mobbsie

Looking really sharp Bob, well done mate.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Rusty,
 
Just found you mate, mind if I jump aboard and follow, it's what I do best, ( follow that is ).
 
This I think will be a perfect build for me to follow for when I build my Armed Longboat, given a few variances.
 
Good luck with this one mate.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi folks
 
Thanks for all of your comments and Likes!
 
Well, I'll be damned!  These Caterpillar C32 Marine Diesels are going to be the death of me!  I've already built one engine, along with some pipework and I've come to the conclusion that I need Igor and Piet's skills to make a real go at it.  But, at slightly less than a centimetre long, let's be realistic about how much detail I can actually add to them.
 
I've persevered, though and, have come up with something that looks relatively realistic (well, to me, anyway!).  Please bear in mind that the painting still needs to be done.
 
Please see the photos below.  
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
Patrick

Hi all, I've been working on the hawse timbers  Sorry, no additional pics yet.  I'm now on version 3 of the hawse timbers and I'm struggling with them to be honest.  Not the making them part, but drawing them and getting everything around them to line up.  In a post above I described changing the number of cant frames to help alignment, I I had to do that a 3rd time.  Not only the widths of the hawse timbers (which directly affect the spacing of the hawse holes) have been tricky to determine but the height of the hawse holes as well.  I posted a topic over in the research section, I won't go into details here - if you'd like to take a look it's here:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12746-usf-essex-1812-vertical-location-of-the-hawse-hole-question/
 
I was doing more research and I stumbled on Alan Yedlinky's scantling book.  I had no idea that was out, so I ordered a copy and it arrived today.  I plan to bury my nose in it and see what else I can learn that may help me (or confuse me more...)  As soon as i have some real progress I'll post some pics. 
 
As always, thanks for looking in, hitting the like button or replying...

The same template process was used to rout the profile of the apron.


 
 
 

Here's how I plan on making the stem, a test piece was made from pine.  I'm going to use template routing.  To do this requires a template of the desired profile.  I won't go into details on pattern routing, it would take much text to describe the process in detail and would bore 99% of you.  Anyone interested can google "template routing" or "complimentary template routing"  to see the process described in detail.
 
I made a pattern of the stem's profile at the apron by sanding to a paper template.  This pattern has to be made perfectly as it will be the master for all other templates needed.  The I used the pattern to create negative pattern out of high quality hardboard..


 
The negative pattern has to be reduced by the diameter of the pattern router bit to be used.


Here it fits the stem profile perfectly.  

 
The stem blank was made using scarph joints.


 

 
Next, the stem blank was placed in the proper location on the template.

 
Here's the back of the template.  You can see the excess that will be routed away.

 
And after routing.

 
Later after installing onto the bulkhead the stem's thickness will be sanded down using another pattern so the knee of the head can be built up.

hi all, back for an update.  First, I hope all had a Merry Christmas and here's wishing all of you a happy new year!
 
Here's where I'm at currently.  I'm shaping the cant frames and working on the hawse timbers.   I made a test run of the hawse timbers out of pine to get a feel for making them.  It's become apparent I need 2 more cant frames.  Without them there's too much space that needs to be filled with hawse timbers.  I used Portia T's plan as a guide for laying out the cants, but I see now I need to add 2 more.  Once I do that then 4 hawse timbers will work- instead of the 5 I have now.  That also lets the hawse holes line up in the correct place.
 
Also, I will go back and mill out the air space between the hawse timbers once I get them shaped.  The pine is a good test sample for practicing doing that on the mill.  That and drilling the hawse holes,
 
Still a lot more shaping to do, but it's getting there.
 
Pics

All the Cant frames are made now.  They're all pinned with brass pins for alignment, and I've screwed the frames to the bulkhead.  This allows me to remove and reinstall and keep alignment.



 
I also added a piece to form the apron that sill needs to be trimmed.  In the beginning I'd planned for the area at the rabbet to be planked over, but now I'm thinking I'm going to be able to have it show so I need to add some pear in place of the plywood since it would be visible.  


 
I also pinned the bulkhead extension to the main bulkhead to hold it in place (in this pic it's on the temporary bulkhead) and added truss rods through the cant frames on each side to hold them tightly to the square frames.  

 
Next some shaping and the stem.  As always thanks to everyone for the likes and for looking in.

More Cant frames made.  Using the mill for the scarph joints  is working out fine

 
I'm beveling each frame where it goes against the center bulkhead, just as it would if this were a conventional deadwood joint.  The frame looks like it's beveled, but it's an optical illusion.

 
Here's a close up of the top of the plywood "frames" against the center bulkhead.


 
And a few more in positon


 
Won't be long before I'll have to start on the stem and apron, and the hawse timbers/Knight Heads.  

With work on the hull complete, it was time to work to begin work on the mast (the bowsprit was already done in connection with the interior detailing). I began with the lower mast. The process was straightforward: I started with a dowel cut to a length that included the below deck portion, the head and the tenon for the cap; the below deck portion was filed to a shape to fit the four sided slot that I had long ago created on the bulkhead former; the head was cut and sanded to it's square shape and the tenon was further cut and sanded to it's smaller square shape; flat areas were sanded below the head for the cheeks. The mast below the cheeks was stained golden oak and given a coat of Wipe-on Poly.
 
The mast was now ready for the addition of it's various fittings: this began with the cheeks which were cut from boxwood sheet and glued in place; next was the boom rest, which was cut from boxwood sheet, glued in place and it's supports added, made from boxwood strip; lastly, I made cleats from boxwood strip and pinned and glued them in place.
 
Next, I made up the trestletrees and crosstrees from boxwood strip. Slots were sawed and chiseled to fit the pieces to the head. The crosstrees were bent to shape and the parts were assembled and glued in place on the head. I then painted the head and the trestletree-crosstree assembly black and lastly added black painted paper bands on the head and eyebolts through the after side of the bands. I also added a pin to the mast to hold the main yard in place.
 
The last work was to make the mast cap and mast coat. Both were cut from boxwood sheet with appropriate holes drilled and filed before they were cut out. Eyebolts were added to the cap and both parts were painted black.
 
Finally I installed the mast in the hull slot. I prefer to glue it in place permanently for stability, although I know that there are differences of opinion about this.
 
Bob

Hi Mark,
 
Don't you find that working upside down all the blood rushes to your head
 
I love what your doing here mate and thanks for the step by step, the clear glazing is really quite authentic in it's shape, they look really good.
 
Working through the failures isn't it satisfying when it all comes together and you achieve those results. Well done mate.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Mark,
 
Don't you find that working upside down all the blood rushes to your head
 
I love what your doing here mate and thanks for the step by step, the clear glazing is really quite authentic in it's shape, they look really good.
 
Working through the failures isn't it satisfying when it all comes together and you achieve those results. Well done mate.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Mark,
 
Don't you find that working upside down all the blood rushes to your head
 
I love what your doing here mate and thanks for the step by step, the clear glazing is really quite authentic in it's shape, they look really good.
 
Working through the failures isn't it satisfying when it all comes together and you achieve those results. Well done mate.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

To start assembling the laser cut stern frames I first had to glue the two outer
frames for each side together. They were then placed in the corresponding slots
on the stern. Then three more frames were glued to these. In all 5 layers were
assembled on each side.
 
Here they are all glued and clamped to dry.
 

 
Once dry the laser char was removed. A reference line needed to be marked on
the frames. To do this I glued a piece of pencil lead to the end. Holding the strip
wood against the hull I traced the reference line. The wood will be removed so it
is close to the hull fairing.
 

 

Hi all,
Well all of the uprights have been added and the first round of sanding completed.
Adding the extra bracing worked well for me as I didn’t snap anything off……yet!
 
 

 

 
Though this is listed as a scratch build I will from time to time (read every chance I get)
use Chuck’s laser cut products. Purely for research purposes mind you.
 
Next I'll start framing the stern. One of many ah....cheats I will be doing. I ordered the
boxwood frames from Chuck and they are perfect.
 
 
 

After the preliminary fairing of the hull I used batten strips to mark the gun port sills.
I pinned it to several bulkheads and used rubber cement on the bulkheads that were not
pinned. I was able to make some subtle adjustments to get what looked like a smooth run.
 

 

 
After marking the sill’s location I cut them out of boxwood. I choose to install them between
every bulk head for added stability for the final fairing.
 

 

 
Now it’s time for more for more sanding. Oh such fun.
 

Nicely done Piet, you have a very good set of skills and you make the most of them.
 
Anchors are going to look terrific when finished.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Today was rather productive, albeit short.  I didn't get to the shipyard till around ten a m but soldered the second anchor together.  Then it was cleaning them and roughly polishing them.  I don't want them to appear as jewelry, leaving them a little rustic like the ship is, a good match.
Next step was installing the stock.  I put a small dab of CA at the center anchoring bolt and then some PVA at the ends of the stock.
 
Next I made the rings for the anchor cable.  This posed a slight problem because the shank in square and I had to make the ring with a flat part that goes through the shank. It was a little tricky getting the ring to look like a ring yet also let it rotate in the shank.  Next problem was soldering the ends together in such a way to make it look like a forged ring.  I don't know if anyone on the forum ever have welded iron rings like chain links, in a black smithy or forge fire.  Very tricky - yes I have.  In any case this reminded me of that process. I filed both ends to a taper so that when thy are soldered together they should look like one piece.  Perhaps I'm making it a lot more difficult then need be, again not really knowing how they did it in 1665.  It turned out acceptable to me and if it's not the way it should be Jan will most certainly let me know.  One more thing I need to look at using the URL Jan gave me.
\I normally don't start with MSW till late in the evening, sorry Jan for not yet getting to look at the model in the Rijksmuseum.  Tomorrow for sure, before I do anything else.
 
After lunch I cleaned up and started making the bands for around the stock.  I made three that are actually ready to be put on and the ends soldered.  Then it was time to close shop.  I cancelled the order for the iron bands
 
Tomorrow we'll make the bolts for the stock and finish the anchors.  There is still a smaller anchor I want to make.  We'll see - the 3.2 mm brass bar is a little to hefty for the smaller anchor and ordering a smaller bar at the total cost of $12.00 is a little much at tgis stage - - unless I hand machine these down.
 

Here I am in the process of filing the ring ends to a taper.  If you squint real good you may be able to see the spit and start of the taper.  I had to put a toothpick in it to hold the ring up for the picture.
 

Here we see the finished ring.
 

Here are both main anchors posing for the picture.  Now the only thing left are the bolts that hold the stock pieces together.
 
I hope all yuns approve.
 
Cheers,

Well, it looks like I lucked out this time and everything in my previous post showed up as advertise.
 
Today I continued with cutting the last fluke out of that brass sheet stock and filed the last two to size.  Looking at them on the anchor arm they looked just too heavy for scale and flat.  So, I decided to hand machine them down somewhat and at the same time machine a curve into them.  
Yes, it's a lot of work but so what, it's only a few more hours of my time.  I did use diamond impregnated mini grinding wheels though to speed-up the work.  I brought the thickness down to 1.2 mm, not bad at all.  The final shaping was done with a series of files.  I'll wait with the final dressing till after all the parts are soldered on and the anchor is completed.
 
I did not make any pictures of the grinding and filing, all yuns know how to do that - - right?  I also didn't make any pics of the soldering for the same reason and besides I don't have an extra set of arms
 
So then, tomorrow I'll assemble anchor numero duo and put the stock on.  I plan to wrap three straps around each side to secure the two halves together.  That'll be fun, soft soldering the brass straps on the cherry stock without burning them
 
That'll complete both main anchors and I think I need to make a smaller one to display somewhere on the ship.
 
Here are two pics, hope you approve.
 

 

 
Cheers,

Okay, I pasted yesterday's post here and see if I can add the pics in the right sequence.
 
The first thing I did this morning, after my morning cup of coffee, was drive up to Bunnel to the hardware store to buy some brass flat stock for the anchor flukes.
It so happened that when I asked the store attendant if they have numbered drill bits he showed me where.  Oh my, I was in heaven, and bought a bunch of the smallest they have, from # 60 to #56.  Next trip I'll get some more of the other sizes to replenish my drill index box.
 
I was now able to drill the holes for stock locking bolts in the shafts, which was the first thing I did when I got home.   .  Worked just beautiful with brand new USA made #60 drill bit, which is about 1.1 mm and will work just fine with the 1 mm rod I'm using.  I also managed to drill a new hole right next to the one with the broken bit in it.  The stock will hide it. 
 
After that was done I transferred the shape of the fluke to the brass sheet stock, which is 1/16 inch or 1.7 mm.  It's a little on the thick side but all the brass sheet stock I have in house is too thin and the store didn't have the size I really wsanted, soooooh - beggars can't be choosers.  I can always machine them thinner if need be.
 
Well, I was only able to cut out three, using my jeweler's jigsaw and finishing two of them.  I tried cutting them out on the Proxxon jigsaw but that was waiting for breaking a bunch of saw blades.  So back to my old trusted hand held jigsaw that I still have from when I was a kid in Holland.
It only took me 1/2 hour to cut one out, which is not too bad considering - - -  I wanted to finish at least one pair before closing shop for today.
 
I also completed the stocks for both anchors, including the securing bolt holes.
 
Now let's see if the transfer of the pics work out better.  
 

This shows my old trusty jigsaw with a fine tooth metal saw blade.
 

One fluke cut out, ready for dressing it down.
 

Two completed anchor flukes.
 

Here I have placed the two completed flukes on the arm cut-outs.
 

 
Cheers,

Hi Denis,
 
Here I am again, popping up to check that you haven't gone completely of the rails and I must say I have no need to worry.
 
There's far too much progress to mention all at once but I have to say that the windows, lights, shingles, paintwork and drip rail all look absolutely great.
 
I wonder just how the warming cabin effects the boats stability though.
 
I do have a suggestion for the roof, have you thought about putting Solar Panels on, might work. Just a thought.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Mark,
 
Don't you find that working upside down all the blood rushes to your head
 
I love what your doing here mate and thanks for the step by step, the clear glazing is really quite authentic in it's shape, they look really good.
 
Working through the failures isn't it satisfying when it all comes together and you achieve those results. Well done mate.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Mark,
 
Don't you find that working upside down all the blood rushes to your head
 
I love what your doing here mate and thanks for the step by step, the clear glazing is really quite authentic in it's shape, they look really good.
 
Working through the failures isn't it satisfying when it all comes together and you achieve those results. Well done mate.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Mark,
 
Don't you find that working upside down all the blood rushes to your head
 
I love what your doing here mate and thanks for the step by step, the clear glazing is really quite authentic in it's shape, they look really good.
 
Working through the failures isn't it satisfying when it all comes together and you achieve those results. Well done mate.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

I got a bit more done today......wasn't sure what I wanted to do first.   I settled on some shingle work......finally do something with all that mahogany I chopped up.  setting up the ruler again,  lines were drawn on the strips.......I used 10 mm as a guide,  but they are different widths.   they will give the appearance of separation lines between the shingles.
 

 
this isn't all of them......just enough to start off with.   for the next step in preparing them,  I took a razor blade and cut triangles out at the ends of the lines.
 

 

 
I started with the starboard wall........cutting one of the bare strips into narrower strips.  these strips I will line the bottom of the wall 'field',  in between the trim.   then the first shingle strip is cut and placed,  it will act as a backing for the triangle cutouts,  and won't show any white.
 

 
I kept the stagger of visible shingles @ 8 mm....don't know why I chose it.........seemed like a good increment.   as they climbed up the wall,  they presented a problem.   originally I was going to make them from basswood...individual shingles, and I was going to taper the thickness.   but,  I used the mahogany instead,  and I didn't taper them.  now the shingles wanted to jut out from the wall.  to cure that,  I cut short lengths of odd pieces of planking,  and clamped them,  in an effort to make them lay flat on each other.  as you can see,  the triangle cutouts are also staggered.
 

 
the windows got shuffled around while this was going on......first on my desk.....later on the main table.  I examined them at that point and flipped them over.   they came free from the plastic wrap easily......now they can get some air,  if they need it.   they're very shiny  
 

 
finally,  the wall was done and had time to dry........I could remove all the clamping stuff.   the 8 mm spacing was good all the way up.
 

 

 
three walls left.........that's not counting the roof