marktiedens

I made the 2 pulleys, that sit above the mizzen mast channels, out of walnut. I made the sheaves out of a dowel of wood and grooved the outside diameter.

 
Pulley with sheaves pinned in place


 
Fitted on Port Side

 
Fitted on Starboard side

 
Drilled hole on both side, where the rigging from the pulleys will enter the ship side

 
Pulley and hole

 
So, after viewing Michael's (md1400cs) fine log and the discussions about removing the pin rails, (which apparently don't belong), I now have to figure out a way to remove them without damaging the ship or the cannon! Yikes, Will not be fun!

 
Thanks,
Frank
 

Edwin - the red paint is from a line called Citadel, by Games Workshop.  This specific color is called "Mephiston Red" (lots of odd fantasy role playing-inspired paint names in this line).  It's a good paint line - matte acrylic, very finely ground, evenly dispersed pigment, dries quickly, mixes well, etc.  Your local gaming/hobby shop should have it, or you can order online from www.games-workshop.com.
 
Some more photos of the finished beak area...
 

 
The economy class toilets...
 

 
And a less blurry photo of the side panel, with the notches cut out for the Roman emperor sculptures.
 

 

Hey again!
 
I've mounted the bowsprit and finished the ropes holding it.
 

 

 

 
It was lots of work as I had to reshape thin down the L shaped timbers holding the bow. Looking back I think it was good to wait with drilling the rope holes until knowing where to put them. That gave me liberty to arrange the beek head "floor planks" the way I wanted and then arrange the rope holes acccording to them, not the other way around. That said, I would have thinned down the L shaped parts slightly pre assembly to make it easier to get room for the holes, and this is a tip for builders of the kit. This way made me nervous about destroying anything...
 
I never was happy with the paint job on the lower beakhead parts, and this gave me an opportunity to make it better.
 
 
/Matti
 
 
 
Edit: I just realized that I didn't explain that the kit construction is with the ropes running "outside" the lower beakhead construction (wrong). Remember that I broke the beakhead earlier and strengthened it when repairing it. This made my beakhead stronger and that's good when doing this mod to the build.

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks so much for your supportive suggestions, comments, likes and just looking in, all are very much appreciated.
 
Continuing with the braces for the anchors; I focused on the single fish davit beam that was employed to help raise the anchor flutes towards the gunwales.  Only one beam was recovered indicative of the single beam being moved port to starboard as needed.
 
------------------
 
I used a sanding disk to thin out a piece of wood. Then tapered both upper edges, added grooves on its outer tip and inner ends as well.
 
Added the required ropes and blocks.
 
Drilled four holes in the weather deck to simulate the two rope attaching laces.
 
Knotted two pieces of rope together using a Carrick bend.  This knot was a guess (I’m good at that J)
 
Glued the two ropes and also added glue to the knot ends to simulate a natural relaxed looking resting appearance on the deck
 
The last three pics are for my next area, still repairing previous mistakes, and will be giving my Proxxon milling machine its first real user test for adding the grooves  into the knightheads - Hmmmm Let’s see how that goes.
 
---------------------------
 
YES I am sooo irritated at myself for not recessing the gun deck cannon framings. I had thought of it as I was inserting the four bits per opening but the lip seemed too thin AND my skills then were not as good as they are now.. Now its really too late for a retro fix.    Next time….
 
Always my regards,
 
Michael

you must reconsider Denis........your build is much more worthy than you realize!  all those in favor......hit the like button 

Martin,
 
thats right, and ist only the Standing rigging in the Moment, I`m working with pegs and tweezers, guess I know what I`ll be facing when the running rigging Comes on, let alone the sails....
 
here is a Little update on the status
 
Nils
 
 
Build log part 63
 
 
 
 

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

Hi guys:
 
Finally I finished the standing rigging placing the upper stay of the mizen mast.
 
At first I was going to do it according to the BB plans (only one rope) but I change my mind and prefer making it as shown in the 1:10 Vasa model and Clayton´s, with double rope and fixing them to the main mast shroud.
 
It is important to mention that if using this form it is necessary to make additional holes to the pinracks located near the mainmast.  Do it before making the shrouds!!
 

 
Saludos, Karl

Working on the port side, trying to show the anchor in a somewhat stored position.
 
Finished rigging the bow davit to the anchor ring and added support lines to the middle and end of the anchor.

 
View of finished port side


 
Coiled ropes from the bow davits terminal end


 
Coiled line from the starboard removable davit. 

 
Now onto the large pulleys above the mizzen mast  channels!
 
Thanks,
Frank

Finishing up the anchors!
 
So, working on the starboard side, trying to show the anchor being raised.
 
During a test fit of the anchor, I noticed that the assembly would be swinging loosely when finished, so I had to think of a way to protect and secure it without being noticed.
So I drilled and pinned the backside of the stock and drilled a corresponding hole on the side of the ship.

 
Now I pressed and glued the pin and stock into the side of the ship, holding the anchor assembly firm, without being noticeable.

 
Rigged the block and anchor to the bow davit

 
Rigged the other end of the anchor to the removable davit.


 
Finished the large anchor cable

 

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

The beak decking was straightforward.  I used mahogany instead of the kit-supplied wood because I wanted it to match the hull.
 

 
Here's a picture where you can see the side supports for the prow in place.  It's nice and stable now.
 

 

 

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

I understand your frustration - I was at the same point in my previous build. I also removed those pin rails on mine. I am only going to move forward on my current build & not back track - if I happen to get something wrong then so be it . If I wanted it perfect then I would do something like hand carve all the figures .At this scale that would be nearly impossible.
 
/Mark

Hey all! Here are some pictures of the shrouds:
 

 

 

 
Quite enjoyable stage of the build, and changes the look of the model alot, at least in my eyes.
 
The ratlines will be testing my nerves though Im sure...
 
 
/Matti
 
 

Using dark brown rigging line, I wrapped the 2 large eyes for the anchors

 
Painted the anchors and assembled the stocks

 
Rigged the large anchor line and attached to the large eyes.

 
Took the blocks and added the hooks and wrapped with darkened thin metal straps

 
Added wrapped line to only one of the anchors. This is for the starboard side anchor, which I will show being hoisted up with davit. (I will have the port anchor shown in a stored position)

 
Rigged a double block to the starboard davit

 
I will mount the anchors soon and try to have an update early next week
 
Thanks,
Frank
 

I started working on my anchors for the ship.
(Sorry for the quality of some of the pictures. I was never good at photography!!)
 
The first thing I did was remake the anchor stocks. I did not like the ones that came with the kit. I remade them using walnut.

 
Drilled some small holes for the tree nails (Used the old anchor stocks for this illustration)

 
Using my tree nail tool, I cut some square stock of lighter wood and ran it thru the tool to make it round.

 
Glued and press fit into the anchor stock (Used the old anchor stocks for this illustration)

 
Sanded down flush on walnut stocks

 
Added the blackened nails to each side

Build log part 62
 
 
a Little update....
 
 
Nils

Mark,
 
 
Thanks for the info. That, it seems to me, will make it even harder for the smaller rear towers to rise up enough to overlap the lower parts of the upper galleries as we have been discussing. It will be interesting to see how you figure that one out, allowing enough room for the standing stern guards.
 
PS: Fred has also just sent me a post indicating that the quarterdeck pinrails should not be there. “The museum got it wrong”, he said. You can check that out at the Vasa specific site, at my build postings. So, I just removed mine, and it left scars grrrrrrrrrr. He also discusses what should be there instead.
 
PS: No I am not rebuilding my towers.
 
This will be an ongoing problem with this ship as new data are turned up and subsequent changes to our builds are needed.
 
Enough already (:-) I'm just going to move forward from now on. My log is already SO filled with "going backwards” tearing out and making fixes. I'm now done with that. And as you said maybe six members here out of the more than ten thousand would even know the differences, and errors........
 
As Fred had mentioned last year there is some interest for a new kit that may be in its development stages. One that is 100% based on Vasa’s 1/1 current info inclusive of 3D/cad computer renderings. I say current info because the way this ship is "changing" I can just imagine after this kit "is released???" the museum will find more areas where they got it wrong.
 
Just going to have fun moving forward, not sideways, and definitely not backwards anymore. Pulling out those two pinrails that left scars is the last change for me.
 
I will however absolutely highly regard member’s suggestions for how to get this right in regard to nautical accuracy. Nigel, B.E, Ferit as well as some kind other members have been so gracious in offering their guidance as I move along.
 
Big thanks to the nice people, who click, or post comments. I need this project to be fun, not an exercise in frustration J
 
Sorry for the long post, but I needed to vent as well
 
PS: I do very much believe, however, that seeking the most accurate build possible is a wonderful goal that I wholeheartedly support. I'm only writing for myself here, certainly out of frustration. And Corel's is the furthest from what should be Oh well..
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hello Michael
I got an answer from Fred at the museum about the sizes of the towers. They are different sizes - the front one is 2.12 meters in diameter & the rear one is 1.5 so I will stay with the parts that the kit came with . Sorry about the bad news.I still think yours is really nice & would not change it.After all,no one will know but you & me,right?
 
regards,Mark