SJSoane

Hi everyone,
 
I finally managed to finish the upper deck clamps, with a side tour to rearrange my wall of tools for the table saw, mill and lathe (it is like cleaning the closets or filing papers when you can't get going on something else).
 
I decided to color the clamps and quickwork red, and spirketting black, like many of the admiralty models I admire. So here is a nice ribbon of red around the hull until more inner works come in.
 
My long clamps came in very handy. I wish I had made more.
 
On the the quarterdeck and forecastle clamps...
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I finally managed to finish the upper deck clamps, with a side tour to rearrange my wall of tools for the table saw, mill and lathe (it is like cleaning the closets or filing papers when you can't get going on something else).
 
I decided to color the clamps and quickwork red, and spirketting black, like many of the admiralty models I admire. So here is a nice ribbon of red around the hull until more inner works come in.
 
My long clamps came in very handy. I wish I had made more.
 
On the the quarterdeck and forecastle clamps...
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I finally managed to finish the upper deck clamps, with a side tour to rearrange my wall of tools for the table saw, mill and lathe (it is like cleaning the closets or filing papers when you can't get going on something else).
 
I decided to color the clamps and quickwork red, and spirketting black, like many of the admiralty models I admire. So here is a nice ribbon of red around the hull until more inner works come in.
 
My long clamps came in very handy. I wish I had made more.
 
On the the quarterdeck and forecastle clamps...
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I just completed fitting the upper deck clamps, from stem to stern. I was reminded of Remco's quote about treating every piece as if it is a model by itself. The last piece had to hook over the helm port transom, and fair into the forward face of the lower counter planking, while twisting from an acute angle forward, to almost vertical at the counter. Many pleasant hours were spent shaping and fitting these... I can also see that the spirketting right under the wing transom is going to be equally fun, as it curves along that knee while sloping back further up.
 
I had an ah hah moment, which notching the clamp over the helm port transom. To stop the saw cuts at exactly the right depth, I stuck two pieces of wood to either side of the blank with double sided carpet tape. I then clamped this in my vise, and used the wood stops to indicate when to end sawing with the razor saw. I don't know why I did not think of this earlier. It is now in my tool box of techniques.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I finally managed to finish the upper deck clamps, with a side tour to rearrange my wall of tools for the table saw, mill and lathe (it is like cleaning the closets or filing papers when you can't get going on something else).
 
I decided to color the clamps and quickwork red, and spirketting black, like many of the admiralty models I admire. So here is a nice ribbon of red around the hull until more inner works come in.
 
My long clamps came in very handy. I wish I had made more.
 
On the the quarterdeck and forecastle clamps...
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I finally managed to finish the upper deck clamps, with a side tour to rearrange my wall of tools for the table saw, mill and lathe (it is like cleaning the closets or filing papers when you can't get going on something else).
 
I decided to color the clamps and quickwork red, and spirketting black, like many of the admiralty models I admire. So here is a nice ribbon of red around the hull until more inner works come in.
 
My long clamps came in very handy. I wish I had made more.
 
On the the quarterdeck and forecastle clamps...
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I just completed fitting the upper deck clamps, from stem to stern. I was reminded of Remco's quote about treating every piece as if it is a model by itself. The last piece had to hook over the helm port transom, and fair into the forward face of the lower counter planking, while twisting from an acute angle forward, to almost vertical at the counter. Many pleasant hours were spent shaping and fitting these... I can also see that the spirketting right under the wing transom is going to be equally fun, as it curves along that knee while sloping back further up.
 
I had an ah hah moment, which notching the clamp over the helm port transom. To stop the saw cuts at exactly the right depth, I stuck two pieces of wood to either side of the blank with double sided carpet tape. I then clamped this in my vise, and used the wood stops to indicate when to end sawing with the razor saw. I don't know why I did not think of this earlier. It is now in my tool box of techniques.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I finally managed to finish the upper deck clamps, with a side tour to rearrange my wall of tools for the table saw, mill and lathe (it is like cleaning the closets or filing papers when you can't get going on something else).
 
I decided to color the clamps and quickwork red, and spirketting black, like many of the admiralty models I admire. So here is a nice ribbon of red around the hull until more inner works come in.
 
My long clamps came in very handy. I wish I had made more.
 
On the the quarterdeck and forecastle clamps...
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I finally managed to finish the upper deck clamps, with a side tour to rearrange my wall of tools for the table saw, mill and lathe (it is like cleaning the closets or filing papers when you can't get going on something else).
 
I decided to color the clamps and quickwork red, and spirketting black, like many of the admiralty models I admire. So here is a nice ribbon of red around the hull until more inner works come in.
 
My long clamps came in very handy. I wish I had made more.
 
On the the quarterdeck and forecastle clamps...
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I finally managed to finish the upper deck clamps, with a side tour to rearrange my wall of tools for the table saw, mill and lathe (it is like cleaning the closets or filing papers when you can't get going on something else).
 
I decided to color the clamps and quickwork red, and spirketting black, like many of the admiralty models I admire. So here is a nice ribbon of red around the hull until more inner works come in.
 
My long clamps came in very handy. I wish I had made more.
 
On the the quarterdeck and forecastle clamps...
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I finally managed to finish the upper deck clamps, with a side tour to rearrange my wall of tools for the table saw, mill and lathe (it is like cleaning the closets or filing papers when you can't get going on something else).
 
I decided to color the clamps and quickwork red, and spirketting black, like many of the admiralty models I admire. So here is a nice ribbon of red around the hull until more inner works come in.
 
My long clamps came in very handy. I wish I had made more.
 
On the the quarterdeck and forecastle clamps...
 
Mark
 
 

Remco,
 
I had been resisting my wife getting a cat for fear of what will happen in the shop; and now you go and put a permanent cat in your shop. I won't be able to hold out any longer....;-)
 
Mark

Hi everyone,
 
I just completed fitting the upper deck clamps, from stem to stern. I was reminded of Remco's quote about treating every piece as if it is a model by itself. The last piece had to hook over the helm port transom, and fair into the forward face of the lower counter planking, while twisting from an acute angle forward, to almost vertical at the counter. Many pleasant hours were spent shaping and fitting these... I can also see that the spirketting right under the wing transom is going to be equally fun, as it curves along that knee while sloping back further up.
 
I had an ah hah moment, which notching the clamp over the helm port transom. To stop the saw cuts at exactly the right depth, I stuck two pieces of wood to either side of the blank with double sided carpet tape. I then clamped this in my vise, and used the wood stops to indicate when to end sawing with the razor saw. I don't know why I did not think of this earlier. It is now in my tool box of techniques.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Thanks, Michael, druxey, Grant and Mark. Those angled clamps at the upper deck level were definitely one of those projects that seemed straightforward starting into it, only to realize just how complex it really is. These really increase one's appreciation of the original model-makers. It really connects one with the past, to realize that someone made and fitted exactly these same parts 250 years ago.

Thanks, Michael, druxey, Grant and Mark. Those angled clamps at the upper deck level were definitely one of those projects that seemed straightforward starting into it, only to realize just how complex it really is. These really increase one's appreciation of the original model-makers. It really connects one with the past, to realize that someone made and fitted exactly these same parts 250 years ago.

Thanks, Michael, druxey, Grant and Mark. Those angled clamps at the upper deck level were definitely one of those projects that seemed straightforward starting into it, only to realize just how complex it really is. These really increase one's appreciation of the original model-makers. It really connects one with the past, to realize that someone made and fitted exactly these same parts 250 years ago.

Hi everyone,
 
Here are old, not very good photos of early construction, Hahn style. Cutting it off the base and flipping it over after years upside down was a thrill and also very scary.
 
Mark

Hi everyone,
 
I just completed fitting the upper deck clamps, from stem to stern. I was reminded of Remco's quote about treating every piece as if it is a model by itself. The last piece had to hook over the helm port transom, and fair into the forward face of the lower counter planking, while twisting from an acute angle forward, to almost vertical at the counter. Many pleasant hours were spent shaping and fitting these... I can also see that the spirketting right under the wing transom is going to be equally fun, as it curves along that knee while sloping back further up.
 
I had an ah hah moment, which notching the clamp over the helm port transom. To stop the saw cuts at exactly the right depth, I stuck two pieces of wood to either side of the blank with double sided carpet tape. I then clamped this in my vise, and used the wood stops to indicate when to end sawing with the razor saw. I don't know why I did not think of this earlier. It is now in my tool box of techniques.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I just completed fitting the upper deck clamps, from stem to stern. I was reminded of Remco's quote about treating every piece as if it is a model by itself. The last piece had to hook over the helm port transom, and fair into the forward face of the lower counter planking, while twisting from an acute angle forward, to almost vertical at the counter. Many pleasant hours were spent shaping and fitting these... I can also see that the spirketting right under the wing transom is going to be equally fun, as it curves along that knee while sloping back further up.
 
I had an ah hah moment, which notching the clamp over the helm port transom. To stop the saw cuts at exactly the right depth, I stuck two pieces of wood to either side of the blank with double sided carpet tape. I then clamped this in my vise, and used the wood stops to indicate when to end sawing with the razor saw. I don't know why I did not think of this earlier. It is now in my tool box of techniques.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Thanks everyone. 
 
Here are more details of the scarph jig. The first drawing, number 1, shows the basic geometry of the scarph. The two long cuts, labeled "L", are equal; and all of the depth cuts are the same and are marked "t".
 
Drawing 2 shows the scarph turned so  the angle side will be flat to the mill.
 
Drawing 3 shows the jig, with a spacer arm on a piece of plywood the thickness of "t"; and a notch piece with the same thickness "t" sticking up above the top of the maple block. The piece to be cut is pushed against the notch, and up against the spacer arm. This ensures that all pieces will be in the same location to ensure the same cuts. Also notice that the end of the blank needs to be trimmed to the angle of the scarph before inserting into the jig. I use a sanding disc for this.
 
Drawing 4 shows a mill cutter making the first cut. It is "t" distance above the top of the maple block. In reality, I trim the top of the blank close to this line before putting it in the jig, to save multiple cuts with the mill down to this final cut.
 
Drawing 5 shows the mill cutter making the second cut. Now it is down the distance "t" to the top of the maple block. And it is measured in with the dials of the mill the exact distance "L" from the edge of the notch piece. In my case, the diameter of the cutter was not the full size of "L", and so I needed to move it over a slight distance to complete the second length "L". Using the dials and double checking before cutting ensures that I don't cut into my jig!
 
The photos show the jig with, and without, the clamp. The clamp is simply a T-bolt run through the maple block (you can see the T in the photo from behind), using those cute cam clamps from Rocklers. From behind, you can also see that the plywood spacer on top is glued to a another piece of ply held to the maple block with a nylon screw. This allows me to adjust the spacer arm back and forth to accommodate different lengths of scarphs, or 2 times "L".
 
The whole thing is held in the Sherline milling vise.
 
I hope this helps clarify. If not, let me know and I will draw more diagrams!
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I just completed fitting the upper deck clamps, from stem to stern. I was reminded of Remco's quote about treating every piece as if it is a model by itself. The last piece had to hook over the helm port transom, and fair into the forward face of the lower counter planking, while twisting from an acute angle forward, to almost vertical at the counter. Many pleasant hours were spent shaping and fitting these... I can also see that the spirketting right under the wing transom is going to be equally fun, as it curves along that knee while sloping back further up.
 
I had an ah hah moment, which notching the clamp over the helm port transom. To stop the saw cuts at exactly the right depth, I stuck two pieces of wood to either side of the blank with double sided carpet tape. I then clamped this in my vise, and used the wood stops to indicate when to end sawing with the razor saw. I don't know why I did not think of this earlier. It is now in my tool box of techniques.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I just completed fitting the upper deck clamps, from stem to stern. I was reminded of Remco's quote about treating every piece as if it is a model by itself. The last piece had to hook over the helm port transom, and fair into the forward face of the lower counter planking, while twisting from an acute angle forward, to almost vertical at the counter. Many pleasant hours were spent shaping and fitting these... I can also see that the spirketting right under the wing transom is going to be equally fun, as it curves along that knee while sloping back further up.
 
I had an ah hah moment, which notching the clamp over the helm port transom. To stop the saw cuts at exactly the right depth, I stuck two pieces of wood to either side of the blank with double sided carpet tape. I then clamped this in my vise, and used the wood stops to indicate when to end sawing with the razor saw. I don't know why I did not think of this earlier. It is now in my tool box of techniques.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Thanks everyone. 
 
Here are more details of the scarph jig. The first drawing, number 1, shows the basic geometry of the scarph. The two long cuts, labeled "L", are equal; and all of the depth cuts are the same and are marked "t".
 
Drawing 2 shows the scarph turned so  the angle side will be flat to the mill.
 
Drawing 3 shows the jig, with a spacer arm on a piece of plywood the thickness of "t"; and a notch piece with the same thickness "t" sticking up above the top of the maple block. The piece to be cut is pushed against the notch, and up against the spacer arm. This ensures that all pieces will be in the same location to ensure the same cuts. Also notice that the end of the blank needs to be trimmed to the angle of the scarph before inserting into the jig. I use a sanding disc for this.
 
Drawing 4 shows a mill cutter making the first cut. It is "t" distance above the top of the maple block. In reality, I trim the top of the blank close to this line before putting it in the jig, to save multiple cuts with the mill down to this final cut.
 
Drawing 5 shows the mill cutter making the second cut. Now it is down the distance "t" to the top of the maple block. And it is measured in with the dials of the mill the exact distance "L" from the edge of the notch piece. In my case, the diameter of the cutter was not the full size of "L", and so I needed to move it over a slight distance to complete the second length "L". Using the dials and double checking before cutting ensures that I don't cut into my jig!
 
The photos show the jig with, and without, the clamp. The clamp is simply a T-bolt run through the maple block (you can see the T in the photo from behind), using those cute cam clamps from Rocklers. From behind, you can also see that the plywood spacer on top is glued to a another piece of ply held to the maple block with a nylon screw. This allows me to adjust the spacer arm back and forth to accommodate different lengths of scarphs, or 2 times "L".
 
The whole thing is held in the Sherline milling vise.
 
I hope this helps clarify. If not, let me know and I will draw more diagrams!
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I just completed fitting the upper deck clamps, from stem to stern. I was reminded of Remco's quote about treating every piece as if it is a model by itself. The last piece had to hook over the helm port transom, and fair into the forward face of the lower counter planking, while twisting from an acute angle forward, to almost vertical at the counter. Many pleasant hours were spent shaping and fitting these... I can also see that the spirketting right under the wing transom is going to be equally fun, as it curves along that knee while sloping back further up.
 
I had an ah hah moment, which notching the clamp over the helm port transom. To stop the saw cuts at exactly the right depth, I stuck two pieces of wood to either side of the blank with double sided carpet tape. I then clamped this in my vise, and used the wood stops to indicate when to end sawing with the razor saw. I don't know why I did not think of this earlier. It is now in my tool box of techniques.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I just completed fitting the upper deck clamps, from stem to stern. I was reminded of Remco's quote about treating every piece as if it is a model by itself. The last piece had to hook over the helm port transom, and fair into the forward face of the lower counter planking, while twisting from an acute angle forward, to almost vertical at the counter. Many pleasant hours were spent shaping and fitting these... I can also see that the spirketting right under the wing transom is going to be equally fun, as it curves along that knee while sloping back further up.
 
I had an ah hah moment, which notching the clamp over the helm port transom. To stop the saw cuts at exactly the right depth, I stuck two pieces of wood to either side of the blank with double sided carpet tape. I then clamped this in my vise, and used the wood stops to indicate when to end sawing with the razor saw. I don't know why I did not think of this earlier. It is now in my tool box of techniques.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark