reilly

Hello all again; continuing my apprenticeship with the Cheerful.
   I milled the planks with maple, and finished the sides above the wales and the stern, I used the cherry for the wales, marked the bulkheads preparing for the lower planking. I love all the information on this forums; Real Mastership on these forums, I am glad to find this site. Everybody: have a Great day!!! 

Here is the package that got me into this mess, the plans, all the mini-kits from Chuck, the wood from Crown, and of course the former and bulkheads laser cut from Chuck.
 

 
I found very early on that I'm going to need to acquire some tools that I don't currently own (like a scroll saw) in order to go too deeply into this build, so it will be interesting to see how far I can get down the rabbit hole before getting more toys.
 
I started by gluing the two parts of the former together after cleaning up most of the laser char.  After it was glued I discovered that a bit of one of the pieces was warped a bit, so I used heat and weights to straighten it out over a period of about 3 days.
 

 
Once I was happy with the former I used a piece of 1/16 x 1/8 holly strip that I had on hand for decking for a future project to shape the rabbet strip along the bottom of the former.  Again using heat, I pre-bent the strip to mostly fit the former, so that it wouldn't gap when clamped.  I then glued the rabbet strip in place.
 

 
And that's where I am today.  Next I can start on the keel parts, which are laser cut, so require some cleanup before assembly.
 
As with the Picket Boat, this log will likely progress very slowly due to a limited amount of time that I have available to work on ship building currently.  Also, needing to get a scroll saw.

Greetings everyone, and welcome to my first 'concurrent' build log, as I begin the semi-kit (or semi-scratch, depending on your point of view) build of the revenue cutter Cheerful, from Syren Ship Model Company (Chuck Passaro).  I've chosen to place this log in the kit build section, since I am using laser cut parts from Syren for the 'back bone' - the former, keel, and bulkheads, as well as all the mini-kits that are available for the ship.
 
This log is starting due to a set of materials that were put on sale in the trade section of this website, and I couldn't resist grabbing it, even though I have far too many kits on the shelf right now.  Included in my purchase was everything that Syren produces for this ship except the new pump kit, along with what was apparently a custom wood order from Crown Timberyard with a Holly deck package and boxwood planking strips.
 
As with my other current build log, the Picket Boat #1, this first post will be primarily for an index.  The actual log begins in post #2 to follow.
 
Section 1 - Constructing the backbone (former, keel, bulkheads).
1. The beginning - the former (false keel).
2. The keel.
3. Bulkhead start (side trip - beginning the windlass).
4. Bulkheads all on (side trip - windlass part 2).
5. Gunport sills - starboard side.

Welcome to my newest build log my friends. I picked the Benjamin W Latham because it's the largest model I have. It a 1:48 scale so I should have ample room for details.
 
With my Ranger bash there was virtually nothing left of the original model. With this bash I'm going to build most of everything, but leave it the same ship. I'm also going to take this one as far as I can with the details, adding any/everything that was on this fishing schooner. I like the look of real wood so I'll be staining, not painting, this model.
 
Launched on Oct 30, 1902, she was designed by Thomas F McManus(Boston) and built in the shipyard of Tarr & James(Essex, Massachusetts) for Captain Henry Langworth(Noank, Connecticut). She was built as a sailship and fitted with a 48-horsepower engine sometime during her 2nd or 3rd season. A 72 ton mackerel seiner, she had in tow one seine boat and accommodations for a crew of 15. As with most fishing vessels, most of her career was undocumented, finally lost off San Juan, Puerto Rico in 1943.
 
So take a seat and buckle up, we're going on a journey. I will attempt to make this build an intriguing one. Thank to everyone for all the help and encouragement I received on my previous builds, I welcome you all back again.

Hi All,
 
Continuing on I’ve completed sanding the bulkheads to the desired thickness.
The false deck was cut out of some 1/16” cherry I had on hand. I made it out
of two pieces and after adjusting and fitting it I had a minor gap in the middle
which I filled with wood filler.
 
Once that was completed I planked the bulkheads and painted it with Red Ochre.
 

 
Here you can see that the cap rail has been completed and the margin planking has been started.
 

 
That’s the fun stuff.
 
Well the Admiral and I have purchased a different home and I am now in full
renovation mode. Sadly by the end of this month (April) the workshop will
shut down until the move has been completed and a new workshop constructed.
 
The new shop will be in a 12x20 section of the basement that is currently unfinished.
 

 
So it is going to be a happy/sad time coming up. It will be thrilling to double my
workshop space but shutting down the shop for 3 months or more will really be annoying!
So I will be getting done what I can in between work and the renovations till the end of
the month.  

Great start Rusty....good to see you back in the workshop and starting a log!!!!!  

Thank You.....I just finished making the winch.  This is a pretty straight forward fitting.  The pieces were cut taking the measurements from the plans.  Nothing was to difficult but care was taken to make the winch handles look more attractive than just using a piece of black wire.  So I cut some micro tube to slip over the end of the handle to give it some dimension.   
 
This is the last deck fitting before the rigging prep starts.  I will finish the rudder and tiller first however.
 
Then there is the bowsprit bitts up front which also contain the pawl for the windlass.   But I would like to have the bowsprit made while making that.   Once thats finished I will add the two long guns at the bow......
 
That is everything that is left before the rigging begins so I feel like I am getting into the home-stretch.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

After a few re-do's ( cut a shroud instead of a ratline at the fore mast )
I have make the lower shrouds and the ratlines.
Futtock staves and catharpins.
I must say, after I cut the shroud I have remove all of it at the foremast and re-do the shrouds.
They are better then the first time.
So the re-do was not lost time.
Only use a little more rope......
 
I can talk and talk but I think that you wanna see some pictures.
Here they are.
 
Sjors
 
( When you click on the picture, you can magnify them       )

A milestone was reached today along with a a few small updates. . .
 
Not surprisingly, it was pointed out at the last club meeting that the starboard side boom crutch was leaning a bit outboard compared to the other one. I was able to correct this after removing it and re-sanding the bottom surface to a slightly different angle. The back of each crutch was also sanded to mimic to the overall curve of the transom. Maybe not perfect, but overall I'm satisfied with the result.
 

 
I quickly found that making the strops for the deadeyes (those attached to the chainplates) were going to take some trial and error fitting in order to determine the proper length. A small change and they would rise above or fall too far below the cap rail fancy molding.
 
With that in mind I made a simple jig to make uniform strops at the proper length. 22 gauge wire was bent around .045 music wire (Photo 2) and formed to the proper length (photo 3). After inserting a 5/32" dowel into the hole (photo 4) the wire is crisscrossed and pulled tight against the dowel (photo 5). The wire was then ready to be cut and wrapped around the deadeye.
 

 
Prior to attaching the chainplates and a number of eyebolts, the wales were lightly sanded, taped off and given final spray coats of Grumbacher "Mars Black" Acrylic paint. I have switched over from the W&N acrylics since having difficulty getting their "Mars Black" acrylic paint to brush on evenly and dry thoroughly. The outer hull details are now completed other than some weathering detail on the plates.
 

 
Moving to the inboard details, I drilled out the inboard scuppers and made the catheads.
 

I've been busy over the past few days with the timberheads, those pesky boom crutches and painting. The timberheads proved to be not too difficult as long as I was careful while filing them to shape. The boom crutches proved to be another story as making these put my patience to the test. I only had to make three to get the required two though the process took the better part of a day. I was relieved to get them glued on the boat. The cleanup painting continues. . . .
 
Viewing the boom crutches from this angle distorts the symmetry of the two pieces but you should be able to get the general idea of how they look.

 

I was able to complete the inboard stern details today. The knees with 5mm cleats, 9mm cleats on the stern frames, 22 gauge wire horse, false stern post and seats were added. There are tiny washers at the base of the horse made from 28 gauge wire. After forming them they were flattened with a plier. The outside diameter is only .065 so they are quite small. Being very hard to handle a few did end up as a permanent fixture in the carpet.
 

A little update concerning the progress in rigging HMS Surprise.
 

 
It was a surprise for me how time consuming the detailing of each and every sail turned out...
 

 
...and there are quite a few very specialized objects to create. In scale 1:48 you see allmost everything.
 

 

My Cheerful is now complete. I have mounted the anchors, which was the last remaining work to be done. As I indicated earlier, I was having trouble coming up with a mounting plan with which I was happy. My solution, after reviewing photos of contemporary models, and trying out various configurations, was to mount the two anchors differently. On the congested port side, I chose to go with lashing the anchor to two timberheads, without a cable or cat block. On the more open starboard side, I went with the anchor hanging from the cat block, with a cable leading back to the windlass and being tied off to it, as shown on the Rogers collection model. 
 
I would like to take this opportunity to thank all of you on MSW who have followed this build and provided the kind of support, encouragement and friendship that we have come to expect from the members of this site. I also want to thank Chuck for coming up with this project and the products to support it. It has been one of the most enjoyable builds that I have done.
 
Attached are photos of the anchor installation and the  model's completion portraits.
 
For those interested, my next build will be the Caldercraft Granado. A full description of the reasons for the choice and my plans for the build will be set out in the log that I will be starting today in the kit build section ( how's that for a cheap ploy to get all of you to look at the new log      ).
 
Bob

I've now mounted and rigged the boom and gaff. Before describing that work, I present a cautionary tale. This about not thinking far enough ahead and simply following plans without research or thought. I had chosen to mount and rig the yards before the boom and gaff. In the past, I have done this both ways without much difference. In mounting the yards, I decided to use simplified trusses, as shown on the plans with a note that many cutters did not use them and they are optional. I chose to use them because they help to hold the yard to the mast securely during rigging. Not until all of the work on the yards was complete did I notice on the the plans that the gaff is shown as being above the lower yard on the mast. Since the gaff slides up and down on the mast, this seemed an odd and improbable situation.
 
At this point, I contacted Chuck to get his input on this. He agreed with my conclusion, but provided persuasive evidence from contemporary models that this was, in fact, the way it was done on many cutters, particularly those that did not employ trusses on the lower yard. I was going to try to remove the truss and mount the gaff above the yard, when it became apparent that the only way to accomplish this would be to remove virtually all of the rigging to the yards that was now in the way. I chose not to do this, but go with mounting the gaff below the yard, as shown on some models with trusses. It also seems, from my exchange with Chuck, that if a truss was employed and the gaff shown below the yard, the fore and aft braces on the lower yard, one of the most visually interesting features of the cutter rig, would not be used, but only the forward brace.
 
In any event, the boom and gaff are now in place and rigged. Mounting involved making parrels for each from black beads. The boom rigging consists of a topping lift and the boom sheet. The gaff rigging involved the peak and throat halliards and the flag halliard. All of the blocks had been attached to the boom and gaff and the masthead before mounting the boom and gaff. After completing this work, I permanently tied off a number of lines that had previously been only temporarily done and added rope coils.
 
This completes the rigging except for the lower yard braces. While I understand that it is probably accurate to use only the forward braces, given what I've done, I really like the look of the double braces.   What should I do?
 
Bob

I'm a little behind in my posting, because I've had some computer issues that have kept me from accessing or using my photos. Hopefully, all is resolved now.
 
The topsail yard has now been fitted out, mounted and rigged. As with the lower yard, the fitting out included adding the foot ropes, blocks, the yard portion of the halliard, the lifts, the clews and the braces. With all of that completed , I mounted the yard to a pin on the topmast and completed the rigging. This involved running the halliard through the masthead sheave and then adding it's tackle, running the lifts through blocks seized to the masthead, completing the clews and adding the sheets which were then run down through the sheaves in the lower yard and running the braces through a block hooked to an eye at the bowsprit tip.
 
From here, it is on to the gaff and boom.
 
Bob

Thank you!!!
 
Here is a first crack at a breech rope.  I am using my .035 light brown rope.   I think it looks pretty good.   This was just a first attempt to go through the motions and now I will detail how I did it.    You can spend endless amounts of time tweaking how this rope falls so it looks natural.  After a while one has to say it look good enough.    Four more to go and then the tackles are next.
 
Note to self.....paint the underside of that cleat. LOL
 
Chuck
 

Most of the revenue cutters had them this wayafter 1800 or even a weirder looking carriage.  This was the most normal..
 
Here is a plan detail of ZAZ6992 which actually says its for carronades on revenue cutters circa 1812.  Its a little weird but its one of those things that make it interesting.  This is from the NMM collection.  
 

 
 

Just a small update.  I worked on the inboard stern details.  The seats are completed.  Card templates were made first using the plans as a guide.  Then they were tweaked to get a nice tight fit with the parts.
 

 
Cleats were added...these are all laser cut Syren cleats (5, 7, and 9mm).  All that was needed to do was sand them a bit to shape and then add a piece of wire as a pin.  Then they were glued into place.  I decided to paint these bulwark red also to match the many contemporary models I have seen.
 

 
Finally....the horse was added for the boom sheet.  This was just a small piece of wire bent to shape.  Two small washers laser cut from paper were added to finish it off nicely on each end.   They were painted to look like metal.  I should have dusted the model better before taking the pics....next time 
 
I will now continue my way forward along the bulwarks adding eyebolts, cleats, ladders and pin rails.
 
Chuck

Decking is completed now some trim around the edges, once that is done light sanding with 340 paper.

During a "house call at the West side of the state I also had time to work on my "Harley"
I have come to the stage of "decking" as in the picture the king plank is attached.

To simulate the caulking I used a borrowed graphite pen.

It's a tedious job doing the simulated caulking but progress is certainly on the way.

And yes, I am the one doing the job  ....

I would like to learn to blacken metal properly, and have read through many threads on MWS regarding various blackening agents. A few references have been made, that Bluejacket sells their own version, but I haven't found any reviews or clear experiences stated. How does their product compare to the other options like Casey's or Jax?
 
The Bluejacket website is not very helpful, as it doesn't include any information beyond a title:
 
PN0051 Pewter Blk (blackens Britannia) $8.50 PN0052 Brass Black (copper,too) $8.50  
It says "directions included", but I wouldn't mind knowing what I'm getting into before ordering blind. Are these for soaking or brushing on? How toxic or fume-producing? I do my modelling in my living room, so would like to minimize the nastiness used.
 
If there is a thread or clear report on Bluejacket that I missed, I'm sorry. I searched both the Paint and Metal forums for "blacken" and read all the results as far as I know.

I guess this is a milestone post. The hull is now essentially complete (a few exterior eyebolts to be done during rigging, the anchors and entry rope stanchions, to be done when they won't get in the way).
 
As I indicated in my last update, to finish the deck items, I had to do the bowsprit. My lack of a lathe caused me to make this in a somewhat different way. The bowsprit consists of a tapered round portion and a square section inboard. I chose to dowel and glue a square piece of boxwood to a round dowel and fair it in by sanding. I then tapered  the round portion by sanding, filed in the shoulder and shape of the forward end and drilled and cut in the sheave. The bowsprit was finished by staining the dowel portion golden oak and painting the inboard and most forward portions black.
 
The bowsprit bitts were made from boxwood strip filed to shape with knees cut from boxwood sheet. After temporarily positioning the bowsprit and marking locations, holes were drilled through the bitts and the square portion of the bowsprit for a brass rod to hold the bowsprit in position in the bitts. The bitts were then pinned and glued to the deck, the bowsprit was permanently mounted by inserting the brass rod and boxwood pieces were glued on to cover the holes in the bitts and above the bowsprit.
 
The last deck piece was the windlass. This was made using Chuck's mini kit. I actually had made this up earlier and it took a couple of days to do. It is a marvel of design and engineering. While I believe that I could have done this from scratch, it would have taken me weeks, rather than days, and would not not have looked nearly as good as this. After the windlass was glued in place, I added pawls, made from black painted strip, from the bitts to the windlass gears.
 
For whatever reason, the photos won't attach in the order that I chose, and appear below in random order. They include three that reflect the current state of the model.
 
Bob
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks so much Chuck, Deon , Ken and Mike for the nice comments and also the "likes".
 
I'm looking forward to the rigging as well, although I have many questions after looking at the plans, photos of the contemporary models, and rigging sources (Lees, Lever). First among them: is the bobstay a doubled line?; is it served? 
 
Bob

Hi Charlie,
I have no experience with all of these models, but from what I can see they seem to follow the above described pattern: they do resemble Doughty's design somehow, but do not care too much which one (31, 52, 75 tons?), all have just fictitious names and are probably all based on the same set of inaccurate italian plans (you can clearly see there key similarities, despite the different scale). If you buy them and try to measure and find the match with original, you may be dissappointed . I really hope this latest BlueJacket kit is another league.

... and I guess you know this - very nice representation of Alabama class revenue cutter made by Prof. Tilley - pics available freele on the web, I am happy to have the original one at home purchased from some antique shop years ago, I believe originally prepared and printed upon request from Historical department of USCG?...  It may have few things that are not like 100% to be realle there (small carronades aside), but it is still the best overall representation I know
 

 
EDIT: actually, if we speek of Alabama class, the whole class consists of only two vessels AFAIK, so there is not much room for any generalization, it shall be only Alabama or Louisiana. The principal question really is what shall the kit represent.