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jcurtis55

NRG Member
  • Posts

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About jcurtis55

  • Birthday 10/02/1955

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Plainfield Indiana, USA
  • Interests
    Model Rocketry, Model Ships, Geocaching, Cigars

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  1. I'm a newby but why do companies kit fictitious ships. I prefer ships with some history behind them and goodness knows there are plenty of plans out there for interesting ships that have not been kitted. Your Lady Nelson does look great though.
  2. Oar locks, inwales, rub rails and painter added. Skiff is finished. A quick easy build, but when you are a beginner, it is still a nice feeling of accomplishment. I have not glued down the oars, as I may sand them some more.
  3. Exterior painted white and interior blue. Floor boards added and middle seat risers added. Natural wood items sealed with Shellac. I know Shellac and Varnish are different items, so the label on the Terlans bottle is somewhat confusing. I figured either one would work.
  4. Breasthook, rear set risers, stem cap and knees added. Frames trimmed and sanded.
  5. Chafing plank and skeg attached. I also got the oars started. I think half the time to build this kit is spent sanding the oars.
  6. Boat has been mounted to a strong back with pins. You had to bevel the first 4 inches of the strong back which let me make use of my new Jorgensen mini plane. This leaves 3 holes that have to be filled later. Had some trouble getting a clamp on the stem but got it done. I think I'll use rubber bands next time. Side planks are on. I did get the bottom of the starboard planed corrected.
  7. The parts appear to be die cut and there were no clean up like there would be with laser cut parts. The parts were quite easy to separate from the wood sheets, so no wood burrs to clean up either. I started by removing the bottom plank. I marked the center line and the positions of the cleats. The instructions said to use slow CA glue but I used Aileen's Fast Grab tacky glue. The stem and transom knee are both two identical parts you glue together. I glued the knee the transom and the stem to the bottom plank. The I glued the transom to the bottom plank. Here was my first problem. Somehow, I managed to not get the transom flush with the end of the bottom plank. Here's why I used white glue as I was able to use alcohol to undo the joint and correct the fit of the transom. This would be my only time to undo a glue joint. Cleats and frames where added and I gave the glue time to dry.
  8. I finished the Lowell Grand Banks Dory a month ago. I planned to work my way through the Model Shipyard Shipwright series. I got my credit from Model Expo for the Dory build and ordered the Norwegian Pram. However, during the Dory build I couldn't help perusing eBay and I picked up several Midwest Model kits for what I considered really good prices. The Dory had some issues, so before diving into the Norwegian Pram, I decided I would build the Midwest Skiff first as a confidence builder. As you can see from the box photo this was a pre-Model Expo kit but I have no idea if Model Expo made any updates to the rereleased Midwest kits. I will say the instructions are very good for a beginning ship modeler. From reading through the instructions, this appeared to be an easier build than the Lowell Grand Banks Dory.
  9. I'm ready to start painting my Lowell Grand Banks Dory. With rocket fins I first use sanding sealer, followed by primer and then the paint. Should I follow the same process with the Dory?
  10. Picked up a drawplate from Model Expo for $12. I'll try it before spending over $50 at Micro Mark.
  11. Their web site says they no longer have them in stock.
  12. Aren't those made for wire? I read the wire drawplates are not interchangeable with drawplates made for wood.
  13. Thought I would get a drawplate, but since the Byrnes is not available, is there a good alternative?
  14. It's all a bit intimidating right now, but rigging is the most daunting challenge. At least I don't have to deal with that on the Dorry.
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