mobbsie

Yeah Tony, I'm very pleased at how she's turning out. It's almost like being on board sometimes. Only thing is that I'm sure glad I didn't have to work on her. I understand the ports of call would make whalers anchor offshore about a mile from port because of the smell. Rather hard life I believe.

This past week, Our Hero hath continued to work on the various detail items to be included.
And here, he hath madeth a list:

 
Indeed, just this very day he didst PhotoShop a tick unto the top o' the list upon his return from the faraway land of Nippon where he didst journey to learn the ancient secrets of sword forging.
 
“I shalt not repeateth myself here,” CaptainSteve was heard to mutter. “For I hath detailed in the Kit-Basher’s forum me method fer making these."
So, please, clicketh here to check it out.
 
Now, as we know, Mr Bligh was not the most personable of people. Indeed, ‘tis known that even amongst the loyalists in the Launch with him, only a handful of men could be relied upon. Thusly, Our Hero hast reasoned that Bligh would’ve been certain to keep all the weapons onboard within easy reach.
 
“Hence I shalt most probably be placing the four cutlasses (and two native spears) that hath been documented up Bligh’s end of the Launch,” CaptainSteve didst explain.
 
Re-visiting the tool-chest, for now, three of the cutlasses have been lazily placed inside.
 
“Thee final one couldst well be chopped into the edge of one of the rear benches,” our Hero didst suggest. “Mayhaps next to where ol’ Bligh hisself be sitting.”

Hi Denis,
 
The jig is in the plans mate, the materials are very much down to the individual builder. Fortunately for me it wasn't that difficult to make.
 
With regard to the power tools, I'm finding out their limitations, tends to make life a little interesting.
 
Be good
 
mobbsie

Well done Mark, looks like you've cracked it this time, looking real good mate.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Denis, It's a while since I looked in and jeez your making some good progress.
 
Is your building pre thought or is it just tongue in cheek build as you go, whatever you use it's working mate.
 
Not to myself " must look in more often".
 
Be Good my Friend
 
mobbsie

As I've mentioned a few times I'm still working on my drawings.  I haven't shared much of them since they still aren't done, and I'm still a little unsure of my accuracy.  I let USS Frolich Frolick (aka Steve) check out my framing plan and he gave the thumbs up, so that was a confidence builder.  I will say the gun ports fit Baker's dwg exactly, and I spent a lot of time on that so I was relieved when Steve gave the OK.
 
So, here's a bit of that dwg.  I don't show the entire plan because it's still not finished.  Right now I'm about to tackle the cant frames, both front and rear, and am finishing the frame dwgs for the individual full frames.  I'm now building frames and was waiting on adding the 3rd and 4th futtocks until I settled on stepped - or not stepped.  Now I can move forward on that! 
 
After a conversation with Steve I decided to move ahead with stepping the frames on the 3rd and 4th futtocks.  I hope this is accurate, but it should give me the look I'm after. Also, I've settled on my naming convention of the floors and futtocks.  It may not he historically accurate, but only I'll ever know it so it's not worth fretting over.  I'm referring to frame parts as odd/even and front/back.  As long as I keep that straight I'm good.
 
A few items are still undecided.  
1.  Should the gun port sills and lintels follow the shear?  At this point my answer is yes.  I can't see notching the planking to fit the sills and lintels if I run the sills parallel to the keel.
2.  Will the sills be mortised or bird mouthed?  Don't think so.  I *think* birdmouths were and English method, and frankly I hate the thought of cutting them.     I don't think I will mortise them at all.
3.  Pins, treenail, bolts etc.  Ugh....  I can't decide.  I honestly think treenails, for me, are an extra item I don't need.  In real life they would be virtually invisible, and I'm not sure I like the look.  Just my personal preference - you folks that add treenails have my admiration and respect!!  As far as bolts and pins, I want to add them where strength is needed.  Frames to gun port sills for example.  BUT, if I add them in one place I'll have to add them everywhere, and that's a can I may not want to open.  Ed Tosti for example has thousands of pins in his Young America.  No way I can, or would attempt to do that.
 
There's more questions but those will do for now...
 
A couple folks have asked if I would be willing to share my dwgs, and the answer is yes.  But, I need to finish them.  I hate the thought of giving out unfinished or inaccurate work, so bear with me.
 
I've been looking at books again, I was going to invest in the TFFM series after following several build logs of those ships - just to drool over the masters at work - BUT - I think I'm gonna get Ed T's Naiad book.  I've browsed that log and his  Young America so many times it's time to finally buy the book!
 
Thanks for looking in!
 
Pic:

Hey there Mobbsie.......knew I'd find you sooner or later!  I see your making fine use of all the new power tools     did you make the jig from plans?

Mobbsie,
 
I'll be seeing what you are doing and it seems that you have to do a lot of cutting and sanding.......
It holds you from the street !
 
Sjors

Looking great Mobbsie!  
 
I am trying hard to finish the Oseberg.  I cannot seem to concentrate on it though.  My mind drifts to the Granado and I have to drag myself back.  
 
Talk to you soon.

Looking good Mobbsie, 
 
Let me know how you go with the drum sander - my offer stands
 
I'm going to have another crack at frame D tonight - I'll post pics on completion.

puts a case of belgian beer next to the popcorn machine and sits down to watch the show

so,  with the upper and lower badge profiles in place,  it now looks like this
 

 
...and a view from the inside.   it will be how the windows come out,  is whether or not the interior will need to be fleshed out.
 

 
as I mentioned earlier,  the port side needed to be shimmed,  due to the bulwark splay.   the starboard side wasn't that bad.  I had stripped out some planking earlier for the life boats {that I need to get back to} for the trawler Syborn build.  it came in handy here.
 

 
then the covering and framing the top of the window.
 

 
with the profiles cemented in place,  it now looks like this
 

 
now comes the big question.........what is to come with the transom wall?   the window is framed in.
 

I like the badge idea.......two side windows with two fascia windows in the center.  framing out the walls is not a huge deal either.  I have a lot of the cut offs from the flat stock,  I keep them in a plastic bag.....I'll be able to use some of it up.   I also plan on doing shingles for the outside,  and that will use up even more.
 
I made a discovery as well.......the starboard wall is a bit off.  I measured every which way,  when I saw it,  and it boils down to the conclusion that the stern has twisted.  the hull has been around for so long without sealer.........I'm sure the temp and humidity had caused this.   anyway I look at it,  it would be a major job to fix it.  if I fix it by adjusting the wall,  it will show there...the wall mass will be uneven.  if I remove the structure and adjust the bulwark,  it will not only throw the transom wall off,  but the hull rails as well.  the only resolve I can see,  will be in how I do the roof.   I have no choice......it will have to be a pitched roof.
 
well.....I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.......I'm not going back.  the admiral told me not to.  so I started by tracing out the profile for the badges.
 

 

 
then I made the other three
 

 
the studs were installed...also to center the doorway for the front wall....I'm thinking double doors.
 

 
to make the outer wall flush to the bulwark,  I'm shimming the port side wall.  in looking at the front wall,  it can be seen that the wall problem doesn't show here at all.   it's because the problem lies with the starboard transom post
 

 
since the bulwark height is enough,  the fire stop can serve as the bottom window frame.  the top will need to be framed in though
 

 
the windshield panel was made and cemented in place
 

 
more of the outer covering was added to the starboard side.......it also show the upper framing
 

 
now to finish the outer covering and cement the profiles in place.

Thank you all for the kind words. For those interested in the soldering board, I purchased it here they also have the pins I use and some hold down clamps I didn't get but made them myself.
 
Beware that the board quickly heats at the bottom so you should place extra heat protection underneath it (yes I found out the hard way and now I have a big burn mark on my bench  )
 
Remco

Battle of the Stern - Opening Salvos
 
Reread the plans at least 10 times and compared them to the salvaged stern section from V 1.0...  realized I can do a lot better and also figured out where the errors crept in.  Then reviewed Hahn's article from the NRJ on her.  The pictures were unclear and perhaps I missed something first time through.  So... scanned the article and adjusted the pics... yep.  whiffed it.  Scan of a a scan of a printed magazine with retouched photos...  <hangs head since he knows better>
 
So, I started with some deconstruction by removing the stern post.  That done, took some basswood and worked on the filler piece.  The pics seem to show one curve (which I used for V 1.0) and plans show a different curve.  Originally, I figured Hahn found something and did the filler differently then the drawing and I followed that.  Wrong!!!!  It was the pic. I followed the drawing this time.  Much happier.
 
Also, worked on the first transom frame.  A lot happier even though it took the second try to get it right.  
 
These are "rough faired" for now.  I'll go back and finish shaping when the second transom is installed.
 

Thanks Mike and Mobbsie.
 
Mike: The blue treatment on the rails is right off the cover of the AOTS book. Looked good there so I used that for guidance rather than Caldercraft's instructions. 

Hi Guys,
 
Welcome aboard Wes, glad you could make it mate.
 
Just a short update, nothing much to show at the moment.
 
I have completed the proper keel and it fits nicely into the framing jig, the practice piece and the proper one to show that there has been no
 
Following a discussion with Grant this morning it was decided that we would start on the frames, I decided that I was going to make-up the 0 frame, this is the 5th frame in and is the first double to have the cut outs for the sweep ports and filling lintels. I haven't  made one of these yet.
 
First up was to copy the template onto a A4 sticky label, cut out the templates and stick onto a prepared sheet 1/4 in Pear. Using my trusty Proxxon Scroll Saw ( which only cuts crooked lines ) I then cut out the parts of the frame, the wedges which are really small have a bit extra left for easy handling.
 
Next up was to sand down the frame parts, so using my trusty Proxxon Disc Sander ( you know the one, it's got my DNA on it ) I sanded down the outside curve, why just the outside I hear you ask, well I need to get a larger diameter drum sander. Its too easy to wear down a small area with the sander I have and that doesn't make for a pretty frame, so it's a trip down to the DIY shop to try a get hold of one.
 
I do have a few pics but please don't get excited, this is really work in progress.
 
The old and the new
 
 
 
 

 
Not much as I say but there will be more to follow, just not tonight. Please ignore the attached thumbnail gents.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Joe,
 
I must apologise for any confusion, I am building the cross section, the heading needs to be changed to reflect that.
 
The plans came from model ship builders, here is a link http://modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?135
 
They really are a good set of drawings.
 
With regard to the frames, they are cut out from the timber billets, I will post a couple of pics to show you.
 
 
 

 
Best way to go is to copy the original page onto sticky A4 labels, these are then cut and placed onto the wood, a tip gleamed from Grant is to put painters tape on the wood first.
 
Cut out the frame sections and sand down to just above the lines, position the sections onto the main label, clean up the joints until a snug fit is obtained, when you are happy with the fit glue together using PVA white glue, when dry clean off excess glue and sand down to the lines.
 
Hope that makes sense Joe.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

First off let me say Hello to all the Lords of the Dark Side, your tolerance will be gratefully accepted.
 
I would like to give plaudits to Jeff Hayes of Hobbymills for superb quality materials, the timber really is first class, also to Jeff Staudt for a fine set of drawings.
 
A special thanks to Grant for all his hard work in working out the quantity of timber required and the different types, I just had to make some minor adjustments to the order. Below is a taster of the timber to be used.
 
 
 
As you are probably aware this is a group project build with Grant, Jack and myself, ( at the moment ), this the first scratch build for all of us apart from prefabricating kits parts that were not happy with and I think we've all done that.   
 
It would be great if others wanted to join in. We will be working in unison and posting in our own logs and this is the start of my log.
 
I started by practicing with my tools and would you believe it this framing jig appeared, as this was a practice piece and it didn't count towards the build but on investigation I found I hadn't got any more material I could use and so had to keep it.    
 
 
 
Following on from the jig, I started practicing on the frames themselves and I found out a few things I need to work on, 1st, Don't cut so close to the lines, give your self a bit of room. 2nd, Easy on the sanders, don't put so much pressure when sanding down and 3rd, It doesn't take much to remove the skin from the knuckles with a disc sander, this had been switched of and was slowing down, I helped it stop and found out how good my bandaids are.
 
I made a double frame but will not be using it, I can and will do better.
 
 
 
 
 
Following on from that I attempted the Keel, this is made up from 4 pieces, Ebony for the Keel, followed by Swiss Pear for the False Keel Upper and Lower and the Hog. This Keel looks difficult but in reality is quite simple, you just need to be accurate, a rabbet is cut into it when all the pieces are assembled. I was going to use my router for this but there is a deviation 2/3rds along it's length so this had to be cut by hand, I used my trusty Stanley knife carefully, (we have a history) and finished with a triangle file. Below is the completed practice keel
 
 
 
So, that's the start of my new log, if anyone has any questions please don't be afraid to ask Grant !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 

Were talking 3 slows here Augie, there's my slow, there what you term as normal folks slow and then there's Grants slow.
 
I reckon this will just about see Grant to his retirement mate, lets see, Grants 54 this month, that gives him 11 years.
 
Sounds about right to me.   :D    
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

Hi Grant,
 
According to George Biddlecombe's book " THE ART OF RIGGING" a Spar is a small tree, a Yard is " Long cylindrical pieces of Fir Timber, hung to the masts of ships to expand the the sails to the wind.
 
I can only guise that during times when repairs were being made away from any port and small tree's were used as replacement yards. The working party may have been told to go ashore and get some Spar's. This may be a total figment of my imagination and is probably wrong but you never know, seems logical to my mind. :mellow:  :mellow:
 
mobbsie

Hi Grant,
 
Nice explanation and execution mate.
 
All looks good to me mate, I would say you are good to go ahead and glue up.
 
Your ahead of me at the moment mate and I'm supposed to be the quick builder, somewhere along the line things have changed, ( interesting ).
 
Just one question, What size holes are you going to drill for your treenails ?.  I was thinking of a 3/64 or 4/64.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Grant,
 
Nice explanation and execution mate.
 
All looks good to me mate, I would say you are good to go ahead and glue up.
 
Your ahead of me at the moment mate and I'm supposed to be the quick builder, somewhere along the line things have changed, ( interesting ).
 
Just one question, What size holes are you going to drill for your treenails ?.  I was thinking of a 3/64 or 4/64.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

I'll send you my bank details Augie, though I'm still woefully short on remuneration for that tea party you guys had. I wouldn't have minded but us Brits weren't even invited.   
 
I like your paintwork mate, a new trademark methinks.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Frank,
 
Thanks for the word on ageing my friend, glad I didn't age like that mate, the only part I would enjoy is the rubbing down but we mustn't go there must we.
 
Your quite the leading authority on ageing a ships hull mate and deserve the accolades you get.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie