Pitan

Looks like good progress. Off topic, I'm intrigued by your scenic materials (I think), and, (maybe) figure armatures in the background of your last photo.

Looks like good progress there.

I haven't been able to replace my blocks, though I have tried to soften corners on the ones I have. All of Sherbourne's canons are now rigged with 0.2mm out-hauls, and 0.4mm breech ropes. The out hauls will be trimmed to length after test fitting to the model, while the breech ropes are all 60mm. Longer breech ropes would give more space to work the guns, but I settled for 60.

Thanks guys. I've ordered some finer rope (0.2mm for the haul ropes, and a choice of 0.4mm & 0.5mm for the breach ropes) and some fly threads (8/0, couldn't find 10/0).

I'm having problems with the size of the guns, and any blocks I try to add. Ruler scale is in mm. The smallest commercial blocks I can find are 2mm*, seen here with one of Sherbourne's 3 pounder (3 lb) guns. Does this look right? Questions What do other people do if they need a smaller block? (Is there commercial option?) Is there a better solution? * 2mm at 1/64 scales to ~5 inches full size.

Thank-you @Thukydides for pointing out that post, there are several useful ideas there.

Think I might steal your approach to the hooks on the blocks here. Thank-you to @Thukydides for pointing out your post.

I'll follow with interest.

A small update today. The gun carriages and anchors have been assembled. Sherbourne will carry the historic six guns as described in the supplied history, rather than her 'official' complement of the eight. I made wire rings for the anchors, rather than use the supplied flat photo-etched items. The guns all have breech ropes. Getting them to this stage was easier than I feared. Next step should be adding retaining eyes and the tackle for running the weapons out.

Sorry for such little progress in the past seven months, and no posts. Time, and over time, for an update. We have a ship's boat. This is Vanguard's 3d printed 14' yawl, which is (I think) the smallest vessel they offer. It will fit between the mast and the bilge pumps (round holes to right of the image). I'm not sure how the boat will be stowed, though this seems to be the most logical location. FWIW, I replaced the yawl's tiller with a brass pin, the (somewhat blurred) head of which can be seen in the photo. Other changes. Visible in the photo above are round belaying pins. These are turned brass items, painted. These replace the supplied photo etch pins. A traveller for the jib. This is attempt four or five, made from a mix of brass and bronze wires. The design is based on an illustration in Petersson's Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft. The traveller in place on Sherbourne's jib, together with a bent pin acting as a keeper. Sherbourne is a beginner's kit, and doesn't include any means of holding the jib at the stem. I added a piece of U shaped wire to aid in this task (is this a gammon iron?). Sherbourne, as she is now. The jib and main mast are dry fitted.

Or reviewing that design, plasticard down to 0.25 mm is available, and can be cut into strips. Again, I'm not certain that needs to be supplied by Vanguard

Rails could be replaced with wire*, which would be more robust, so easier both for the customer and yourself. Brackets would be useful though. *Customer can supply the wire if needed, either from electric cable, or from a reel ... we are modellers after all.

I, too, would like a boat in one of these, smaller, sizes. A wooden kit would be my preference, though I understand the drive toward a 3d printed hulls.

Interesting, never heard that one before ... think I'd make a small change, Stable. Same expantion, but not so black.

Sorry for the slow reply, Paddy, but I did pretty much as @ECK suggests. The glue applied there was mean (thin), and I probably missed a few bulkheads. If I recall correctly, I did pre-bend the bulwarks to reduce the stresses later in the build.

Thanks Ah, from the throat - OK, that answers my question

Looking at a picture of HM Revenue Cutter Wickham, the lower fore corner (tack?) of the vessel's gaff sail is raised. Link: https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/hms-revenue-cutter-wickham-164013 This raised corner appears in other images by the same artist (Robert Salmon, e.g. "The Scottish Lighthouse Board's tender" https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/robert-salmon-british-1775-1845-the-scottish-ligh-91-c-92142e49ab) Questions: How was the tack raised? Was there a block for an up-haul, and if so, where was it attached? Maybe to the mast, or to the gaff? Would there have been a down-haul?

Thank-you, she is elegant.

Been a while since I posted an update here. Masts and spars have been painted, and now have blocks attached, ready for mounting. I've made a few adaptations: Rather than use the supplied etched belaying pins, turned brass ones have been used The windlass was supplied now has sockets for levers (bars/spokes?).

Back to Sherbourne, the masts and spars have been shaped. In the kit, Chris gives a choice of bowsprit bits, one with a round hole, and another with a square opening. I decided to use the square, and made the bowsprit from 5mm square walnut (the supplied dowel is 5mm walnut). There is a short tenon to allow me to fit the bowsprit into the bit's hole (4mm square). Lacking a lathe, I'm more comfortable making tapered masts and spars from square section wood than the round dowels supplied. As far as I recall, the only kit supplied dowel I used was the lower mast (it has no taper, though the top is narrower), spars with a taper were made from square strip. Masts dry fitted Aside: of the three yards suggested in the kit, I've only made the lower one. This is because I want to add sails. Often, near contemporary paintings show just the one yard, quite low on the mast - maybe as low as 2 man heights (10-12 foot) above the deck, sometimes higher. For example, works by Robert Salmon: The Scottish Lighthouse Board's tender (https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/robert-salmon-british-1775-1845-the-scottish-ligh-91-c-92142e49ab); you may also find this called a Naval Cutter, but the ensign otherwise. HM Revenue Cutter Wickham (https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/hms-revenue-cutter-wickham-164013) Revised sail plan suggestions: Based on the Scottish Lighthouse Tender Based on HM Cutter Wickham

That's very nice ECK, and quickly built.

Agree, the coat tails look long for practical wear, especially on the standing figure. I'd question the standing figure's coat lacking a vent or split from the waist down; that may make sitting down difficult (though ladies skirts seem to work well enough). Digging around, I found this page of a (modern interpretation) of 19c uniforms of interest. At the bottom of the page are images of a dress coat (with lace) and an undress coat (no lace) flanking a modern copy http://www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes/navy/. Note, all three coats have horizontal pockets, missing on both the preview figures, together with a vent. This wiki page may also be of interest: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Navy_ranks,_rates,_and_uniforms_of_the_18th_and_19th_centuries The portrait of Sir Edward Pellew at the top of the page shows pockets on his coat tails. If you scroll down the page, there is an illustration of 1795-1812 uniforms (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Navy_ranks,_rates,_and_uniforms_of_the_18th_and_19th_centuries#1795–1812), with different ways of wearing epaulettes depending on rank; for example, commanders and captains with less than three years seniority wore only one epaulette, while lieutenants had none. Going back to the figures in this post; based on his cuffs, the standing figure would be either a mid-shipman or a lieutenant, and shouldn't wear epaulettes.

I know the instructions say to use CA, but I used Titebond PVA. This gives a little working time before gripping tight, and allows full length planks.

I've made some progress with the smaller boats. I mentioned earlier that the stem and stern posts on the yawl broke. The stern post survived, and looks reasonable despite further accidents. Unfortunately, when planking, I missed an issue with the stern post bending forward, with its attached transom. Short of ditching the vessel, all I could think to do was extend the keel of the yawl. This will change the look of the hull, and (IMO) mean she'll need a larger rudder to overcome the stabilising influence of that keel (hence filler in later images). Beyond that, the main build has been uneventful. If I were to build the yawl again, I'd add the knees to the benches (term?) before adding the gunwal. Adapting their heights would then be much easier. Another tip - I added the yawl's rowlocks to the gunwals before gluong the gunwals to the boat - this gave some pins that could guide final shape. I am reasonably pleased with the decks, which were painted yellow ochre (Admiralty Paints), then dry brushed with raw umber (Golden Fluid Acrylics). Still work to do on these boats ...

That looks good, you're ahead of me now.