kellrandy

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Thanks again Daniel, as I said when I started this thing, this is my first scratch build.  The past couple of days, I have found quite a few more discrepancies but have just accepted it and will just build from the assembly plans from now on and the cutting templates I'll leave as a starting point.  So, I'm going to rebuild the keel (this will be the fourth time building it).  I didn't like the way the rabbet turned out anyhow, lol.  In the mean time, here's a few pictures of my progress so far...
 


I'm wondering what to do with the bobstay, as it is a shade lighter than the rest of the mahogany.  It does add a little character I guess.
 

Aft deadwood, ready to carve the steps.
 

The scarf joint on the keel, which is getting re-done.

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Hey everyone, been a very long time since I've posted. I just went through the worst year of my life, but it is finally starting to calm down. After divorce, getting laid off from my job, getting a new job, and two moves later, I'm finally able to continue work on my Triton build. It's been in storage, along with all of my tools, workbench, and so on for almost a year now. It's now in my new place and sawdust finally started to pile up again. Its in the same stage as my last post over a year ago and have begun erecting more frames. Everything stayed safe and sound in my storage unit which was climate controlled and everything, which was good. So, soon I will post up some more pics of the framing, and the process I took to do it. It's going to be like the one for my frame construction, so it will be a little while. Hopefully no one has forgotten about me, but I'm back and building again which feels great.

Hi Mike, thanks for the reply. The dead wood does fair thinner than the keel and stern post assembly. That is allow the planking to lay flush with the keel and stem. It took me a while too to figure out how to read the plans as well. Wang's Triton build and EdT's Niad build logs are a wealth of great information to help along the way. Happy building!
 
Randall

Hi Mike, thanks for the reply. The dead wood does fair thinner than the keel and stern post assembly. That is allow the planking to lay flush with the keel and stem. It took me a while too to figure out how to read the plans as well. Wang's Triton build and EdT's Niad build logs are a wealth of great information to help along the way. Happy building!
 
Randall

Hi Mike, thanks for the reply. The dead wood does fair thinner than the keel and stern post assembly. That is allow the planking to lay flush with the keel and stem. It took me a while too to figure out how to read the plans as well. Wang's Triton build and EdT's Niad build logs are a wealth of great information to help along the way. Happy building!
 
Randall

Hey everyone, been a very long time since I've posted. I just went through the worst year of my life, but it is finally starting to calm down. After divorce, getting laid off from my job, getting a new job, and two moves later, I'm finally able to continue work on my Triton build. It's been in storage, along with all of my tools, workbench, and so on for almost a year now. It's now in my new place and sawdust finally started to pile up again. Its in the same stage as my last post over a year ago and have begun erecting more frames. Everything stayed safe and sound in my storage unit which was climate controlled and everything, which was good. So, soon I will post up some more pics of the framing, and the process I took to do it. It's going to be like the one for my frame construction, so it will be a little while. Hopefully no one has forgotten about me, but I'm back and building again which feels great.

Hey everyone, been a very long time since I've posted. I just went through the worst year of my life, but it is finally starting to calm down. After divorce, getting laid off from my job, getting a new job, and two moves later, I'm finally able to continue work on my Triton build. It's been in storage, along with all of my tools, workbench, and so on for almost a year now. It's now in my new place and sawdust finally started to pile up again. Its in the same stage as my last post over a year ago and have begun erecting more frames. Everything stayed safe and sound in my storage unit which was climate controlled and everything, which was good. So, soon I will post up some more pics of the framing, and the process I took to do it. It's going to be like the one for my frame construction, so it will be a little while. Hopefully no one has forgotten about me, but I'm back and building again which feels great.

Hey everyone, been a very long time since I've posted. I just went through the worst year of my life, but it is finally starting to calm down. After divorce, getting laid off from my job, getting a new job, and two moves later, I'm finally able to continue work on my Triton build. It's been in storage, along with all of my tools, workbench, and so on for almost a year now. It's now in my new place and sawdust finally started to pile up again. Its in the same stage as my last post over a year ago and have begun erecting more frames. Everything stayed safe and sound in my storage unit which was climate controlled and everything, which was good. So, soon I will post up some more pics of the framing, and the process I took to do it. It's going to be like the one for my frame construction, so it will be a little while. Hopefully no one has forgotten about me, but I'm back and building again which feels great.

Hey everyone, been a little while, but have been quite busy lately.  So I have all the frames completed!!  Now I'm in the process of cleaning up and getting things ready to start erecting them.  I also made just a couple of those clamps that EdT described in his Naiad log, plus some adjustable squares, and a homemade plumb-bob out of a fishing weight to use to make sure the frame is centered and level. I'm also going to be using fillers as I go.  I'll be adding in the fillers for the cant frames as well.
 
Here's the couple of clamps I made. At least for me, they were pretty difficult to make, but was able to do so and most importantly, they work! 
 

 
Finally, I read through my build and noticed that I hadn't really described how I do anything, and feel pretty bad about it. I just put up some pics of the end results, so below is a walk through of how I constructed the frames. From now on, I'll be doing these walk throughs for every major construction sequence. Also, my apologies to the community for not doing it that way in the first place, the way I believe build logs are supposed to be written.
 
I know most folks doing this build are beyond this point, but it might help some that may decide to pick it up.  Also, if anyone sees anything that I can improve upon for future builds, by all means please let me know what I could do better as this is my first scratch build and only my second ship, there are probably plenty of things I could do better or differently that will improve the outcome.
 
Step 1:
All pieces were cut a little outside of the lines, ends sanded to size.  Then they were test fit on the patterns to ensure the joints lined up properly.


 
Step 2: The blue-lined pieces were darkened on the joint ends with my trusty Sharpie marker. If you decide to go this route, test the marker on scrap pieces of the same wood before deciding to use it. The marker may bleed into the wood and the glue does change the color of the lines. Experimentation is the best method. Then the blue-lined pieces were glued making sure the beveling lines and joints match-up on the pattern and allowed to cure.
 


 
Step 3:
Once the blue-lined pieces have cured, the red-lined pieces were test fit and the ends were marked on the blue pieces. The assembly template was removed and saved for later. I used a scrap piece of MDF that I roughly cut the corners to accommodate the different curves of the frames and have plenty of room to clamp them.

 
Step 4:
The floor futtock template was cut along the dotted line where the first futtock begins using a hobby knife and the end of the 1st futtock we marked in the previous step was also cut. This portion of the template was removed, sanded a little to ensure the joint on the blue lined pieces was flush, then darkened with the good ole sharpie again.

 
Step 5:
The joint ends and bottom where it would be glued to the blue lined pieces were blackened as well and the first futtock piece was glued and clamped into place taking care to line up the joint lines again with the first futtock and the below pattern piece.  The previous step and this one was repeated on the rest of the pieces. and allowed to cure completely. After I got up to frame 15 or so, I switched my glue to hide glue (the kind you don't have to warm). I love that stuff now, very hard and holds extremely well, and has a long open time. I've had pieces pop apart without much pressure using standard wood glue. If you screw up as often as I do, then all it takes is some warm water, a few minutes, and it will release pretty easily.


 
Step 6: Once the frame has cured completely, then it is sanded just unto the outer most line on both the inside and outer curves. The keel notch was cut using a small jeweler's saw and cleaned up with a file. Then double=checked with the frame's assembly pattern.


 
Step 7:
The pattern was then removed from the frame, which I will probably regret now that I think about it. Up next was the bolting. According to my source of research, on this period of ship and size, the bolts were 1", which translates to 0.020" at 1:48. I had initially planned on doing the chocks and scarfs for the top timbers as described in in my research, but didn't have the courage to do so for fear of screwing up the frames, so I left out those details. The pattern of the bolting is the standard offset pattern. They were cut a little long to allow for a good end when clipped and filled off.  They go completely through the frame and are set with a dab of CA inside the hole. After that, they are lightly sanded on the fore and aft faces to clean them up a little bit, and ta-da!


 

Hey everyone, been a little while, but have been quite busy lately.  So I have all the frames completed!!  Now I'm in the process of cleaning up and getting things ready to start erecting them.  I also made just a couple of those clamps that EdT described in his Naiad log, plus some adjustable squares, and a homemade plumb-bob out of a fishing weight to use to make sure the frame is centered and level. I'm also going to be using fillers as I go.  I'll be adding in the fillers for the cant frames as well.
 
Here's the couple of clamps I made. At least for me, they were pretty difficult to make, but was able to do so and most importantly, they work! 
 

 
Finally, I read through my build and noticed that I hadn't really described how I do anything, and feel pretty bad about it. I just put up some pics of the end results, so below is a walk through of how I constructed the frames. From now on, I'll be doing these walk throughs for every major construction sequence. Also, my apologies to the community for not doing it that way in the first place, the way I believe build logs are supposed to be written.
 
I know most folks doing this build are beyond this point, but it might help some that may decide to pick it up.  Also, if anyone sees anything that I can improve upon for future builds, by all means please let me know what I could do better as this is my first scratch build and only my second ship, there are probably plenty of things I could do better or differently that will improve the outcome.
 
Step 1:
All pieces were cut a little outside of the lines, ends sanded to size.  Then they were test fit on the patterns to ensure the joints lined up properly.


 
Step 2: The blue-lined pieces were darkened on the joint ends with my trusty Sharpie marker. If you decide to go this route, test the marker on scrap pieces of the same wood before deciding to use it. The marker may bleed into the wood and the glue does change the color of the lines. Experimentation is the best method. Then the blue-lined pieces were glued making sure the beveling lines and joints match-up on the pattern and allowed to cure.
 


 
Step 3:
Once the blue-lined pieces have cured, the red-lined pieces were test fit and the ends were marked on the blue pieces. The assembly template was removed and saved for later. I used a scrap piece of MDF that I roughly cut the corners to accommodate the different curves of the frames and have plenty of room to clamp them.

 
Step 4:
The floor futtock template was cut along the dotted line where the first futtock begins using a hobby knife and the end of the 1st futtock we marked in the previous step was also cut. This portion of the template was removed, sanded a little to ensure the joint on the blue lined pieces was flush, then darkened with the good ole sharpie again.

 
Step 5:
The joint ends and bottom where it would be glued to the blue lined pieces were blackened as well and the first futtock piece was glued and clamped into place taking care to line up the joint lines again with the first futtock and the below pattern piece.  The previous step and this one was repeated on the rest of the pieces. and allowed to cure completely. After I got up to frame 15 or so, I switched my glue to hide glue (the kind you don't have to warm). I love that stuff now, very hard and holds extremely well, and has a long open time. I've had pieces pop apart without much pressure using standard wood glue. If you screw up as often as I do, then all it takes is some warm water, a few minutes, and it will release pretty easily.


 
Step 6: Once the frame has cured completely, then it is sanded just unto the outer most line on both the inside and outer curves. The keel notch was cut using a small jeweler's saw and cleaned up with a file. Then double=checked with the frame's assembly pattern.


 
Step 7:
The pattern was then removed from the frame, which I will probably regret now that I think about it. Up next was the bolting. According to my source of research, on this period of ship and size, the bolts were 1", which translates to 0.020" at 1:48. I had initially planned on doing the chocks and scarfs for the top timbers as described in in my research, but didn't have the courage to do so for fear of screwing up the frames, so I left out those details. The pattern of the bolting is the standard offset pattern. They were cut a little long to allow for a good end when clipped and filled off.  They go completely through the frame and are set with a dab of CA inside the hole. After that, they are lightly sanded on the fore and aft faces to clean them up a little bit, and ta-da!


 

Hey everyone, been a little while, but have been quite busy lately.  So I have all the frames completed!!  Now I'm in the process of cleaning up and getting things ready to start erecting them.  I also made just a couple of those clamps that EdT described in his Naiad log, plus some adjustable squares, and a homemade plumb-bob out of a fishing weight to use to make sure the frame is centered and level. I'm also going to be using fillers as I go.  I'll be adding in the fillers for the cant frames as well.
 
Here's the couple of clamps I made. At least for me, they were pretty difficult to make, but was able to do so and most importantly, they work! 
 

 
Finally, I read through my build and noticed that I hadn't really described how I do anything, and feel pretty bad about it. I just put up some pics of the end results, so below is a walk through of how I constructed the frames. From now on, I'll be doing these walk throughs for every major construction sequence. Also, my apologies to the community for not doing it that way in the first place, the way I believe build logs are supposed to be written.
 
I know most folks doing this build are beyond this point, but it might help some that may decide to pick it up.  Also, if anyone sees anything that I can improve upon for future builds, by all means please let me know what I could do better as this is my first scratch build and only my second ship, there are probably plenty of things I could do better or differently that will improve the outcome.
 
Step 1:
All pieces were cut a little outside of the lines, ends sanded to size.  Then they were test fit on the patterns to ensure the joints lined up properly.


 
Step 2: The blue-lined pieces were darkened on the joint ends with my trusty Sharpie marker. If you decide to go this route, test the marker on scrap pieces of the same wood before deciding to use it. The marker may bleed into the wood and the glue does change the color of the lines. Experimentation is the best method. Then the blue-lined pieces were glued making sure the beveling lines and joints match-up on the pattern and allowed to cure.
 


 
Step 3:
Once the blue-lined pieces have cured, the red-lined pieces were test fit and the ends were marked on the blue pieces. The assembly template was removed and saved for later. I used a scrap piece of MDF that I roughly cut the corners to accommodate the different curves of the frames and have plenty of room to clamp them.

 
Step 4:
The floor futtock template was cut along the dotted line where the first futtock begins using a hobby knife and the end of the 1st futtock we marked in the previous step was also cut. This portion of the template was removed, sanded a little to ensure the joint on the blue lined pieces was flush, then darkened with the good ole sharpie again.

 
Step 5:
The joint ends and bottom where it would be glued to the blue lined pieces were blackened as well and the first futtock piece was glued and clamped into place taking care to line up the joint lines again with the first futtock and the below pattern piece.  The previous step and this one was repeated on the rest of the pieces. and allowed to cure completely. After I got up to frame 15 or so, I switched my glue to hide glue (the kind you don't have to warm). I love that stuff now, very hard and holds extremely well, and has a long open time. I've had pieces pop apart without much pressure using standard wood glue. If you screw up as often as I do, then all it takes is some warm water, a few minutes, and it will release pretty easily.


 
Step 6: Once the frame has cured completely, then it is sanded just unto the outer most line on both the inside and outer curves. The keel notch was cut using a small jeweler's saw and cleaned up with a file. Then double=checked with the frame's assembly pattern.


 
Step 7:
The pattern was then removed from the frame, which I will probably regret now that I think about it. Up next was the bolting. According to my source of research, on this period of ship and size, the bolts were 1", which translates to 0.020" at 1:48. I had initially planned on doing the chocks and scarfs for the top timbers as described in in my research, but didn't have the courage to do so for fear of screwing up the frames, so I left out those details. The pattern of the bolting is the standard offset pattern. They were cut a little long to allow for a good end when clipped and filled off.  They go completely through the frame and are set with a dab of CA inside the hole. After that, they are lightly sanded on the fore and aft faces to clean them up a little bit, and ta-da!


 

Hey everyone, been a little while, but have been quite busy lately.  So I have all the frames completed!!  Now I'm in the process of cleaning up and getting things ready to start erecting them.  I also made just a couple of those clamps that EdT described in his Naiad log, plus some adjustable squares, and a homemade plumb-bob out of a fishing weight to use to make sure the frame is centered and level. I'm also going to be using fillers as I go.  I'll be adding in the fillers for the cant frames as well.
 
Here's the couple of clamps I made. At least for me, they were pretty difficult to make, but was able to do so and most importantly, they work! 
 

 
Finally, I read through my build and noticed that I hadn't really described how I do anything, and feel pretty bad about it. I just put up some pics of the end results, so below is a walk through of how I constructed the frames. From now on, I'll be doing these walk throughs for every major construction sequence. Also, my apologies to the community for not doing it that way in the first place, the way I believe build logs are supposed to be written.
 
I know most folks doing this build are beyond this point, but it might help some that may decide to pick it up.  Also, if anyone sees anything that I can improve upon for future builds, by all means please let me know what I could do better as this is my first scratch build and only my second ship, there are probably plenty of things I could do better or differently that will improve the outcome.
 
Step 1:
All pieces were cut a little outside of the lines, ends sanded to size.  Then they were test fit on the patterns to ensure the joints lined up properly.


 
Step 2: The blue-lined pieces were darkened on the joint ends with my trusty Sharpie marker. If you decide to go this route, test the marker on scrap pieces of the same wood before deciding to use it. The marker may bleed into the wood and the glue does change the color of the lines. Experimentation is the best method. Then the blue-lined pieces were glued making sure the beveling lines and joints match-up on the pattern and allowed to cure.
 


 
Step 3:
Once the blue-lined pieces have cured, the red-lined pieces were test fit and the ends were marked on the blue pieces. The assembly template was removed and saved for later. I used a scrap piece of MDF that I roughly cut the corners to accommodate the different curves of the frames and have plenty of room to clamp them.

 
Step 4:
The floor futtock template was cut along the dotted line where the first futtock begins using a hobby knife and the end of the 1st futtock we marked in the previous step was also cut. This portion of the template was removed, sanded a little to ensure the joint on the blue lined pieces was flush, then darkened with the good ole sharpie again.

 
Step 5:
The joint ends and bottom where it would be glued to the blue lined pieces were blackened as well and the first futtock piece was glued and clamped into place taking care to line up the joint lines again with the first futtock and the below pattern piece.  The previous step and this one was repeated on the rest of the pieces. and allowed to cure completely. After I got up to frame 15 or so, I switched my glue to hide glue (the kind you don't have to warm). I love that stuff now, very hard and holds extremely well, and has a long open time. I've had pieces pop apart without much pressure using standard wood glue. If you screw up as often as I do, then all it takes is some warm water, a few minutes, and it will release pretty easily.


 
Step 6: Once the frame has cured completely, then it is sanded just unto the outer most line on both the inside and outer curves. The keel notch was cut using a small jeweler's saw and cleaned up with a file. Then double=checked with the frame's assembly pattern.


 
Step 7:
The pattern was then removed from the frame, which I will probably regret now that I think about it. Up next was the bolting. According to my source of research, on this period of ship and size, the bolts were 1", which translates to 0.020" at 1:48. I had initially planned on doing the chocks and scarfs for the top timbers as described in in my research, but didn't have the courage to do so for fear of screwing up the frames, so I left out those details. The pattern of the bolting is the standard offset pattern. They were cut a little long to allow for a good end when clipped and filled off.  They go completely through the frame and are set with a dab of CA inside the hole. After that, they are lightly sanded on the fore and aft faces to clean them up a little bit, and ta-da!


 

Hey everyone, been a little while, but have been quite busy lately.  So I have all the frames completed!!  Now I'm in the process of cleaning up and getting things ready to start erecting them.  I also made just a couple of those clamps that EdT described in his Naiad log, plus some adjustable squares, and a homemade plumb-bob out of a fishing weight to use to make sure the frame is centered and level. I'm also going to be using fillers as I go.  I'll be adding in the fillers for the cant frames as well.
 
Here's the couple of clamps I made. At least for me, they were pretty difficult to make, but was able to do so and most importantly, they work! 
 

 
Finally, I read through my build and noticed that I hadn't really described how I do anything, and feel pretty bad about it. I just put up some pics of the end results, so below is a walk through of how I constructed the frames. From now on, I'll be doing these walk throughs for every major construction sequence. Also, my apologies to the community for not doing it that way in the first place, the way I believe build logs are supposed to be written.
 
I know most folks doing this build are beyond this point, but it might help some that may decide to pick it up.  Also, if anyone sees anything that I can improve upon for future builds, by all means please let me know what I could do better as this is my first scratch build and only my second ship, there are probably plenty of things I could do better or differently that will improve the outcome.
 
Step 1:
All pieces were cut a little outside of the lines, ends sanded to size.  Then they were test fit on the patterns to ensure the joints lined up properly.


 
Step 2: The blue-lined pieces were darkened on the joint ends with my trusty Sharpie marker. If you decide to go this route, test the marker on scrap pieces of the same wood before deciding to use it. The marker may bleed into the wood and the glue does change the color of the lines. Experimentation is the best method. Then the blue-lined pieces were glued making sure the beveling lines and joints match-up on the pattern and allowed to cure.
 


 
Step 3:
Once the blue-lined pieces have cured, the red-lined pieces were test fit and the ends were marked on the blue pieces. The assembly template was removed and saved for later. I used a scrap piece of MDF that I roughly cut the corners to accommodate the different curves of the frames and have plenty of room to clamp them.

 
Step 4:
The floor futtock template was cut along the dotted line where the first futtock begins using a hobby knife and the end of the 1st futtock we marked in the previous step was also cut. This portion of the template was removed, sanded a little to ensure the joint on the blue lined pieces was flush, then darkened with the good ole sharpie again.

 
Step 5:
The joint ends and bottom where it would be glued to the blue lined pieces were blackened as well and the first futtock piece was glued and clamped into place taking care to line up the joint lines again with the first futtock and the below pattern piece.  The previous step and this one was repeated on the rest of the pieces. and allowed to cure completely. After I got up to frame 15 or so, I switched my glue to hide glue (the kind you don't have to warm). I love that stuff now, very hard and holds extremely well, and has a long open time. I've had pieces pop apart without much pressure using standard wood glue. If you screw up as often as I do, then all it takes is some warm water, a few minutes, and it will release pretty easily.


 
Step 6: Once the frame has cured completely, then it is sanded just unto the outer most line on both the inside and outer curves. The keel notch was cut using a small jeweler's saw and cleaned up with a file. Then double=checked with the frame's assembly pattern.


 
Step 7:
The pattern was then removed from the frame, which I will probably regret now that I think about it. Up next was the bolting. According to my source of research, on this period of ship and size, the bolts were 1", which translates to 0.020" at 1:48. I had initially planned on doing the chocks and scarfs for the top timbers as described in in my research, but didn't have the courage to do so for fear of screwing up the frames, so I left out those details. The pattern of the bolting is the standard offset pattern. They were cut a little long to allow for a good end when clipped and filled off.  They go completely through the frame and are set with a dab of CA inside the hole. After that, they are lightly sanded on the fore and aft faces to clean them up a little bit, and ta-da!


 

Thought I would chime in since I haven't posted in a while.  I didn't think it was all too important to post each and every frame as there are tons, but I have made it to the halfway point.  I finally have the aft square frames constructed, 0-19. There is quite a color disparity between the more midship frames and further aft (lighting in the first picture makes it look worse than it is), but it is still the same wood (mahogany) if you're wondering. Thats what you get when you buy as you go with the wood I guess. Gives it a little character, so I'm sticking with it.
 
I am quite burned out with making frames so I am taking a break from those for a little bit to make some jigs and things I plan to use when I erect them. I've been reading EdT's methods for doing things in his Naiad and Fair American builds on how he erects the frames and I am building some of the clamps he described and the adjustable squares he uses, and altering my gantry a little.  It will be time well spent and hopefully keep the mistakes to a minimum. Better the prep, better the outcome I think. Once that's done, then I'll finish up the rest of the frames.
 
Until next time, happy modeling!!

Howdy everyone.  I think I got the hawse frames worked out.  They're roughed out and still have quite a bit of fairing left to do on them, but think they came out pretty good.  I am happy with them.  I'm off building the aft square frames and fairing while they cure.  Have a good weekend, and to the folks in the US, have a great Memorial Day.
 

Thought I would chime in since I haven't posted in a while.  I didn't think it was all too important to post each and every frame as there are tons, but I have made it to the halfway point.  I finally have the aft square frames constructed, 0-19. There is quite a color disparity between the more midship frames and further aft (lighting in the first picture makes it look worse than it is), but it is still the same wood (mahogany) if you're wondering. Thats what you get when you buy as you go with the wood I guess. Gives it a little character, so I'm sticking with it.
 
I am quite burned out with making frames so I am taking a break from those for a little bit to make some jigs and things I plan to use when I erect them. I've been reading EdT's methods for doing things in his Naiad and Fair American builds on how he erects the frames and I am building some of the clamps he described and the adjustable squares he uses, and altering my gantry a little.  It will be time well spent and hopefully keep the mistakes to a minimum. Better the prep, better the outcome I think. Once that's done, then I'll finish up the rest of the frames.
 
Until next time, happy modeling!!