minimini

the top riders 
 

 

 

 

 

Thanks everybody !!

 
Once hull and the standing rigg are completed, there are two major challenges left.
 
Sails and flags.
 
There may be some 500 or even more pulleys of different size and shape, but in the end this is a question of diligence. :-)
 
Sails and flags are a question of texture.
 
Most models are shown without sails because sail making is painstaking and often the final output doesn´t look like sails at all...
 
Even the thinnest tissue has the appearance of corrugated cardboard or worse. That rises the obvious question: is fabric tissue the ideal material?
 

It´s definetly not! But....
:-) Well, there are certain conventions in the honorable business of historic model ship building....
 
So I humbly took the thinnest fabric available and started with the gigantic Spanker.


 
As sail making is awfully time consuming, I had to overcome my concerns to bath the precious thing in ordinary potato starch before giving it a stiff breeze with the hot hairdryer...

.. witch resulted in swelled sails which concerve their form.
 
meanwhile the main course is ready for action. I replaced conventional seams with liquide fabric glue to avoide stiff multi layers of fabric.
 
But when it comes to flags, even the thinnest fabric doesn´t work. The texture of a flag is destinctively different from a sail.
In this case, I didn´t give a damn on conventions and looked for an unconventional alternative.
 
In the end thin copper foil proofed very effective. It was prime coated, using white enamel paint, was fixed on a sheet of paper and send through an ink-jet printer.
 

 
You just look for a beautiful "white ensign" in the net, download and print it on the copper foil, which is the ideal material to bend and twist it to a convincing "Flag". The wrinkles of the real flag (which are extremely difficult to achive) are simply printed on the plane surface and look quite realistic.

 
 
 
 

Again, my appreciation for the complimentary remarks you have posted on this model.
 
The footboards for the rowers are more complicated than one might think. They are moveable - for long and short-legged crew - and have battens that hold them in place. For six thwarts there are a total of 48 battens to be cut and fitted. There are no two pairs alike. No wonder this detail is omitted from nearly every model!
 
If you look carefully, you will see a rejected batten showing the joints that need to be cut at each end. It will be a while until all six sets are completed....

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Further news from the shipyard. First the side strakes of footwaling were installed (there is probably a proper term for them, but I don't know what it is). They required a twist through almost 90 degrees along their length, achieved by steaming.
 
Next were the risings. I misspelled the name as 'risers' earlier - sorry. The risings were cut after a card pattern established their shape and the pair were made while rubber cemented together, ensuring symmetry. The height of each below the gunwale was marked out at various points along the hull and the risings glued in. Note that paint was scraped off where the thwarts will attach.
 
Next will be the footboards for the rowing crew.

The breech rope was made using a technique I saw on an actual contemporary model.  The splice for the button of the Carronade was simulated.
 
As mentioned I am using Syren .035 light brown rope.  All of my .035 size rope is four strands.   I dont think it would look as nice otherwise.  Four stranded rope just make it work nicely.   But essentially,  the entire breech rope is made to length....3" long.   (addendum) After consideration I think the breech line should be no longer than 3".  It looks a bit long in the photo. The eyebolts and rings were slipped on before the end was finished off.  You can see that in the photos.   The eyebolts were 28 gauge wire while the split rings were 24 gauge.
 

 
Then I used a sharp but wide awl to simulate the splice. It has to be large enough that the splice will fit over the button of the carronade or cannon.  In the center of the breech rope I pushed the awl through so there were two strands on top and bottom.  Hence the need for four stranded rope. Then I applied some watered down white glue and let it dry.  Once dry the simulated splice stayed to shape.
 
I have seen many real splices attempted and they just look to big and out of scale.  I couldnt pull that off convincingly. Even though this is a cheat, I think it looks better because it stays smaller.
 

 
 
I could have just gone with the usual wrapping once around the button of the carronade...but that is tough to do in my opinion.  It wont stay in place and you must use glue so it wont come undone.  This ends up pulling the finish off the barrel etc.  In the end it just looks too sloppy for me.  So I gave this a try.  No glue is needed at all.  It slips right on the button and wont come off.  This allows you more control to set the other eyes into the brackets of the carriage and then place the whole thing on deck.
 

 
Hope that makes sense.   I also stiffened the line with the watered down white glue before starting.  Let it dry.  I just find it easier to work with when its a bit stiffer.  At least with the breech rope anyway.  I started with about a 5" long piece of rope.
 
Chuck

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

The mast bowsprit and the rigging has now been completed, with the ropes, buckets, barrels,boat hooks,and oars added, only the barrels were bought the rest made,I will cover that on the next boat in the group,I also made a simple stand out of ply,so the 26ft launch is finished,one down three to go.
Mast


Stand

Rigging started


Inboard views




Finished boat





 
 
 
 

Hi Mark
beautiful work on the rudder
 
Michael

Hi Mark
beautiful work on the rudder
 
Michael

after the glue on the false keel was dry it was time to fit the rabbet strips   and complete the stempost   and when I was done with that I  decided to assemble the bow fillers how they looked before they were assembled   and after    and finally how they will look when they are put on the keel   Michael      

now I think is time for a little up date on this model, I decided to throw the old model out and start over again why ? because I made too many mistakes as I made the first drawings, so instead of to constantly correct errors on the error on the old model I decided to start over.
I've created a set of new drawings and finish cutting the new parts
 

 

 

 

 
the last image is of the false keel of a Danish 74 scale 1:48 the small model is a Danish gunboat also in 1:48
 

 
Regardes
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Albert
that really nice work
 
Michael

Hi Mark
beautiful work on the rudder
 
Michael

Hi Albert
that really nice work
 
Michael

Hi Albert
that really nice work
 
Michael

Hi Mark
beautiful work on the rudder
 
Michael

Hi Mark
beautiful work on the rudder
 
Michael

Hi Mark
beautiful work on the rudder
 
Michael

Hi Mark
beautiful work on the rudder
 
Michael

The "likes", comments, and questions/challenges appreciated..... 
 
So... pushing the envelope...
 
I've reworked the rudder and added some metalwork.  It looks a lot better.    The metal banding will have the appropriate amount of nails in it before this piece is ready to mount.
 
Edit:  I forgot to add... I cut it apart using a thin jeweler's saw and then glued it back together using some colored glue.
 

 
And a couple of quick shots of the rudder irons/straps in work.  I started by annealing the straps.  I silver solder the tube, cut-off the excess, and clean it up with a file.  For the pintle, a 1/16" brass rod will be epoxied into the tube.  The cudgeon will not have the shaft, naturally.  
 

I should note that these are not cleaned up yet.  

 
So far, so good.  I've got a pile of brass pieces now pickling in some vinegar.   I'll rinse well and let dry overnight.  I'm thinking of using paint on these or hitting the local gunshop tomorrow for some Birchwood Casey's.  In testing, Blacken-It did nothing for the silver solder.  I've got some discards painted and drying and I'll how they look.  

Hi All
just a small update the build board is ready

and I decided to dry fit all the bulkheads



 
and finally the first 4 build board ar glued on.


 
Michael

while waiting for the glue to dry I decided to do the fairing on bulkheads L , M And N the 3 foremost bulkheads  before I glue them on

 
Michael

Hi All
just a small update the build board is ready

and I decided to dry fit all the bulkheads



 
and finally the first 4 build board ar glued on.


 
Michael

finished with the first two layers of paint on the starboard wall
 

 

 

 
Michael