FreekS
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Flip Thanks for the idea! I've found a number of photos of the dock, and maybe once my boat is ready I will actually build the dock as a stand. Probably Parton the dock as it was much bigger than O-1 Thanks for you interest! Freek
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hi all, On photos of the O-1 clear horizontal seams are visible on the hull. I presume this is where steel hull plates are riveted ov each other for strength. On another forum I saw a means I'm making this, I glued thin, 0.8mm think wood strips to the hull, and applied epoxy putty to one side of that, while leaving a step on the other. Then with a sanding machine I sanded the wood and dried putty even to about a 0.5 mm thin step (equivalent with 16mm steel plate in reality. I have a number more to do but it's pretty simple to do. I am very curious what it will look like after painting (and possibly applying rivets) Freek
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I love the stand ! But everyone knows the beer was stored inside the pressure hull: - it might not survive the pressure - it needs to be drunk! Seriously, beautiful boat. No-one knows which shade of green these boats were, probably anything available in wartime. Fantastic project! Freek
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More work done on the superstructure. Did some finishing work on the bow plates using epoxy resin. Needs a few more rounds I'm sure! Also built the rest of the side plates of the superstructure so that the shape of the boat is getting close Also did some work on the hatch, periscope and the little hatch that closes the periscope hole when retracted. Freek
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I have now completed the installation of the bayonet. It is glued in with epoxy glue and (hopefully) made waterproof with epoxy resin. Next is to start to work on the outer plates of the deck section. These are difficult, I am using 0.8 mm triplex wood, which bends mainly in one direction. Especially at the bow it needs to bend in two directions. So I have installed some wood blocks as glue surfaces. The two front hull plates have been glued in (compare with original foto on page 2). The torpedo tube door will not be functional and has been glued in place. All surfaces under the plates have been treated with epoxy for water repellency. Clearly there is some work to be done with plamuur/putty as there are a few unwanted curves in the wood. But that will be fixable I think. Freek
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I remember this, took me two months to create the deck planking! Like you I cut and sanded individual planks to about 1 mm width and glued them on the dark grey painted deck. Then I varnished them. Boat has now had 19 patrols (and an equal number of dives and surfaces! ) and the deck looks a little weathered. Practice in the navy was for the sailors to have to sand these (with sand) regularly until they were truly white. I'm sure that went out with the first war patrols! freek
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I know it's old fashioned, but in some countries there are still model shops you can go to, get advise and pick up a good set. What set depends largely on what country you are in and what frequency is legal. I'd go for 2.4 GHz Freek
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R/C ...WHAT TYPE OF GLUE SHOULD BE USED???
FreekS replied to Cap'n Rat Fink's topic in RC Kits & Scratch building
The glue is not the only thing that's important. The hull, when wood, needs to be sealed as otherwise a scratch in the paint can lead to swelling of the hull. Epoxy or polyurethane resins are commonly used for that. Both will need final coatings to prevent discolouration due to UV light. Freek -
After cutting the sub near the stern, I will now mount a bayonet so that the boat can be opened and a "tech rack" mounted in the stern section which can be pulled out of the bow section. As the bayonet is slightly smaller than the boat, I glued some wooden rings into the stern section. As this section gets narrower to the stern these rings can be firmly mounted. The bayonet fits well in this (but is not glued yet). The bow section gets slightly wider towards the bow, and thus the wooden rings have been fixed with three small wedges. These allow the ring to be precisely centred and allow the bayonet to be test fitted and the two halves of the boat connected. The wedges have now been glued in place and the next step is to fix the wooden ring with epoxy resin. This was definitely a slightly scary operation - but it looks good - though only when the seal is proven to be water- and air proof will it be finished. Freek
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In 1937, she did convoy duty in the straits of Gibraltar . general Franco had during the Spanish civil war issued a blockade of communist harbours and threatened to board ships in the straits of Gibraltar. The Spanish navy was divided into two, Francos Royalist forces and Communist ships which embarking Russion officers. O-16 was lying in Lisbon after her return from the US and was ordered to immediately disembark Professor Veening Meinensz, who had performed gravity measurements on board, and join up with hr ms Hertog Hendrik and perform war patrols in the Straits of Gibraltar with war Torpedo's loaded in the tubes and the boat ready for action. this support action for the pantserdekschip Hertog Hendrik was crucial, as the Royalist fleet comprised three 15 and 20 cm gun cruisers superior to the Hertog Hendrik. after two weeks patrolling she is relieved by Hr ms Java, hr ms O-13 and hr ms O-15 and heads for home. A nice example of deterrent by Dutch submarines. (de Nederlandse Onderzeedients 1906 to 1966) Freek
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It looks really nice, I'm sooooo tempted but I have yet to find time to build your Admiralen class model! Unbelievable detail! Brilliant! Freek
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Yes Piet! And with automatisch reload, after all O-1 carried two reloads for her single 18 inch torpedo tube (and the torpedo's had to be brought on board in three pieces and assembled inside!) Ive considered making a functional tube, but Then I'd never use KXVIII again! Also, considering how full my KXVIII is with electrical 'stuff', I know I'm going to struggle finding space inside O-1. Thanks for the interest - as always, and merry Xmas Freek
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Hi all, Of course first days of the holiday I have to catch a flu! Poor weather here but at least it gave me some time to work. The hull is now nice and smooth and I will add another layer of epoxy once I have enough of the superstructure to waterproof that as well. I made some ribs for the deck section and more or less finalised the sail. Here are some overview pictures - the shape of the boat is taking shape! The front part mounted on the bow is the torpedo tube door which pivoted open (in real life). But there will be so limited room and access in the boat that I decided against making this functional (and I'm no Piet!). Regards, Freek
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Very Nice Piet! Your gun looks much prettier than mine! maybe I can place an order? freek
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I finished planking the hull and after a first layer of epoxy I added two more layers with woven glass fibre to make a strong hull. Now I used epoxy putty to start evening out the irregularities in the hull. First time sanding after 18 hours gave a reasonable smooth hull though with some of the glass fibre weave still visible. So I just applied the second coat. Meanwhile I also started on the superstructure. As the dive tank inside the hull will need a volume equal to displacing all the materials over the waterline, it is important to build the superstructure light. I used 1.5 mm birch triplex for the frames and 0.8 mm for the hull plates above the waterline. This area needs to flood so I need to ensure the air can go out when the boat submerges. See attached an outline of the long and narrow superstructure. and below a detail on the drawing The sail of the original is mounted as a monument in the Dutch navy harbour in Den Helder Freek
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Piet, Surely there is a lot of uncertainty on which 40 mm was placed on which Dutch sub. See below discussion on Dutchsubmarines http://www.dutchsubmarines.com/pictures/pictures_mystery.htm On Dutchfleet,the gun on O19 is listed as 40 mm nr 2 (Vickers). That seems to fit with the pictures posted by Boris. http://www.dutchfleet.net/showthread.php/3867-Dutch-naval-guns But the uncertainty factor is high and if you have better info that would be interesting for many people. Freek
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Boris , Piet I found most of thos photos also when I searched for pics for my K-KVIII. I think Boris is right and the mount in the drawings allows the gun to turn vertical and then sink into its bun. I cannot say if the O19 had the same 40 mm as the K-XVIII. As for the deckgun, two of them are in front of the Navy museum in Den Helder, I believe these guns are from O21 and O24, but are similar or the same as the guns on the older subs. Freek
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Hello all, Hull is closed! Last planks have been shaped and mounted and after a night drying I used the band sander to shape the planks fit with the bow and stern pieces. Lots of sanding comes next - probably first with a little electric sander then with regular sandpaper. Glass"fabric" has been ordered with low viscosity epoxy resin to seal the outside with a protective layer. Will need to read up on how this is done ! After that comes the point when the hull needs to be sawed in two for attaching the bayonet. brrrr. Regards. Freek
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Hallo all, Planking is about 75% done, now I have to think about closing the gap and how to fix the last planks in place without using the small "vices" (klemmetjes). Also in front of the boat the small plane I used to shape the planks and the Bajonet closure which just arrived from Norbert bruggen. Norbert is a legendary model sub builder in Germany and sells all sort of usefull parts. However still lots of planking and sanding to be done!
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Ian, The hull will be 68 cm long, and 11 cm in diameter. The original boat was only 20 meters long, and the model is 1:32. At 125 tons displacement, the original was small, and the model will weight approximately 4 kg and have a dive tank, most likely a plastic bag, of about 500 ml inside the model I will need to fit - a motor with speed controller - batteries and receiver - pump for the dive tank (bag) with its controller - two servo motors with pushrods controlling the planes and rudder - quite a lot of lead to give stability and make up to 4 kg. The boat will be very full! Here's another picture of the original Freek
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Hallo all, Thanks for the kind comments on my rubber motor Torpedo's! Back to planking the hull. I'm shaping each plank with a mini plane, but progress is slow. I learnt I need to ensure the plank is fully pre-bent before mounting on the hull. Six planks done and I think I have the hang of it now - though at cost of removing one after it had too much tension in bow section. Certainly gives me a lot of respect from those of you creating much more complex hull shapes! Freek
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Piet, On my K-XIV class I saw the cable cutters only on pictures after the conversion in 1943 in US, where they received a new cable cut system. however the drawing shows the cutters, and the prewar pictures show a metal strip on which I think the cutters can be installed. could it not be the cable cutters were carried by the sub, but only installed when needed on specific missions? One other point - on the KXVIII the existing models in the Navy Museum show a red underwater hull. Other modelers had painted their KXVIII grey. Being unsure, I wrote to the NIMH (Netherlands institute of Military history) they reported they though the below water ship was dark grey, not red. My model first was red - which was great to keep it in sight underwater, but has now been painted dark grey. I don't profess to know the real colors. Freek
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INTERMEZZO I still owe Piet a video of the K-XVIII shooting a torpedo from the deck tubes. Here's a mini video build log of the work I did to make the torpedoes operational - using rubber motors as the propulsion method. Hope you will enjoy the 5 minute film - the sub shot is right at the end Freek
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Thanks Anja! On my birthday I made the bow and stern from wood left over from my frigate project. Using a band sander I got the pieces nicely in shape and even prepared the muzzle of the single 18 inch torpedo tube that the O-1 had. More time went into checking the frames and correcting small deviations. I started making the planks, from 3 x 8 x 600 mm wood. These were narrowed at both ends and after a few hrs soaking were clamped in place to bend them into the required shape. I made about 5 of 30 planks so have to do a few more! Note how small O-1 is vs K-XVIII ! Freek
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