wefalck

I was about to suggest to use a home-made scraper with a half-round profile, made from a piece of razor-blade to shape the shafts of the oars. You can cut the profile into an ordinary razor-blade with a diamond burr. Brake off the piece with pliers. This scraper can be held in a pin-vice that is slotted cross-wise. I have used such purpose-made scrapers for shaping very small profiles etc.

I was about to suggest to use a home-made scraper with a half-round profile, made from a piece of razor-blade to shape the shafts of the oars. You can cut the profile into an ordinary razor-blade with a diamond burr. Brake off the piece with pliers. This scraper can be held in a pin-vice that is slotted cross-wise. I have used such purpose-made scrapers for shaping very small profiles etc.

As a matter of fact the transition between varnish, sanding sealer and primer are rather flowing. 
 
A primer is a material that interacts physico-chemically or chemically with the surface to which it is applied and thus adheres well to it. In turn, the paint interacts with the primer and therefore adheres well to it. With the exception of certain oily wood species, there is normally no need to prime wood for painting.
 
A sanding sealer essentially is a kind of varnish in which finely ground particles, often pumice powder are suspended. The idea is that the varnish penetrates into the wood and the particles fill up any surface structure and pores of the wood. There are many commercial formulation of sanding sealers available. While they were originally based on solvents, today acrylics based formulations with water as solvent are more and more sold for environmental protection reasons, though they do not penetrate so well, particularly into more resinous wood species. Sanding sealer is applied after a first sanding that has been rubbed down wet to raise the wood fibres. It is then sanded down in preparation for further steps. Sometimes a second application is needed. Rather than sanding, I prefer to either scrape (flat surfaces) or rub down with steel-wool (curved surfaces).
 
A dye or stain is a coloured organic molecule dissolved in water, alcohol or an organic solvent. This means a dye can only applied to material that is capable to soak up the solvent you are using. It implies that you have to apply any dye or stain after a first sanding, but before applying sanding sealer.
 
An ink, conversely, is a liquid, usually water or alcohl, in which finely ground solid particles (e.g. soot) or coloured organic partciles are suspended. The ink also contains a binder, that may be either water soluble or not - in the latter case it is referred to as permanent ink.
 
A varnish is a lacquer dissolved in an appropriate solvent. A classical example is shellac, which is dissolved in alcohol, which gives it a good penetration into wood. Other lacquers and solvents may be used in commercial formulations, such as acrylic or polyurethane varnishes. The varnish would be applied to the surfaces prepared with a sanding sealer. One has to pay attention that the solvent of the varnish does not attach the sealer, otherwise you may destroy the effect of sanding.
 
A paint essentially is a varnish that has a pigment added to it. Again, paint is applied on top of the sanding sealer and the same provisa as for the plain varnish applies, i.e. sealer and paint have to be compatible. In general, water-based acrylics are compatible with almost anything, as water is not a very agressive solvent. 

Indeed, jewellers' drawplates are not suitable for reducing wood in size. I think we had this discussion already in some thread here.
 
The anatomy of an oar depends on it's use and the period. Sea-oars are rather different from the oars that are used on inland waterways. Basically, sea-oars are symmetrical, so that one can use them forward and backward. Also the diameter is round for much of the length. Likewise, the blade is quite narrow.
 
The diameter is, of course, proportionate to the length. The length depends on the breadth of the boat and whether it is single- or double-banked. For single-banked boats the length would be about three- to four-times the breadth.
 
In 1/128 scale I think it would be not so easy to make the blade and the shaft in two pieces. You would need to slot the shaft for the blade and this could be a challenge for a shaft only somewhere, say, 0.6 to 0.8 mm in diameter. I would start from a flat piece of wood (or styrene), layout the shape, cut out the shape, and then shape the shaft and blade by scraping and sanding.
 
My 1/160 scale oars where made from layer of paper blanks cut out with the laser-cutter and laminated together using varnish. They were further shaped using diamond files.

The model has a flat bottom, I don't use strips but thin plywood panels that I recovered ......

Indeed, jewellers' drawplates are not suitable for reducing wood in size. I think we had this discussion already in some thread here.
 
The anatomy of an oar depends on it's use and the period. Sea-oars are rather different from the oars that are used on inland waterways. Basically, sea-oars are symmetrical, so that one can use them forward and backward. Also the diameter is round for much of the length. Likewise, the blade is quite narrow.
 
The diameter is, of course, proportionate to the length. The length depends on the breadth of the boat and whether it is single- or double-banked. For single-banked boats the length would be about three- to four-times the breadth.
 
In 1/128 scale I think it would be not so easy to make the blade and the shaft in two pieces. You would need to slot the shaft for the blade and this could be a challenge for a shaft only somewhere, say, 0.6 to 0.8 mm in diameter. I would start from a flat piece of wood (or styrene), layout the shape, cut out the shape, and then shape the shaft and blade by scraping and sanding.
 
My 1/160 scale oars where made from layer of paper blanks cut out with the laser-cutter and laminated together using varnish. They were further shaped using diamond files.

Nice progress indeed !
 
Just wondering: where the pilot-houses open to the rear?

Indeed, jewellers' drawplates are not suitable for reducing wood in size. I think we had this discussion already in some thread here.
 
The anatomy of an oar depends on it's use and the period. Sea-oars are rather different from the oars that are used on inland waterways. Basically, sea-oars are symmetrical, so that one can use them forward and backward. Also the diameter is round for much of the length. Likewise, the blade is quite narrow.
 
The diameter is, of course, proportionate to the length. The length depends on the breadth of the boat and whether it is single- or double-banked. For single-banked boats the length would be about three- to four-times the breadth.
 
In 1/128 scale I think it would be not so easy to make the blade and the shaft in two pieces. You would need to slot the shaft for the blade and this could be a challenge for a shaft only somewhere, say, 0.6 to 0.8 mm in diameter. I would start from a flat piece of wood (or styrene), layout the shape, cut out the shape, and then shape the shaft and blade by scraping and sanding.
 
My 1/160 scale oars where made from layer of paper blanks cut out with the laser-cutter and laminated together using varnish. They were further shaped using diamond files.

Hello All,  
Thanks for the likes.  I have a little progress on this model. 
I have gotten a lot of the windows done but it looks as if I may have to make a few more.
The 'winch' house and pilot house are joined up with the pilot house on top.  I had to pack out the walls somewhat to at least have the appearance that the windows can slide down into pockets. 
The top of the main deck house, engine house and pilot house roofs need to be enclosed with railings and I wanted to try to improve on my last soldered together railings by using stanchions and wire rails.  So far, my homemade stanchions have been pretty dismal.  I have ordered some etched brass in 1/ 192 scale.  We'll see how they look.
While waiting for the stanchions I made some more furniture for the pilot house roof and started on the drawing for the engine house.
When the engine house is ready, I will paint all the 'houses'.  I found some Floquil paint for it.  They are in primer now.
 
Thanks,  mcb
 

A seldom seen subject here. As I have a soft spot for those boats from the Venice lagoon and I will follow the progress. That book has been sitting on my shelf also for some time now - I think I bought in the bookshop 'Carta di Mare' in Venice or from Gilberto Penzo.
 
The 'Padiglione delle Barche' of the Museo Storico Navale in Venice preserve a couple of Bragozzi from the late 19th/early 20th century: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/venezia/museonavalevenezia-3.html. I took a few pictures in case one day I also want to build one.
 
 
 
 
 

Absolutely. Here my personal selection: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/madrid/madrid.html
 
The building inside is also congenial.

Absolutely. Here my personal selection: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/madrid/madrid.html
 
The building inside is also congenial.

Absolutely. Here my personal selection: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/madrid/madrid.html
 
The building inside is also congenial.

Yep, oils are good for leather. Not sure whether I read this or whether I just tried, when I was into 1/35 military figures in the mid to late 1970s. I gather the Humbrol paints didn't give the right shine and I was look for something more leather-like.
 

I gather the postman was well-paid for this 🤑 ... shipping cost from everywhere have exploded - except the for the Chinese, who are state-subsidised.

Absolutely. Here my personal selection: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/madrid/madrid.html
 
The building inside is also congenial.

That  would have been a job for my shop-built filing machine ...
 
I like the strategy for arriving at a solid round boss. Instinctively, I would have tried to silver-solder the boss on, but the large brass-piece might have drawn too much heat.

That  would have been a job for my shop-built filing machine ...
 
I like the strategy for arriving at a solid round boss. Instinctively, I would have tried to silver-solder the boss on, but the large brass-piece might have drawn too much heat.

Yep, oils are good for leather. Not sure whether I read this or whether I just tried, when I was into 1/35 military figures in the mid to late 1970s. I gather the Humbrol paints didn't give the right shine and I was look for something more leather-like.
 

Thank the zealous law-makers, the custom-officials are only executors - today no one uses common sense and judgement anymore in case some greedy lawyer finds a way to sue them.
 
BTW in earlier post I erroneously wrote the German Ivory Museum is in Michelstadt, it is in Erbach, another town nearby: https://elfenbeinmuseum.de/.

Thanks for the very interesting link. I've bookmarked it. In the spring there are plans to go to Nuremberg to visit friends. It would be a lie to say that we’ll make a detour along the way and stop at the museum. This trip is hard for me. And I know for sure that during my trip to Nuremberg, if I even suggest making a stop, my family will not understand me. And they will rightly say that even if they agree, I will be the first to break. And you can only carry me around the museum. Or drag it. I don't mind, but other people definitely won't understand.
But after Nuremberg it will be possible to check how much such a trip will cost me and make plans.
There is a maritime museum in Hamburg. And he's just great. 9 floors! And everything is in the ships! This is a fairytale. I was even able to convince my family to go there twice. For the first time we went specifically to this museum. And after the long journey it was enough for me to get to half of the museum. And I begged for two years to go there again. And already from the second time I was able to examine it completely. It was a good trip. Highly recommend. And if you go with your family, I can add advertising for them too. You can say that after the museum you will take your family to a musical. There are different performances, but the best is The Lion King. Believe me, not only will your children be delighted, but you will have a great time too.
Well, I made an advertisement for the Hamburg Maritime Museum. I'll go ask them for a free ticket for advertising.

Thank the zealous law-makers, the custom-officials are only executors - today no one uses common sense and judgement anymore in case some greedy lawyer finds a way to sue them.
 
BTW in earlier post I erroneously wrote the German Ivory Museum is in Michelstadt, it is in Erbach, another town nearby: https://elfenbeinmuseum.de/.

A little more progress on the rudder frame.
 
Thank you Rick / Richard -
 
Exactly so Richard.
 
I am still using paper templates to get the shapes right.

The wedge angles produce a little distortion in the templates but nothing worth worrying about.
 
I cut the bulk of the excess metal away with straight cuts using my hacksaw. I then clamped the frame to a piece of wood for a bit of milling.

I nibbled my way towards the desired profile using an end mill cutting vertically.

I then blended the frame to shape with various files. I also drilled holes (upper and lower) to take the rudder shaft. 

The frame around the upper rudder bearing is round and not square as currently formed.
So I needed to form the 4mm diameter round boss. I did this by first slotting out the end of a piece of 4mm diameter rod.

This was then placed over square section nib and soldered in place.


The excess was then cut away and the boss was cleaned up with a file.

Finally a paper template was used again prior to cutting away the waste.

The frame was then test fitted into the pre made slot in the hull. 

Although not fixed in position I checked the alignment with a laser level.

The frame isn't finished as it needs a fair bit of polishing with wet and dry paper before finishing on the polishing wheel.
 
Next the rudder.
 
 
 
 

Yep, oils are good for leather. Not sure whether I read this or whether I just tried, when I was into 1/35 military figures in the mid to late 1970s. I gather the Humbrol paints didn't give the right shine and I was look for something more leather-like.
 

Yep, oils are good for leather. Not sure whether I read this or whether I just tried, when I was into 1/35 military figures in the mid to late 1970s. I gather the Humbrol paints didn't give the right shine and I was look for something more leather-like.