Jim Lad
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Posts posted by Jim Lad
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Nicely done, Ollie - your square drill obviously worked a treat!
John
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I caught the top of the mast and snapped about 1/4 inch off
Ouch!
Glad to see that you took it in your stride, Michael!John
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Just catching up, Toni! Thanks for your update of more delightful joinery work.
John
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Not what one would usually expect for gun ports, Popeye! Logically, with the ports open there must be a small coil of rope - as you say, on deck if it doesn't show in that photo. With the ports closed, there may well have been just enough rope to make to make fast on the cleat (no point in wasting expensive rope).
John
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Good progress, Andy.
Are stern anchors ever actually used in the lakes? I was on one ship that had a stern anchor, but it only left its hawse pipe to run the cable out for survey in dry dock.
John
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A good idea with that little guide for very fine sanding, Michael.
I would think the best source for very fine wire would be an electrical supplier - they use extremely fine wire for some windings.
John
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That Blackbean looks a nice timber, Ollie.
John
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Errr, gunport ropes on the railing? I thought your guns were on a lower deck, Popeye. Did I miss something?
John
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Michael,
Most miniaturists use fine copper wire or human hair for their rigging. The copper wire has the advantage of being able to be tied by simply twisting.
John
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Just catching up with what you're doing, Grant - she's looking very nice indeed!
John
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She's really looking classy, Tim!
John
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Ollie,
Go to the National Maritime Museum website (the Pommy NMM); go to 'collections' and search on 'windlass'. You'll find several photos of windlass models including a few early ones - all the ones you want are on the first couple of pages.
As for the square holes, use a square drill, of course!
I drill a small hole and then square the hole out with the tip of a very small square escapement file I have. In case of a lack of square files small enough, try filing down a small length of steel to a square point; drill the hole; then ease the hole out to square by pushing the squared steel spike into it. Try on a piece of scrap of the same type of wood first just to check that it works OK.John
- ringbolt2013, egkb, olliechristo and 1 other
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Ollie,
I think your windlass would be more likely to look like this one from a contemporary model of the 'Harriet' in the National Maritime Museum at Greenwich, with the holes for handspikes to operate it, although from King's sketch of the 'Mermaid', it would appear that her windlass had the crossbar as well.
Also note that in that photo you posted the port anchor cable is incorrect - the cable should lead over the windlass drum and not under it as shown so that heaving on the handspikes from behind the windlass will heave the cable in.
John
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I use my proportional dividers all the time when planking. With the scale set to the correct proportion, it's a very quick way of transferring the correct plank width at each frame from model to plank.
John
- WackoWolf and avsjerome2003
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Hmmm. I thought the Craig was more of a rust red when she was towed to Sydney, but mid green would look nice!
That planking's coming on really well, mate!
John
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That's great news, Michael.. It's always good to find access to the original!
John
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That certainly looks the goods, Tom!
John
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The keel and stem make a huge difference, Ollie!
John
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Just gets better and better, Piet. I can't wait to see the conning tower taking shape!
John
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Great perseverance to get a better result, Popeye!
John
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Our Emblem ®
Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Posted
Delightful, Michael. If you keep having these re-thinks we might have to start calling you 'Rework Mott'!
John