gieb8688

Thank-you everyone for the well wishes! My eye is healing quite nicely.
I've put together a very basic mini tutorial and hope it may be of help to someone.
 
I bought a brass turned cannon, of the correct scale for my ship, to use as a reference model.
I had a piece of round plastic dowel on hand, which I carved and sanded until it was the same size as the reference model.
Next, I cut paper trapezoids and rolled them around the plastic dowel, and sealed with some white glue. The dowel ensured that all my cannons would be the same.
 

 

 

 
Next up, I marked the location for each ring, by comparing to the reference model and cut very thin strips of paper and glued them in place. This can be tricky since the paper tube is narrow at one end and the strip naturally wants to spiral up the tube.
 

 

 

 
The cascabels/miniature mushrooms    , were fashioned from polymer clay, then baked and glued in place. I had tried carving them from a wood dowel, but decided that clay would be a faster option.
 

 

 
At this point the "bore" was added. I dipped a toothpick in white glue and applied a thin film around the inside of the end of the cannon. Once dry I repeated once or twice more as needed.
 

 
This picture is a repeat from my last update, but it gives a good idea of the different stages.
 

 
Finally, a couple of thin layers of flat black acrylic were added and allowed to dry, followed by dry-brushing with yellow-ochre that was tamed down with a little brown.
 

 
This last picture shows the finished paper cannon beside the original brass cannon, which I also painted. 
 

 
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Well after being warned by both of you, I thought I'd give the stern a little more forethought than usual, before bevelling and I promptly ran into a dilemma.
 
It was quite obvious when even looking at the bulkheads that something was not right. The test strips for planking I use as a guide for bevelling just didn't line up against the bulkheads very well at all.


With the plans I had right-clicked from the internet I decided to check each bulkhead working from the back towards the front before I started sanding
 
16 looked ok...[ish]...

while 15 would also have been passable, but from there it just went from bad to worse (the dotted line is the kits part), here's 15

14...

13...

12...

11...

10...

this made me curious so I decided to check them from the bow as well
 
2...

3...

4...

and 5

Conclusion: if  the plans I am using here are really the Diana (and I believe they are, although I have no firm evidence), then the rear bulkheads are quite a bit out of shape. The front ones are very close to to my plans. Close enough to pass anyway.
 
That is even apparent when looking at them stacked like here

I don't have the AOTS here yet, as it hasn't arrived in the mail. I'm wondering if someone here could scan the drawing with the frames for me, so that I could check the bulkheads with it as an alternative source.
 
I'm thinking of making scratch built formers for the stern here, just to see how they work out, before I start cutting around on the kit's parts
 
--Chris

I'm pretty confident the bulkheads were aligned correctly when I compared them with the plans. The waterlines were the references I used for aligning.
 
To put this more into perspective I drew on the bulkheads where the curvatures should be according to the plans. Bulkhead #14 would need to have the most shaved off.
 
Looking forard to this evening, Bro' Let's see what we come up with
 

No work today. Hit the workshop after dinner. Before I knew it ... it's 4AM!!! In any case, made some nice progress. 
 

 
All planking below the waterline is done, and the hull sanded down. It is smoooooooth. 
 

 
I made a decision to stop all work above the main deck level and complete planking below the waterline first. This was because I knew I had to invert the ship and did not want the delicate structures above the MDL to be vulnerable. As you can see, this planking is unsupported. The planking above MDL survived ... until I inverted it to sand the bottom. Because this generates so much dust, I do it outside. CRACK, the inevitable happened. 
 
I was never happy with the planks above the MDL anyway. I will rip out both sides and start again. 
 

 
I also made a start with the gunport lining. I am not sure of the shade of red I have chosen (Vallejo Flat Red). To me it looks a bit like lipstick. I have a more dull red in my cabinet (Admiralty Models Red Ochre) which IMO is too dull. I might persist with it for now. 

Fig 3: Planking the false upper gun deck
 
So the fun and games then began and my first decision to deviate from the plans. Fig 3 just showed the gundeck being vaguely planked in some way and some sort of material being used as caulking.
 
I did some research online (though somehow still didn't manage to find this site) and decided I would purchase some bonded black nylon thread for my caulking and that I would cut the deck planking strips provided into 9cm lengths (seemed to replicate a reasonable plank length), such that they could be staggered at 3cm intervals and look like some sort of butt shift system.
 
I started down the centre-line and worked out to one side, finally cutting and shaping round the bulkheads. Then switched around and did the same the other side. The final touches were to paint the whole thing in red ochre (as I'd read about the decks being painted red to prevent the spilled blood distressing the crew) and to add some deck "nails", 2 at each end and 1 at each 3cm point along the lengths. This was done using a 0.5mm black pilot pen.
 
In hindsight (and having done lots more research and reading now) I realise I should have done a proper 3 or 4 butt system, as on the ship herself, but what's done is done.
 
It took a long time to do but I was very pleased with the effect created, even though a lot of this deck won't be seen once the quarterdeck is added later.

I came up with the oak-wash idea myself, essentially watering down a normal oak varnish with some water. Was really pleased with the overall look of the decking, as it will be the main bit that people will see on the completed model.
 
I added the skylight to the middle of the poop.

Fig 5: False poop deck and planking both the quarterdeck and the poop deck
 
This was a huge area of planking and given it was going to be oak-wash stained when I finished (and hence be covered up), I decided to cheat a little and plank in long lengths, using the same pilot pen used for the deck nail effect, on the upper gundeck below, to then ink in the butt shift effect and the deck nails on the quarterdeck planking.
 
I still used the bonded nylon along the edges between the planks to simulate the caulking.

Figs 4 & 4A: False quarterdeck and cabins
 
Again, the false deck fitted between the various bulkheads with virtually no adjusting. Excellent laser-cutting! The cabin woodwork was quite fiddly to do. I fashioned the leading to the window frames out of a bar code printed onto some sticky labels at work and then cut out and stuck onto the acetate provided with the kit.

Hello friends.
Manufacture of ropes for the shrouds of the main mast.
Regards Karl
 
 
 
 
T e i l  5 7

Just some more views of the general build now that the inner bulwarks are planked.
 
Tony

Now to show the tapered planks I put at the top of the bulwarks bow and stern. I couldn’t mimic the outer planking of bending the planks to the curve of the bulwarks, as that would have left a really awkward fill by the deck at bow and stern. I therefore planked the first three planks parallel to the deck, and cut rebates in the 3rd plank at the top to allow some stealers at stem and stern. This is of course nothing like real life, but I reckoned that it was all going to be painted and that the joins of the stealers would be relatively hidden under the rail that goes on top of them.
 
The last picture is of the bows, showing just how badly I have done in achieving any kind of symmetry.
 
Still, it’s all down to the learning, and I’ll keep you all posted as I go along so you can put me right rather than trying to figure out very poor solutions for myself.
 
Tony

It has been quite some time since my last post, but as you can see some progress has been made!  Clearly some cleaning is in order!! 

It has been quite some time since my last post, but as you can see some progress has been made!  Clearly some cleaning is in order!! 

Adding a few recent pictures of progress.  Holy cow are the shrouds time consuming!  Then again, maybe working smarter instead of harder would have helped! 
Thanks for looking,
Mark

Finally finished the shrouds on the foremast along with some misc. standing rigging.  Moving on to the mainmast next.

The main and mizzen top masts are now in place, and have all their shrouds and ratlines added, phew, I am glad they are all finished and that I split it up this way, as it did make the ratlines a lot less tedious to tie,I will now most likely add as much of the standing rigging that I can before fitting the tagallants masts.
I have also included some photos of Diana with Pegasus and The lady Nelson.
 
Firstly a lower fold down table I used to bring the rigging to a better level to work at

 
Main and mizzen masts



Completed ratlines



 
 
Some photos of Diana with Pegasus And some with The Lady Nelson as well

Hello,
thank you very much for your kind words and the comments.
Here I show the continuation of rigging the carronades.

 

Hello,
in addition to the breeching ropes for carronades I am also working on the breeching ropes for the 18 pounder guns.
A small detail for the height adjustment of the gun barrels had to be done. The straps of the wood blocks had to be installed.
In the background is the breeching rope already seen.

And onto the second of my completed build posts!
 
The last part towards completion was the case. I've hinted that I was going to try something a little different and I'm immensely happy to say that I managed to complete the case without any mishaps. And here is the final result:
 

 
I ordered a wooden base and acrylic case from a supplier and also a sheet of blue acrylic. The sheet of blue acrylic was to simulate water level and I measured up the approx. dimensions of the ship at the water level and then deducted a few mm to be safe. I then cut out the approximate shape of the ship from the acrylic sheet. Then spent a long while iterating towards a good fit, using a dremel and then files, so that the ship rested in the acrylic sheet at the water line.
 
Once this was complete (and I polished out the scratches I accidently made), it was onto the main case. I need to drill four small holes to fit 10mm lengths of 3mm diameter acrylic rod through each hole to act as a rest for the waterline sheet. This was the most tense section as I could easily write off £80 worth of acrylic case. Stacked a load of old paperbacks and a piece of wood to brace the acrylic against. Then VERY carefully drilled a 1mm pilot hole by hand. Using the pilot hole I then used the dremel at its lowest setting to drill 2mm and then 3mm.
 
Everything worked out well and I'm very pleased with the final result.
 

 

 

 
Thank you to everyone who has followed the log and provided encouragement and support. Now I really must get back to my Snake build.....!!

Pictures as promised!
 
This is the display case I received yesterday. Still some work to do on it though......
 

 
Here is the first nun buoy attached to the fore shrouds by two coils of rope. Thicker rope attached the bottom of the buoy is also lashed to the anchor.
 

 

 
And finally added guy pendants to the boom.
 

 
 

And the build is complete!
 
Got all the little bits and pieces finished. Painted all the rigging hooks, added the second nun buoy and rigged to the shroud and anchor, added the last belaying coils and touched up the white paint around the rudder hinges.
 
Really happy with the completed build, and while it is not strictly my first build, it is my first completed build and it feels like a major accomplishment. I've added some images of the completed build itself but still got the completed to case to unveil!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the model is finished. I've decided on the name Hr Ms Banckert. this destroyer was in dry dock in Soerabaya when the Japanese invaded Java, and was sunk (including drydock) by my other model Hr Ms K-XVIII (herself then destroyed by her crew). All 8 of the class were sunk in WW2, one by the Germans in Rotterdam and the others by the Japanese in the Dutch East Indies.
 
The first time working with PE and with airbrush has not been a disappointment. With a lot of patience it was well doable and the overall level of detail that Boris built into this model is very nice. pacific Crossroads has a set of models of many other Dutch warships that fought in the pacific, and I can certainly recommend then to anyone interested.
 

 

 

 
freek

Hello again
 
My studies and the beginning of the planning of “Stavanger“ go back to the year 2012. Again and again the work has been interrupteed by various reasons. But she was never out of my mind.
 
In June 2014, i stumbled on NRG'S MODEL SHIP WORLD. Originally because of the sensational images of 'Le Fleuron' by rekon54. Browseing the NRG-page i found the pilot by Michael Mott what inspired me and what newly motivated my work on “Stavanger“ – now i was ready to start with the build.
 
Mike
 
Below:
- start of the build
- wooden part of the keel
- stem
- stern
- raw frames
 
 

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
Next step is fitting the jibboom and associated head rigging. Key points include:
 
>>> Deadeye assemblies prepared with silver soldered rings
>>> Deadeye assemblies fitted to bow
>>> Jibboom / dolphin striker outfitted with eyebands
>>> Jibboom / dolphan striker fitted and head rigging installed
>>> Martingale stays and backstays fabricated from 27 links/in brass chain
>>> Balance of head rigging installation consists of tieing off the fore stays that pass down through the bowsprit bees and jibboom sheeves (following foremast installation)
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
Additional mast assembly and outfit fittings. A list of special "Newsboy" rigging fittings typical of the mid 1800's is listed below:
 
Spar Setup
 
(1) Royal yard parrel assembly (special fabrication)
(1) Topgallant yard parrel assembly (special fabrication)
(1) Upper topsail yard parrel assembly (special fabrication)
(2) Upper topsail yard studding boom quarter iron (special fabrication)
(2) Upper topsail yard studding boom iron (special fabrication)
(2) Lower yard studding boom quarter iron (special fabrication)
(2) Lower yard studding boom iron (special fabrication)
(1) Lower topsail yard clevis assembly (Britannia casting)
(1) Lower topsail yard truss assembly (Britannia castings)
(1) Lower yard truss assembly (Britannia castings)
(1) Boom sheet assembly (special fabrication)
 
Mast Setup
 
(1) Main mast crane (special fabrication)
(1) Fore mast cap clevis assembly (special assembly)
(1) Fore mast clevis assembly (special fabrication)
(1) Iron stay assembly (lower topsail yard stay) (special fabrication)
 
This post completes mast fabrication and the fitting of mast ironwork. When construction resumes, mast sections will be assembled and outfitted with blocks and rigging lines per Rigging Setup Lists.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder