The Sailor

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

Build log part 5
 
 

for making the stand Posts I use brass candle holders (found on flee-markets)
 

the anchorchain port reinforcements are fitted
 

begin... rivited structure to deckhouses and hatch rims
 

further Fitting out
 

midship deckhouses, on deck inbetween the coal bunker hatchcovers
 

forecastle compartments
 

so far well under way...
 

workdecks ready for priming, painting
 

the figures are scale 1:100
 

the portside depth indications are in Roman figures
 
 
 
Build log part 6 to follow....

Build log part 4
 
 
characteristic for These old steamships are the large vents, necessary more than ever when going through hot,tropical zones of calm sea...
 
Here is to give my Version of the vent Hood making..., and the main masts, and crows nest
 
 

sizes and types of vents
 

an Arrangement of inlet and outlet vents
 

prefit check with the decks
 

application of primer after soldering and cleaning the brass surfaces
 

was quite a bunch of individual parts
 

inner Hood surfaces have their own color
 

as well as the outside surfaces
 

Forward and aft mast
 
 

do not throw away your old dome-nuts, they serve for exellent venthoods
 
 

especially those where the dome Shell is made and brased on of thin pressed sheet
 
 
 
 
Build log part 5 to follow.....

Building log part 3
 
 

brought on White primer coating and Sub waterline red
 

the last Picture where the hull is still fixed to the baseplate. The upper hull portions shall be plated and painted when the decks have been permanently mounted
 

hull seperated from baseplate, all went well, no Twist, no destortions
 

extreme lightweight hull, prop- and ruddershaft already mounted, superstructure for deck Support can be seen
 

riged structure in forecastle area
 
 

decks made from 1,5 mm thick 4-layer Aeroplywood
 

the Forward maindeck, 3 hatches, and the quite Long poopdeck, 2 hatches,(working decks) are going to be metal plated. These decks were of steel plating due to rough cargo handlingand overcoming heavy seas. The cardboard template behind hatch #4 Shows the riviting pattern for deck plating
 

hatch # 1 behind the forecastle bulkhead
 

bow section before finalizing the decks and the final plating
 
 

raw workdecks mounted, midship deckhouses started, hull painting done and forecastle bulleyes mounted. It`s now slowly looking like a ship should be...
 
 
 
 
Build log part 4 to follow.....

Build log part 2
 
 

planking completed, rudder and sternpost reinforcement mounted, minimized Polyesterfiller where necassary, and poopquarter knee-whale attached
 
 

impressions of rudder making components
 

the five blade prop is only an interim solution, a four blade historic prop with blades bolted-on the central hub is to follow later
 

here first time experience Begins with metal plating for hull
The hull wooden surface is sanded smooth and fixed with quick dying transperant liquid filler, which drys off quickly leaving a real smooth and shiny surface on which the self-adhesive Aluminium foil sticks like hell. No Problem with roll-embossing the foil plates from the rear plate side, because the rivit immitations are roolled-in before the protection foil on the plate rearside is removed, giving free the glue film.
 

Workstation for making the plates
 

leave a gap between first and second plating line, the third plating line is set by overlapping the edges of first and second line
Note : vertical rivit Joints have 4 rows of rivits, horizontal Joints have 2 rivit rows
 

plating nearly done, the whole hull is still mounted to the shipyard baseplate
Mounted into the keel are two reinforced M5 female threads for the later to be mounted stand-bolts
 

the upper hull portions have not been plated yet
 

soldered, full functional mounted rudder before plating, shaft going through to poop deck
 

here the upside down 135 cm Long hull is nearly ready for seperating from the baseplate, it is very stiff, riged and of lightweight

Thanks for the build log Nils. I'm really surprised about the sails on the plan...

Steamship Heinrich Kayser
 
Introduction to this build log, by Nils Langemann
 
The steamship Heinrich Kayser was launched in 1898 baptized to its birthname „Elbing“ and was one of the typical new fast merchant vessels built for the D.A.D.G. (Deutsch Australische Dampfschiffahrts Gesellschaft) shipping company at the FSG shipyard in Flensburg, northern Germany. It served the trade route Europe via Cape of Good Hope or via Suez Canal and the red sea and across the Indian Ocean to several Australian Ports together with her sister ships on regulary basis for many years.
After WW1 and in compliance with the Treaty of Versailles demands the Elbing went under command and management of a british shipping controller, from which the “Elbing” was bought back again by the Hamburg based Kayser & Sohn shipping Company in 1921, which renamed the vessel to “Heinrich Kayser”. In 1922 my grandfather was appointed as the master in command on its last fatal voyage from England to the US eastcoast, down to Florida and back touching Norfolk Virginia as last port and thereafter went down with all aboard her in a heavy full gale and with broken rudderchain and broken hatchcovers. The last SOS radio signals came from position of the New England Seamount Chain, some 500 miles off the US eastcoast where the Atlantic is 5000m deep. No survivers, not a trace was ever found. This type of ship was a mere cargo steamer of 5600 tons, which may have been able to accommodate 2-3 passengers, midships. The Heinrich Kayser was capable of cruising at max. of 12 knots with her twin-boiler arrangement in tandem setup, and having appr. 20 firemen (stokers and heaters), working in shifts to keep the boilers at pressure accordingly.
I built this model, which is already completed to date, after a shipyard overview plan in honor to my grandfather and all its 43 souls crew and three passengers.
It is only a couple of weeks ago that per incidence, and 91 years after that foundering, on a raised web forum thread I was able to take up contact with an american lady, who`s great grandmother as well as her great aunt have been on board the Heinrich Kayser at that time and lost their lives as passengers way back in 1922
The build log shall comprise probably 21 individual parts due to limit of pics per post, and shall document all building sequences in pictures. Comments, questions, etc. shall be welcome and answered along with the build log as it grows.
The model took me appr. 1800 manhours to build over 2 years including the search for a plan, new modeling techniques like metal- plating /”riveting”, soldering, glass-case making, all trials, etc.
The fully completed model can be viewed in my album (steamship Heinrich Kayser) under topic : Gallery of completed scratch built models
Have fun and enjoy whilst studying this oldtimer steamer of 1898 in its buildup
 
Nils
 
Here it Begins.....
 
Build log part1
 

this is one of the ship under its birthname "Elbing"
 

this is one of the very last Pictures of the Heinrich Kayser
 

overview plan frontsection
 

overview plan aftsection
 

stringers and single-layer planking in pine
 

 

 

planking under way, propshaft built in
 

Frame plan, self drawn, not included in overview plan
 

planking nearly completed
 
 
 
Part 2 to follow....

Hi friends,
cannons for assembly on the Gun-Deck prepared.
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  4 1

Haha, I‘m following the instructions.
 
The photo shows the reason:
 

 
The stripes along the rail edges are part of the deck with one difference: They are blue like the hull above the waterline. That means planking the deck first and then sanding the complete deck to get everything to the same level. After this part is done I can paint the hull. The reverse order would spoil the coat of paint.

Thank you very much for your big interest, Alfons, Kerry and Floyd.
 
You are right Floyd, the instructions are very limited. I started with the bulb area covering and then down from the deck line. I did the same with the second planking.
 
Well, painting the hull. In fact Endeavour have a steel hull but one option of the kit is leaving the bottom covered with the mahogany planking. The photo shows how big this area is.
 

 
I didn't measure the waterline exactly, but I think it's a little to low on this photo.

Richard.
 
Is the deck planked with mahogany as well? Will it be painted or left natural?
 
Anyways, I am very keen to follow your planking progress The size of your Endeavour certainly allows for a deatailed and beautiful deck planking.
 
Keep up the good work.
/Alfons

Haha, I‘m following the instructions.
 
The photo shows the reason:
 

 
The stripes along the rail edges are part of the deck with one difference: They are blue like the hull above the waterline. That means planking the deck first and then sanding the complete deck to get everything to the same level. After this part is done I can paint the hull. The reverse order would spoil the coat of paint.

Haha, I‘m following the instructions.
 
The photo shows the reason:
 

 
The stripes along the rail edges are part of the deck with one difference: They are blue like the hull above the waterline. That means planking the deck first and then sanding the complete deck to get everything to the same level. After this part is done I can paint the hull. The reverse order would spoil the coat of paint.

Very Nice! so your Planking is done. Thanks for the info. She actually look like a very easy build. Have you decided what Blue paint you are going to use?

Excellent work Richard - will you be marking the waterline with a white stripe? She's really shaping up.
hamilton

Wow great job  - painting a hull like this would cover some impressive work, could you make that decision a bit later ?
Kerry

Nicely Done! I think when I get there I will just plank over the slot.

Good work Richard! How about skipping that paint and go for 7-10 layers of vanish on the whole hull instead..
 
/Alfons

Thank you very much for all your nice comments and hitting the „Like“ Button.
 
Hi henryjames, I‘m looking forward to seeing your build log.

Hi Row, first of all you are a lucky man been aboard of Endeavour. Well, it‘s an odd hull form and - believe me - not everything looks perfect. But overall I‘m happy with the result and in doubt I can paint the whole hull.

Hi klimi, I‘m building her as the Endeavour of 1934.

Erik, the part straight above the rudder was indeed tricky to plank. As you can see on the photo, this part is moulded using wood filler.
 

 


Fortunately the vaneer stripes are very easy to bend.
 

 



Finally the last two photos:
 
The planked stern...
 



 and the evidence...
 


...that the slot is still open!

Thank you very much for your big interest, Alfons, Kerry and Floyd.
 
You are right Floyd, the instructions are very limited. I started with the bulb area covering and then down from the deck line. I did the same with the second planking.
 
Well, painting the hull. In fact Endeavour have a steel hull but one option of the kit is leaving the bottom covered with the mahogany planking. The photo shows how big this area is.
 

 
I didn't measure the waterline exactly, but I think it's a little to low on this photo.

Thank you very much for all your nice comments and hitting the „Like“ Button.
 
Hi henryjames, I‘m looking forward to seeing your build log.

Hi Row, first of all you are a lucky man been aboard of Endeavour. Well, it‘s an odd hull form and - believe me - not everything looks perfect. But overall I‘m happy with the result and in doubt I can paint the whole hull.

Hi klimi, I‘m building her as the Endeavour of 1934.

Erik, the part straight above the rudder was indeed tricky to plank. As you can see on the photo, this part is moulded using wood filler.
 

 


Fortunately the vaneer stripes are very easy to bend.
 

 



Finally the last two photos:
 
The planked stern...
 



 and the evidence...
 


...that the slot is still open!

Thank you very much for all your nice comments and hitting the „Like“ Button.
 
Hi henryjames, I‘m looking forward to seeing your build log.

Hi Row, first of all you are a lucky man been aboard of Endeavour. Well, it‘s an odd hull form and - believe me - not everything looks perfect. But overall I‘m happy with the result and in doubt I can paint the whole hull.

Hi klimi, I‘m building her as the Endeavour of 1934.

Erik, the part straight above the rudder was indeed tricky to plank. As you can see on the photo, this part is moulded using wood filler.
 

 


Fortunately the vaneer stripes are very easy to bend.
 

 



Finally the last two photos:
 
The planked stern...
 



 and the evidence...
 


...that the slot is still open!

Thank you very much for your big interest, Alfons, Kerry and Floyd.
 
You are right Floyd, the instructions are very limited. I started with the bulb area covering and then down from the deck line. I did the same with the second planking.
 
Well, painting the hull. In fact Endeavour have a steel hull but one option of the kit is leaving the bottom covered with the mahogany planking. The photo shows how big this area is.
 

 
I didn't measure the waterline exactly, but I think it's a little to low on this photo.

Thank you very much Jeff, Nils and Mark.
 
Well, I think I was just lucky with the first planking. Believe me, the kit supplied walnut stripes for the second planking are of very good quality. Besides the bulwark area needs a stronger planking.
 
And here are the first pictures:
 

 

 
 
Look at this:
 

 

 
This is a very remarkable stern design for a ship of the 19th century.

Thank you very much, B.E.

Well, the main problem with the gunport patterns provided with my kit was the grain of the plywood. It was easy to bend the patterns horizontally, but imposible bending them vertically. My method was much more easy but a little more time consuming. But don‘t get me wrong, there were no problems at all glueing the gunport patterns of my Pickle. Next time I‘ll try it again with the provided patterns first.

Anyway, the cutting is done and she looks like a warship now.
 

 

 

 
After cutting the oar ports on portside I can start with the second planking.