wefalck
-
Posts
6,360 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
wefalck got a reaction from mikiek in Buying Filler Blocks
Up to you and what materisl you have to hand …
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Looking for ideas for work area
I suppose the configuration depends on what kind/size of projects you envisage to work. The island configuration may be useful for projects that are too big to shift easily around a work-desk or similar. Otherwise, like in a kitchen, it takes up a lot of floor-space. Check out the dimensional recommendation of the kitchen guys. You typically need 80 cm between working surfaces, so the size of island plus 80 cm around it on all sides. Normal work-benches/kitchen-tops are 60 cm deep, while shelves need 30 cm to 40 cm.
My ideal solution would be to have 60 cm work-tops running all along the walls with 40 cm hanging cupboards to the ceiling above. The space in between would be used for hanging tools that have to handy. The space under the work-top I would subdivide into workstations, separated by chests with drawers. However, I am working seated on small projects and all my small machines.
It's nice to sit in front of a window and ok for working on small parts, draughting etc., but it is not so good to have a large model between yourself and the window, as you would be working on the 'dark side' of the model. If you are mainly working with artificial light, this doesn't matter, of course.
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Vallejo plastic putty for wood models
Just out of curiosity: are you talking about the Vallejo acrylic putty sold in bottles like their paint?
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Wood deck on steam tug
The purpose of 'joggling' of planks is to facilitate caulking: the point would be difficult to caulk, because it is likely to break off, when you drive in the cotton with the caulking iron.
However, no 'real' caulking would be needed on wooden decks laid over steel-decks. I would be sufficient to fill the seams with pitch/marine-glue. The wooden decks are a sort of sacrificial protection of the steel-decks, make them less slippery, provide thermal and acoustic isolation for the spaces underneath.
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Buying Filler Blocks
Up to you and what materisl you have to hand …
-
wefalck got a reaction from king derelict in Jupiter Locomotive by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:32
Are you sure that this is a steam-dome, that thing before the cab? To me it rather looks like the 'coffee-pot' housing for a double set of spring-loaded safety-valves that is seen on early locomotives (perhaps before the 1880s). this 'coffee-put' should be open on the top to let excess steam escape upwards.
The thingy on its top looks very much like a steam-bell, rather than a whistle.
Some early locomotives didn't actually have steam-domes, but the steam was taken from a high area of the boiler, which is why the boiler has a wider diameter near the cab - not a terribly good solution, as water might get into the steam-pipes on an incline.
It is interesting to see that the sandbox sits, where on more modern locomotives the steam-dome would be located, i.e. in the middle of the boiler, where the water level would change very much, regardless whether you were going downhill or uphill.
On the other hand, I have zero knowledge of US American steam locomotive practices ...
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Jupiter Locomotive by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:32
Are you sure that this is a steam-dome, that thing before the cab? To me it rather looks like the 'coffee-pot' housing for a double set of spring-loaded safety-valves that is seen on early locomotives (perhaps before the 1880s). this 'coffee-put' should be open on the top to let excess steam escape upwards.
The thingy on its top looks very much like a steam-bell, rather than a whistle.
Some early locomotives didn't actually have steam-domes, but the steam was taken from a high area of the boiler, which is why the boiler has a wider diameter near the cab - not a terribly good solution, as water might get into the steam-pipes on an incline.
It is interesting to see that the sandbox sits, where on more modern locomotives the steam-dome would be located, i.e. in the middle of the boiler, where the water level would change very much, regardless whether you were going downhill or uphill.
On the other hand, I have zero knowledge of US American steam locomotive practices ...
-
wefalck reacted to TJM in HDMS Elben 1831 by TJM - scale 1:64 - PoB - first scratch build
Ah, those will be covered by a raised deck right in front of the wheel. It will hide the rudder cables etc.
You can see the construction on these plans:
I just haven't gotten around to making that part yet 😁.
So those exposed mdf pieces are there for a structural purpose on my build and does not reflect how the original would have been made!
-
wefalck got a reaction from Canute in Jupiter Locomotive by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:32
Are you sure that this is a steam-dome, that thing before the cab? To me it rather looks like the 'coffee-pot' housing for a double set of spring-loaded safety-valves that is seen on early locomotives (perhaps before the 1880s). this 'coffee-put' should be open on the top to let excess steam escape upwards.
The thingy on its top looks very much like a steam-bell, rather than a whistle.
Some early locomotives didn't actually have steam-domes, but the steam was taken from a high area of the boiler, which is why the boiler has a wider diameter near the cab - not a terribly good solution, as water might get into the steam-pipes on an incline.
It is interesting to see that the sandbox sits, where on more modern locomotives the steam-dome would be located, i.e. in the middle of the boiler, where the water level would change very much, regardless whether you were going downhill or uphill.
On the other hand, I have zero knowledge of US American steam locomotive practices ...
-
wefalck got a reaction from thibaultron in Jupiter Locomotive by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:32
Are you sure that this is a steam-dome, that thing before the cab? To me it rather looks like the 'coffee-pot' housing for a double set of spring-loaded safety-valves that is seen on early locomotives (perhaps before the 1880s). this 'coffee-put' should be open on the top to let excess steam escape upwards.
The thingy on its top looks very much like a steam-bell, rather than a whistle.
Some early locomotives didn't actually have steam-domes, but the steam was taken from a high area of the boiler, which is why the boiler has a wider diameter near the cab - not a terribly good solution, as water might get into the steam-pipes on an incline.
It is interesting to see that the sandbox sits, where on more modern locomotives the steam-dome would be located, i.e. in the middle of the boiler, where the water level would change very much, regardless whether you were going downhill or uphill.
On the other hand, I have zero knowledge of US American steam locomotive practices ...
-
wefalck got a reaction from Old Collingwood in Jupiter Locomotive by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:32
Are you sure that this is a steam-dome, that thing before the cab? To me it rather looks like the 'coffee-pot' housing for a double set of spring-loaded safety-valves that is seen on early locomotives (perhaps before the 1880s). this 'coffee-put' should be open on the top to let excess steam escape upwards.
The thingy on its top looks very much like a steam-bell, rather than a whistle.
Some early locomotives didn't actually have steam-domes, but the steam was taken from a high area of the boiler, which is why the boiler has a wider diameter near the cab - not a terribly good solution, as water might get into the steam-pipes on an incline.
It is interesting to see that the sandbox sits, where on more modern locomotives the steam-dome would be located, i.e. in the middle of the boiler, where the water level would change very much, regardless whether you were going downhill or uphill.
On the other hand, I have zero knowledge of US American steam locomotive practices ...
-
wefalck got a reaction from Jack12477 in Jupiter Locomotive by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:32
Are you sure that this is a steam-dome, that thing before the cab? To me it rather looks like the 'coffee-pot' housing for a double set of spring-loaded safety-valves that is seen on early locomotives (perhaps before the 1880s). this 'coffee-put' should be open on the top to let excess steam escape upwards.
The thingy on its top looks very much like a steam-bell, rather than a whistle.
Some early locomotives didn't actually have steam-domes, but the steam was taken from a high area of the boiler, which is why the boiler has a wider diameter near the cab - not a terribly good solution, as water might get into the steam-pipes on an incline.
It is interesting to see that the sandbox sits, where on more modern locomotives the steam-dome would be located, i.e. in the middle of the boiler, where the water level would change very much, regardless whether you were going downhill or uphill.
On the other hand, I have zero knowledge of US American steam locomotive practices ...
-
-
wefalck got a reaction from davyboy in Buying Filler Blocks
Up to you and what materisl you have to hand …
-
wefalck reacted to Lecrenb in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
The deckhouse is getting close now...
The bay window is installed...
The wheelhouse roof frame is installed...
Here is the roof roughed in to check the fit...
While paint and glue were drying I made the rest of the fiddly bits for the poop...
Once the goosenecks and ring bolts are installed there will be some paint touch up on the hull, then finally the deckhouse gets installed!
I am thinking good thoughts about installing the ship on the display base at that point... but I may wait...
The rudder and quadrant mechanisms can go on any time, and the structures behind the deckhouse can be built.
After that the lifeboat platforms and davits can be built, the spare rudder and steering cables installed, and the masts stepped!
Woot! Love it when a plan comes together!
Thanks for checking in!
Bruce
-
wefalck reacted to Greg Davis in Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - FINISHED - Scale 1:16
First propeller mock-up. This has some resemblance to the real one, but I think I'll probably need one or two more tries to really hit the shape. I think the blades need to be lengthened just a little bit ...
-
wefalck reacted to Greg Davis in Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - FINISHED - Scale 1:16
Finally a set of radiators have been fabricated! I'll paint the top and bottom caps aluminum before installing, but the metalwork is done including drilling holes for inlet (top fore) and outlet (rear aft) plumbing.
Glad this is done-ish - onto another challenge: the propeller.
-
wefalck reacted to Keith Black in Lula by Keith Black - FINISHED - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
Thank you to each of you for your comments and likes.
Meet William R. Waterman, Lula's new captain/pilot. He was born in Hudson, New York in 1826. I had interviewed with a couple of men before William's interview but something didn't seem right about the way they stood behind the wheel. But Captain Bill is a natural, seems to know a lot about New York Harbor and has captained sternwheelers on the Missouri and Ohio so I hired him on the spot!. But something kept nagging me about Captain Bill's name, it sounded familiar and when I questioned him about it he said he had a famous uncle but didn't or wouldn't go into details? Captain Bill said he would see to the crewing of Lula, so be it. I'm sure they'll come drifting in one by one over the next couple of weeks.
The figure for Captain Bill was one of the Holden late 19th century British naval figures with gaiters requiring me to carve away most of the uniform. It's very hard to see any remaining uniform at normal viewing distance.
I'm not just messing about with figures, I'm also building the pilothouse walls. I've almost got the stern wall done and moving next to the fore wall.
Thank you again for your support and for being part of the journey.
Keith
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Ancient Mediterranean Ships, Il Trabaccolo
Yep, have all three, but not the 'Kleber'.
The Museo Storico Navale in Venice has a rich collection of
Boat models: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/venezia/museonavalevenezia-2.html
and real boats: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/venezia/museonavalevenezia-3.html
from the Venetian lagoon and surrounding waters.
-
wefalck got a reaction from mtaylor in Ancient Mediterranean Ships, Il Trabaccolo
The second link points to the Web-site of Gilberto Penzo, perhaps the authority on Venetian boats (and a nice guy), where you can buy his drawings and books. A few years ago he published a comprehensive book on the trabaccolo:
PENZO, G. (2020): Il Trabaccolo.- 230 p., Sottomarina (Ve) (Il Leggio Libreria Editrice).
-
wefalck got a reaction from catopower in Buying Filler Blocks
... and the wood should not be much softer than the bulkheads, otherwise there is a tendency to sand hollows into the fillers, which defeats the object. On the other hand, one can always build up the surface again or apply wood-filler putty.
-
wefalck got a reaction from Canute in Lula by Keith Black - FINISHED - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
Makes sense! Thinking about it, it would be also more stable during pushing, as there is less of a cantilever on the rig, than if it was pushed the other way around. I also didn't realise that there was a 'bow' end.
-
wefalck got a reaction from Canute in Lula by Keith Black - FINISHED - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
Would the pile-driver actually pushed from the side of the rig? I would have expected the tug to be tied up to the other side, also so that the driver can be manoeuvred into position.
-
wefalck got a reaction from FriedClams in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
I love making such mechanical things. Here my take in 1:60 scale, done some 30 years ago:
-
wefalck got a reaction from Desertanimal in Looking for ideas for work area
I suppose the configuration depends on what kind/size of projects you envisage to work. The island configuration may be useful for projects that are too big to shift easily around a work-desk or similar. Otherwise, like in a kitchen, it takes up a lot of floor-space. Check out the dimensional recommendation of the kitchen guys. You typically need 80 cm between working surfaces, so the size of island plus 80 cm around it on all sides. Normal work-benches/kitchen-tops are 60 cm deep, while shelves need 30 cm to 40 cm.
My ideal solution would be to have 60 cm work-tops running all along the walls with 40 cm hanging cupboards to the ceiling above. The space in between would be used for hanging tools that have to handy. The space under the work-top I would subdivide into workstations, separated by chests with drawers. However, I am working seated on small projects and all my small machines.
It's nice to sit in front of a window and ok for working on small parts, draughting etc., but it is not so good to have a large model between yourself and the window, as you would be working on the 'dark side' of the model. If you are mainly working with artificial light, this doesn't matter, of course.
Our Emblem ®
