drawings, brilliant as usual, are really useful to those of us at the planking stage like you. Thank you for sharing them. Ti m -
You can probably tell, for this scratch build I have been heavily influenced by Chucks longboat kit design ( Thanks Chuck ), the jig base and other elements are a direct copy. This is not a pirate copy honest! Tim
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Hi Gregory, thanks for dropping in, I was just going through your build this morning, very nice. I have picked a load of good details already, thank you for sharing your build with us newbies. I will down load those docs and read through them. I am really having fun working out how to progress with this build. With all the help I am getting it may even get finished. Tim
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After reading loads of the planking tutorials on here and watching chucks videos etc. etc.. I still have questions. For the Garboard Strake ( the plank next to the keel ), 1: How do I work out the curve for the stem end? 2: How do I work out how far forward should it be? Here is the one that Craig did for his 16ft cutter, even scaled the curve in not right for my 1:24 23ft launch I could just use the cardboard template I have made and keep hacking at it until I get something that fits, but is there a better way? Tim
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I also do a lot of work on brass using a jewelers piercing saw and the rules are similar with regards to teeth number and stock thickness, every blade manufacturer has a chart. When cutting wood for model boat making on my old Delta scroll saw I use a medium tooth count piercing saw blade ( will have to check count ) it's very fine compared to the chunky blades normally supplied for scroll saw use. I tend to use the No. 4 size with 15 tooth count I have gone finer but for wood these are good. If I can keep it straight, It will cut down the centre of a 0.3 mm line. The blades are good for hardwood, plywood upto about 12mm thick. Not so good for ripping along the grain. see https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/buying-guide/a-jewellers-guide-to-saw-blades/ for chart of sizes Tim
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Thanks for the compliment. I have used measurements directly off the ZAZ7361 drawings ( ha ha against ingrained brainwashing ), would they be different from those on your scantlings list. The futtocks are 2.4mm square to be correct they should be 2.1and tapered, but they became too flimsy so I beefed them up. If I used 2mm plywood it might work, or I could try the bent square section like you did. I will stick with this as my first build and see how it works out. Your description of the gunwale on your build log really help me to understand how the top of the planks should go together. Tomorrow I will make some tick strips and cut some 1 mm cardboard planks to start setting out my planking Tim
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Thanks for the encouragement. I like the chalk idea, it's a shame I don't have any laser char to guide me 🤐 Tim
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Yes there is a foot with it, have a look at photos of the Delta scroll saw, it just has a rod/bar that is attached to the rear frame, with another rod that holds the foot. I personally never use it, I find it gets in the way, as long as you use your fingers to hold the work down there should not be a problem. It's just a matter of practice. also fine blades are better than coarse in keeping the problem at bay. Tim
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So after my tea break here they are, a landmark for me. This is with the plywood keel that I will use while fairing the frames. It's difficult getting all of the frames fitted into the keel, a bit like having taken a clock to bits and trying to get it back together I think that will do for today. Tim
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That looks like the one Tim
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This morning I realized I was getting ahead of myself, I need to cut the frames and base first, then do the planks. It's easy to get over excited and get carried away. Well I find that I do. 🤪 So the rest of the frames are cut out, having a cup of tea then I will sand them to size. Tim
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Hi Riotvan, It does tilt. Just checked again - there are no markings at all not even on the motor! Runs and cuts okay, picking up on Jaagers comment about the up/down problem, there is a sort of hold down fork but no brackets but you could easily cobble something together. For PnP the size is 55 x 30 x 22 cm and weight is probably closer to 30 kilos, ( my Delta is quoted as 30 k ) I could wrap it in corrugated cardboard and bubble wrap. Parcelforce are quoting £15 for 2 day delivery Should we take this offline, not sure what the rules are on here as I am still a new boy. Tim
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So I just made a drum from some aluminium rod about 10 mm dia. used some sandpaper from a 120 grit sticky back sanding disc cut to size. Thanks for tip on speed. When I ran it fast and tried to hog off too much, the rod heated up, the sticky back melted and let go. so I cut a new piece of the sandpaper, slowed the speed down to about 1200 rpm, took much lighter cuts of about 0.1 mm per push / pull through. The useful thing about using the mill table is I can tell how much I have dialed down the thickness for each pass. It takes about 5 'cuts' to go from 1.5mm to 1.0 mm thickness that's much better, I do have to be careful to make the push / pull consistant or I get dips in the plank. I definitely need to get the dust collector fixed uo on this set up. I know what I am doing tomorrow. TIm
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Thanks for the encouragement. I will do some testing on the speed of the drum as well, thanks Tim
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Mini Mill as sanding thicknesser, proof of concept. A quick test using a 12 mm Dia. Dremel sander drum some ali. angle and a band saw cut pine strip. Well it works with a few basic things that I need to address: The base of the drum needs to be below the bottom edge of the strip or it leaves a ridge. The drum needs to be straight sided - the Dremel tool has a slight bulge to it. The drum needs to be wide enough to cover the whole strip Even with this very crude setup, using the movement of the Mini Mill table cross slide I could accurately sand down to 0.5 mm It feels very controllable, so now off to make a more substantial drum and angle guide Then test with different grits. Thanks for the tips guys. Tim
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It's an old, no name saw with a cast iron table, single speed and takes pinned blades. There is a set of adapters to take pin-less blades It will be expensive to send from Hereford as it weighs a ton ( well about 25 kilos ). There are 2nd hand saws on Ebay quoting £30 delivery. I suppose it might be worth £50 ? Not having a manufactures name makes it difficult to look up Tim
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Thanks, Good to know it does work, I have some aluminium bar which I could turn down in the lathe for a drum, stick some sandpaper on it and give it a try. Having mainly worked with metal for the last few years, the metal bar seems easier than the MDF for me. Does the diameter of the drum make a big difference ? I guess I should make several sizes ? Tim
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With the cutting of the frames well underway, I now have to start thinking about the planking. I have some 0.8mm basswood sheet which I will use for the as sailed version. But the 1.5mm thick Cedar strips I want to use on the raw wood version, need to be reduced down to about 0.9mm to be accurate for the 1:24 scale. I don't have a thickness sander, but I do have a mini mill and I have seen people cobble together a sanding drum on a pillar drill to do thicknessing of strips. It could work using the mill spindle head with a shop made sanding drum. Question : has anyone done anything like this? I should have known it would be like this, one thing leads to another, a very deep rabbit hole... Tim
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That looks like a lot of hard, accurate work to me, I'm surprised it's not stained with spots of sweat, given the temperatures down there With my build 'old habits die hard' I'm taking the easy way out and using a single frame, hats off to you for going for the hard way. Tim
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The Cornish replica had to use a laminated stem, they could not find a big enough piece of bent timber, all of the oak for the futtocks and floors came from just up the road from me here in Herefordshire. Tim
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All very neat and tidy, I'll have to pull my socks up. Tim
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Hi Allan, not dense at all, yes its to locate and strengthen the frames. As you say it will not show. That's also why I am being lazy and making the frames in a single piece, rather than like CrazyCraig who is making floors and futtocks. At our scales that would get really fiddly, with the floor boards in place this difference will not show. Tim
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I did the frames for my 85 ft Harbor tug on a scroll saw. You can pick them up pretty cheaply locally, our club here in the UK has one looking for a home right now. Shipping would probably cost too much. Tim
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Difficult to tell from the photo, is that stem laminated ? Tim
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Managed to get two versions of the keel cut today. One in plywood the other in cedar. Learned that it's not a good idea to try and do this kind of work in a mainly metal workshop. Pick the wrong piece of sandpaper ( wet-n-dry ) and the wood gets very grubby ..... lucky it was the ply version. I will use the ply version while fairing the frames. It was good practice for cutting the 'good ' version Pleased with the good cedar version it all needs careful fettling now. It's really easy with this soft cedar to round over the edges, I will have to watch that, I'm too used to brass which needs a lot more elbow to make it conform Tim
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