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serpe
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hull finishing
serpe replied to serpe's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I was wondering if British ships of this era were built with English oak or did they import and what colour would it have been. My other thought was to plank the hull with unfinished oak and wooden nails. I can purchase plenty of round wooden toothpicks from the dollar store. Drive one in snip it off and use the other end. I know that most ship kits use walnut etc for the second planking which isn't correct but makes them look pretty, but for this build my vision is a combination of planking at the slipway before any final finish and a more completed finish for deck items, trim and masts etc. Kind of a combination of both. -
I don't know if this is the correct space for my question. I'm sure the moderator will correct me. I am moving on to my new build of the HMB beagle. I am thinking of using the brass nails that come with kit to nail the final planking. I would pre drill to avoid splitting on the ends. They would be driven in, cut, tapped flush and sanded smooth. I would use some tung oil to even out the colour variations of the wood. My vision is to highlight the hull a bit while doing some painting and varnishing of deck fixtures etc a minimalist build. The rest of the ship such as masts and rigging etc would be as you would expect. I would like some feed back as to what you think of my plan.
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Combining enamel and polyurethane finishes
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Couple of modeling related painting questions
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When I use masking tape I lay it out on a glass plate and trim it with an exacto knife and ruler. That way I get a clean edge. Once layed out in the place you want lightly run your finger over the tape. Not too much as to move it. Next use a putty knife to burnish it down. Once again not too much pressure. Paint away from the tape so you reduce the amount bleed under. If your air brushing blast away from the tape edge to reduce the same. I use Frog or 3M. The thinnest tape you can get your hands on will work the best. Just be aware if you use too much paint when you remove the tape you will get a raised paint line when you remove the tape. Light coats work the best.
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I have used Humbrol for many years. They are still my favourite oil based paints. However I have found that anything I have painted white has yellowed over the years due to the oils used in the paint. Those that I painted with Testors hasn't. Too bad they are still not around. Be aware that UV exposure will alter any coatings regardless of the product. Direct sunlight will accelerate the process. The only solution is bare wood.
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bridgman reacted to a post in a topic:
Using styrene for making structures on modern ships
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Using styrene for making structures on modern ships
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
where to buy brass (or other metal) pedestals and what kind to buy
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I have a set of Lee Valley square punches. Stock number 50K5903. They work very well for working with styrene and thin stock. You get 6 ranging from 3/16" to 1/2". I highly recommend them. Oh and by the way I bought a set that was dirt cheap from Amazon first thinking it would be great deal. Wrong, very poor quality. Go figure for $14.00 I had high expectations. They do make great paper weights though.
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Go to NatureCoast hobbies. Under brass plated display sets look at these. Bronze dolphins 5678, Dolphin mounting set MA7100 and Pegasus mounting set MA 7101. Very nice. Will give that special touch to any ship. No kit bashing involved.
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Vallejo plastic putty for wood models
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The hull of the lobster smack is painted. So here is my advice. But I agree with Dr Pr. Plank tight and fill with wood dust and wood glue. If you use a filler like Lepage's wood filler be aware it dries very hard. So you risk sanding blowout on both sides of the repair. Picture a high side where the filler is then a low spot on the soft wood on either side. Wood glue doesn't tend to shrink after drying. I use a file to get a good profile then prime. Let dry, examine, sand again if necessary. Prime out the repairs then paint.
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druxey reacted to a post in a topic:
Luban Tools
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I also agree that Lee Valley makes very good planes. Veritas is top quality, made in Canada. If you're an American or European you benefit from the dollar imbalance and can purchase these items at a very good price point. Plus Lee valley stands behind there stuff. You don't have to go through the Amazon 30 day warranty that's offered then it's yours, too bad if you have issues. Been down that road.
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thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
Photo etch suppliers
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Replacement thinners for Model Master acrylics
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I use AK Interactive Acrylic Thinner AK 11500 or Tamiya X-20A thinners for this. Start with just a few drops of thinner and try brushing on a test surface that is like the one you're going to do the paint work on. Add more drops to thin it to the consistency that makes you happy with the results. I have a battery operated paint stirrer I ordered from Micro Mark Tools. It does a superb job of mixing. far better than hand mixing. Just so you know, both these thinners are a mix of isopropyl and water. What ratio they won't disclose. I just buy and use.
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What type of photo etch items are you after? I have ordered from a few companies to get what I want.
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Here's my two cents worth. Before I started building wooden ships I built plastic ships and armor. Weathering is important depending on what you want your model to look like. I always went for the slightly weathered look, not the just from the factory look. When I built my Billings St. Roch and my HMCS Snowberry I did a light wash on the decks and super structure etc to show usage. On my current build of the HMB Endeavour I will weather the leading edges of some items and tone down the gloss to a combination of flat and semi gloss to show some weathering but not to make the ship look like a tramp steamer.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Final planking.
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Final planking.
serpe replied to serpe's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Sorry to bother you guys. When I start planking from garboard up, should I clad the keel in the final wood or plank up and cope the finishing wood for the keel last? -
Thanks everyone this helps a lot.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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Thanks all for your advice. Into the breach I go.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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A long time ago I built the Dikar Bluenose. I had no previous knowledge of wooden ships just a background in plastic since the early sixties. Without any inter web or books it worked well. I have built the Billings St. Roch and the Oseberg. The rigging plan for my HMB Endeavour is daunting. I'm stuck. Could you explain how a paper template would work or are there tutorials on this? Everything else is ready to go.
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