gieb8688

Ok it is finished. Here are the final photos.

First off I need to say thank you to all those who look in and click on the like button.  It’s so nice to log on to MSW and see that red signal that says someone likes what you said or did. Again thank you.
 
Now to get on with the boat.  The planking is almost done.  A little more clean-up in the stern and mount the transom and keel.  Also the planksheer so I can mount the stanchions and the bulwarks and then paint.  Wow, I shouldn’t list things like that it makes it sound like a lot of work.  Anyway here’s the pictures.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

The first part of the model I tore out and replaced were the Decks - the hull actually came after when I saw that I'd done TOO good a job on them . Here are a couple of pics from BEFORE :
 

 

 
The decks were ripped out using a flat chisel-point Xacto. I removed the whole quarterdeck as it was badly out of position :
 

 

 

 
Some pics of the decks after sanding smooth, filling and re-planking :
 

 

 

 
To be Continued in next Post

The hull after painting with Hammertone Copper. The particular paint I used didn't come out as a real hammertone, more like a very light ripple :
 

 

 
Wales and other strakes were made from new stock and re-fitted :
 

 

 
Some more particularly bad work around the Quarters. The kit instructions were to blame for a large part of this - no mention made of Fairing the frames at all   :
 

 

 
Wood Filler was used below the waterline. I laid new planking forward of the quarters themselves, and later fitted a roof over them (also not mentioned in the instructions).
 
To be Continued in next Post .....

I rebuilt and stepped the Masts - this took nearly a full day, as the holes on each deck and the bulkheads below them didn't come close to lining up :
 

 

 

 

 
I've also fitted about half the lower deadeyes and their chains - again, not historically accurate but that's what the kit supplied. The kit deadeyes aren't too bad actually - they are cast in Resin and the holes are better than most kits with wooden ones. The chains were already fitted to the deadeyes - I don't know if they came like this in the kit, but I suspect they did. It saved me a lot of work anyway :
 

 

 
The loose chains will tighten up when I fit the Shrouds. There are also a couple of Gunport Lids that will need re-fitting - I managed to loosen a few while fitting the Chains .... I'll fit ALL the Chains before doing this, as no doubt I'll disturb a couple more yet.
 
Continued in next Post .....

Thanks for the comments Bug, Craig, Daniel, Ollie, Grant, Craig and Blademaster .
 
 
Not really Ollie. I estimate about 45 hours so far.
 
I managed some more work on the model over the (looong - mine started on Wednesday ) Australia Day weekend.
 
The old guy had "built" the Masts, but they were so rough and out of shape that my easiest option was to scrap virtually everything and start over. I kept the Mast Tops, as I didn't have anything on hand to replace them with. I soaked them overnight in Acetone to soften the glue and paint, then cleaned them up.
 
Below are a couple of pics of the Tops and a Mast Coat from BEFORE :
 

 

 
And some pics AFTER :
 

 

 

 

 
I realize that the Tops are nowhere near accurate, but don't forget I'm attempting to build this model the way the old guy would have liked it to come out   .
 
Continued in next Post ......

The  rigging is finished, chainplates too. The finishing work still continues
 
Jan

So now that the lower rollers are all in place, I can turn my attention to the cross bracing at the bottom of the boom. Nothing really fancy. I've sent the cradle rollers off to be copied, so hopefully before then end of the month I should have them in hand, and along with my still MIA parts I should be able to get this unloading boom out of the way, and get on to the rest of the detail work about the ship.... oh yeah... and finish the hull.... enough of these dry-fit overall photos.
 
Andy
 
 

I graduated from the stern decoration. However, the Eagles did not put because had already broken. Sculptures of eagles really stick out beyond the outline of the stern ...

ready

The meeting continues, ladies and gentlemen of the jury.

Here's my latest pic of my SLOW progress. Being a full time dad, full time husband and full time employee, I don't have a lot of time for my hobbies! lol
 
 
Only 12 ribs to go!
 
I have not glued any of the ribs down as I am also researching where I'm going to be putting my controls. Per some good advice given on this great site, I'd like to be able to work on the keel without the ribs attached when placing things like the prop and the detachable ballast plate.
 

...

I finished the planking today and cut the boat off of the formers.








I started sanding the port side. I left the starboard side alone so that I could see the difference.


 
Marty, I am hoping that the glue does not screw up that stain. I really do not want to paint it.
I See no reason to use a plastic or cast metal ship's boat if you can build a boat to replace it.

Jon,
I also noticed the transom was short.  After I remade the keel, I noticed that I forgot to cut the notch for the transom, when I went to glue it. I thought about going back and cutting it, but decided that it would look better if the transom was a little higher, and it fit perfectly without it. If I had cut the notch the bottom of the boat would have been straight. The bottom of my boat is a little higher in the stern. I think it looks more realistic. Whether it is historically accurate, I do not know.

As for the shear meeting the stem, I just estimated based off of the drawing in the plans.
 
   

The image below shows the dry fit of the assembled jig. Once it’s glued into place, the real building of the ship’s boat will begin.

As I move to the gun deck (which is actually visible as the top main deck) everything added really has a big impact.  As I work to get the hatch coamings affixed I got one last look at a component that I was particularly proud of.  Once it was affixed most of the beauty was hidden but at least I have photographic evidence!
 

 
The following is the installed view  with and without the associated quarterdeck roof.
 

 
To permanently affix the deck beams I needed to add the waterways.  Given the flow of the hull, the waterway from the stern to close to the bow was affixed in one straight piece, slightly bent and glued into place.  For the profile, the same scraper was used as the berth deck.  For the bow, I used my favorite technique of using post-it notes to get the rough shape, followed by a piece of paper to refine, finally using the correct wood. 
 

 
When the port piece was cut out I was happy to find that by flipping it over it fit just fine in the starboard side.  I love it when these things like that happen.
 

 
Mark
 
Now on actually laying planks (as soon as the stairway coaming is put in).

I will skip over the ice storm, providing refuge to a family of 8, car issues, the holidays and such and actually do some modeling on the last day of 2013:  The object is the stove stack.
 
Into my stove I had cut a slot for an 1/4" brass tube which I procured locally.  Luckily I decided to just put everything in place with this oversized tube 'just to make sure.'  Well, it was very obvious the angle was significantly off:
 

 
Pondering this it all made sense.  The stove was sitting on a deck that had a slight pitch up towards the stem.  Looking at the plans the base of the stove was indeed angled to allow the stove / pots to sit level with the water line.  how many times have I looked at these and never seen that?  So I added the appropriate shim and brought the angle to rights:
 

 
With that taken care of I was able to use the deck beams to mark off the different levels.  These checked out with the plans (always a good thing) and I identified the height and angle required which I cut out with a very fine toothed straight saw:
 

 
After some silver soldering (got so excited I didn't take any pictures) the pipe was complete.  A good result for not so much work.  It still needs to be blackened but this will wait.  I really like the solid feel while still able to remove it out of the way for now.
 

 
This pipe now sits as Mr. Hahn constructed it.  I am still scratching my head if I will go ahead and construct the brass cover assembly.  Next job is the berth deck waterway so I can start planking that deck in.
 
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year,
mark

covered with oil:


 
after drying oil tinting:




 
Everything. And so it did:


 
Sincerely, Alexander
 
 
 
 
 
 

Build log part 5
 
 

for making the stand Posts I use brass candle holders (found on flee-markets)
 

the anchorchain port reinforcements are fitted
 

begin... rivited structure to deckhouses and hatch rims
 

further Fitting out
 

midship deckhouses, on deck inbetween the coal bunker hatchcovers
 

forecastle compartments
 

so far well under way...
 

workdecks ready for priming, painting
 

the figures are scale 1:100
 

the portside depth indications are in Roman figures
 
 
 
Build log part 6 to follow....

Building log part 3
 
 

brought on White primer coating and Sub waterline red
 

the last Picture where the hull is still fixed to the baseplate. The upper hull portions shall be plated and painted when the decks have been permanently mounted
 

hull seperated from baseplate, all went well, no Twist, no destortions
 

extreme lightweight hull, prop- and ruddershaft already mounted, superstructure for deck Support can be seen
 

riged structure in forecastle area
 
 

decks made from 1,5 mm thick 4-layer Aeroplywood
 

the Forward maindeck, 3 hatches, and the quite Long poopdeck, 2 hatches,(working decks) are going to be metal plated. These decks were of steel plating due to rough cargo handlingand overcoming heavy seas. The cardboard template behind hatch #4 Shows the riviting pattern for deck plating
 

hatch # 1 behind the forecastle bulkhead
 

bow section before finalizing the decks and the final plating
 
 

raw workdecks mounted, midship deckhouses started, hull painting done and forecastle bulleyes mounted. It`s now slowly looking like a ship should be...
 
 
 
 
Build log part 4 to follow.....

Bugra,
upon your request, here a short intercourse and self explaining use of the plate marking tool.
By the way, I use this method on all model hulls that are of rivited structure, only the tooth modul sizes differ acc. to the appr. scale Chosen. The holders for the toothwheels are made from old paintbrushes that would go to the bin otherwise.
 
Cheers
 
Nils
 
 

different wheel (toothsizes, and toothnumbers, also requires a semi soft rubber plate underneath and of course the precut plate
 

(turn around the plate, so the protection foil is up....
 

use a metal ruler, or like here a masons tool, leave plate edge free
 

the roller tool, use Dremel with circle sawblade to cut in the two circular grooves for obtaining 3 toothrows instead of one
 

press tight down the roller tool and move swiftly Forward in one move. Same time press down the ruler
 

looking at the marked edge from the rear side
 

looking at the result of the rivit resembling, (here 3-row riviting)
 

remove the protection foil, Keep the gluefilm side free from dust and debris
 
 
Happy exercising and good success
 
Nils

Build log part 2
 
 

planking completed, rudder and sternpost reinforcement mounted, minimized Polyesterfiller where necassary, and poopquarter knee-whale attached
 
 

impressions of rudder making components
 

the five blade prop is only an interim solution, a four blade historic prop with blades bolted-on the central hub is to follow later
 

here first time experience Begins with metal plating for hull
The hull wooden surface is sanded smooth and fixed with quick dying transperant liquid filler, which drys off quickly leaving a real smooth and shiny surface on which the self-adhesive Aluminium foil sticks like hell. No Problem with roll-embossing the foil plates from the rear plate side, because the rivit immitations are roolled-in before the protection foil on the plate rearside is removed, giving free the glue film.
 

Workstation for making the plates
 

leave a gap between first and second plating line, the third plating line is set by overlapping the edges of first and second line
Note : vertical rivit Joints have 4 rows of rivits, horizontal Joints have 2 rivit rows
 

plating nearly done, the whole hull is still mounted to the shipyard baseplate
Mounted into the keel are two reinforced M5 female threads for the later to be mounted stand-bolts
 

the upper hull portions have not been plated yet
 

soldered, full functional mounted rudder before plating, shaft going through to poop deck
 

here the upside down 135 cm Long hull is nearly ready for seperating from the baseplate, it is very stiff, riged and of lightweight

Hi everybody!
 
This is my first plank on frame bulkhead model and my first build log. The Virginia is rated as an easy ship to build but I decided to build the Virgina as I really like the way it looks. Here is my log:
 

 
Unboxing

Lots of bits and pieces. Very neatly packed.
 
False Keel and Frames

Cleaning up and test fitting the frames to the false keel.
 
Squaring up the Frames

Pinned the frames in place using the deck before gluing the frames in place. I deviated from the included plans here by not gluing the deck down to make planking easier.
 
Gluing the Frames

Frames have been glued to the false keel and are drying.
 
Fairing the Frame

Cleaning up the frame for planking.
 
Checking the Profile

Using a spare piece of wood to check the hull profile.
 
Fitting the Knightheads

The knightheads and cutwater knightheads have been fit and are being cleaned up to match the profile of the frames.
 
Weathering the Deck Planking

I used a charcoal pencil to darken one edge of each plank strip. Need 20 in all for the deck.
 
Cutting the Planks

I made a jig to make cutting the planks a little easier. Decided on 8cm long planks for the deck.
 
Preparing the Deck

Spreading contact glue on some planks and the deck.
 
Planking the Deck

Started at the back and worked forward once the glue was tacky.
 
Halfway there

I realized a little late that I should have planked up the center first and then work out to the edges. Hard to see in this picture but a couple of planks are slightly crooked and had to be sanded down and patched up.
 
Deck Planked

All planking has been applied to the deck and is drying.
 
Cleaned up Deck

Deck has been trimmed and sanded and is ready to be applied to the hull frame.
 
Deck Fitted to Frame

Deck has been glued to the hull frame and has been cleaned up where needed.
 
Deck Planking Detail

Closeup of the weathering and detail on the deck planking. I used a pencil to simulate nails.
 
 
Next up: lining the hull.

Hello, Following the bow
soon
Isalbert