serpe
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Posts
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druxey reacted to a post in a topic:
Luban Tools
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I also agree that Lee Valley makes very good planes. Veritas is top quality, made in Canada. If you're an American or European you benefit from the dollar imbalance and can purchase these items at a very good price point. Plus Lee valley stands behind there stuff. You don't have to go through the Amazon 30 day warranty that's offered then it's yours, too bad if you have issues. Been down that road.
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thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
Photo etch suppliers
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Replacement thinners for Model Master acrylics
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
To weather or not to weather...?
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Photo etch suppliers
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PqLear reacted to a post in a topic:
To weather or not to weather...?
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JohnB40 reacted to a post in a topic:
Replacement thinners for Model Master acrylics
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robert952 reacted to a post in a topic:
To weather or not to weather...?
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I use AK Interactive Acrylic Thinner AK 11500 or Tamiya X-20A thinners for this. Start with just a few drops of thinner and try brushing on a test surface that is like the one you're going to do the paint work on. Add more drops to thin it to the consistency that makes you happy with the results. I have a battery operated paint stirrer I ordered from Micro Mark Tools. It does a superb job of mixing. far better than hand mixing. Just so you know, both these thinners are a mix of isopropyl and water. What ratio they won't disclose. I just buy and use.
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What type of photo etch items are you after? I have ordered from a few companies to get what I want.
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
To weather or not to weather...?
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Here's my two cents worth. Before I started building wooden ships I built plastic ships and armor. Weathering is important depending on what you want your model to look like. I always went for the slightly weathered look, not the just from the factory look. When I built my Billings St. Roch and my HMCS Snowberry I did a light wash on the decks and super structure etc to show usage. On my current build of the HMB Endeavour I will weather the leading edges of some items and tone down the gloss to a combination of flat and semi gloss to show some weathering but not to make the ship look like a tramp steamer.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Final planking.
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Final planking.
serpe replied to serpe's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Sorry to bother you guys. When I start planking from garboard up, should I clad the keel in the final wood or plank up and cope the finishing wood for the keel last? -
Thanks everyone this helps a lot.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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Thanks all for your advice. Into the breach I go.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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A long time ago I built the Dikar Bluenose. I had no previous knowledge of wooden ships just a background in plastic since the early sixties. Without any inter web or books it worked well. I have built the Billings St. Roch and the Oseberg. The rigging plan for my HMB Endeavour is daunting. I'm stuck. Could you explain how a paper template would work or are there tutorials on this? Everything else is ready to go.
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serpe reacted to a post in a topic:
Ratline templates.
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Artisan Latina 27311 Ratline Template and the Model Expo MDEM 57202 Ratliner Shroud are two templates I"m looking at. Does anyone think these would be a good choice or not.
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Hi! I have a two part question. I am on the final planking of my HMB Endeavour. I have planked it past the thick stuff down towards the curve of the lower hull. Now I have to plank to the keel. I have several photos on planking and the way Corel suggests on their plans and others including the way it was planked for the replica. I need some advice as to how to proceed. Second I would like to send you some pictures to show where I am at this point. I have an iPhone 15 and a digital camera. What are your recommendations?
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If you are building a ship that just came off the slipway, pristine paint would be appropriate. But as a ship would be at sea it would have chalked out fairly rapidly. For reference see how WWII ships paint faded out very fast. So in my opinion you could lighten up the colour and make it more of a satin to a flat finish depending on how long you think your build would be a working ship. As said above, it's variable.
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I am in the paint stage for my Endeavour ship. Can anyone advise me as to the colour blue the Admiralty used in this era?
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Staining of hulls.
serpe replied to serpe's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I want to even out the colour of the planking to give it a more uniform appearance. I don't want to go dark. -
I would like some input as to what I'm thinking about the finish of the lower hull on my HMB Endeavour. I use a mineral oil from IKEA to treat my teak table and chairs and was wondering if that would be appropriate to use on the lower hull, or maybe a linseed oil finish, then sprayed with a flat coat. I realize that this would alter the colour of the walnut planking making it darker. Further to this would an air brushed flat coat on most of the model be a wise decision?
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scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
serpe replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I purchased a pair of Stella Scissors 2.0 from Rising Fish. They are made for fly fishermen. They work very well for cutting rigging in close quarters.
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