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gieb8688

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  1. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to AlexBaranov in HMS Cumberland 1774 by AlexBaranov - FINISHED - 1:36   
    Hello dear colleagues and friends.
    Many thank you for the appreciation of my work. However, I want to express my gratitude to the master who made showcase and lighting for the ship. His name is Denis.

  2. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to giampieroricci in L'Amarante 1749 by giampieroricci - FINISHED - 1:30 - French Corvette   
    I continued with the work on the bridge

     

     

     

     

     
     
     
    I fixed also the electrical system for the feeding of small leds

     

     

     

  3. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to giampieroricci in L'Amarante 1749 by giampieroricci - FINISHED - 1:30 - French Corvette   
    little progress. Nothing is fixed

     

     

     

  4. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to giampieroricci in L'Amarante 1749 by giampieroricci - FINISHED - 1:30 - French Corvette   
    a little progress:

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
  5. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to giampieroricci in L'Amarante 1749 by giampieroricci - FINISHED - 1:30 - French Corvette   
    I finished the final bonding of the beams

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  6. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to Livingstoneman in USS Constitution by Livingstoneman - Model Shipways   
    In the same year in Venezuela, my brother and I would go over our neighbors house which was like visiting Captain Nemo. An old Indonesian engineer who decorated his house with things of the sea. Diving bell suit, blow fish as lanterns, giant sea turtles shells on the wall. Etc. In his spare time he built large scale ships from scratch! He had done several and are now in museums in Caracus. Only one photo survives of him that I have...      

  7. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to RGL in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser   
    Finished on the back end rigging. The only rigging left will be on the davits. The ship will now go into the drydock for a while whilst I do up the armament, davits and torpedo net booms.
     
    There are a lot of guns and I will be doing up both the Artwox offering and the Komplet Zip ones (aftermarket) to see which comes up better.
     
    A bit of natural light on the old girl shows it up quite nicely.




  8. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to RGL in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser   
    Some photos of the real deal











  9. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line   
    Good morning Denis,
     
    Thank you very much for your appreciation,... it takes some time to get all those plates in the right positions and in alignment, whereby the rivet joints must be stagered in vertical direction. Am now downwards at hight of the bilge keels...
    the shaft housings and the tailcone are a bit tricky..
     
    Nils
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

  10. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line   
    Build log part 21
     
     
    Update : begin of metal-plating.....
     
    after determining the positions and hights of the horizontal belts with the dummy tapes, the metal plating can begin. I chose the technique with leaving a gap between first and third belt, and then mounting the second overlapping the other two in the riveting areas. The downward next shall be done likewise.....
    The rivets are ponced with modul 0,5 watchmakers toothwheel (single-row and tripple-row)
     
     
    Nils
     

     
    Unfortunately I do`nt have a close up pic of the KWdG riveting, but this is showing a close up of the "Imperator`s" plating
     
     

     
    single- and tripple row ponce toothwheels, modul 0,5
     
     

     
    larger plates around the stern...
     
     

     
    shows the gap between first and third belt
     
     

     
    for withstanding the high stresses in length direction, here the second belt`s edges bears riveting fields on top and bottom. The middle section of that belt will take the portholes afterwards
     
     

     
    the hull rails are not overplated
     
     

  11. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line   
    A little update on the plating job....
     
    the plates are are rubbed down on the wooden planking by meams of a soft erazor untill all the overlapping joints are thoroughly pressed down, so there will be no trapped air-boils underneath, The rubber debris from the erazor is then wiped away with a soft brush, before the next stripe goes on
     
    Nils
     

     
    The table guillotine is very handy for straight, clean cuts
     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

  12. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to mtaylor in Ship model kits which may or may not be based historical vessels   
    My favorite in this type of discussion is AL's Constellation.  Billed as the 1797 frigate.  It's not.  The hull is from the 1854 Sloop of War (and are reasonably accurate) and the deck plans, etc., come from the way she sat in the Baltimore harbor for years.  For more info, read "Fouled Anchors....." here's the PDF: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB0QFjAAahUKEwi6963K_ZzIAhVDrIAKHfi3CyI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dtic.mil%2Fcgi-bin%2FGetTRDoc%3FAD%3DADA241916&usg=AFQjCNF9BStwpyR2ty4lvLp4zvFc_tpyTA&bvm=bv.103627116,d.eXY
  13. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to AlexBaranov in HMS Cumberland 1774 by AlexBaranov - FINISHED - 1:36   
    For a ship determined permanent residence. Russia, Izhevsk. (In this city made Kalashnikov assault rifles).



  14. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to Dan Vadas in Decorative Yacht by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - RESTORATION   
    .... continued.
     
    I repainted the deck, fittings and cabin and painted a red stripe down the side to cover my repairs to the bulwarks and also to make it "sing" a bit more :
     

     

     

     
    And five minutes ( ) later I had it all re-rigged. It actually took me about a week, as I've had a bad back and couldn't spend more than a couple of hours a day on it :
     

     

     

     

     
    For my efforts I'm going to charge a bottle of a nice Single Malt Scotch - it sounds better than asking $80 for the work on a decorative model they bought in a garage sale for $5.00 .
     
    Note ; please don't follow any of the rigging I've done on this on your own model - nothing is "authentic", but it looks OK for what it is.
     
      Danny
  15. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to Dan Vadas in Decorative Yacht by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - RESTORATION   
    Hi all,
     
    My neighbour just handed me a Yacht that may or may not have been made somewhere in Asia, or could be Scratchbuilt, to do a Restoration on.
     
    It's not too bad for what it is - a couple of cracks in the hull (which makes me think Asian), the masts are loose, it's VERY dirty, and the rigging needs re-tying.
     
    It shouldn't take me more than a couple of days (where have I heard THAT before? )
     

     

     

     

     

     
     Danny
  16. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to Timmo in Cruizer-class brig by Timmo - FINISHED - 1:36 scale - RADIO   
    The deadwood was cut from ply and designed to interlock with and to square up the aft-most frames. Here you can also see the frame positions drawn on the building board as per the frame location lines on the plans and support blocks to help square up the frames.

     

    The deadwood was sanded down with a beard line to take account of the planking width to come and the keel had also been given a rabbet with a combination of files, dremel and table saw earlier.
     
    The wing transom looks simple but has both a camber across the top and laterally. This was cut from ply and sander in. A slot in the deadwood holds it in and the stern post will lock it into position later.


     
    The aftmost frame had slots for the stern supports cut in and the supports added. Like many brigs The cruizer had distinctive chase ports and the supports frame these on one side to help with positioning.


     
    The stern was cut from 2mm ply and bent to shape before being epoxied into place.


     
    Filler blocks of balsa have been added at the bow and stern and are being shaped as the frames are being sanded in preparation for planking. The stern post is visible in the foreground of the stern pic. It'll be installed when the planking is finished.


  17. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to Timmo in Cruizer-class brig by Timmo - FINISHED - 1:36 scale - RADIO   
    Current state of the build with more sanding to come.

  18. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to Timmo in Cruizer-class brig by Timmo - FINISHED - 1:36 scale - RADIO   
    After a month of work on my new project it's at the stage where I suspect it might turn into something worth continuing so here it is...
     

     

     
    A Cruizer class brig in 1:36 scale which is (hopefully) destined to be a working RC square rigged sailer.
    I've kicked this project off before finishing the rigging on my current Granado build after seeing a few build logs and being filled with inspiration and a reckless confidence to simply have a go. It's a good vessel to practice on as it's relatively simple with flush decks, only two masts and little decoration. I can experiment with the rc servos, ballast keel and sail operation once the hull and masts are done and if it works then move on to the nice to have items like head rails, carronades and deck fittings.
     
    The cruizer was a possibility for my next scratch build originally planned at 1/64 but I'd helped my father build the 1:20 scale Valdivia schooner kit from Robbe a few years back and being so taken with sailing it that I wanted one of my own.
    I'd love a 1:24 scale RC Surprise or cruizer from Steel Chapman and Hutchinson Ltd http://www.modelsailingships.com/ships/grasshopper.html
    But it's out of my price range once freight etc is taken into account, hence an effort to scratch build, especially after seeing the very informative logs from Jerry Todd for his Macedonian, Constitution and others.
     
    1:36 was chosen as it's large enough to look the part and have some sailing ability and be easily managed with a length of 84cm on the gun deck.
     
    If successful with the brig the ultimate goal is a frigate and at 1:36 scale a large vessel like an Artois class frigate of 146 feet on the gun deck would be just manageable for transport and launch at roughly 120cm. But that's pretty optimistic at this stage and I've got a lot to learn yet.
     
    The plans for this vessel are those included in EW Petrejus' fine book 'modelling the brig of war Irene' scaled up with bulkhead widths and deadwood for building purposes etc drawn in.
     

     
    Using relatively cheap materials was a must for this project as there's still an element of doubt over if it will work. If it doesn't I don't want to feel like it's been a huge investment that fails.
    As such the brig will be built from 9mm plywood for the framing with the keel and planking from matai - a New Zealand native timber which is moderately hard enough to hold detail at this scale while still easy to work and has a nice tone although the brig will be painted anyway.
    The matai is in the form of old tongue and groove floorboards from a demolition yard that are going for about $6/metre for short lengths that are pretty much unusable for anything else. I can mill these on my table saw and with a home built thickness sander.
     
    The hull will be built upside down on a building board for stability and will be cut loose once planked. A base line parallel to the keel a few cms above the max height of the sheer line was drawn on the plans to provide a point from which to measure from. All the bulkheads were drawn with this line as a top (or bottom once upside down on the board) square edge to ensure they would all sit at the correct height from the board and provide a level run for the keel to attach to.

     
    A test run of bulkheads on the board.

     
    To avoid installing deck beams later these were drawn onto the bulkheads using the camber indicated in Petrejus. The bulkheads were then cut down to ribbing size. In hindsight I should have left the bulwarks above deck ticker to account for the reduction from subsequent sanding but it's nothing major.

     
    Most of the framing on the build board here. The keel and stem is matai ripped on a bandsaw and run through my drill powere thickness sander (thanks to MSW member Snowmans for his fine instructions on making one) down to 9mm. The stem was then cut in one piece on the bandsaw and gammoning and bob stay holes/slots drilled.

  19. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to antanasp in 95mm boat by antanasp - FINISHED - Master Korabel - Scale 1:72 - SMALL - Russian fleet boat   
    After sanding prepared and glued inside seats and other elements. This is easy. Painted in black some other pieces. Result today.
     






















     
    Regards, Antanas
     
  20. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to antanasp in 95mm boat by antanasp - FINISHED - Master Korabel - Scale 1:72 - SMALL - Russian fleet boat   
    Bended and glued frames. They are from the pear strips. And begin planking the hull.
     
















     
    The second and third frame has a wrong shape... Or maybe I make some mistake. Between frame and the plank are the small gap. But this is not the big problem. Some amount of the glue repaired this. The next problem is the first plank lenght. The lenght is about 0,1 mm less then needed.
     



















     
    Regards,   Antanas
     
     
  21. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to EdT in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - 1:96 - POB - extreme clipper   
    Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
    Part 10 – Hull Fairing – Method 1  
     
    As seen in some of the previous photos, there is quite a bit of wood to be removed from the spacers used in this framing method.  It is much like working on a solid lift type hull, but the numerous bulkheads make it very easy to accurately duplicate the original shape by merely removing wood down the each of the bulkheads then finishing it off to a smooth fair surface.
     
    My natural response to this work was to use available carving tools to remove wood between bulkheads, followed by rasping and sanding.  This is a good method to use if you have the tools and the ability to keep then razor-sharp.  However, although I used this method on the starboard side, I wanted to offer a simpler process, using less expensive tools on the opposite side.  That second method will be described in the next part.
     
    The first picture shows shavings being pared off the hull using a shallow curved gouge with hand pressure.
     

     
    A solid anchoring of the hull is essential to allow two hands for this work.  The sharp gouge easily removes thin cross-grain shavings.  In the next picture a deeper gouge is being used with a mallet to chip off larger pieces of the extreme bevels near the stern.  Again, this requires the hull to be firmly secured.
     

     
    After paring with the gouges the shape was further smoothed out with fine-cut rasps.  The curved rasp in the next picture was used on the concave surfaces.
     

     
    A flat rasp was used on the convex hull surfaces as shown in the next picture.
     

     
    The rasps used here are fine-cut Iwasaki® carving rasps.  This is not a job for the coarse hardware-store variety.  You can pay almost anything for a rasp.  These are good quality and reasonably priced.  The last step on this side was done with 120-grit sandpaper on Softsander® pads – as shown in the next two pictures.
     

     
    The rasping and sanding bevel the plywood bulkheads as necessary to leave a smooth surface.  This involves trimming only the small side of the plywood shapes.  This point is indicated by feel as well as sight.
     

     
    The above picture shows the finished and unbeveled sides and gives an idea of the amounts of wood to be removed.
     
    This work went pretty fast, taking less than 2 hours for this side of the hull.  A second method will be shown on the port side in the next part.
     
    Ed
  22. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED   
    Hi Mark,
     
    2 comparisons with 64 and 74 guns.
     
    -Observe the similutude between the pilaster, on yours and on the 74.
     
    -Roughly, planking has 2 thickness.
     
    For the 64 guns, 1729, in orange is the thickess and  in purple is thinner.
    I would guess that 40 years later, although planking still has 2 thickness, they simplyfied the process.
     
    For the 74 ,  in black, for the wales only, planking is thicker and in yellow, thinner.



  23. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to shipmodel in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED   
    Mobbsie, Peter - 
     
    Yes, the decorative way the wale is fashioned in French ships is related to anchor stowage.  The French stiffened their longer, wider (compared to English designs) hulls by making their wales thicker and in several bands.  Between the bands the hull planking was thinner, creating a step up to the wale.  Where the anchor was hauled up for stowage the side point of the fluke could catch on it and rip up the wood.  So at the bow the thinner middle planking was exchanged for thicker stuff that created a smooth surface for the fluke to slide on.  Being French, where the thicker stuff ended, it was shaped in a stylish manner rather than just a functional end.
     
    Here are two photos of the element from the QAR project
    .


     
    Hope that helps
     
    Dan
  24. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to von stetina in Lightning by von stetina - 1/96 - extreme clipper   
    Hi guys,
     
    It's good to be back. I've finished the work that I need to bring in the bucks, now it's fun time.
     
    I'm doing the ratlines now. I'll never forget how to do a clove hitch, there are well over 1000 of them. As I began I found that my tweezers were opening too far at times and stretching the ratlines above and below. By limiting them with tape I solved this. I forget the dia. right now, but I think the thread is about .015.
     
    As I had finished this side I could finally put on the davits and hang the boats. The griping straps are of paper strengthened with acrylic gesso.
     
    I found that very few tools have been needed. I'll show the later. I've been up all night so i'll get back to you this evening.
     
    It's so good to be back, I've missed you all. I see Dan wrote. Hi buddy.
     
    Bruce



  25. Like
    gieb8688 reacted to von stetina in Lightning by von stetina - 1/96 - extreme clipper   
    As soon as the ratlines are done I will mount the davits and boats. Braces go over this area so I think it's time to put them on. Another thing to catch a finger on...
     
    I have no pictures yet but I'm doing the ratlines. I quickly learned to use tape wrapped around the tweezers to limit the amount they open. They would damage the work when they opened.
     
    For doing work shaping blocks I modified a set of tweezers. A lot of blocks are tiny at this scale. Some smaller than a grain of rice.  I'll try to remember to take a picture of them.
     
    All the photos for a bit. I've a brass Fairfield coal drag conveyor and a stock pen to build to bring some money in. It kills me to have to take time off from the Lightning. I'll keep an eye though to reply to anyone.
     
    Bruce


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