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Jolly Jo

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  1. Thanks for the advice, Phil! I don't even want to dust off the model and planning on making an display case for it 🙂
  2. Finished the fore hatch today. I didn't want to just glue the piece to the deck, so, to add more realism, I butchered an opening into the deck, drilled away a good portion of the "false keel" and bulwark, painted these parts black, stained the edges and glued on the coamings. These were the first part of deck furniture to actually get glued on as their position, centered between the deck beams, leaves no room for moving them around anyway. Oops, forgot to the mark the nails... As the gratings fit tightly they are not glued fast and the hatch is an actual hatch. Will be helpful when adding the funnel and I like pieces which are functional, even if they don't have to be on a model.
  3. Hello Everyone, I was working on the deck furniture but without much to show. I had an idea how to do the venting piece on the binnacle but decided get to that at a later stage of the build. Instead I went on with the fore hatch. The grating I preferred to scratch build rather than using the kit supplied piece. After some trial and error I made one out of walnut. It was nice and a proof of concept but ledgers and battens were obviously out of scale. Furthermore the milling setup was less than ideal. In consequence I bought a real mill that was a quite game changer. I went for smaller 1 mm stripes for ledgers an battens and oak instead of walnut. For the coamings I stayed with walnut. My scratch-hatch versus the kit supplied grating on the right For rounding the edges of the coamings I uses a sanding bit 0.5 mm above the table so the bottom edges stayed square.
  4. Nicely done, Mark. So much better than the plywood piece (plywood, why on earth...?)!
  5. Impressive progress, Steve, I love it! Listing your sources will be very helpful for my build in the future, thanks for that.
  6. Your build quality and speed is amazing and your fleet is quite impressive. Well done!
  7. Thank you very much, Steve! I haven't even thought about the lead in terms of long lasting effects (besides taken care not to breath in any material while drilling). I first thought of a funnel on top but in Marquardt's "The Global Schooner" there's this spherical cap instead. I think I'll stick to it in terms of shape but throw out the lead and also go for something smaller.
  8. Next piece to tackle was the binnacle. The kit supplied a solid piece of wood (looks like oak) to glue stripes to as to simulate doors etc. I wanted it to be walnut like the rest of the deck furniture and to add a "real" window so I preferred to scratch build. (oops, there was a dated coin in my wallet...) The "glass" is cut from the clear plastic of the model's cover box, the drawers and doors are simulated by carving the outlines and tracing the grooves with a 0.3mm pencil. Before adding the lid I painted the rear wall white as I thought would have made sense to augment the light from the lanterns and I didn't cut a window into the back for stealth as the ship is a smuggler. The venting hood is made from a pellet head which I drilled 0,5 mm holes into. It is not fixed yet as I'm not sure about the size. What do you guys think?
  9. Your pintles and gudgeons turned out really nicely, well done!
  10. As @SaltyScot pointed out to me it was time to drill the hole for the bowsprit before the deck furniture will make it hard to do so. As it totally makes sense I did. Thanks, buddy!
  11. Next on the menue were the fife rails. The measurements in the plan didn't add up and I didn't like the way they were supposed to be built either (the kit is an old mamoli one, not one after mamoli was bought by Daniel Dusek, so maybe the math is right now and/or the shape different). Furthermore the holes for the belaying pins should have been 1mm but the pins were 1.12mm at the tip and 1.75mm at the top of the shaft. Hence I turned my drill 90°, carefully chucked the handles into it and filed a couple of them down to 1.2mm. The pin holes were drilled accordingly. After test fitting I thought the pins are to short. They are 6mm so I will order some 8mm ones. As I want to add topsails I went for 4 holes in the side rails instead of 3 as the plan suggests. I cannot say I have any idea or plans for rigging or belaying yet since I never built a ship before but it doesn't hurt to have a spare hole I think...
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